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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/04/2014 in all areas

  1. Another Lightning from Airfix. This one was built entirely out of the box with the exception of some tape seat belts (which of course can't be seen) and was brush painted using Humbrol enamels. I'm not entirely happy with it as I made too many silly mistakes during the build but overall I'm fairly pleased with how it has turned out. In what is becoming a habit, I managed to snap the pitot tube and have asked the nice folks at Airfix if they would be kind enough to send me a replacement. I decided not to weather this at all as I am building a range for my new display cabinet which will all be p
    10 points
  2. Finished a couple of weeks back but just got around to taking some snaps. Super kit with what should have been "fool proof" engineering - just not for me; I managed to stuff something up (not sure what or how) but the starboard wing was out in two dimensions at the front leaving me with an awkward gap that needed filling & sanding. I looked in vain for a pair of AM resin seats as these would rweally have helped, hopefully someone will do some in the future. Xtracolours for the main scheme with a coat of satin varnish (I don't like them too glossy!)
    8 points
  3. Here is my effort at the Airfix's 1/72 Buccaneer S2B in Gulf War livery. I used the upgrade resin parts from Freightdog for the nose, refuelling probe, elevators, etc and the decals for "Guinness Girl" were from Model Alliance. The stand was made from a piece of oak flooring and brass tubing. You will also need a lot of filler but the kit is pretty straight forward. The paints used were Xtracrylix, Tamiya and Vallejo. Anyway here are a few photo's and please let me know what you think or if you have any questions? Cheers Ian
    7 points
  4. Decided to try it in bare metal finish aka Alclad. I was mightily disappointed with the finish, I suspect it's a case of try, try and try again. Thanks for looking. BB
    7 points
  5. After a bit of a break I've managed to finish 2 in 2 days! I don't normally do 1:72nd stuff but these new tool Airfix kits have really caught my interest, so I found myself walking out of the model shop with this. And then I even started it, just as a little 'aside' build as I got on with other stuff. Picked it up every now and then and did a little bit more, until completion today. It's a bit of a blast from the past as I well remember when Airfix released their original Harrier back in the late 60's when I was a kid. I've always liked the early pointy nose version with its glossy paintwor
    6 points
  6. It is a good little bit of kit isn't it. I was really pleased with the results. I think you're right that an adaptor would be a good mod - to save wastage on plastic sheet.I have to say that the combination of learning to do rtv/resin casting (ta Mark) and having this little machine to make easy and reliably decent vac formed parts - feels like it opens up modelling possibilities hugely. I'm sitting in Manchester Airport typing this. Off walking in Scotland for a few days. But I managed to do a tiny bit more over the last few days - in between frantically trying to get up to speed at work
    6 points
  7. Hi all, I am actually still busy with another project (1/48 KittyHawk Mirage F1CZ) which I posted in the "In Progress" section here; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234951466-148-kittyhawk-mirage-f1/page-1. I recently travelled to the US for a few weeks and on my return found myself totally uninterested to continue with that project for the time being. It turned out to be quite a difficult kit to build due to all the corrections that needed to be made which contributed to my temporary "builders block". To get the mojo back I decided to do a quick build of this kit, Hasegaw
    5 points
  8. This is Airfix's old Devastator kit with Starfighter Decals markings for a VT-6 TBD circa 1940. I used White Ensign's PE set for the interior and added a small bulge for the machine gun breech to the fuselage side and a pitot tube, the rest is as Airfix made it. -Dan
    5 points
  9. It's taken a long time, but the third part of my DC-8 trilogy has just rolled off the bench. Once again, this is the Minicraft kit, but this time, I didn't have to change the engines ! Markings for Air Zaire 9Q-CLG "Domaine de la Nsele" came from 26 Decals (Sheet 144-147). They performed flawlessly as usual, but I did notice a couple of anomalies comparing them to photos of the real thing on the net.......after I applied them and then buried them under layers of Future. A link to the somewhat tortuous WIP can be found here : http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2349
    5 points
  10. Hi My favourite airframe in the Shuttleworth Collection at Old Warden is the 1941 Hawker Sea Hurricane Ib. "Hurricane Z7015 was built by Canadian Car & Foundry at its Fort William, Ontario, plant during 1940 as a Mk I, after flight testing Z7015 was shipped to the UK. On June 27 1941 it was converted to Sea Hurricane Ib standard. Z7015 had a patchy wartime flying career, which ended in 1943, when it was delivered to Loughborough College as an instructional airframe. It remained there until it was transferred to the Shuttleworth Collection in 1961. Z7015 was used statically in the 'Battl
    4 points
  11. I always liked the look of the Panthers fitted with extra armour plate to the turret roof and engine deck, so when I had the opportunity to get the Italeri kit featuring the add on armour I jumped at the chance! The kit isn't of the quality of Dragon or Tamiya, but it is a good kit and fits together reasonably well. I used a dental burr to roughen up the armour plate, and a pyrogravure gave the weld seams and torch cut edges a better look. The instructions would have you paint the add on armour in the same scheme as the rest of the tank, but I like the contrast of the armour painted in red ox
    4 points
  12. I've long admired the glorious turquoise and white scheme that adorned Rolls Royces Mk XIV Spitfire in the mid to late 1060s just before G-ALGT played a supporting role in the epic film the Battle of Britain. A challenging build with a number of self-imposed setbacks, it is with no small measure of relief that GT joins the rest of movie stars in display cabinet! Im not sure if this model is best described as a kitbash or a conversion; it consists of Hasegawa Mk IX wings, horizontal tail surfaces and a modified fuselage. The Hasegawa fuselage was modified by removing the Merlin and grafting
    4 points
  13. Airspeed Oxford I V3354 14 SFTS, Cranfield, 1940 Kit: Admiral 7234 Build thread HERE
    4 points
  14. I think they are too deep for the liquid green stuff, I have already applied some Squadron green filler anyway. Getting things ready for some primer I tided up the missile racks, the ones on the left have been done and on the right this how they came off the sprue: The mounting pin holes also had to be drilled out. I think these are the only location features on the whole kit. I have a theory that these parts have been copied off another kit - they look just like the ones on my Hasegawa Me 262. I removed these parts from the sprues and that is it, there is nothing left on them: I said
    4 points
  15. Hi everyone, Here's my conversion of the Airfix Merlin HC.3 to a Royal Navy HM.1. Along with plenty of scratchbuilding, it also benefits from the Eduard etched set, Archer rivet decals and Belcher Bits Stingray Torpedoes, by the time I'd finished, about the only parts not modified were the glazings. The WiP thread can be found here for anyone that's interested in seeing the changes: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956388-airfixevergreen-merlin-hm1/ The aircraft I've modelled was part of 457 flight of 829 NAS Fleet Air Arm, based on HMS Lancaster. The airfram
    3 points
  16. This is the CA Battle TT in 1/48th scale with the Heritage Aviation resin correction set for the nose and tail sections. The full WIP can be seen in the Training Types GB which finishes tomorrow. Max
    3 points
  17. I haven't put up a WIP for a bit. I still have loads unfinished on the shelf but hey. Most of my future builds will be of local historical interest to me. I grew up within spitting distance of the Boulton Paul factory and also the associated Pendeford (Wolverhampton) Airfield. I have a WIP that is currently stalled of a Bristol 170 Freighter that featured in the feature film "The Man in the Sky" starring Jack Hawkins and can be seen here. I have various kits in the pipeline, including resin, that will represent all of the aircraft, including experimental, that were produced by BP. The travel
    3 points
  18. I've been lacking motivation lately and have gotten stalled on the past few projects, so I pulled out a Tamiya kit in hopes of breaking the builder's block - and it worked! This kit was also an excuse to use up a bunch of spares and leftovers in the closet, so it's a bit of a hodgepodge of aftermarket. It was also my first attempt at mottling, and with many other 190's and 109's planned in the future I need to learn to mottle! You can check out the WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234957565-148-tamiya-fw190a-8-to-break-builders-block/ A "quick" rundown on the af
    3 points
  19. Hello I have just finished this one even if I built her over one and a half year period. This is because I am always building many kits at the same time ! It was easy to build but I discarded the decals from the box when I found a couple of pictures of this very aircraft of 349 squadron Belgian Air Force circa 1946. So the decals came from some different sheets (Modeldecal, Syhart and Daco) to get the closest markings even with two types of ratio for the roundels. On the other hand the fin flag does not appear on the pictures so it is conjecture. I hope you will like her, but I am open to a
    3 points
  20. Hello Folks, I`m not sure whether I have ever posted this old model on here before but if I have, please forgive me. It was built for a magazine article a few years ago, before I had a digital camera. It wears the camouflage that I have researched comprising of PRU Blue, Medium Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey (although I did lighten the latter colour somewhat) and the 208 Sqn bars came from a 1/32nd Hunter decal sheet from Xtradecal. Anyway here it is, in the markings of 208 Sqn at RAF Luqa during the 1956 Suez Crisis; Also,....here is my 1/72nd scale Vampire wearing the
    3 points
  21. 1/72 Airfix Hawk T1 XX230 Aeroclub early seats, CBLS courtesy of Giorgio , markings from Xtradecal, metal nose pitot from cut down needle
    3 points
  22. Today I finally got round to doing the hull numbers which I had been dreading. Before handling many tiny bits of photo etch I completely cleaned and hoovered the modelling board. IMG_4054 by Snapper_city, on Flickr So with only the carpet monster to worry about I pressed on. Once they were all clipped from the sprue they were all individually held with a razor blade and any excess removed with a new bladed scalpel. They are so small they fit on the end of a cocktail stick. IMG_4057 by Snapper_city, on Flickr And here they are attached using a tiny bit of PVA. IMG_4062 by Snapper_city, on
    3 points
  23. OK. 1 of 3 completed so far. Still working on the other 2, but just to make sure that one makes the deadline I give you: Lebanese Air Force T.55
    3 points
  24. Next I assembled the seats: Then it was a quick job to assemble the rest of the cockpit and give it a coat of matt varnish: I put a couple of surplus prepainted PE parts that I found in the spares box in there for the radar operator: The the whole lot could be fixed in the "fuselage?": Now the two halves of the aircraft can be joined together.
    3 points
  25. Hello Everyboy, After the P-39, another one in the soviet row, Zvezda's Yak-3. Do build like a dream, finely detail out of the box, just used the Begemoth decals sheet for the scheme. Hope you'll like it and as usual comments and remarks most welcome, Best to you all, Stef (#6)
    3 points
  26. Can't thank you enough for the kind comments and the support that I've had along the way. I've got to admit that changing the engines on the 43 and 55 nearly buried the project, so I'm more than pleased to be able to eventually drag all three of them over the finish line. Here are the family snaps I promised in the original post : Thanks for looking. mike
    3 points
  27. Some small work done today. I have finished the tail and removed the 2 inlets(?!) on top of the fuselage. Here are some pictures. The tail after making it the right profile (I hope). The bulges/intakes removed in two stages. bulge mostly removed with a hobby knife. I have taped of the surrounding to safe the nice detail. And here after sanding the rest away and make it look nice again. This is a picture of the model to get a look at how the model is. Boy what a nice lovely kit this is. Now Airfix please scale it up in 1/48?! Cheers,
    3 points
  28. Because the cockpit inner "cage" ll need a bit of thinking, how to do it, i continued with adding some details here and there. So i made new armor plate, which was behind the operator´s seat, it was possible to fold it back down, probably for better acces to the radio and other stuff. I ll glue this in the folded position - its simple evergreen sheet with drilled hole for the glass. I used clear fix to make the glass there. At the end it got some holder from wire. Added few more details to bomb bay, the tanks are still dry fit there. The cables at the back side (actualy it should be hydrau
    3 points
  29. Lots more sanding last night and today, and a bit of gluing, to get here: The decks are all loose still, but the superstructure is all attached to the relevant deck. More to do building the upper levels. I re-did the front superstructure and got rid of the big gap with the deck, I'm pleased with that now. I also finished sanding the bottom as described in the previous post: and finally I've been sanding my weapons and finishing off the Styx launcher. I think it came out pretty well. The gun turret now has the curves that it should, and I've thinned down the edges of the arm
    3 points
  30. This is the last of my most recent builds. Hellcat Mk II made from the Eduard ProfiPack F6F-5 kit (with US markings). My model is pretty much built straight from the box with minor exceptions; I don't know if I captured everything right for a FAA aeroplane but all I changed was the aerials and masts on the fuselage and I added better resin machine gun muzzles. The kit does come with its own resin updates for the wheels and some PE for the cockpit. The kit went together very well and I liked the quality of the surface detail and transparencies. I used Xtracolour for the Glossy Se
    3 points
  31. Fantastic kit of an extraordinary car... bestest, M.
    2 points
  32. Well guys I am calling these four done, just over 9 weeks from start to finish and I have to say this is one commission I wish I could keep. Each airframe has been based on a specific image/images as per my customer¡¦s requirements, we must have exchanged a few dozen emails since then ironing out specifics. All four are based on the standard 1/72 SR-71 and YF-12A kits with the addition of various Eduard etch detail, Wolfpack Seats and the Kiwi Resin Conversion Sets for the A-12 and M-21. Hope you all enjoyed the WIP reports. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234957317-a-12-
    2 points
  33. OMG, I'm doing a plane and it's part of our Group Saturday Build Club so I'll only be working on it for 4 hours every other Saturday so, this should be interesting as there are technically only 4 more Build Saturdays between now and the end of this GB, that's 16 hours (because if they happen to clash with Club Night, also a Saturday, we don't have them!). A few of the Club members get together to build without interruption from family etc and it goes quite well. Now, some will say the kit is wrong, it needs this or that but this will be strictly 'out the box' Early construction seems to
    2 points
  34. So I'm doing this monster of a kit.I am contemplating buying the DJ Parkins set but am in 2 minds,as the's not a lot I'd use from I think...Mainly the cockpit,seat & airframe.
    2 points
  35. Great job, well done Tom. GBs are good fun aren't they?! Max
    2 points
  36. Hawk T Mk.1 XX164 4 FTS, RAF Valley, 1990 - 1991 Kit: Revell 1/32 Red Arrows Boxing Decals: Xtradecal X32-027 and X32-031 Aftermarket: Eduard Hawk T Mk.1 / Mk.51 Big Ed Set Build thread: Here
    2 points
  37. Hello Modellers, this is my italian version of the famous me109. In 1943 Regia Aeronautica got a bunch of 2nd hand german fighters to overcome the difficoulties of national production. They've been used during the battle for Sicily and after the armistice in September the survivors returned to Luftwaffe, In 1944 some other 109 (still 2nd hand) have been used by Aeronautica Repubblicana till the end of the war, The Italeri kit is not really great and moulds show their age (I think is the reboxing of the Academy one) but decal sheet is really great, Maybe in the future I could buy a better and
    2 points
  38. Well today's work - or why I hate DECALS. The day started well, before embarking on the weekly shop I managed to get the decals on for the scheme I wanted: When I got back Disaster - not only had all of the decals silvered badly, but the dragon broke up completely. Change of plan time - I pulled the decals off, and picked one of the other Korean War scheme with less colour (204th FA, Korea, 1952). Then out with Silhouette studio and drew up some masks, then cut them with my Craft Robo. Out with the masking tape Then sprayed Alclad white and unmasked. Then on with the weathering - A
    2 points
  39. Personally I only use the stuff in the small glass jars like those in Steve's photo above. I only use it as a filler, but people also use the stuff in aerosols as a surface primer. Others also thin the stuff in jars with cellulose thinners to spray it through an airbrush as a primer/microfiller - I've never tried that either, as I just prefer using Tamiya or Halfords primer. As mentioned previously there are three grades with 500 being the thickest, 1000 a medium & 1500 the thinnest. To use it as a primer, I usually use the 500. I apply it with either a cheap paintbrush or cocktail stick
    2 points
  40. I'm inclined to agree with many of your comments and the new golden age for modelling.In over 40years the last decade has seen kits of scale and subject released not dreamt about even 10-20 years ago. This isn't just the case for aircraft, MV's, Maritime & vehicles have such a spectrum of kits. Far from a dying art, it is thriving, for those who don't remember the problems encounters by companies like Airfix in The 1980's recession, it was so negative, whereas through this one it's been a case of boldness be my guide. The argument of they won't do it because they've beaten us to it does
    2 points
  41. Hello All, I have been doing some more wood effect practice with acrylic retarder over a light base: I think the most important thing I have learned is to keep the effects light, much lighter than here, as the real thing was made out of the highest quality plywood they could source. Less is more! Thanks for looking, Adrian
    2 points
  42. this is the actual aircraft (unfortunately the quality of the pictures is very poor, taken with the aircraft standing on its nose at a scrapyard): Victor
    2 points
  43. I needed to weight the nose so I rolled some paper, glued the seam, plugged one end with rolled up tissue paper then soaked the plug in CA to harden it. Once my tube was made, I filled it with Liquid Gravity and CA then glued the whole thing into place through the intake. Have I just invented the "Heavy Metal" cigarette?
    2 points
  44. Hi just come back online today, 885 will be at that time in grey due to the fact that the shorty's are not as well used by the RAF and so their hours are not as high as the long versions. Refueling probes are not normally fitted to the J models, only a few say two or three over the whole of the twenty four aircraft fleet. These being used for inflight refueling training, the probe takes about four/five hours to fit or remove, so not difficult task. Engines these can be in either grey or green, engine chages happen on regular basis, whilst it takes about a complete 8 hour shift to change these
    2 points
  45. Well, Gentlemen, here is the canopy framed.... Framing is clear decal, painted first interior green and then dark green, and cut into strips. It took about three four inch strips to get it all down; there was some wastage. After the framing was on, I dipped the clear part of the nose in Futuire (Klear) and wicked off excess. I am pleasantly surprised at the result. I will be blanking only one of the nose panels, mid-level on the port side. I intend to leave the Future to cure for at leastr a week before doing any further work on this. But the canopy and framing were a major 'hump' for me,
    2 points
  46. VMA-513 with a blue fin...possibly...Superscale sheet
    2 points
  47. G'day Chums, Once the yellow had dried I applied the decals.These went on with no fuss at all and settled down a treat on a drop of Klear.Once all had dried I brushed on a coat of thinned Vallejo Matt Varnish which pulled the finish together nicely. This morning I unmasked the part of the canopy which is supposed to be tinted amber. There was a load of dust in there but this will fall off in time and anyway there is not much I can do about it now.I brushed on the amber using Humbrol's 1322 Transparent Amber acrylic.This was allowed to dry and then the rest of the canopy wa
    2 points
  48. Fairey Battle target tug L5716 No. 24 Bombing, Navigation and Gunnery School, May 1944 Moffat, Southern Rhodesia Max Williams
    2 points
  49. Well that weak alcohol fuelled £89 ebay transgression arrived this morning, a quick scurry around for something to vacuum found me a lego brick and a sheet of OHP film, fantasic easy results! I'm thinking of making an adaptor so I can use smaller sheets might be something along the lines of 2 aluminium sheets with a smaller window cut out in the middle. IIRC someone else made an adaptor for it so I need to do a search and find out what it was they made.
    2 points
  50. Darren, You need to give it a coat of gloss varnish before applying the decals, then another coat to seal them before doing any weathering. I use Alclad Aquagloss as it doesn't need thinning and cleans with water. Contact Paul at Little-Cars, he will help you out, see vendor section for his contact details. Lost count how many times I've dropped paint on a model, usually cos I forgot to put the lid back on properly then shaking it! Cheers, Warren Edit: beat me to it Breaker!
    2 points
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