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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/13/2014 in all areas

  1. I suspect you a probably all bored to death with Blackbirds but I thought I should close out the commission properly with a summary of the builds and their differences. I promise no more Blackbirds for the foreseeable future. Once again, thankyou to everyone who help along the way. A-12, this is where it all began, single seat, NMF in the beginning with them all finally being painted the normal Black we all know. Kiwi Resin conversion for the nose and tail, additional Q-BAY windows, some Eduard Etch and all painted in Tamiya Acrylics. A-12 Titanium Goose, this is the trainin
    16 points
  2. Howdy everyone, Seeing as I`ve painted myself into a corner, yet again, I hope you don`t mind me posting some pic`s of probably the oldest build surviving in my collection, but one I stripped down and refurbished a while back. My attempt at the Revell/Monogram 1/48 Pro Modeller Helldiver, which I built but was never happy with and which languished in the loft insulation... until I felt inspired enough to have another go.( and was too tight to buy a new one ) So; Dusted it off and evicted the spiders, off came all the delicate bits, repainted bits I wasn`t
    13 points
  3. Good day, guys. It's my next model. On May 1940 this airplane was brought down by Bf-110. The crew 2nd lieutenant Pauw and captain Ballangee was killed. What was made with model: 1. All wing and hood edges was grinded from inside; 2. Drilled approximately 200 holes for more accurate simulation of perforated flaps; 3. Wrong joints of panels was putty and cutting the new one; 4. Riveted; 5. Added belts and devices to the cockpit; 6. New antenna mast made from copper rod; 7. Ropes from nylon thread for beadin
    9 points
  4. Hey guys, i would like to show you my last finished kit It was built as part of the Mustang STGB, using Revell´s kit, Quickboost wheels and exhausts, mix of PE parts, which i had around and Kits-World decals. The main problem with the Revell´s kit is the canopy as it does not fit at all. So i decided to do a little surgery, cut out the area behind cockpit and altered the area infront of cockpit and used spare Hasegawa canopy. Also i used propeller from Airfix P-51D. Full WIP if anyone is interested is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965165-p-51b-revell-duo-shangr
    7 points
  5. Well it's a craft - and it flies through the air - so I guess it belongs here....... Its the Anigrand 1:144 scale Alekse'yev KM - better known as the 'Caspian Sea Monster'..... It is HUGE - - which makes it difficult to photograph (at least that's my excuse) 'Flying' over its sea base..... .... and a bit of photo manipulation..... Ken
    6 points
  6. Well guys that is the final 3 birds of the commission completed, this brings the total to 9 Aircraft, 10 including the Drone. Been quite along few months, I think I started the project back on the 12th March, there was a gap in the middle for a few weeks so I would say around 4 months solid work. Big thanks to those who have helped along the way as there were a few obstacles here and there that needed to be clarified but with help I got there in the end. If you guys are not sick of Blackbirds I will do a follow up on all the airframes, a nice group shot, if you want. The last three, SR-71C
    6 points
  7. Hello, here is my latest build. Ut is the AMK offering. Painted with humbrol 121 for pale stone, 118+70 for brown and 120+65 for pale green. Weathering with sepia oil. Here are the pictures: Hope you like it. Thanks for watching! Romain
    6 points
  8. It is sad to know they are being (already) retired from Royal Air Force of Oman service. This is 1/72 Hasegawa Jaguar with custom made decals. Best Omer ERKMEN Turkey
    5 points
  9. Hello everyone! Here I am again! This time I'll guide you through the whole building process that will end up in the completed model of a Curtiss 81A-2 or the famous P40B. I'm not sure about the site policy on using images from the internet, but if I broke any of the rules, please let me know ASAP and I'll remove them. History: This aircraft became a legend after being used by the American Volunteers Group (AVG) in China circa 1941-42, in combat against the Japanese forces. This group was later known as the Flying Tigers and the Disney Studios even designed a logo for them, but
    5 points
  10. I had been meaning to build a model of the Breda 88 aircraft since the first time I saw it in a book some 15 years ago. The picture showed only the front half of the airplane but it was enough for me -I only had to put trust on the Italian “finezza” for the other half and I was proven right! A few years later I got a word from a fellow modeler that there’s been a new release and that was it. A brand new 1/48th scale Breda 88 Warrior Models resin kit laid on my workbench. It took me almost 3 years to build this model but I admit that it could have been completed a lot sooner. The kit was
    4 points
  11. HMS Hermes served with the Royal Navy from 1959 to 1984 and still is in service with the India Navy as INS Viraat . Another great kit from Orange hobby,this kit is so good, only need to add some railings to the walkways around the funnel.It comes with a excellent P.E. set and all of it gets used, good decals,you only get 2 SeaHarriers and 2 Seakings,but can buy extras ones and Harriers come with a tug and tow bar ,I also added a Wessex, RAF Harriers and a Chinook from John (BFM).Vehicles from WEM again resin. The Escort HMS Battleaxe a Type 22 Batch 1 Frigate from White Ensign models,needed
    4 points
  12. Next update. The T-stoff tank has been put on its base and weathered. The good news about the seam is that there was one on the actual tank. That is a relief. I had no idea how to fix it without ruining the detail on the parts. The T-stoff bulkheads were then painted and weathered. Once dry, they are ready for attachment to the T-stoff base. Say good bye to all of that lovely detail as once they are attached to the tank base that lovely detail will be all but invisible. And here is the T-stoff tank ready to be inserted between the rocket engine and cockpit assembly. The rocket e
    4 points
  13. Wasn't it something along the lines of 'variable noise - constant thrust' for the viper? When I was young and had a role in making the noise I used to think it was the sound of freedom. Now I'm inclined to Ex-FAAWAFU's interpretation of it as a 'Din'. Last time I was walking up in Scotland there were Typhoons meandering about at 5000' plus - and I just wanted them to pi** off. Got a busy week with work but I was keen to get the black on the nose as it looked kind of odd in it's absence. Tamiya Nato black with a bit of white mixed in to lighten it a tad further. This where all my chambers's
    4 points
  14. A completely out of the box build of Hasegawa's Mitchell: No any extra parts, no any etchd or scratchbild - just kit. All comments and criticisms welcome. Sergiy.
    3 points
  15. HobbyBoss M26 Pershing with Accurate Armour M45 Howitzer Tank conversion with replacement MG's by RB Model 6th Tank Battalion, 24th Infantry Division Khumbo River, Korea, September 1950 supporting troops during the advance to the Naktong River build thread here Hope you like?
    3 points
  16. Thanks Col,, (still got some nooks and crannies, not to mention crevices to delve into on the old girl). It should be a great show as usual, especially if you can fire all three up... look forward to catching up with you and the chaps again...) No problem at all young Pvt Moore, damn fine stuff and a must for all bipe types !....ah the divine beauty that is the Blackburn Blackburn, takes me back to my yoof, (courted a few BB's in my time !), the Madagascan Aye-Aye of the aviation world.. Well the smaller set (008'') of Archer rivets arrived this morning and before you know it...they're almos
    3 points
  17. In researching a design for the rocket stand I found there are lots of pictures of modern metal stands in museums but this is the best (and pretty much only) contemporary image of one: It looks like its made out of wood. If I combine this with the Meng kit stand information that g-usa sent me I think I can come up with a hybrid design:
    3 points
  18. Paint-job & finishing details: The end. Ready For Inspection topic can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963860-breda-ba88-lince-warrior-models-148/
    3 points
  19. Airfix 1/72 F-51 Mustang SAAF "My Boy". Build thread.
    3 points
  20. evening all been pretty frantic lately so first time at the bench for a while and thought I would drop in with a little postette... ..been working on the rear cockpit parts for the Hornet - first up a bulkhead that closes the cockpit from the rear fuselage and carries the fuel filler pipe from the filling point behind the canopy back into the fuselage (& I assume wing) tanks.. ..the card shape took ages to get right as I couldn't get access and the pipe itself is a bit of rubber pipe with a wire core... ..dressed with some brass rivet detail and fitted... next up will be applying a
    3 points
  21. Today I have just been working on the engine again. I started to fabricate the second main pipeline with this soldering set-up: The thickest rod is 0.8mm, the rear part 0.6mm and the stub pipe 0.4mm. I got that all soldered and cleaned up and then realised that the stub pipe was on the wrong side so I took it all apart and started again: What a dingbat. I had put some 0.8mm tube on the ends to represent the connections and managed to slip a length of 0.6mm tube onto the stub pipe after the rod had been trimmed: After many failed attempts I managed to make two acceptable looking flan
    3 points
  22. Yay - Page 2!! Time for another update, although a much quicker one this time!! More progress! Following Shermaniac's advice I had a go at making the mantlet cover from some very fine tissue paper that came wrapped around some new shoes Mrs Badger had recently bought. I firstly cut out the rough shape, then screwed this up to break up the fibres, before soaking it in a mix of pva and warm water. I then applied this to the mantlet, ensuring it had a few creases. I had to add an extra piece to one side where it tore, but generally I think it looks pretty good. I then added the jerrycan
    3 points
  23. Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they a
    2 points
  24. Here a very old model of an italian starfighter: out of the Hasegawa boy with spare (at least partly correct , Paolo, please ignore the details ) decals hope you still like it!
    2 points
  25. Hello guys! I'm glad to present you my last work... a Kfir C7 from Kinetic! For this kit I used the following aftermarket: Wingman Models cockpit,wheels & GBU-12 laser bombs. Master pitot & AOA. Isracast pylons & fuel tanks (the plastic tanks provided by Kinetic are completely wrong in dimensions). Quickboost air scoops & antennas. Aires exhaust. Decals are a mix from kinetic (very well done indeed) and Isradecal. Gunze Aqueos colors. Hope you enjoy my Kfir! Cheers. Valerio from Rome, Italy.
    2 points
  26. Just completed today was my build of the old 1/72 Hasegawa M3/Grant in 7th Armoured Div markings. As many of you know this was released in the early 1970's and has all the hallmarks of a kit release of that time. Nevertheless, with some effort and the traditional battle of the rubber tracks, I think she came out quite alright. Enjoy! - Adam
    2 points
  27. First off, I was coerced into this build. It was not my fault and I didn't want to start it just yet. I realize I have too many projects going at once and it would be nice to complete one or two. But this is all Nigel's fault. The creator of AA and past purveyor of Antics is entirely to blame. I was innocently perusing some threads and came across his build of the 1/48 Dragon Me 163 Komet. In his thread, he stated he had purchased after market goodies that included a resin rocket engine. Since it was so pretty, it needed to be displayed and he innocently asked if anyone had any ideas a
    2 points
  28. I see what you mean Bruce, hadnt spotted that before, non of my ref pics of 304 had a clear shot of the nav lights but this one does, I'll have a think about how to do it, thin 0.25mm decal maybe like the white on the canopy. BTW Bruce thanks for your help on the other forum, Know what you mean about matching the colours on the Newark aircraft but felt in the absence of 304 it was the nearest point of reference available although I could well just be matching another painters interpretation. Grey did match the Varsity & Jetstream though, dont think I check any other aircraft that day.
    2 points
  29. Excellent questions Tim. All I can do is say what I do. It's not necessarily the right way. It's just what I do but seems to be working - so far! The rattle can is by a company called Hycote. It was just what was available in my local car shop. As for the final coat, I tend to spray Klear before the decals and then Alclad2 Klear Kote light sheen as a final coat. However, I'm not too happy with the Klear Kote as it seems to take a long time to dry. I'm talking months rather than days or weeks. I have a Mig-15 which I finished in April but is still a bit tacky...! So I will be experimenting
    2 points
  30. Well done Scooter for tackling this oldie. The quality of the turret has triggered some response and I would like to show you my solution to the problem. I bought this model to use up a set of Bison decals and was appalled by the shape of the turret. I had a block of lime wood that I bought years ago at a woodworker show. I looked on the net for plans and photographs, made some paper templates and got carving. I got the shape I was looking for in about an hour. I then carefully shaved the details off the Hasegawa turret and superglued them on to the wooden one. After filling the grain with so
    2 points
  31. Thanks a lot guys. The colour came out better than I first thought in the spray box, I'm quite happy with it. I will use the white stripe decal from the kit over the bonnet, but just because it reminds me of some old Alfa Romeo racers. In between some work sessions during the day I dived in to my workshop now and then for some small paint jobs. One of the benefits of having my work office at home. I got some detail painting done to the main body. There is some more work remaining before decals, but the worst thing I have left is to fill all those vent louvres with a tiny black shadow, not fun
    2 points
  32. Just to clarify what we are talking about. Humbrol satin cote - in the 28ml glass bottles suggested to be cellulose based Humbrol clear (gloss) - in the 125ml bottles Acrylic And the forthcoming matt and satin clears And the tinlets that are allegedly prone to yellowing are enamel HU 35,49 & 135 dont know how good their acrylic equivalents are though.
    2 points
  33. WOW very interested thanks, That is such a wonderful photo I love seeing stuff like this, What I would give to go there having a look around there, It looks huge. I would love to know who the people are to the right and what they are doing. Thanks yes I like the look of the intakes. Pit Road got them a little wrong, the lower lip should sit further back and the whole aperture should have a slight taper to the wing root, Also the wing root is too fat and rounded but I can live with it and it looks pretty good. Thanks very Much John I have decided to do XL444 in 50 SQN markings. She had a g
    2 points
  34. Oki, so the Shangri La is finished (after i made the photos, i noticed i still did not add the tail wheel doors, but i did not want to re-make the photos after i added these..) I m quite happy how she turned out, the hasegawa canopy helped a bit i think. Hope you ll like her Here are some shots, more are in RFI http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965689-p-51b-shangri-la-revell-172/ some dust and oil work on the bottom side and the position and formation lights painted by gloss black base, then some silver dot to middle and overpainted with clear colours.
    2 points
  35. Sometimes you have to use the excuse handed to you on a platter.
    2 points
  36. That's kinda cool sah Well worth the hard work in protecting the details Speaking of which I has a few (45) to confide Wonder how to post them all now then, New thread? Update to Walkaround? Stick em on the Catalina thread wot has proper died out now? Anyway, a query or two answered Steve Undercart defintely painted and it looks to me to be High Speed Silver, but the bracing bars, (actuating levers?) painted LAG Wing leading edges painted LAG rubber with a yard brush. I reckon the colour is LAG but the crap surface has picked up dirt by the bucket load AS you can see from this pictu
    2 points
  37. "Son of a bitch" maybe Russ, but well worth the effort!
    2 points
  38. I'll tire of these supreme airplanes when Homer Simpson tires of Duff! Truly spectacular work all round; I can but dream of having such marvels in my own collection...
    2 points
  39. Nigel ™ Spreading the good word since 2012. All you need is a personal logo (if Dalek is under some trademark protection) and you're good to go...
    2 points
  40. I am still researching my rocket engine stand and when I did a Google search this thread was the first thing that popped up. You're famous g-usa and thanks for sending me all the information.
    2 points
  41. There is nothing terrible or undoable in rigging, as to me it's probably the most enjoyable part of biplane modelling. RIG IT!
    2 points
  42. Cheers Tom and more paint on now. The undercarriage lack so much in detail I have simply painted them all black so they blend in. Sadly I wish I noticed the oversize and wrong angled door fit on the front wheel, But it seems extremely strong this way, Probably designed that way as in its day this would have been seen more a toy than model. Dam good one though. I put the Canberra on a sheet of sand paper on a piece of glass to keep it true and very gently moved her back a few times and forward a few times whilst checking the look on bare glass, Then circular sanded her a few times to put flat
    2 points
  43. When I first looked at the ships in the harbour ,thought you had finished already ,closer look ,opps ,just my old eyes looking good
    2 points
  44. Just taken the masking off, good advise from Fritag, the black will need rework on its forward corners. So plan is to leave this until after the decaling. and satin coat, then a coat of matt black again rather than a clear matt coat. Nav lights are now much crisper, need to remember to remask these prior to the satin. Think attention now will turn to the undercarriage and flap bays.
    2 points
  45. Ah George I can't help noticing that yours is bigger than Nigel's. Can you show us all the bits still on the sprue so we can get an idea just how big it is please? Mekon, where is that wonderful place full of thingies and whotsits? Looks like it's worth a visit. Duncan B
    2 points
  46. Tricky Blighters these English chappies. The force is strong in this one!
    2 points
  47. Oh Gosh how the mighty have fallen - the wunderkit of the decade and now we are all uptight about the canopy. Remind me never to become a plastic kit manufacturer. All I can see is evidence that Airfix are rectifying the problem as fast as they can - pity some other manufacturers can't do the same.
    2 points
  48. Well it looks as rough as the dog nuts at the moment but it is just scraps of plastic after all. I have glued it all in place and when its stiffened I will get in there with little files and Mr surfacer. Cheers Rob
    2 points
  49. Thanks Sean yes its very old I think the kit was first issued in 1959 !. So its very good for then as its still very acceptable today. I done some more in the pit, Very rough I have never scratched anything for an interior before. Rob
    2 points
  50. Well its not like you can go wrong at this stage mostly bits still lol. I applied some Mr Surfacer 500 to the recessed roundel lines which after a few hours has shrunk back nicely, I shall put another coat on then get it flatted back with the mylar stick. I intend to the join the scribed lines to the same depth as given, Then go over all the panel lines with a coat of MrS500 to reduce the depth of the lines, Bit of an experiment but good practice for when I tackle some future builds with deep lines. Cheers Rob
    2 points
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