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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/07/14 in all areas

  1. Hi Folks Every collection should have one, and I thought I'd share my attempt with you. Having read the various threads on here re fuselage colours and shades I hope I can get away with my mix which used a bit of chromate yellow to match Hendon's example: Regards J A
    19 points
  2. Dear All, Thanks for the positive comments about the Sunderland Flying boat. They were very encouraging for a newbie like myself. Below are a few images of my last effort to build the Revell 1/72 scale Supermarine Stranraer which is a strange and ugly looking beast when you consider that it was designed by the same person who designed the beautiful Spitfire. It was not popular with the pilots who flew it hence a nasty nickname which was the "Whistling PoopHouse" except not using the word poop but the one which starts SH and ends in T. I got my wrists slapped for using the historically accurate word. I didn't realize Britmodeller was so "Prim". The Revell offering is a reboxing of the 40 year old Matchbox kit which I would never have touched with a bargepole had my wife not bought it for me from Marionville Models in Edinburgh as a present. However, on looking at its ungainly proportions I was hooked. Indeed, I spent more time, and had more fun with this kit than any I care to remember! The detail was non existent so I had to scribe 90% of the panel lines from a blueprint I got on line. I also used a rivet wheel (trumpeter) for the first time hence why some of the rivetting has gone squint. In addition, because of the amount of rigging I set about making attachment points out of some copper wire and gluing them into holes drilled at the base of each spar. This made rigging the beast with easyline much much easier. I did the same prop effect as on the Sunderland before and also installed some resin CMK Pegasus engins to replace the kit engines which were utterly lacking in detail. Weathering may be a bit heavy but I reckon the long range trips made in bad weather would not have kept these beauties pretty for long. Critically, I have included crew and I'm keeping my eyes out for any further alien incursions! Thanks to my wife, Rhona for buying the beast and my daughter Leacsaidh for the photos.
    16 points
  3. Kit & Decals: Hasegawa (LK102) Scale: 1:144 Hi fellas, Here's a model I finished recently of one of the YS-11T anti-submarine training aircraft of the 205th Kokutai TSQ J.M.S.D.F. stationed at Shimousa. The aircraft was used to hone the submarine finding skills of J.M.S.D.F. personnel. Thanks for looking! Vinny
    10 points
  4. Kit: Revell (04261) Decals: Rib-Hobby Scale: 1:144 Hey guys, This is my latest addition to the shelf. It's the Revell (Zvezda) B.787-8 Dreamliner done up in the China Southern special scheme. Great kit, that went together really well. Decals are by Rib-Hobby. It was my first time using this manufacturer and they're very thick but good to work with. Happy Modelling! Vinny
    10 points
  5. My 1/350 scale scratch-build of the new Royal Navy aircraft carrier, HMS Queen Elizabeth, currently building in Rosyth Dockyard. The model was built for the Royal Navy and will be on display at the naming ceremony on Friday, 4th July: This picture gives you a good idea of the size of this build! Outside the building are the bows of the real thing: And here are the bows of the real thing with a 1:1 model of an F-35B on the ski-jump, all spruced up and ready for HM the Queen to name this Friday, 4th July: Dave
    9 points
  6. I was doing an RNZAF Mustang for an Aus/NZ GB, but couldn't decide which of the four squadrons to depict, so did all of them! The kits are all Airfix, 3 F-51s and a P-51 and the decals are by Ventura. NZ2413 is the odd one out from the P-51 box, as it was the only RNZAF Mustang to use the cuffed propellor, and the only one of the four in a painted HSS rather than factory painted/NMF finish (the models are a bit shinier/more distinctive than in the photos). These aircraft were operated by the RNZAF Territorials in the early 1950's and very well looked after, hence little to no weathering, with the checks being the provincial colours of each squadron. 1 Squadron (Auckland) 2 Squadron (Wellington) 3 Squadron (Canterbury) 4 Squadron (Otago) Thanks for looking
    9 points
  7. A couple more of my older builds. I think I did these back in the 80s! First up: Above: The Monogram T-6. I still rate this kit as the better of the 48th ones around. This one depicts a 4th FG hack. I came across a good photo or two of this one in a book by Glen Fry title 1000 Destroyed and a couple other books on the Debden Eagles. I was attracted by the unusual location of the serial number! Decals from various generic sources. Then there is this: The cute Piper L-4 Cub or Grasshopper what ever takes your fancy is the 1/50th Heller kit and Propagteam decals depicting the 91st Bomb Group(I think) 'hack'. Yes, I know the 'sackcloth ' fabric efffect is a bit 'heavy' but I couldn't think of a suitable way of reducing it that wasn't laborious so I decided to leave it. And, continuing with the 'silver paint' theme: The Grumman above was done at the time the kit was released and as a review model for SAMI. MORE later!!!
    6 points
  8. Here is the very detailed but tricky shortish run Multi media kit from AZ with a wing fold set from Airwaves, and number of correction sets - spinner and prop blades, cannon barrels and main wheel along with a Vac formed Canopy from Barracudacast. Decals were kindly donated to me and were spares from a Grand Phoenix Firefly, and rocket rails came from the spares box courtesy of a Tamiya Mosquito with the blast plates coming from the same place, this time ex Tamiya Beaufighter. I fashioned the clear wingtip nav lights from Super Glue and the leading edge landing light was scratch built with the cover coming courtesy of a spare from a CA Fairey Battle. The wingfold tie rods are from stainless steel pins. The decals came from an original Grand Phoenix boxing of the kit kindly donated to me by a fellow modeller. As usual it is finished in Acrylics, using Xtracrylix for the Sky and Dark Slate Grey, with Gunze providing the Extra Dark Sea Grey. Flory models washes we used along with Tamiya Weathering pigments and Tamiya Smoke for the weathering. Tamiya Xf-86 Flat Clear sealed it all in. And on to the pix, hope you enjoy them. Thanks for looking.
    5 points
  9. Yet another one off the bench ( it's been a month of finishing models that were almost there). This is a Staghound made by Bronco. A great little kit that is parts heavy... fantastic value for £20. Wing mirrors were a real faff. Recommended (and that coming from an aircraft modeller) Weathering is done to a minimum (I'm not that good at weathering). Hope you like. Please feel free to comment or give words of advice. Thanks for looking. Dick
    4 points
  10. We get so spoiled watching your builds, seeing the pictures, that we are convinced you are building a huge kit enabling you to do the detail that you do. This picture puts things into a shocking perception of just how small a kit this is and the size of the components that you are adding detail too. (Or you have hired Gigantes to make us more impressed with your abilities!) A most amazing build. Thank you.
    4 points
  11. Starting to look a bit like a plan now its got sum of its colour on it.
    4 points
  12. The wheels are not in a happy place. The masking edge is quite ragged in places plus some paint bleed here and there: The only course is a hard slog of hand retouching. The task is not helped by the tyre black paint which I had to add some cellulose thinners to get it to re-emulsify and is now quite hot and readily redissolves the yellow enamel. After a few rounds I got them to this: Not brilliant but perhaps with some weathering will be acceptable. They need another coat of Klear before weathering but I will leave that until tomorrow. I started to install the Jerry cans, letting each one dry before securing the next. Then somehow the door mirror got bent: Still it did not break; the metal gods are kinder to me than the plastic gods, but now it is very fragile. I applied more superglue and eased it back into position as well as finishing off the Jerry cans: I compared my new chain to the best stuff I had in storage: Quite a difference but I had an idea that I could use one of the big links as a bridge between the tow rope and the new chain. That proved to be hopeless as the wire diameter was just too big so I joined them with some fine copper wire: With that done I added some superglue and painted the join with anthracite: I was then able to drape and wrap the chain in a naturalistic way: I locked it in place with some diluted Gator glue. It should look all right when its dried. I think I have now pretty much run out of jobs for tonight so its bye from me, Nigel
    4 points
  13. I reckon it would still take me months to finish....
    4 points
  14. Its been a while, 3 moves in 6 months to 3 different countries and ultimately halfway around the world together with retirement, a new career, small daughter and a degree means that time has been tight. Anyway, after finally getting some modelling space and my workdesk, sundries and tools etc unpacked the first kit to hand is the lovely Academy F-4B Phantom in 1:48. I spent quite a bit of time on the Aires cockpit dry fitting, fettling and thinning to get it to fit. It is originally designed for the Hasegawa kits and as such is as much of a drama to get it to fit in this one as well. Their instructions are useless and are beyond vague when it comes to what to remove. You can get it to fit with some creative thinking, especially when it comes to squeezing the nose gear bay in (more on that later). So, cockpit finished, painted and matted down, next step is getting it into the fuselage.
    3 points
  15. I built this to go with my Flying Banana and will eventually form part of a refuelling diorama. It is the first vehicle kit I have build since I was a teenager and was a lot of fun. It is mainly based on the Airfix kit but with the fuel tanker bed and tanks taken from the Hasegawa kit. I have used resin Jerry cans and an oil drum from a WWII set from CMK. The era is intended to be the late 1950's in Japan where they are still using a lot of converted American WWII equipment: It is very sunny in Aberdeen today, good for photos but near impossible to see what you are taking so please excuse the odd camera shadow. It looks like there is a spot on the camera lens as well: I hope you like it. Here is the WIP. Now I just have to build the fuel pump that it will be towing. Nigel
    3 points
  16. This is my newest model - the mighty Super Sabre in SEA camouflage. For this model I used: - Trumpeter's F-100D Thunderbirds - Aires' wheel bays - Aires' engine exhaust - Aires' wheels - Aires' airbrake - Eduard's PE interior, exterior, undercarriage (partly, of course) - QuickBoost refueling probe - Master's Pitot tube - during work I have destroyed my canopy, so I used Crystal Clear Squadron's vacu - nuclear bomb Mk28RE of Belcher Bits (with special decals prepared for this weapon) - Caracal Models' decals - Two Bobs decals for AIM-9B. For the first time I used some Aires resins, with many problems, unfortunatelly... I had serious problems with heating effect on the rear part of fuselage (it is not excatly what I wanted to gain...). I know that weapon set is not so real, but I wanted to add something very special to this jet. Ok, this is this, I hope you like it.
    3 points
  17. Lockheed P-38J-5-LO, 42-67291, “Haleakala”, 459th FS, 80th FG, USAAF, Chittagong, India, 1944 Pilot: Lt. H.H. Sealy 1/72 model built using parts of Hasegawa and Dragon kits (done before the Academy kit became available) with some scratch building/reshaping. The only correctly shaped drop tanks I could find were borrowed from the Frog/Novo kit. Detail sets ( used completely or partially): Aires P-38J/L cockpit set, Eduard P-38J/L detail set, Squadron P-38 F(due to the early style windscreen on J-5) vacu canopy Decals: Aeromaster (all individual a/c markings were inaccurate and had to be corrected or replaced) Dragon/Italeri kit decals, Travers, Revell (P-51B) - for technical markings
    3 points
  18. Hello all Just finished the Hobby Boss 1/32 F-84G I've become something of a kit snob lately, building only Tamiya or Wingnut Wings.. But picked up this on the spur of the moment at the Hendon model show for £25 thinking I'd regret it, but.. The kit is a beauty! Excellent fit, beautiful metal undercarriage as an option to the plastic parts, lovely rubber tires (which I know aren't to everyone's taste but they look great to me) & very fine surface detail - an absolute pleasure to build. Minor minus points for the decals which looked a little patchy to my eye, but to be fair I didn't use them & some detail could be added to the interior, but again, easily fixed these days.. Extras: *Eduard Big Ed set - completely transforms the detail levels - well worth it, but not cheap at £37 *Quickboost resin seat - beautiful! *Zotz decal set - nice, but in the end I decided to mask and spray the markings copying from a period colour photograph - but I used the stencil decals and national insignia *Montex masks F-84 set - I just used the USAF & aircraft serial numbers *Alclad finish - various shades *Lots of Tamiya tape! I can honestly say it's been the most enjoyable build I've ever done - and considering I've recently built the Tamiya 1/32 Spit & Mustang, that's surprised me! Not without the usual cock ups though.. Self induced of course.. The primary one was experimenting with the Vallejo black primer - sold as being super tough - but it wasn't - sprayed nicely - looked great - flaked off with masking I was on the verge of binning the whole thing, but I'd spent so long on the interior - I ended up buying another whole kit - which I could now only find for £38! B*#%+*#.... Oh well, you live & learn... Thanks for looking... Cheers Guy
    3 points
  19. Cheers Greg, here,s the fully weathered vehicle just the tracks( one will be hanging off) to add and a couple of very minor items to drop in the interior after it,s on the base. Apologies to the purists about the vehicle plates and numbers but they are all I,ve got!
    3 points
  20. At our local farmers market a guy has started selling lazer cut models. My sister-in-law bought me the item below. It's cut form 3mm MDF, neat hey? I built it in under two minutes. It comes with instructions too, do you think I used them daaaa! Now all I have to do is decide on a colour scheme... Colin, Tongue firmly in cheek...
    3 points
  21. I had the idea of taking a couple of shots with my Flying Banana: It should be quite a colourful set up. I will try to order the diorama base tomorrow.
    3 points
  22. Immediately after completing the rather gorgeous Airfix Lightning, I dug out another offering fromEnglish Electric. Having been released a few years back, I had great expectations from this kit, especially given Airfix's current standards, and the fact I last built a Canberra about 20 years ago (Matchbox). However, this took some work. The panel lines were quite up there with Matchbox (I'm sure I heard whistles and cries of "over the top") and I filled most of them to tone it down a tad. The fit was generally good with the odd bit of filler here and there. I blended the windscreen in a bit more though, and replaced the nose probe with some fuse wire. The small windows were filled with Glue n Glaze, the aerial was monofilament and I gave the thing a coat of Xtracolor High Speed Silver. Weathering was small, just some scuff marks, staining etc. the decals were ok but blimey they were thick!!i should have used an aftermarket set for the same airframe but three weeks in I just wanted the thing finished! Next time I'll just camouflage the damn thing, be a lot easier
    3 points
  23. Hmmm,not overly struck on how it looks but better than hand mottling the camouflage,still a bit of blending in to do and once decalled it should be OK. three attempts to get it here this being the best of three,Thanks for looking in.
    3 points
  24. After adding a couple more bulkheads and filling the nose with lead shot, I roughly filled it with Milliput..... A few sessions of filling and sanding - and the basic shape is established.... .... more filling and sanding needed yet - but its getting there... After casting around for a suitable diameter tube to make the intakes, I resorted to butchering a 1/700 scale submarine..... Suitable sanded to shape at the front end, they will do nicely.... .... once blended in with filler... The nose shape needs a bit more fettling - but its coming together.... Ken
    3 points
  25. Ooh, and now we're getting close! The upper bays (Port & Starboard, both with a Gemini RIB in them) are now built: Note PE davit on the left as we look. Then I noticed that the carpet monster had eaten the lid of one of those two bays, so I had to make a new one: But now I am tantalisingly close to being able to glue the flight deck in place, which will be a serious rite of passage: I need to do an hour or so of sanding to get the right levels etc on the fo'c's'le, and then the clamps and the tape and the plastic weld and the general glue-fest will commence... By the end of the weekend we might have two pieces of Ark Royal, where up to now I've been working with three... P.S. Phildagreek: you can see in the pic above how the sides of the hull "wobble" - look, for instance, at the starboard side of the ship just abreast of the for'd lift well, where there is a distinctly visible bend outwards. That is what is responsible for most of the gaps & holes
    3 points
  26. I finished this yesterday, I have been wanting to build one of these for an age but scarcity means that they don't come up for sale often and when they do they tend to be a bit pricey (especially if you add the expense of the Dutch Decals Neutrality Markings - the orange triangles - which do not come with the kit). The model represents no.328 flown in May 1940 by Sgt. H Soufree with his gunner Sgt. de Man of 3 Ja.V.A in which he claimed an He 111 and a Bf 109 in the fighting over the Netherlands. I added some Airfix pilots as crew and a pitot tube from the spares box, and I replaced the protruding nose gun barrels with resin ones as those provided were a bit chunky, apart from that it is I think oob. As always I could have done it better if I had paid more attention and had more patience but I didn't and I haven't and for a limited-run kit it was pretty forgiving and I have at least, at last, built one. Decals as mentioned were from the Dutch Decals set DDS9072, paints were Humbrol 64 Light Grey for the interior, 168 Beige, 180 Red-brown and 244 Dark Green for the camouflage scheme. Cheers, Stew
    2 points
  27. Hello, I've just recently finished this poor detailed and annoying kit. It comes with a brilliant set of decals thou. On the model, there are 157 all together. Three days of work just on decals:) Anyways, there it is: Thanks for any opinions. Bart.
    2 points
  28. Hiya Folks, I`ve finished a few more models today and this is one from the shelf of doom which has been waiting to be finished off for over a year! It is the 1/72nd scale Hasegawa Beaufighter converted into an earlier straight tail Mk.Ic of 252 Sqn in Egypt using the tail parts from an old Frog Beau kit. The yellow lower tail surfaces were a recognition marking added to Beau`s in the desert to help distinguish them from the Ju 88 to the troops on the ground.; [/url] Brush painted using Aeromaster acrylics (Thanks Andy!) and the decals were from the spares box to try and replicate a photo of the real T9489 which was written off after swinging on take off from Idku, Egypt on 6th June 1942,...using a photo on page 76 of a recent Flypast Special on the Beaufighter as reference, Cheers Tony
    2 points
  29. This P-36 is the new Academy re-release of the relatively old Hobbycraft kit. This kit has pretty good moulding and recessed panel lines, but it is pretty rudimental in cockpit and engine/engine cowling area. The plastic is molded in light grey with nice and clear transparent parts. The overall fit of the kit is good considering that this is pretty old mould. Some filler is required here and there. I was very surprised with good fit of wing/fuselage parts. The worst part of the kit is engine/engine cowling/armament area. Details are very bad and some surgery is required to match the references I could find. Engine is easy available - just take a look what Quickboost has to offer, but cowling and armament bulges has to be modified. I added some wires to the engine. Looks good enough for me. I decided to cover most of the cockpit area with pilot figure so I’ve used Eduard zoom set which is great because it contains some crucial exterior parts. Clear parts are tricky to install. They have to be glued with “non fogging” glue. I had Eduard masks, but they are incorrect for these parts. Markings are the main reason why I’ve decided to build this model. I was always fascinated with the story about Phil Rasmussen and attack on Pearl Harbour. When I saw this boxart, I knew this would be my next build. Decals in this box are from Cartograf, and that means that they are great. Colors used are ALCLAD II Figures are from the various Hasegawa sets - heavily modified. I tried to make a scene when Phil is enetering this plane in his pajama, and ground crew is looking for cover after they prepared his plane for the flight. Enjoy
    2 points
  30. Fairchild Aviation Corporation Type 91 mod. A 942-A c/n 9401, NC-14743 "VIRGEN DE CHAMORRO" Spain February 1938
    2 points
  31. Yes Pat, the best tip is to get him to read both of Foxys builds, really inspirational! It'll keep him interested!
    2 points
  32. Just a very small update, unfortunately I have not been getting too much time for modelling over the last couple of weeks as work has been getting the way as well as this beutiful weather that we have been having here in Wiltshire resulting in lots of family time. I installed the railings rond the entire hull now from the MK1 PE set as well as cut numerous parts off of sprues, cleaned up and dry fitted as can be seen in the 2 photos. I just need to prime the railings then the hull is ready for its paint, after which I will attache the wooden deck then put away in a box while I concentrate on the rest. Thanks for looking
    2 points
  33. This particular kit (which, to be fair, was relaxed around the time they were acquired by Hornby, I think) is notorious for warping of the hull parts. Some kits (not mine, I am happy to say) also have significant bends on the island as well. No doubt I haven't helped mine by hacking great chunks out of it and rebuilding it in a different shape, but even OOB it's a bit of a pig. Mine is worse because I am building it as a waterline model; the hull bottom section make s a big difference to holding the sides of the ship in the right place. Mind you, so does the hangar stuff; I shudder to think what this thing would be like without the innards! 1/350 Queen Liz? That would be about 3 feet long! Let's do it! If the FAA ever get Ospreys, however, I will eat my bonedome.
    2 points
  34. Finished, as far as I'm concerned. Another one into the display case.
    2 points
  35. Javelin FAW.9/9R Update Sets (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Airfix's Javelin was awaited for what seemed like an eternity, but it was worth the wait, as it is a great model of an interesting subject that had been neglected at this scale for a long time after Dynavector's admittedly excellent vacform model. Those that either didn't have one of those or were put off by the word "vacform" can now satiate their need in injection moulded styrene. Eduard have produced a number of sets to improve the cockpit, gear bays and air brakes to add the extra detail some of us crave using Photo-Etch (PE) metal. Interior (49667) Although not strictly limited to improving the cockpit, the majority of the parts are used there, so that's what we'll call it. The Javelin wasn't known for its open and spacious cockpit, but this set details the most visible aspects of it, starting with the seats, which get a set of belts, leg restraints and pull handles on the seat and headbox. The instrument panels are all replaced by laminated PE parts that are pre-painted and self-adhesive. Some console side detail is also added, and the canopy is provided with a wind-screen wiper and edge detail to each section, as well as some rail detail on the aft section and a grab handle on the outside of the canopy, replacing the plastic "lump" that was there previously. The intakes are supplied with FOD blanks, as are the exhausts, which also have a 2-part skin rolled and then wrapped around the exhaust, with holes cut out for rectangular projections top and bottom. Now comes the fiddly bit! You get a large number of small vortex generator parts in this set, which need to be folded to an L-shaped profile and glued in place of those moulded into the upper wing in three rows, totalling 38 per wing. Don't lose your mind just yet though, as there are two templates supplied that have fold-down "spacers" to prevent you gluing your templates to the wing. They also have a set of rectangular holes in their centres, which should allow you to carefully position them in the correct position, as well as orientation to the airflow. One template is used twice per wing to create the rows that align with the rear edge of the wing, while the second template is angled to fit along the leading edge of the wing. The last parts are a pair of riveted bases for probes on the airframe. Zoom! Set (FE667) If you're just looking for a quick fix for the cockpit for whatever reason, the lower priced Zoom! set ticks the boxes, containing just the pre-painted and self-adhesive fret shown above, that allows you to detail the majority of the cockpit, seats and belts as already described. Undercarriage (48796) This set contains two frets of brass measuring 14.4cm x 7cm and 7cm2. The nose gear bay is left relatively untouched, receiving only small details to the bay doors, an oleo-scissor link and a small part for the axle. It's a bit of a coal-hole in there anyway, so additional detail would be difficult to see. The main gear wells however are totally revamped, with the majority of the internal ribbing removed before being replaced by some very nicely done detailed and in-scale parts. The roof is covered with a skin, which helps hide any scars you left from removing the moulded-in detail, the remaining upstands are also skinned, and then a large number of ribs with lightening holes are added back, with an exploded scrap diagram assisting in locating them in the correct places. The sidewalls are either skinned or given new ribbing that are linked to the roof skins, making them easy to place correctly. Gone are the days when Eduard wheel bay sets could prove troublesome due to the tiny mating surfaces – their PE engineering skills have progressed a lot over the years. The bay doors are also skinned with more PE, giving the main gear bays a highly detailed look that would benefit further from the inclusion of some wiring looms that you could add from lead wire. Air Brakes (48742) Comprising two sheets of brass measuring 14.4cm x 7cm, this set adds extra detail to the air brakes and spoilers that adorn the wings of the Javelin. On the underside of the wings are the main air brakes, which pop-up from a shallow bay when needed, pushed by a pair of rams. These are depicted in styrene, but the bay and inner surface of the brakes are lacking in detail, which the Eduard set provides nicely. A skin for the bay roof, and an inner skin for the brake itself are supplied, one set for each wing. The spoilers are four in total and two sit behind the air brakes on the underside, with another two on the upper wings. They are slotted throughout their length, and the kit parts are replaced entirely with folded up PE parts that form a triple layer with a slight recess around the edges. The actuators and their tracks are also built up from PE and hold the spoilers at the correct angle from the wing when deployed. There aren't many parts in this set, but they are large and add the required detail to those prominent areas, much improving their look. Masks (EX411) A sheet of kabuki masking tape that is pre-cut to shape for the canopy and wheels to speed up the masking process, which given the complex shape of the windscreen would be quite useful! The large compound curves of the canopy are masked around the edges as usual, with the modeller required to fill the central void with scrap tape or masking fluid to complete the job. The masks allow for the painting of the hubs, masking and then spraying of the tyre colour. Conclusion The usual options are available to either buy the lot and go crazy, or pick the sets that suit your tastes and budget. The masks are always handy, and with the wide expanses of clear parts in the canopy and the small complex shapes of the windscreen, they make a tempting proposition. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
    2 points
  36. When last left, I was dealing with water on wet cover finish issues. I have sorted that out and that has been taken care of. So the only thing remaining is to finish the bulged wheel covers and put on sharp nose thingy on the end of the nose cone. So, after much filling, sanding, filling, sanding, I ended up with this as my modified bulged wheel covers And they installed fairly easy. Initially I was worried as I could not get them to fit flush, but it seems as when the landing gear is deployed, these covers retract, but not to a completely closed position. So here is my representation of this situation. Sure hope it is correct. After removal of the canopy masking and placement of the sharp nose thingy, this kit is finished. Here it is in its new home. I still have to clean up a couple of minor paint issues with the canopy, then find a space large enough to take the Ready for Inspection photos. That will happen today or tomorrow. Thanks for looking in and thanks to everyone who has made comments and suggestions. I really appreciate them.
    2 points
  37. Hello. Two years ago I have bought an Amercom mig-21 MF with GDR markings. Since I was bored with them I have decieded to convert my mig into yugoslav one. Today it has yugoslav markings form the 90s. I have used Lift here decals 1:100 for MiG-21 and Humbrol enamel. I did this with a brush since i do not have airbrush. The original mig with this registration number on its fin is stored in Yugoslav air-force musem on Nikola tesla airport.
    2 points
  38. Right folks, this is the final chapter of this build thread. After a coat of Klear I did the weathering and glued together the rear wheels: To get them to fit I had to drill out every wheel: If you haven't already guessed I am leaving the roof off, this allowed me to glue the screen on at a slightly rakish angle which I like the look of: During wheel assembly I finally lost the mirror: But thanks to the near miraculous properties of my Gorilla glue it was easy to fix: All that was left now were a few final paint and varnish touch ups and I found some suitable number decals in the spares box for the hood / bonnet. I painted the seats, spare tyres and inside of the cabinet with matt varnish as they were too shiny for my tastes: I left the main wheels as they were as they look all right to me. I think I can declare this little bunny as finished, time for an RFI. Link here. Bye for now, Nigel
    2 points
  39. Which one ? MMM ? I'd like to see Boeing thrown out of the trade marks registers in the toys categories, especially for historic aircraft names that weren't their product in the first place. It's ridiculous.
    2 points
  40. Okay, tomorrow I'm off to see my in-laws in northern Michigan, 300 miles away, so my holiday weekend will be spent travelling or among the barbarous subhumans that dwell up there. But first:
    2 points
  41. Hello everyone, after reading Tony O'Tooles articles recently on the Lockheed Ventura in RAF and Commonwealth service I fancied doing one myself. Initially I wanted to do a SAAF one serving in the Med but couldn't quite work out how to do the modification to the air intakes to make it look like the Vokes filter had been fitted and removed. So I found this picture of an RAF one of 500 Sqn serving in the Med and flying out of Algeria: So I was set on this one, not least as I like the colour scheme. Here are the photos, excuse the floral effect of my garden in the background! I re-did the inside as per Tony's article to give it the one set of controls and adjustment to the bulkhead, plus creating a station for the radio operator. I also made the sun blinds with paper and guitar strings from my trusty acoustic! Propellers are the True Details resin. The wheels seem to be the wrong type for many Venturas have a cap of sorts over the hub. It is also awaiting some British GP bombs to be slung underneath as opposed to the US bombs supplied with the kit. Painted with Tamiya and Xtracrylix and first time using Alclad gloss which I really liked. Weathered with Tamiya pastels and flory models dark dirt wash, pre and post-shaded. Decals were a mix of generics from Xtradecal and eagle strike which went down well apart from the individual serial numbers where there was a little bit of silvering that Micro Sol sorted out! Thanks very much for looking!
    2 points
  42. It's official - the project compete! One last thing to do - the final daylight shots, including both long range bombers - flying wings - children of Northrop and Belyaev
    2 points
  43. Using some 2mm discs punched out of Bare Metal Foil "Chrome" I gave the mirrors a reflective surface: BMF Chrome is not very mirror like but at least it is a nod in the right direction. I was disappointed to find that now the doors were on my carefully crafted Jerry can no longer fitted: Even though the LHS does not have the stupid sticky out thing, with the door in place the fit was less than ideal: They will just have to join their mates on the tanker bed. I mixed up some custom red and orange paint for the reflectors and painted it onto some of the same clear plastic I used for the screen: I used red 1.2mm ones for the rear bed: and orange 1.5mm ones for the front Oh yes, I have also glued on my infamous oil drum. Now there is nowhere it hide, I have to get the wheels sorted next.
    2 points
  44. The first Intruders are painted; the priming shows some nasty sink marks. Since it was only on two aircrafts, and I do have some spares, it's not that bad. Priming was done woth dark grey, as opposed to black on the corsairs. That's how they look after painting. I like the tan nose of the colourful times of the USN. The first and only Skywarrior is almost finished. It now needs a gloss finish and a few decals. In the end, I will add the refuelling probe. The first three types compared in size. The Corsairs with the kit decals are finished, they lacked the orange parts and the black walkways. I added them with a fine brush.The orange is not the same as the red lozenges on the rudder, but it's not easy to spot. By the way, you can clearly spot which one didn't get the dark priming before the white paint. Alex
    2 points
  45. I weathered the piece based on period photos. There is no paint chipping and minimal rust. These M4A3's were collected from the supply point, modified and painted just before the invasion. They were on the island a month or two at most. The last thing I will do is dust the whole thing up. Vehicles on Iwo Jima became covered with a grayish pumice dust in no time. G
    2 points
  46. Thanks for all your comments, especially to Mick B for reminding me I had not added the yellow tips to the props and to Tony for putting me right with the angles of the wings...I had a feeling they were not quite right but could not put my finger on it. I worked out that the wings tilt outwards both vertically and horizontally, so I managed to removed them, made some longer wing stays and refitted them with out to much ado. I also managed to get the prop blades off, paint their tips and re-install them. Before I post new photos I will post a few showing how I made the clear wingtip nav lights. First I drillled out small holes at roughly 45 degrees in the wing tips where I had cut out the sections for the Navigation lights. A suitably sized piece of rod was painted red and blue/green to represent the globes. And these were inserted into the holes. The areas surrounding the lights were masked off, mainly to protect the panel lines in case any superglue spilled over. Thick gap filling superglue was then used to form the lenses; let to go off for a few seconds then hit with kicker. And with a very quick sand and polish we have two navigation lights. Here I have also added the Barracudacast Gun barrels...they are so much more accurate and detailed than the kit efforts. Now back to the completed model
    2 points
  47. superb looking phantom, great job on the paint looks great and very nice finish
    1 point
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