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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/08/14 in all areas

  1. I suspect you a probably all bored to death with Blackbirds but I thought I should close out the commission properly with a summary of the builds and their differences. I promise no more Blackbirds for the foreseeable future. Once again, thankyou to everyone who help along the way. A-12, this is where it all began, single seat, NMF in the beginning with them all finally being painted the normal Black we all know. Kiwi Resin conversion for the nose and tail, additional Q-BAY windows, some Eduard Etch and all painted in Tamiya Acrylics. A-12 Titanium Goose, this is the training version of the A-12 with a second raised canopy for the trainer. Kiwi Resin A-12 conversion for the nose and tail, scratch built second cockpit as it is vastly different than the SR-71B in shape and size, some Eduard Etch and all painted in Tamiya Acrylics. YF-12A, OOB with a specific finish referenced from some images of the early airframe, just the addition of some Eduard Etch and all painted in Tamiya Acrylics. M-21, this is in fact a normal A-12 with a second cockpit installed in the Q-Bay, primary function was to be the carrier vessel for the GTD-21B Drone. All of the 1/72 kits have been modelled with the Drone carried on the SR-71 which is not correct. The SR-71 never carried the Drone so the standard kit was modified again with the Kiwi Resin A-12 Conversion, finished with the some Eduard Etch and painted in Tamiya Acrylics. SR-71A, built OOB with the exception of some Eduard Etch, painted in Tamiya Acrylics SR-71B, built OOB with the exception of some Eduard Etch, painted in Tamiya Acrylics SR-71C, this is a really interesting airframe is it is made up of the front section of a functional mock up of the SR-71 and the rear section of a crashed YF-12A. Aircraft was built to replace a crashed SR-71B, note the short tail and the raised second tandem canopy. The aircraft was known as the bast**d" because it required constant trim adjustments to keep her flying straight. As per the others she is finished with some additional Eduard Etch and painted with Tamiya Acrylics. YF-12C, this is essential a demilitarised SR-71, it was given the YF-12C designation to hide its true identity, I believe that the Air force did not want anyone to know that NASA had one of their Blackbirds. The airframe served as a test bed for various NASA projects. As per the others she is finished with some additional Eduard Etch and painted with Tamiya Acrylics. SR-71 Big Tail, this is a normal SR-71 that was refitted with an extended tail for additional surveillance equipment. I had some fun trying to get the correct length for the tail, finally resolved when I got a copy of an old Wings Magazine article on the airframe. Naturally the tail is scratch built, quite a challenge as no part of it stays a constant size and I only had some images to work from. As per the others she is finished with some additional Eduard Etch and painted with Tamiya Acrylics. Thanks for looking. Danny
    16 points
  2. Howdy everyone, Seeing as I`ve painted myself into a corner, yet again, I hope you don`t mind me posting some pic`s of probably the oldest build surviving in my collection, but one I stripped down and refurbished a while back. My attempt at the Revell/Monogram 1/48 Pro Modeller Helldiver, which I built but was never happy with and which languished in the loft insulation... until I felt inspired enough to have another go.( and was too tight to buy a new one ) So; Dusted it off and evicted the spiders, off came all the delicate bits, repainted bits I wasn`t happy with, painted around the off-register decals..... re-feathered the camouflage edges and tidied up the weathering...... and slapped it back together and gave it a few coats of matt varnish. Hope you enjoy looking at, Cheers Russ
    13 points
  3. Good day, guys. It's my next model. On May 1940 this airplane was brought down by Bf-110. The crew 2nd lieutenant Pauw and captain Ballangee was killed. What was made with model: 1. All wing and hood edges was grinded from inside; 2. Drilled approximately 200 holes for more accurate simulation of perforated flaps; 3. Wrong joints of panels was putty and cutting the new one; 4. Riveted; 5. Added belts and devices to the cockpit; 6. New antenna mast made from copper rod; 7. Ropes from nylon thread for beading; 8. Pitot tube made from copper tubes; 9. Wings headlamps cut into wing and made from “Elf” set, closed transparent tape; 10. Navigation lights also from “Elf” set; 11. Cartridge cases holes cut; 12. Guns made from the needles; 13. Replaced the engine (from “Vector”); 14. All markings made by stencils. Paints – Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Alclad. Varnishes – Future and Tamiya. Made pre-post shading, washing and oil points. Some macro and photos from building process.
    9 points
  4. Hey guys, i would like to show you my last finished kit It was built as part of the Mustang STGB, using Revell´s kit, Quickboost wheels and exhausts, mix of PE parts, which i had around and Kits-World decals. The main problem with the Revell´s kit is the canopy as it does not fit at all. So i decided to do a little surgery, cut out the area behind cockpit and altered the area infront of cockpit and used spare Hasegawa canopy. Also i used propeller from Airfix P-51D. Full WIP if anyone is interested is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965165-p-51b-revell-duo-shangri-la-b-racer/ I decided to ignore the wheel wells this time, so i was only focusing the cockpit and the fitting of the Hasegawa canopy. After some work on preshading and "pretoning" the OD (which i almost killed with too thick last layer.. gogo me ), this is the result some details around And all my mustangs so far, happy together Note: I forgot to add the tail wheel doors before taking the shots, but i was too lazy to make new shots after.. Sorry Thanks a lot guys for watching and hope you like her at least a bit Have a nice day
    7 points
  5. Well it's a craft - and it flies through the air - so I guess it belongs here....... Its the Anigrand 1:144 scale Alekse'yev KM - better known as the 'Caspian Sea Monster'..... It is HUGE - - which makes it difficult to photograph (at least that's my excuse) 'Flying' over its sea base..... .... and a bit of photo manipulation..... Ken
    6 points
  6. Well guys that is the final 3 birds of the commission completed, this brings the total to 9 Aircraft, 10 including the Drone. Been quite along few months, I think I started the project back on the 12th March, there was a gap in the middle for a few weeks so I would say around 4 months solid work. Big thanks to those who have helped along the way as there were a few obstacles here and there that needed to be clarified but with help I got there in the end. If you guys are not sick of Blackbirds I will do a follow up on all the airframes, a nice group shot, if you want. The last three, SR-71C, YF-12C and SR-71 Big Tail YF-12C. SR-71C SR-71 Big Tail. More to follow. Thanks for looking. Danny
    6 points
  7. Hello, here is my latest build. Ut is the AMK offering. Painted with humbrol 121 for pale stone, 118+70 for brown and 120+65 for pale green. Weathering with sepia oil. Here are the pictures: Hope you like it. Thanks for watching! Romain
    6 points
  8. It is sad to know they are being (already) retired from Royal Air Force of Oman service. This is 1/72 Hasegawa Jaguar with custom made decals. Best Omer ERKMEN Turkey
    5 points
  9. Hello everyone! Here I am again! This time I'll guide you through the whole building process that will end up in the completed model of a Curtiss 81A-2 or the famous P40B. I'm not sure about the site policy on using images from the internet, but if I broke any of the rules, please let me know ASAP and I'll remove them. History: This aircraft became a legend after being used by the American Volunteers Group (AVG) in China circa 1941-42, in combat against the Japanese forces. This group was later known as the Flying Tigers and the Disney Studios even designed a logo for them, but in most of the cases they displayed just the flying tiger, without the "V"and the circle. Flying Tigers emblem (internet) During this period, the China government gave a scarf for every pilot fighting in China called "Blood Chit" and was written in Chinese characters the following: "This foreign person has come to China to help in the war effort. Soldiers and civilians, one and all, should rescue and protect him". Blood Chit issued to AVG members (R. E. Baldwin Collection, via Wikipedia) I'll try to represent the aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant Charles "Chuck" Older, squadron leader of the 3rd Squadron called "Hell Angels", his plane was the "white 68". 3rd Squadron Hells Angels Squadron Leader, Flight Lieutenant Charles H. Older. Charles Older with his aircraft. 2nd aircraft in the row is #68 being refuelled. In this photo taken by R.T.Smith on the 28th May 1942 near Salween River Gorge, we can see: #68 flown by Arvid Olson, #46 flown by Bob Prescot, #49 flown by Tom Hayward, #24 flown by Ken Jernstedt, and #74 flown by Link Laughlin (B. Smith). This photograph was taken by Robert T. Smith in #77, on 28th May 1942. The shot includes: #68 flown by Arvid Olson, #46 flown by Bob Prescot and #24 flown by Ken Jernstedt (B. Smith). #68 showing the starboard side. Flight leader Robert "Duke" Hedman in Tomahawk #68 in 25th December 1941. He was accredited with destroying 4 x Ki-21 "Sallys" and 1x Ki-43 "Oscar" on this date, thus becoming America's first "Ace in a day". Cockpit detail of #68. For this project I'll use the excellent Airfix A01003 Curtis Hawk 81A-2 in 1/72nd scale. (All photos from now on are mine, except when noted). Box front. Box back and painting scheme. Decal sheet for one version only but lots os stencils provided. Clear parts for closed canopy only Instruction sheet #1/4 Instruction sheet #2/4 Instruction sheet #3/4 Instruction sheet #4/4 Sprue A Sprue B Detail under wings Nicely done engraved panel lines. The overall fit seems to be very good. Now, let's start! Beginning with the cockpit interior. I've painted all interior parts (cockpit, wheel's bays, etc) in Interior Green, since I use acrylics Tamiya Paints, I've mixed 2 parts XF3 (Yellow) + 1 part XF5 (Green) for my interior green. I airbrushed all the parts and after dry I brush painted details with XF1 (Flat Black) and let it completely dry before giving it a coat of Tamiya Panel Accent Wash (brown). Removed the excess after dried using Tamiya thinner X20 and a brush. Cockpit walls painted interior green (XF3:2+XF5:1) and details picked with XF1. Details of the decal for the instruments panel. I did change the manual hydraulic pump lever to suit the scale. This is the kit original seat, after reviewing my references I've noticed that the seat wasn't round but flat on top (see the photography showing the #68 cockpit detail above). Here is the seat corrected. The instruction calls for interior green for the seat, but all my references shows an aluminium colour instead. I've painted using XF16 (Flat Aluminium). I've done some weathering by dry brushing with aluminium. I've also picked the 2 front .50 machine guns stocks over the panel sides. I've added an Eduard PE seat belts. USAF WWII Eduard PE seat belts in place. Joined the fuselage halves and little was to put putty on. The exception is the gap just behind the seat and I still need to remove putty to place the head rest. Another view showing how good the joints are. Almost no putty was used. I've glued the wings in place. Very nice fit with not much filling needed. Next I moved to the spinner. It is missing the panel lines since this piece is made of three parts, the bottom and middle section connects to sandwich the propellers, and then the top. I've used a very simple technique, just place a micro saw between a book to the desired height and than move the part against the blade. Move the blade to another height and repeat the process. Simple like that! Here is the final part. I've added the cooling slats, the kit has the option of open or closed. I also installed the radiator cover. It required a little bit of putty, but nothing to scare! Here is the motor cover in place, a little bit of sanding to match the parts. I've also decided to open the exhausts. It is a very simple thing to do with micro drills and it really enhances the model appearance. On the left side is the part with the holes opened and on the right is the original part. I've worked on painting (Tamiya Matt Brown) some parts here the exhausts and the tires hub, I've just used the colour that was in the airbrush here since there is a decal covering everything. Painted the tires using Tamiya Rubber Tires. The propeller received a first cover of Tamiya Matt Yellow (XF3), then it will be masked off to paint with Matt Black. Corrected the rudder horn Another view of the horn Inserted the needles "machine guns" in the nose... ... and the wings Just a "mug" photo Pre-shade done, model is read for painting, underside ..... .... and upper side Landing gear painted, using Tamyia XF19 Sky Grey Painted the disc breaker in XF19 Sky Grey Propeller painted in XF1 matt Black Wheels centre come in a separated piece which helps to paint and detail, in this case the decals is in place Now I'll weather the sub-assemblies and start thinking about the painting.
    5 points
  10. I had been meaning to build a model of the Breda 88 aircraft since the first time I saw it in a book some 15 years ago. The picture showed only the front half of the airplane but it was enough for me -I only had to put trust on the Italian “finezza” for the other half and I was proven right! A few years later I got a word from a fellow modeler that there’s been a new release and that was it. A brand new 1/48th scale Breda 88 Warrior Models resin kit laid on my workbench. It took me almost 3 years to build this model but I admit that it could have been completed a lot sooner. The kit was extensively modified and reworked: cockpit, canopy, wheel wells, landing gear, slats, flaps and right engine accessories are scratch-built. There are 150 WIP pics that I might find the time to post in the near future. Anyway I very much enjoyed building it despite the difficulties during the process simply because its fine lines compensated me for each and every one of them. Now I have in my collection a representation of one of the most beautiful aircraft of WW II. I hope you will enjoy the pics. r
    4 points
  11. HMS Hermes served with the Royal Navy from 1959 to 1984 and still is in service with the India Navy as INS Viraat . Another great kit from Orange hobby,this kit is so good, only need to add some railings to the walkways around the funnel.It comes with a excellent P.E. set and all of it gets used, good decals,you only get 2 SeaHarriers and 2 Seakings,but can buy extras ones and Harriers come with a tug and tow bar ,I also added a Wessex, RAF Harriers and a Chinook from John (BFM).Vehicles from WEM again resin. The Escort HMS Battleaxe a Type 22 Batch 1 Frigate from White Ensign models,needed a lot a work to bring it up to Hermes standard.Last thing,not sure about having the blades look like they are moving on the Chinook,time will tell.Both kits are resin models.The figures are all Eduard. Build for HMS Hermes http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234958877-1700-hms-hermes-1982-orangehobby-resinpe/ Build for HMS Battleaxe http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234943484-hms-battleaxe-type-22-1700-wem-resin-kit/ Enjoy
    4 points
  12. Next update. The T-stoff tank has been put on its base and weathered. The good news about the seam is that there was one on the actual tank. That is a relief. I had no idea how to fix it without ruining the detail on the parts. The T-stoff bulkheads were then painted and weathered. Once dry, they are ready for attachment to the T-stoff base. Say good bye to all of that lovely detail as once they are attached to the tank base that lovely detail will be all but invisible. And here is the T-stoff tank ready to be inserted between the rocket engine and cockpit assembly. The rocket engine is a little kit all to itself. Here are the main parts built up with just the main fuel tubes attached. Warning, this is picture heavy as the detail is hard to get in one or two shots. It is a fiddly little assembly until all the parts are glued and harden. After that, it is not as fragile as it looks. Multiple wires and tubes next have to be put in the turbine assembly section. Once finagled into place, though, they will probably not be seen. There is also another main fuel tube that needs to be attached. After that, the rocket engine is complete. It was quite fun trying to sneak in all the inner wires leading from their connection at the turbine to the bulkhead. With a pen light and knowing what to look for, you might even catch a glimpse of them. I know they are there, but I can’t even get photographic evidence they exist. Work will stop here for a while as I have to let this one set until I get some other builds finished. In the meantime, I need to figure out what scheme I am going to do. Since a new documentary about Capt. Brown arrived, I am tempted to do the aircraft he tested. The only thing giving me pause is all of that yellow that needs to be done and I hate to paint yellow. I have no aircraft in my collection with Capt. Brown’s markings. Seems this should be a good one for him. While I decide to bite the bullet, as always, all comments welcome.
    4 points
  13. Wasn't it something along the lines of 'variable noise - constant thrust' for the viper? When I was young and had a role in making the noise I used to think it was the sound of freedom. Now I'm inclined to Ex-FAAWAFU's interpretation of it as a 'Din'. Last time I was walking up in Scotland there were Typhoons meandering about at 5000' plus - and I just wanted them to pi** off. Got a busy week with work but I was keen to get the black on the nose as it looked kind of odd in it's absence. Tamiya Nato black with a bit of white mixed in to lighten it a tad further. This where all my chambers's post it notes go - artistic eh? I tell you I was a bit nervous when it came to unmasking: Pretty good. Like Cheshiretaurus I've got a little bit of cleaning up to do - maybe a tweek here or there. I'll probably protect the black with a light coat of Klear once I'm happy with it. Could have gone badly wrong but didn't tho...... Looks a bit more lik a JP now; albeit a bit too shiny and toy like at the mo. Also a bit nervous about what I'll find when I take the nose light masking off........ Steve
    4 points
  14. A completely out of the box build of Hasegawa's Mitchell: No any extra parts, no any etchd or scratchbild - just kit. All comments and criticisms welcome. Sergiy.
    3 points
  15. HobbyBoss M26 Pershing with Accurate Armour M45 Howitzer Tank conversion with replacement MG's by RB Model 6th Tank Battalion, 24th Infantry Division Khumbo River, Korea, September 1950 supporting troops during the advance to the Naktong River build thread here Hope you like?
    3 points
  16. Thanks Col,, (still got some nooks and crannies, not to mention crevices to delve into on the old girl). It should be a great show as usual, especially if you can fire all three up... look forward to catching up with you and the chaps again...) No problem at all young Pvt Moore, damn fine stuff and a must for all bipe types !....ah the divine beauty that is the Blackburn Blackburn, takes me back to my yoof, (courted a few BB's in my time !), the Madagascan Aye-Aye of the aviation world.. Well the smaller set (008'') of Archer rivets arrived this morning and before you know it...they're almost all gone !...well actually 5 hours later and with the onset of severe eye strain I've managed to get one airbrake, both actuator arms and the undercarriage doors done. It took so long because as I anticipated the compound curve of the airbrake petals means that the rivet strips needed to be cut into small sections and then 'persuaded around the bend (know how it feels !), but I think it was worth the effort. I've was also able to finish the nose gear door and its rivetting so that's another thing out of the way, but I'm going to need another set of rivets to do the other half and airbrake inners !!...well no one said it would be easy or cheap ! Right I'm off for a cold bath, Cheers all,....tally, bally ho.... Melchie.... The starboard airbrake petal finished...only one more to do now !!! The pieces all together for a group shot... One of the main gear doors, sorry it's slightly blurred...the old pork pies were beginning to give out ... Both ready for final coat ......(there aren't any rivets missing on the lower one, it's just the light hitting them at an angle).. And another group shot with the new nose door....just got to make up and fit the actuators now..
    3 points
  17. In researching a design for the rocket stand I found there are lots of pictures of modern metal stands in museums but this is the best (and pretty much only) contemporary image of one: It looks like its made out of wood. If I combine this with the Meng kit stand information that g-usa sent me I think I can come up with a hybrid design:
    3 points
  18. Paint-job & finishing details: The end. Ready For Inspection topic can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963860-breda-ba88-lince-warrior-models-148/
    3 points
  19. Airfix 1/72 F-51 Mustang SAAF "My Boy". Build thread.
    3 points
  20. evening all been pretty frantic lately so first time at the bench for a while and thought I would drop in with a little postette... ..been working on the rear cockpit parts for the Hornet - first up a bulkhead that closes the cockpit from the rear fuselage and carries the fuel filler pipe from the filling point behind the canopy back into the fuselage (& I assume wing) tanks.. ..the card shape took ages to get right as I couldn't get access and the pipe itself is a bit of rubber pipe with a wire core... ..dressed with some brass rivet detail and fitted... next up will be applying a pressed aluminium face to the curved main spar cover you can see at the bottom of this pic... ...first a sheet of thin brass shim cut to shape with a bit of tracing paper stuck to it to mark out on... ..next I punched out the radiuses and shaped the apertures, followed by 'flaring' the edges to give the impression of a stamped aluminium sheet part. This was done very carefully with an assortment of tools and actually took quite a while... ..I gave up trying to do the centre aperture and ended up covering it with a bit of card... ...the real thing has some embossed strengthening strakes so I tried putting tape on a bit of perspex, taping the part to it and scribing the back with a pin in a pin vise - I tried all these things on a scrap bit of brass before committing... ..then I had to bend it, so taped it to a punch of the right diameter and carefully worked it around it... ...fitted it with CA and added a rear spacer panel to dress the whole area... ..dry fitted it in the fuselage and while a fair bit of work it worked out ok... ...much of the top deck can't be seen with the ammo bins in place, but hey, I build a lot of stuff that can't be seen.... ..good to be back in the groove again..until next time folks.. TTFN Peter
    3 points
  21. Today I have just been working on the engine again. I started to fabricate the second main pipeline with this soldering set-up: The thickest rod is 0.8mm, the rear part 0.6mm and the stub pipe 0.4mm. I got that all soldered and cleaned up and then realised that the stub pipe was on the wrong side so I took it all apart and started again: What a dingbat. I had put some 0.8mm tube on the ends to represent the connections and managed to slip a length of 0.6mm tube onto the stub pipe after the rod had been trimmed: After many failed attempts I managed to make two acceptable looking flanges that I slipped on before further bending operations: Here is the new pipe installed: Using some blue coloured 0.3mm copper wire (from Little Cars) with a little length of 0.5mm tube on the end I soldered on this small side pipe: That connects to this dubrey attached underneath with is just made from a saved ejector pin feature: This is how it looks from the side: My cunning plan is to mask the blue pipe somehow and retain its metallic blue finish. I finished putting the last pieces of PE on the engine: I can't really do any more on it now until the stand is designed and built.
    3 points
  22. Yay - Page 2!! Time for another update, although a much quicker one this time!! More progress! Following Shermaniac's advice I had a go at making the mantlet cover from some very fine tissue paper that came wrapped around some new shoes Mrs Badger had recently bought. I firstly cut out the rough shape, then screwed this up to break up the fibres, before soaking it in a mix of pva and warm water. I then applied this to the mantlet, ensuring it had a few creases. I had to add an extra piece to one side where it tore, but generally I think it looks pretty good. I then added the jerrycans to the rear deck based on several photos I have of Korean War M46s. The retaining cage was made with some beading wire bent with tweezers and superglued in place. The hinge or mudscraper (?) on the rear mudguard is completely missing from the Trumpeter kit, so was made from a section of photoetched ejector seat railing with a piece of wire in the centre to give it a 3d shape. Not totally accurate, but better than nothing. Onto the turret and I had a go at making the mounting plate for the 50cal machine gun in front of the commander's cupola. I used some very thin plastic card and rod and kept trimming and shaping it, until it looked right. Time for a progress check: Turret: to do from last post: Periscope guard for loader - Done Mantlet cover - Done Periscope guard/MG mount for commander - Done Replace hatch handles with etch or wire replacements - Done Add aerial mounts - Done (not on photos) Fashion a square of plastic card for the left front by the mantlet where a bracket has been removed - Done This must mean the turret is done and ready for priming!!! Hull: to do from last post: Periscope guards - Done Remaining 3 fender reinforcements (not on photos) Add reinforcing strip to rear fenders - Done Replace hatch handles with etch / wire - Not doing as moulded ones actually look ok, being proper handles and not blobs. Add lights - still to do Replace light brush guards for more scale appearance - still to do Replace broken MG - done (not on photos) Add tools to pioneer frame - still to do Add missing towing point on glacis plate - still to do Add rear towing points and hook - done (not on photos) So a bit still to do on the hull. Aiming to clear this today and get it primed. The base has had some more paint and washes. Still needs "something" doing to it before I add the puddles, but not sure what that "something" is. It'll come to me I'm sure. A final photo for now: Thanks for looking Ben
    3 points
  23. Hello guys! I'm glad to present you my last work... a Kfir C7 from Kinetic! For this kit I used the following aftermarket: Wingman Models cockpit,wheels & GBU-12 laser bombs. Master pitot & AOA. Isracast pylons & fuel tanks (the plastic tanks provided by Kinetic are completely wrong in dimensions). Quickboost air scoops & antennas. Aires exhaust. Decals are a mix from kinetic (very well done indeed) and Isradecal. Gunze Aqueos colors. Hope you enjoy my Kfir! Cheers. Valerio from Rome, Italy.
    2 points
  24. Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they also suggested getting a book which included the manual and infinitely more in-depth images. (The Vulcan Story 1952-2002 by Tim Laming) And so it began, all made of plasticard with the seat cushions made of milliput. Obviously there is still A LOT of work to do I think it is coming along nicely and the 3 panels shown at the end were made today with clear plastic used to serve as the ground scanning radar screen and a few dials. Thanks for that, cue the images! Sam And so after an hour of fannying around with Google+, Flickr and now Photobucket, the photos now work!
    2 points
  25. Recently finished this build, now has a base to finish it off. Will be taking to East of Scotland model show, if anyone is going come say hello. Pete
    2 points
  26. Bit of a boring day trying to build websites so took some time off to do a bit of late spring cleaning: Started with a Merlin X This Mk24 needed a bit of sprucing up I'm not going in there... Bloody air racers, never think about wiping their boots This looks like that airfix kit I just bought Now I should really start making some of the models in my stash...
    2 points
  27. First off, I was coerced into this build. It was not my fault and I didn't want to start it just yet. I realize I have too many projects going at once and it would be nice to complete one or two. But this is all Nigel's fault. The creator of AA and past purveyor of Antics is entirely to blame. I was innocently perusing some threads and came across his build of the 1/48 Dragon Me 163 Komet. In his thread, he stated he had purchased after market goodies that included a resin rocket engine. Since it was so pretty, it needed to be displayed and he innocently asked if anyone had any ideas about an engine stand for this plane. What a ploy!!! I had the 1/32 Meng kit of the Me-163B Komet in the stash and had been avoiding it because it was so tempting to build. I also knew the kit had display stands for the rocket engine and tail assembly. So, being the good-natured soul I am, I offered to look in the kit to see how the stands were portrayed to help him out. He further sucked me into his web by wondering about the detail of the rocket engine. So now, I am looking through the kit instructions for details about the stands and the engine build. I find both. My plan was to send him copies of the appropriate instruction pages and then photos of the kit parts regarding the stands and engine so he can use them to detail his kit. What a trap. Here I am removing parts from the sprue for him and drooling over the detail in this kit. The stands were very simple parts wise and I thought why not build them up and take pictures of the completed assembly. As I was doing that, I noticed some comments in his thread about the detail of the rocket engine and how some of the PE parts were not just cutting it. I then started removing engine parts and . . . yeah, I'm hooked on this kit. So this build will begin with the stands and the rocket engine. Please bear with me, as this build will start strangely with the support stands. They consists of 5 parts creating 2 stands. One stand is to support the rocket engine as it is exposed from the end of the aircraft. The other stand is to support the tail structure that is removed to expose the engine. The stand supporting the tail assembly is complete, no assembly. (Yea, no work except for painting.) The stand for the tail assembly consists of 4 parts and is very simple to piece together. The way Meng represents the stand makes me think they were made out of wood. So, the toughest part of the stands will be to represent the wood grain. Or, I can just decide they were painted and move on! Next up, assembly of the rocket engine. Upon examining the parts on the sprue, you have to wonder if you can remove some of them because they are so delicate. The detail is just superb. I started doing sub-assemblies for the rocket engine tailpipe, the rocket engine turbine and the T-stoff tank. The only real problem I ran into was the T-stoff tank. The join of the two halves of the tank is not good; either my fault or design of the kit. Normally, I just fix the join as filler and putty are my constant companion, but in this case, that will be difficult because of all the matching straps and tank machinings. I can’t really think of a way to fix it. Hopefully, most of it will be hidden and not seen. All the engine parts were then given their base colors. While everything dries, I will hang my head in shame I was so tricked into starting this build. It is Nigel’s fault!! As always, all comments are welcome.
    2 points
  28. I see what you mean Bruce, hadnt spotted that before, non of my ref pics of 304 had a clear shot of the nav lights but this one does, I'll have a think about how to do it, thin 0.25mm decal maybe like the white on the canopy. BTW Bruce thanks for your help on the other forum, Know what you mean about matching the colours on the Newark aircraft but felt in the absence of 304 it was the nearest point of reference available although I could well just be matching another painters interpretation. Grey did match the Varsity & Jetstream though, dont think I check any other aircraft that day. As far as the alclad is concerned I'm looking for ways to tone it down hence a matt or satin background, I have also read it can be mixed with enamel to alter the shade as well. Humbrol metal coat and HU56 are also in the running for this job. Want to try go get alclad to look right as the Humbrol metallics seem to have a large grain. The experiment will be an education too. Speaking of the test card got the black and grey on this afternoon. Mark
    2 points
  29. Thanks a lot guys. The colour came out better than I first thought in the spray box, I'm quite happy with it. I will use the white stripe decal from the kit over the bonnet, but just because it reminds me of some old Alfa Romeo racers. In between some work sessions during the day I dived in to my workshop now and then for some small paint jobs. One of the benefits of having my work office at home. I got some detail painting done to the main body. There is some more work remaining before decals, but the worst thing I have left is to fill all those vent louvres with a tiny black shadow, not fun... Here is the mighty power unit, or rather the section of it that resides underneath. This is what a full race spec endurance version looks like, built to last at least 24 hours. The only units producing slightly more power to volume/weight ratio is the Grand Prix versions, but they do so at great expense of reliability. The blow up failures are spectacular and not perfectly safe... And here is our driver/pilot finished. It's quite unforgiving blowing him up in size in a photo like this, a few times larger than his real size.
    2 points
  30. WOW very interested thanks, That is such a wonderful photo I love seeing stuff like this, What I would give to go there having a look around there, It looks huge. I would love to know who the people are to the right and what they are doing. Thanks yes I like the look of the intakes. Pit Road got them a little wrong, the lower lip should sit further back and the whole aperture should have a slight taper to the wing root, Also the wing root is too fat and rounded but I can live with it and it looks pretty good. Thanks very Much John I have decided to do XL444 in 50 SQN markings. She had a grey thimble with a black rind around it so I have left the thimble HU64 grey and masked it with Tamiya I just hope it works as this is a tiny thing to mask. Then I painted the ring at the back with Revel Aqua Anthracite. I will then mask that and hope it works. I am currently just brushing it with a few coats of Gelbolive then the long blue tak masking process begins. If anyone has any shots of XL444 in the wrap around scheme I would love to see them please. Top and bottom surface shots most welcome as I like to try and get each ones pattern right rather than doing a generic job. Cheers Rob
    2 points
  31. looking at photos no two were the same some had the the black around the cockpit steps, Some had the single yellow blade, Some had the struts black So many differences from aircraft to aircraft. Mine is just a generic one Rodders
    2 points
  32. Hey Rob, My nearest and dearest has just been having a clear out in the loft and stumbled across a few photo's that I was given when I finished work. I thought that this might interest you, it is of one of the Vulcan assembly bays and it looks like it may be at Chadderton. Your Vulcan is starting to come together now, nice work on sorting the intake lip out.
    2 points
  33. Oki, so the Shangri La is finished (after i made the photos, i noticed i still did not add the tail wheel doors, but i did not want to re-make the photos after i added these..) I m quite happy how she turned out, the hasegawa canopy helped a bit i think. Hope you ll like her Here are some shots, more are in RFI http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965689-p-51b-shangri-la-revell-172/ some dust and oil work on the bottom side and the position and formation lights painted by gloss black base, then some silver dot to middle and overpainted with clear colours. well, the racer next i guess.. and i got home with some academy B and C kits.. and decals for the gunfighter P-51D, so i guess i ll fill up the stable a bit yet
    2 points
  34. Cheers Dan. Moved on with the side entrance parts , these are Dafis resin one's, you can see how good the detail is, this comes in three parts, sides and top, did the sides with Life color Anthrazitgrau and a gold over. One of the sides. Many more smaller items on the go, but an overall picture so far. As you can see its all coming together on the upper deck. Weather permitting I will take this to our monthly main meeting. Cheers foxy.
    2 points
  35. How scary is that! I'm thinking if Google has this as a scholarly work backed up by massive amounts of research how sad are their algorithms? I thought they invested big bucks in those. You think I should post a disclaimer?
    2 points
  36. "Son of a bitch" maybe Russ, but well worth the effort!
    2 points
  37. Nigel ™ Spreading the good word since 2012. All you need is a personal logo (if Dalek is under some trademark protection) and you're good to go...
    2 points
  38. I am still researching my rocket engine stand and when I did a Google search this thread was the first thing that popped up. You're famous g-usa and thanks for sending me all the information.
    2 points
  39. There is nothing terrible or undoable in rigging, as to me it's probably the most enjoyable part of biplane modelling. RIG IT!
    2 points
  40. Cheers Tom and more paint on now. The undercarriage lack so much in detail I have simply painted them all black so they blend in. Sadly I wish I noticed the oversize and wrong angled door fit on the front wheel, But it seems extremely strong this way, Probably designed that way as in its day this would have been seen more a toy than model. Dam good one though. I put the Canberra on a sheet of sand paper on a piece of glass to keep it true and very gently moved her back a few times and forward a few times whilst checking the look on bare glass, Then circular sanded her a few times to put flats on the tyres and make her look heavy. or like she's been sat a long time. I have sprayed her with humbrol 85 satin black from the can which has gone on very nice. and de masked her, Few touch ups needed as always but on the whole I am happy and the exhausts come out ok. I am very happy that I shimmed the canopy up so far I think its been an improvement but I am no expert here. So that's were I am now not bad progress seeing as this one was being done in between other projects, But her charm won me over and I have ended up spending time on here Love the shape. Cheers Rob
    2 points
  41. Cockpit is from the matchbox kit it is just a reprensation not an accurate copy of the real thing cockpit masked ready for spraying. The struts are from the matchbox kit as theses are in the ground position as opposed to the novo one which represent the aircraft in flight. the wheels will be the novo one. I am loving doing this cross kit I know it will not be accurate for some but I am fine with the way it is turning out.
    2 points
  42. Just taken the masking off, good advise from Fritag, the black will need rework on its forward corners. So plan is to leave this until after the decaling. and satin coat, then a coat of matt black again rather than a clear matt coat. Nav lights are now much crisper, need to remember to remask these prior to the satin. Think attention now will turn to the undercarriage and flap bays.
    2 points
  43. I'm sitting here shaking my head a little at the excitement that a cracked and/or distorted part can engender, and the feeling from reading some posts that Airfix have done it on purpose just to spite you. I think both sides of the "argument" if that's the word for it need to take a step back, and breathe for a minute. Airfix are aware of the problem, and they have said that a solution will be forthcoming. For those that have contacted them very early on, they might have received a good, bad or indifferent replacement because at the time there was no alternative. How many of us I wonder are actually having our builds held up by this issue that needs sorting yesterday? Not many, I'd imagine, as we're all inveterate hoarders of tonnes of kits. Give Airfix some time, and I'm sure they will sort it out to (almost) everyone's satisfaction. Afterall, adjusting a mould, testing and then re-running a batch of sprues isn't the work of an evening - it takes time, and then has to travel from India to the UK before it can be re-checked, and finally distributed between the spares people and the boxes in the warehouses around the country with possibly faulty canopies. It's a logistical nightmare. At the moment, hearing people talking of not buying Airfix again over this, and how their QC is non-existent, it's like a remake of Chicken Likin and the sky falling down. I don't mean to ruffle feathers (geddit?), but let's be a bit more objective about it, please!
    2 points
  44. Ah George I can't help noticing that yours is bigger than Nigel's. Can you show us all the bits still on the sprue so we can get an idea just how big it is please? Mekon, where is that wonderful place full of thingies and whotsits? Looks like it's worth a visit. Duncan B
    2 points
  45. Tricky Blighters these English chappies. The force is strong in this one!
    2 points
  46. Oh Gosh how the mighty have fallen - the wunderkit of the decade and now we are all uptight about the canopy. Remind me never to become a plastic kit manufacturer. All I can see is evidence that Airfix are rectifying the problem as fast as they can - pity some other manufacturers can't do the same.
    2 points
  47. It does not take long with Mr Surfacer I love the stuff and wanted to experiment with this panel line reduction for a while. I don't mind the panel lines on this one I just want to experiment and see if this may make it look bigger, I hope there will be a very slight depression to show were panels meet rather than trench warfare on the model. Only got the rest of it to do now
    2 points
  48. Well it looks as rough as the dog nuts at the moment but it is just scraps of plastic after all. I have glued it all in place and when its stiffened I will get in there with little files and Mr surfacer. Cheers Rob
    2 points
  49. Thanks Sean yes its very old I think the kit was first issued in 1959 !. So its very good for then as its still very acceptable today. I done some more in the pit, Very rough I have never scratched anything for an interior before. Rob
    2 points
  50. Well its not like you can go wrong at this stage mostly bits still lol. I applied some Mr Surfacer 500 to the recessed roundel lines which after a few hours has shrunk back nicely, I shall put another coat on then get it flatted back with the mylar stick. I intend to the join the scribed lines to the same depth as given, Then go over all the panel lines with a coat of MrS500 to reduce the depth of the lines, Bit of an experiment but good practice for when I tackle some future builds with deep lines. Cheers Rob
    2 points
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