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Hello modeller, just finished my Ju 87 D equipped for night operations built OOB from the nice Italeri Kit. Just made few additons in the cockpit and cut flaps to put them in the lowered position. This particular one was based in Ravenna (Italy) in 1944. Painting scheme is interesting and funny. It is basically the traditional german splinter sprayed with random lines of sand yellow. Lower surfaces also have the same but instead of complicate lines there are large irregular bands. I used Italeri acrylics with airbrush, they work quite well and especially for german planes there is the full set of paints available. Comments and suggestions are always welcome. Cheers Andy

Here is a rather odd Lancaster! Sweden bought one ex-RAF Lanc in 1951 as a testbed for Swedish jet engines planned for Saab Lansen and Draken. This aircraft was designated Tp 80 and flew a great number of test flights 1951-56. However, the engine project was abandoned and instead, it was used for test of afterburners. Sadly, it was lost in a crash in 1956. I used Revell's model (Airfix' was not released when this project started) and a conversion set from Top Gun. I also added some details to the Merlin engine. The Top Gun set was far from good. Poor fitting and lots of small holes in the plastic. I used Tamiya Colours and Vallejo aluminium. Decals came from my own archive. Another oddity is the twin tail wheel, which also is placed behind the location of the original one. The underside of the original had to be strengthened because of the jet engine. The rest is OOB, apart from some invisible extra detailing in the wheel bays... I kept the weathering to a minimum, since this aircraft seemed to have been rather well maintained. A few years after the delivery, it was stripped from colour - but this scheme was more interesting than a simple bare metal finish. A last picture. I hope you like this rare-seen Lanc!

It never ceases to amaze me how such ignorance can be perpetuated, sorry Rob I don't mean to be rude but you need to actually do some proper research and reading about the moon landing and the Apollo programme - and I'm not taking stupid conspiracy sites who have no grasp of fundamental scientific principles. As for getting off the Moon they had a large enough engine to lift the ascent stage of the Lunar Excursion Vehicle back into lunar orbit, but most of the vehicle was left behind on the moon so they weren't carrying around excess baggage. The Moon's gravity is something like 1/6th that of Earth and that makes a tremendous difference. Escape velocity from the moon is 2.38 km/s but from Earth it is 11.2 km/s. The moon doesn't have "radiation levels" its not radioactive. There is cosmic background radiation and some from the sun. They did recieve higher dosage levels but they were wearing thick suits that blocked most of it. The levels were higher than in Earth orbit but the moon is still partially inside the Earth's Magnetosphere so that too has a mitigating factor. Check the cynicism in at the door - once upon a time the human race was able to actually achieve amazing things before the Health & Safety, lawyers and accountants crippled innovation.

This is the Fine Molds Bf 109 G-6, converted to a photo recon G-8, although some sources list it as a G-6/R2. I believe the weight of evidence favors the latter. The full build post can be seen on this site here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963625-bf-109-g-8-172-fine-molds/ About six years ago, I built the same aircraft in 1/48. Here is the current project with its big brother. Thanks for looking. Comments welcome.

I have to say that this kind of discussion saddens me. As Kallisti says, humans have achieved some amazing things, and Apollo was one of them. It requires a particularly cynical level of ignorance to dismiss the enormous level of documentation (film, photos, procedures, designs, tens of thousands of detailed technical reports, actual surviving hardware, etc) and to assert that "it didn't happen". I grew up with Apollo, saw two Saturn launches at the Cape and proceeded to study Aerospace Engineering. Following University, I moved to the USA where I worked on the Shuttle program: there I worked with many who had worked on Saturn and Apollo - much of the Shuttle was adapted Apollo-era technology and it is insulting to those who achieved astonishing results to dismiss their efforts and, in effect, to call them liars. Later I worked the Space Station and other programs and am currently Chief Engineer of a major space company. I say this not to brag, but to indicate that I know what I'm talking about, because I've done it for real. "Sgt Squarehead"'s responses are no more than empty words in a vacuum - every Apollo flight documented the crew EVAs to the maximum extent possible, given that there were only two men there and filming someone entering a suit and exiting the vehicle - something that took over an hour start-to-finish - was an unrealistic impossibility for a continuous take with the cameras of the era and the limited cabin volume. Did the Battle of Britain not happen, Sgt Squarehead, because you haven't seen a continuous single take of Spitfires taking-off, in combat and returning? The point about lunar density ("hollow") is simply ludicrous - the reason the Moon is less dense than the Earth is simply due to the Moon's lack of a nickel-iron core - the same reason it does not have a significant magnetic field. No geologist/selenologist holds the view you quote. If you want to check out all the Apollo video, may I recommend Spacecraft Films, who produce multiple DVD sets of all the available footage, from ground training & building to the flight footage - many hundreds of hours. I can do no more for the wilfully ignorant, except to leave the last word to Wernher von Braun, who responded to such an accusation thusly - "You don't fake a Saturn 5 launch". His expanded point was that it would have been more difficult & costly to fake it all, given that we developed all the flight hardware anyway - and it worked.

Hi folks,as the title suggests this machine was apparently based there in 1940,it only exists as a profile I have in an old issue of MAI.an earlier thread I started failed to bring forth anything about it,however our resident team of Hurricane experts did suggest that it,s serial would suggest a fabric winged model.I think it may have been used in calibration flights,I just loved the yellow undersides! Airfix,s lovely new tool kit used.many thanks for looking.

This is my only model in 1/48 wich was made couple years ago.

Airfix's new(ish) Harrier GR1: Straight from the box using the kit decals, and there are a lot!: Brush painted with Humbrol Enamels, Glosscote for decals, Mattecote for final finish: Nice simple easy build and decals went on no problem, just a touch of Decalfix needed for the roundels on the fuselage: I have the GR3, Sword T4, and a couple of Shars in the stash, hopefully they are as nice to build as this one, Thanks for your interest, Sean

Calling it done.

Hi Everyone, just managed to finish and photograph my latest build; Eduards weekend edition I-16 Which I finished in the kit markings to represent an aircraft of: Sinkiang Aviation Unit, Dihua airfield, China, 1941-42 Only additions to what came in the box was some seat belts and the undercarriage retraction cables Don`t know a lot about these so probably a few boo-boos but hopefully nothingserious. Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking. Cheers Russ

And fuselage stripes using Airfix decals. Various cutouts for the side codes - and they're farther back than for the other option. Just the yellow leading edges to do now.

Applied matt varnish, 95% completed. Bye...

Sonderkommando Blaich, Libya 1942 Communication and liason hack for He-111 sqn, adapted for desert use. Altho I could have quite rightly weathered the s*** out of this, I decided to be a bit more restrained, just adding wear to the leading edges and wing roots. 100_3712 by devilfish2014, on Flickr 100_3715 by devilfish2014, on Flickr 100_3714 by devilfish2014, on Flickr 100_3711 by devilfish2014, on Flickr

This is the old kit from Revell. I think all they did was put some new pieces in their PFM kit to make an MF. Detail is lacking, the cockpit is a mess and inaccurate with the molds and fit are not up to what you'd expect today. Rather than chuck it out I thought I'd just build it as is, for the detail sets would cost more than simply buying the rather nice Trumpeter kit. Mark was nice enough to send me a pilot from the Trumpeter kit and Tony some VPAF markings (thanks guys) and I scrounged some sidewinders from an old Revell F-4E kit to stand in for R3-S missiles as they were pretty much Russian made sidewinder copies anyway. I was meaning to represent red 5040, the MiG 21 nightfighter that allegedly shot down a B-52 during the 1972 Christmas bombings, but I mucked up the masks for the numbers several times and rage quit them, so I'm calling it done. Unfortunantly its a grey old day in Melbourne for taking pictures, as you can see.

Boeing 747-200 Thai International Revel 1:144 Been building this on & off for a couple of years now, and finally declared it finished today. It is the Revell E-4B boxing, with decals taken from the 747-200 Thai boxing, supplied by my good mate Mr Stringbag who will be doing the BA version at some point, so kindly let me have the Thai set. I had a problem in that I left the windows open to glaze them with Microscale krystal kleer later as all the windows were cut out on the cheatline decal. The problem was the holes didn't line up very well so progress was slow as I had to section the decal into inch long peices. It could still do with some silver window surrounds, but I haven't been able to locate a set for a 747. One day I will! Here we go; And the obligatoty 'with something else' picture. This time the smallest Boeing in service, the 737-500. Thanks for looking, John

When you see the prices those Skeeter kits go for on ebay I'd say I got a pretty good deal Great work on the bubble windows Bill. And I like what you've done with the seats. I've used that airwaves etch set before. It was one of my first experiences with etched metal after market stuff and I found it quite friendly for a novice albeit very fiddly. That was without all the fancy etch bending tools I have since purchased - I'm currently using Eduard's etch set for the Bell 47 - even with all the fancy tools I've found it a real challenge and it has tested my patience some what which is the polite way of saying its an absolute pain in the...

Not as often as I used to George, .. not as often as I used to

Yes, but the particular accusation about the particular case was incorrect, and if we're complaining about people making sweeping and inaccurate statements, I thought perhaps we shouldn't do the same. For the record, I'm sticking with the Monogram P-61, because I got two for a total of about $20 (not counting the one that's been in my stash forever, now out of reach in a storage unit) and I've always wanted to try swapping parts to make it "symmetrical"- I didn't like the mis-matched engines when I first got one! Based on what I've seen online, I do think Monogram got some shapes better (base of fins, cowling, for example) but while I do have a long history with Monogram kits, I also still remember some of the post-traumatic-stress suffered when it came time to deal with seams. Putty/sand/repeat is still my least favorite part of building! I also seem drawn to kits that people complain about because of "assembly challenges"- I guess I enjoy that aspect of building. But I also appreciate a kit that doesn't require the services of a drywall installer (oops, hyperbole creeping in, just for the fun of it!) At any rate, in this case (2-seat Cougar, remember?!) it's the only game in town, I like the "shape" (of the actual aircraft) and the wild color schemes possible, so I'll certainly give it a go. I don't think "parts fitting together" is too much to ask of modern tooling, though- if Tamiya (etc) can do it, then so can others. I can find enough challenges (I've always been one for modifying/converting) that I don't need extra ones as special bonus features! Ha, true enough for me! (Well, the latter- I don't drive anyone to release.) And if you think about it, if they're just going in the stash, the fit problems are irrelevant! I just hate having stash members made obsolete by newer, actually better kits while they're waiting for me to get on with it... bob

Nice joke, George, but that isn't what we're being expected to accept and endorse. The idea is that Hawker's buyer, even though he would have known that biplane production was due to end, still ordered far too much paint of the wrong type; in my stock control days, had I done that, I would have been sacked on the spot. We also have to consider that aircraft were not sent into the paint shop fully assembled, but usually had parts made in various shops (even separate factories,) then assembled, so we are expected to believe that various inspectors, and foremen (who would come equipped with shade cards) missed (or ignored) a succession of wrongly-painted components, plus (presumably sanctioned by management, thereby risking prosecution) several sprayers, confronted with factory drawings, on which the vocabulary numbers of the paint were annotated, totally ignored them and withdrew the wrong paint from the stores. As with all spraying, it depends on the surroundings; several Air Ministry inspections commented on the unsuitability of the buildings, and paint-to-thinners ratios always depend on the ambient temperature. When I was taught how to use an industrial spraygun, the sprayer took less than half a day to pass on his expertise.

The paint lifted in several spots. Plus, I do not like the mid green colour at all - way too yellow. I will mix the paints again and respray all yellow areas. The dark green colour is OK. The black green is slightly too black, but acceptable.

Thanks fellas, A little bit more progress today. The two masts have received a coat of paint, The masts have been put aside for now, so I started doing the fun bits - the stuff that goes whoosh bang! First up, the two Vertical Launcher Systems (VLS) I didn't realise until afterwards that the two systems are slightly different, the forward unit is inclined up at the rear. I assume this was done so that it sits level on the up swept foredeck? Close In Weapon Systems (CIWIS) I added two tiny ammo feed chutes (one to the front and back of each unit) using some scrap plastic and lead foil. The Harpoon ant-ship launchers I have also worked on the 5"/54 Cal gun turrets. I decided I wanted to have an access door open on each one so I cut out the door and scratched up an interior. I did use a couple of reference pics as a guide, but in this scale adding details is closer to microsurgery than modelling so the gun interiors are more 'representative' than factual! I still need to add the access doors. I made these up from some scrap brass, but i need to add a little detail to the inner doors before they can be painted. cheers, Pappy

Thanks KT, here is the rest of tonight's work. I must also thank g-usa for putting me on to the Flory washes, they are great products. I furckled out the bits of damp tissue I had used to mask the underside LEDs: I then installed the lenses using Gator glue: I also did an electrical test and by Jove they still worked!! I removed the liquid masking from the front lights and gave them a bit of the weathering treatment: They need soldering on of course but that is now a job for tomorrow. I glued all the claws and arms together and got them installed: I have realized that they are supposed to act as the landing legs and did look briefly at the option of posing this model on the ground. I think it could be done but would involve quite a bit of work remodelling the legs plus I think this model is best displayed in flying mode. It would be a good project for someone though - it never appeared landed in the films so it would be interesting to see. Finally, here is how the weathered engines look: I am going to selectively brush some areas on those with a semi-matt varnish as that is what I can see on the film prop. There is not much more to do and hopefully I should get this finished tomorrow. Then there is just the base to get sorted out. Bye for now, Nigel

Right. The last (I think) of the JP5's aerodynamic 'extras' are done. Slow work but nice to be playing with plastic card rather than PE. The remaining avionics aerials and beacons etc can wait until after its painted. A few flap/aileron/empanage operating levers to add and then construction is more or less done. This evenings aerodynamic extras were the little wotsits at the wing root/engine junction - just little lengths of slightly curved plastic card fixed with dots of cyano and then some plastic weld. Bit fiddly - lots of measuring and marking. And the flat blade type oojemythings under the engine. Again little strips of plastic card. I measurd, marked and scribed location 'trenches' into the bottom of the engine inlets and used plastic weld to glue them in: And the whole set. Not difficult - but satisfying: Oh - and the poor relation JP3 has had its windscreen faired in with Mr S. So far I remain a fan of micromeshing Mr S rather than wiping it off (I promise to practice though Keef ) Steve

Well, got the MSG on today using HU165 - some of the pre-shading comes through and I dropped a white drop in and done some tinting for the first time.....not sure if its the fluorescent light, but it looks a bit 'blue'?? Well, next th DSG on bacon slicers, BOL's etc and all the little painting before some Klear: any comments welcome, especially on the colour!!

My wife's out of town this week, and I'm finding myself weirdly sentimental. Apparently the third year of marriage is ranked by many couples as the best, and I believe it; mine has been amazing, and I've endured a deadly dull and tiresome job mainly because I know I'll get to come home to Mrs. Procopius and a fat little hedgehog. Suddenly country music has a strange appeal. It's a terrible thing to become middle-aged in the American heartland. At any rate, lots more progress on my sky-hedgies: alcladded the blast deflectors or whatever they are behind the after nozzles, although I'm not very impressed with the results. Got the little nose and amidships clear bits tinted and added on. I'm going to clear coat them soon and then decals, the fun bit! Then the nozzles and landing gear. Also, here's me and Mrs. P; as you can see, I got the better end of the deal:

Thanks Iain and Styx for your encoragement. Have got the bird to the "Difficult to handle stage " where everything takes longer and i have to be careful not to put my thumb in the fuselage and dislodge everything. engines now attached . I have used my own blend of zinc chromate made from exotic ingredients found\ in my paint collection . It is maybe a little too much on the yellow side but makes a nice contrast against the greens . A good covering of grey primer has been applied to help prevent any paint lift due to all the masking to be done and some Tamiya white airbrushed on and masked with tamiya tape the reason the air intakes have not been primed is that i forgot to attach them . Lucky i realised at this stage. Now to figure out the rest of the painting sequence.

Completed basic painting, we will apply the gloss cote varnish, but before photos ... Bye...

G'day Jockster, I will no doubt bog down when I get to the finer details a little later on. Meanwhile, progress continues! I have assembled the bridge superstructure and installed the main decking The fit was surprisingly good. I say surprisingly because a lot of other builds seem to have fit issues at this point. I did need a little filler to fair in the bridge superstructure into the hull sides, but it did not seem excessive. I also added this spacer to the deck. I needed it as it will push out the side of the aft superstructure section which tends to pull in without some form of support. I now turned my attention to the two mast structures. The aft mast in particular had heavy flash and took along time to clean up. I ended up replacing the upper support arms with some plastic rod, mainly because I hate cleaning up mould lines on round sections, but it is also slightly finer than the kit parts. I decided to scratch the support frame for the foremast as I really did not wish to repeat the laborious task of cleaning up all the mould seams again. Apart from seeming to be an easier method, it also afforded an excellent opportunity to clean up the join seam on the triangular structure at the base. cheers, Pappy

G'day people, Well, I am still in a nautical mood so this will be the next one I will be working on. The kit has been re-boxed by Italeri but it is the Dragon/DML kit which has been superceded by the Trumpeter offering, but the kit can still be built into a respectable replica from the box, and with a little extra help can still be made into something nice. Dragon released several boxings of the Ticonderoga class ships, representing various versions of both early and later variants. The USS Gettysburg represents a later version with the Vertical Launcher System (VLS) replacing the missile launchers fore and aft of the earlier ships. If you want to make the moist recent versions of the class however, you will need to do some research as there have been several additions and changes to the ship's weapons and sensor suite. The kit however is known to suffer from fit issues and the fit can vary between to okay and it fits where it touches. I have made a start by assembling the hull halves. The fit was not too bad along the centre but there were several sink marks along the top of the bow and above the sonar dome. I spent some time smoothing this area in with putty. The lower rear hull area needed a little more attention I do not like the prop shaft detail, it is a little soft and my parts were a little warped. I will probably replace these with some plastic or ally tube. Coming to the stern, I managed to sand off the detail here trying to eliminate the join seam. The white plastic lump in the corner is the start of the SLQ-25 "Nixie" torpedo decoy system, cheers, Pappy

Hello again with another one of my planes. I did this to see if I could follow an Alan W Hall article in the April, 1966 Airfix Magazine, converting the Airfix Ki 46-II to a Ki 46-III, the long canopy version. (As older readers may recall, Mr. Hall was an advocate of the "balsa and dope" school of conversion, in the days before resin and vac conversion kits. It's impossible to judge the results now because of the blurry and rather dim photos normally seen in Airfix magazine of this period...). Well, the scale drawings in Airfix Magazine April 1966 were quite useful! I moulded a new canopy using the old technique of male/female balsa mould, PVC sheet (I had nothing else that wouldn't tear) and some gas. It took a few tries. Using photo reference found on the all too modern Internet I built a new interior and remodelled the nose, engine cowlings and spinners. I also remodelled the tail ends of the nacelles as per the article, although I used sprue as a basis rather than just dobs of putty as suggested. (And there were no rivets..). The canopy you can see here is not a very good fit but I wasn't going to light the gas to do another one after several tries! The model was brush painted, which is unusual for me. The decals were adapted from the kit's plus some Hasegawa items from a Zero. They have silvered a bit. However, I think as an "old school" conversion it was quite a useful exercise. And I didn't touch that dope! The stuff they did in the '60's... PL

EE Lightning F.3 XP751/B 74 (Tiger) Sqn Meherebad Air Base Imperial Iranian Air Force Day 17th October 1965 .... and finally a picture of the 74 Lightning collection. Got the 3 types of single seater operated by the sqn as well as the 3 different types of makings and schemes. No black tail, black tail and spine and then just the black tail.

Hi Folks! Finally I've finished something. The kit is superb Tamiya's Zeke 32. Building was pure pleasure. The only problem was narrow gap between fuselage and lower wing. But with a llitle help from Evergreen I fixed it. I painted her with Gunze C, Gunze H, Tamiya and Vallejo paints. Hope you like it. Cheers!

Good work on replacing the 2D etch with proper 3D round section stuff. A great improvement me thinks.

That's nice work so far Moggy. You need to rescue it from the shelf of doom (says the man with a whole room full of part built models Luis Thank You for the Aconcagua instructions and the Humbrol recommendations for the paint! It looks very good I may need to buy another one now!

Hi folks, a bit more progress today, got a couple of coats of earth on the upper surfaces then after all the panels were over painted in a much darker brown a couple of thinned coats of the earth again,because of the size of the B****y thing I have to take photo,s from a fair distance so the second photo does not show do the shading very well but it looks better than the plain earth,these lines are mostly recessed so I will apply a wash as well. She has tonight had her under carriage super glued in place so leaving it well alone to bond.

Now that it's cooler...................................... Paint is on and needs the odd touch up here and there. Didn't think you needed to see it masked up........we all know what a masked up aircraft looks like don't we ????? The paint used is Xtra Colour enamel. However the demarcation between the brown and the green needs a little attention with micro mesh to remove the ridges. After that decal time Keep the comments coming even if it's only one upmanship on how hot is hot More soon

Rob, I'm still getting to grip with it too. I started by using it straight from the bottle and applying it with a micro brush. But that was expensive as I had to throw the brush away afterwards - and I found Mr S to be a bit too thick and a bit too quick drying to be manageable. So I bought some Mr Colour Levelling Thinner (at Huddersfield earlier in the year IIRC) and since then I've been experimenting with thinning Mr S 1000 a little and applying it with a fine brush (0 or 1). I've found it much easier to control this way. It has to be built up in a few more layers but it's still very quick drying so it doesn't really matter. Also I can clean the brush after and re-use it! It is a lovely clear moulding isn't it. The JP3 is the first resin kit I've built so I've nothing to compare it too - but CMR seem to have done a cracking job throughout. Been a bit of a challenge - what with resin being so soft and easily damaged and all. And it's made me realise what wonderful things injection moulded plastic and liquid poly cement are. Still - live and learn eh....

Looks very good Nigel. To maybe get a happy compromise with Sarge's request, perhaps in areas where it looks like there might be oil leakage you might try a light wash of Tamiya Smoke. This would give a similar finish as Flory Black or Dark Dirt, but with a gloss finish. The Flory washes typically create a dull finish. The Smoke wash would have a wet finish like fresh lubricant stains. Just a thought. The kit looks smashing though.

Duncan, it certainly not my desire to be a mojo killer. Your 109s are inspiring and I'd love to see more of them. But thank you for the compliment. I'm calling this 109 done. The final steps went relatively smoothly. The antenna worked of the first attempt; often I'll melt through four or five of them trying to tighten the stretched sprue with a blown-out match. Here are the final photos of the construction phase, I'll post more in the completed models section. My thanks to everyone who has posted comments along the way. They were very encouraging and appreciated.

Cheers AngstROM, nightnmare trying to work out when to stop ! Hey Pete, Epic you are right there. As one of my daughters pointed out, developers build 10 new houses in our street quicker than I built this !! I have soem crew ready and waiting, Industria Vechanika's 'Deck Hands' and 'Waldo Captain', just have to clean them up a little and start painting. Next I have Im's new Hopper to crack on with and I am thinking of turning Bronco's 1/35 Type XXIII submarine into a Remora style landing craft Thanks for dropping by. Chris,

Lovely jubbley Steve That screen is just crying out for A masking off with Tamiya's tape Protect it before the micromesh gets near Job's a good 'un I love the detailey bits, exactly how I like to work It doesn't even matter to me (any more ) if folks don't notice it They probably miss seeing this stuff because it ISN'T out of place

Starting to tidy up round the edges of the flight deck now - the port quarter is a different shape in Ark from the other two hulls, so I've had to remodel the spurn water / flight deck loop housing; this now looks a lot neater (the white bit is replacement deck edge etc., and by the look of it I might need to extend it for'd a little): Also getting ready to fit the cat walks, which are much smaller than the Lusty ones modelled by Airfix. Top marks to WEM for including them, which has saved me loads of scratch work. For now I am at least getting them fettled and ready; they might not be fitted for a while. Only gravity holding this one in place, but it is beginning to fit nicely. Steady, but pleasing progress.

I thought I would finally turn my attention to the pit. This is very basic but who's gonna see anything at this scale. They have made an effort though with yolks too. I think I was being a bit over ambitious thinking about detailing the insides on this one so I am just going to paint it anthracite and call it job done. Unless anyone has any suggestions. Its looking like it might actually prove to be a reasonably quick build (curse of doom or what) All I have to do is bug these and the front wheel well in, Then add some weight and button her up. Rob

More progress to report. The canopy is a Rob Taurus vac, and I must say that these are the best vacformed canopies on the market, crystal clear and well defined. The frames were made from clear decal sheet, the interior pieces sprayed RLM66, while the exterior were painted RLM 66 first, then the exterior color, RLM74. There are riveted strips on the lower sides. these were made by embossing .005" plastic strip. They were then reversed so the "rivets" are on the exterior. Then a coat of RLM 66 and some heavy drybrushing with light gray does the trick. The canopy also has the locking handle, made from stretched sprue. This will be the last part added to the model, the canopy restraining cord. Both the cord and spring were made from very fine wire. I always make a spare n the event of a mishap. At this point a lot of little doodads have been attached, including the drop tank, aileron balances, loop antenna and radiator & oil cooler tubes. In this final photo, the slats are in place. I made their braces from strips of an aluminum pie tin. This was very stiff, but still could be bent if needed. Also, the canopy is trussed up in a propose made brace while the white glue sets up. Just a few more steps to go.

After a short hiatus in production I’m back to it! Time to start some re-scribing by way of a change, HP have had to compromise with the detailing on the Canberra to facilitate as many marks as they can from the one mould, a very sensible approach, but this means that the modeller needs to be aware of the differences between the Mk’s, not and easy task with the Canberra! The wings have been produced to represent the wet wing as used on the GAF Mk.20 again being an Australian company a good choice, but like the Airfix wing not so good if you want to make a bog standard B.2. The first photo shows the wing as it comes with the two tank filler caps the underside should be a mirror of the top but with out the filler caps as you can see they are not quite the same. The second photo shows the detail applicable to the B.2 wing. The keen eyed amongst you may have spotted a small amount a flash that will also need to be addressed! John

So everyone, after a little research and discussion its on with the build. So Cockpit and rear gunner area complete. I'm no professional so i'm happy with the results, instrument dial decals and etch belts and this is looking ok, ish

Right now, need some advice. I have a piece of PE for the airbrake and I can't figure out where it's supposed to go! I have checked as many posts here as possible, unless I've missed it I can't find a clear picture of the real thing or an example of someone using the airwaves set and where they attached it!! Is it to be attached after the chaff dispensers on the end or set back into the fuselage? Instructions indicate the end but it's a rectangular shape and not curved, there is a different piece which is rounded for 208 Squadron, but I'm doing 12 Squadron..... Maybe this dry fitting picture may help because it will effect whether I attach the airbrake now or later as currently I can just about wriggle it in without this piece attached. Think I'll add it to the end and sand down the plastic as I'll never get her completed! Other news..... When I glue the fuselage together I'm going to need to stand on the port wing whilst it dries.... Added some pipe work to the landing gear, they're a rough interpretation from some ref photos.... Thanks for looking.....

Hi everyone! This is my next model from my "corrugate serie"))).

Help please Just noticed that one of my decals on the underside has a few (what seem to be) air bubbles appearing this morning!! Why do they never go right for me. Can I just pierce them with a pin, put some water on and flatten it. Any tips would help. Thanks Simon

Worked on the overhead console. Its a match to the real thing. Working on frame around the controls Oliver