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Here is my Hasegawa F-18F VFA-41. I first saw these jets in 2004 during Operation Cope Thunder held at Eielson AFB. These were brand new jets so I kept the weathering very minor. I put a weapons load that I envisioned that might have been used on their first deployment. Pictures were taken with a Fuji camera set to auto. I started this project several years ago but I put it back on the self to finish a commission build. So after the completion of my Backfire I decided to finish. I used Model Master Paints, Two Mikes intakes, Eduard cockpit set, G Factor landing gear, Black box cockpit and superscale decals. Thanks for looking. V/R Rod

- Another Dora, this one is a Tamiya with sone Aires modification job.......

Hiya Folks, While building a number of the new fabric winged Airfix Hurricane`s in 1/72nd scale I also had a go at the old 1979 release with `metal wings' and with the help of a SAM resin Vokes filter and Valiant Wings DH propeller and wheels I had a go at replicating a Hurricane which I`ve always fancied doing, one of the silver Mk.I`s/Mk.X`s flown by the Rhodesian Central Flying School circa 1945. All of the panel lines were sanded down and re scribed and after locating photo`s of the subject aircraft which covered each side the anti glare panel was found to be different on both! Anyway enough blubp, here it is; It is still a good kit after all of these years but it is quite a chore to box in the undercarriage well, rescribe the panel lines and obtain extra parts such as the Vokes filter, prop, canopy etc so please Airfix,.....can we have a new metal winged one too,.......please,...please??? Cheers, Tony PS- I meant to say that I also put the cockpit from an old scrapped Academy Hurricane into it too!

Hello chaps this would be almost my last post.My plane is almost finished I just need to add exhaust do smoke marks etc and put a coat of varnish.a But I have a small problem.What kind of varnish should I use Matt or satin??Building this model was a pleasure. Here are pictures

Some finished pictures: Paints used are LifeColor acrylics.

Here's some pics of the AA Stalwart I've been working on for a while. First attempt at an all-resin kit, but the engineering is superb - once the pieces are cleaned up, the fit is excellent. Thanks to Dereck too from AA for supplying me with a few parts I was missing (or put aside somewhere and lost!). Still got the cab searchlight to add (waiting for some Little Lenses) and might dial back the weathering a bit. My first use of pastel chalks to weather - went a bit overboard, as when wet, they are quite hard to see (a bit like real mud!) Didn't want to obscure the lines of the Stolly too much, as they are fascinating subjects - so futuristic and 'Thunderbirds'-looking! Couple of SLRs in the rifle-racks if you look closely! I really think Britain reached the pinnacle of engineering in the 50s-60s, with machines like this, E-Type, Concord, the TSR-2, hovercraft and Harrier!

Gone.

Recently finished, lovely kit, but there are some things I would do otherwise next time (got a floatversion waiting in my gigantic stash) Comment is always appeciated! Dave

Hi folks built for the under a tenner GB( bought for under a fiver) this is the old Hasegawa kit.used the kit decals but added weapon load from spares,I used to build loads of this period US navy aircraft as a kid but this is the first for many years.thanks for looking

Hi All I finished this model last month. I built it for a friend. It’s a Revell 1/144 Airbus A330 and is out of the box. I did add some extra decals. When I get a but more time and space I will build my two A330. Ken

Here we have an Accurate Armour Mark 3 Tank Transporter with Sankey 60 Ton Trailer designed for carrying Chieftain and Conqueror Tanks. In this case the Cromwell Models Conqueror. As one of the original members of 3 Tank Transporter Sqdn....23 Tank Transporter Sqdn disbanded shortly after to become 3 Tank Transporter Sqdn and this is the equipment we used in the 70s at Antwerp Barracks in Sennelager BAOR. Both kits, well, 3 actually counting the trailer, fought me all the way with brittle parts breaking and replacements having to be hand made. I have made the antar with options for ballast or 5th wheel, crew canopy or, as often seen when not being used just the skeleton framework for the canopy/crew quarters behind the cab open to the elements. It still need some weathering on it although these vehicles, like tanks, only moved 6-8 months of the year so much time was kept keeping them clean, spotless and depending on the driver "bulled up" The rather long ramps on the Sankey Trailer can be displayed up or down with all chains detached or in situ

History: Between 1962 and 1967 the Canadian Ministry of Defence acquired 18medium weight tandem rotor helicopters used primarily for search and rescue (SAR) operations. (Total prize: 25.500.000 USD) The twin gas turbine engine multi-purpose helicopter is suitable for take-off under minimum IFR conditions. Besides the SAR mission it performed medical evacuations (MEDECAC), training, passenger transport and transport missions. Most famous rescue mission was performed on the 3rd of October 1980. The Dutch luxury liner “Prinsendam”, on fire and positioned 170 miles out, in the frigid waters of the Gulf of Alaska signalled an SOS. It had left Vancouver three days earlier with 510 souls on board. This large American-Canadian rescue effort resulted in all passengers safe and well. To be mentioned here is the use of the supertanker “Williamsburg” as a floating landing platform. In 2002 the helicopters were replaced by the Cormoran. The helicopters were for sale for USD 158.300 a piece. The Model: Years ago I selected the Hobbycraft 1/72 model. I think the boxart made me buy it. To complete the model I acquired Belcher Bits decals and the Eduard cockpit set . Paints came from Xtra color and the bright red was from Testors. Construction was, with the exception of the cockpitglass no problems. Most difficult was the “paint” job. Especially the red band over the side of the helicopter. Yellow is already difficult to spray on primer, but red on yellow is a challenge. The cockpit glass was taped for many times to get everything covered in a nice rescue yellow color The paintjob finished I tackled the decals. With micro set and sol the decals were put in place. The lightning bolt was cut into pieces to cover the open hatch on the starboard side. Own construction: Searchlight Sight mounted HF antenna Landing lights /anti collision lights Crash Transmitting Locators

Hi everyone, Just finished this one for the Less than a Tenner Group Build: More pics in the Gallery, here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234954229-gallery/page-2#entry1564620 Cheers, Stew

Hi, Besides the 1/16 Steam Roller the unforgotten manufacturer Bandai made a kit of the 1919 Garrett & Sons Steam Road Tractor Pendle Princess. The Steam Roller was shown here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234928567-116-steam-roller-by-bandai/ I suppose I built my model 30 or even 35 years ago. My memories of the build are almost completely gone. Nevertheless I am sure that building it was a pleasure, because Bandai kits were really outstanding. I know that in England there is a very strong interest in all kinds of vintage steam vehicles. Therefore probably many of you will know the original vehicle. For those who don't, however, this short information: Up to the thirties steam trucks and steam road tractors were a common sight at least on European roads. One of the most renowned English manufacturers of steam vehicles was Richard Garrett & Sons Ltd., Leiston, Suffolk. Their 1919 road tractor, initially built for pulling trailers of a brickyard, later converted into a showman's tractor and equipped with a current generator, was preserved by the English enthusiast Tom Varley and displayed at his Museum of Steam. There it was nicknamed Pendle Princess. After Tom Varley's death Bandai purchased the vehicle and made this kit.

Here are some photos of my 1/48 Academy MiG29A Fulcrum. Added Wolfpack cockpit, Quickboost intake covers, Aires wheelbays, exhausts, missiles and wheels. Decals by Authentic Decals. This was my Xmas present to myself in 2012!!! Many thanks for looking.....

I built this one pretty much OOB. She is reaching the final stretch: Panel lines are post shaded with Tamiya Smoke sprayed through my Iwata gravity feed.

Here is my third build completed couple of more photos will go in RFI section

Hi fellow modellers! Once again thanks a lot for all your coments Its taken some time with a few problems arising to get the rear of the IP wired up...but loads of superglue and odd bits of wire later I managed to finish it. The main problem I am finding with this build is the detail around the centre line between the two halfs!!....so literally some of the detail has to be built in two halfs! ...this is very time consuming and complicated to say the least!....but I am beating it ...sort of ...slowly Any way ....I make no apologies for the amount of photos I have taken...its taken me long enough to build this section ....so you will have to lump it!! ............... The IP wired up........... All done!!! I will be detailing above the Navigators table next...so will post again when complete........ Cheers for looking in guys

Heller 1/72 Caudron C635 Simoun Build thread here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956524-heller-172-caudron-c635-simoun/ Cheers, Stew

I thought it was time I stopped just admiring everyone else's hard work and posted some pictures of my own. This is the old tool Airfix Blohm & Voss Bv141, and it was, surprisingly to me, an enjoyable little kit. Yes, it has raised panel lines and rivets, and I'm sure that there are technical problems (e.g. proportions/length etc.), but it looks about right compared to reference photos and that's all that matters to me. Overall, fit was good. I added the swastikas on the tail from some leftovers from another kit - because I chose the paint scheme that I did, it really needed it (I feel). Paint is Tamiya XF-12 J.N. Grey (diluted with a little white in places to give some streaking, but I don't think that has really shown up terribly well. Such details as there are were done in Vallejo (mostly) bits and bobs. I chose the second scheme because a) I'm bored with splinter schemes, and I like the colour. I realise that there are many flaws, including but not exclusively: Canopies are a little rough (notwithstanding the 2+ hours spent masking them). Please bear in mind that the plastic was thick, and I can't get Future here in Oz. Washes are pretty much my first foray into anything like that, and I need lots of practice. This kit was chosen as a bit of a morale booster and practise run after a particularly traumatic DH2 build (and then I noticed the canopies!), and overall it served it's purpose - I enjoyed it quite a lot. Anyway - on with the show, and thanks for looking:

I must be mad but here they are... The Airfix Bristol Bulldog and Revell's Spad XIII C-1. These builds will fill gaps in my British Forces Aircraft that is a personal GB. The Bulldog was £3.40 from Mr Models and the Spad can still be purchased for less than £4.00 from WHSmiths.

Second listing so go easy, looking to improve, I found this kit very awkward, it was part of the Victoria Cross Icons set and have since found out how old it is. I have not attempted any weathering. The canopy masking is a real bug bearas at 1/72 scale, my eyesight and finger agility are not what they used to be. Having just started back into the model making I am amazed how much of a history lesson the modelling provides, as you delve the internet for information the stories and background information can be fascinating.

Hi everybody, here I present my currently finished RF-4E, built of Hasegawa J.A.S.F.D (07230) kit. I used addiionally Aires pilot seats, Hi Decal Line decals, Master tubes and probes, Steel Scorpion "Remove before flight" pendants (correct word?..) and Eduard painting masks. I finished my Phantom in Iranian markings: 62nd TFS, 61st TFW, Islamic Iranian Air Force (IRIAF), TFB.6, Bushehr, 1985. Thanx to Arkady72 for stencil decals! Model was paited using Lifecolor, Tamiya and Mr Hobby acrylics and Mr. Hobby and Model Master metalizers. I hope you enjoy!

Hey guys, I wasnt so mutch active online lately... but I have produce new armor... Hope you like it Cheers Roman

This is the Welsh Models 1/144th Tristar K1 ZD951, that I have painted up as she was during the Gulf War. The Two K1s were painted rather rapidly by Marshalls as the white scheme made the aircraft stand out like a sore thumb over the desert. The paint was very prone to peeling especially around the nose area.

Hi people, this is my personal interpretation of the legendary Mig-21. Aires cockpit, CMK seat, Eduard undercarriage and wells, and some scratch. Painted with Alclad an weathered with Ammo products. Some more photos, for those interested: http://dqscaleworks.blogspot.com Cheers, Q

I always seem to return to the hobby after a hiatus with a Spitfire, often a Tamiya Mk1. In this case, after almost two years moving house and qualifying as an architect (that was a long one!), Alley Cat's new 1:48 Spitfire Prototype kit was pushed to the top of the pile. A beautiful resin kit, had of bit of filling to do around the wing roots but otherwise fitted together very nicely indeed. I mixed together my own version of the infamous mystery grey/green/blue colour and used Model Alliance roundels from their interwar set for a slightly less bright blue than the kit decals. Bare Metal Foil was used for the spinner and edges of the propeller blades. Weathering was intended to reflect the aircraft just after a flight based on a Google search of images a bit of exhaust staining and some highlighting of panel lines around the cowling panels. Hope you like it! [

First posted in Photography Technique thread of the forum. I have a lot of fun trying to make a model come to life, so some night time flash photo,s and some floodlights and wet tarmac added = Revell 1/32 Hawker Hunter F.Mk 6 Night shoot.....Well sort off DSCF0196 by triumphspeedtriple, on Flickr DSCF0212 by triumphspeedtriple, on Flickr DSCF0206 by triumphspeedtriple, on Flickr

G'day Chums, Calling this one done.This is the Airfix Churchill in 1/76th scale,the build thread is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956435-airfix-churchill-in-176th-scale/#ipboard_body .Enjoy. Thanks for looking in.

Hello again Chums, A little more progress today.The lichen is still propogating I brushed some yellow on top of the greeny yellow and a little drop of orangey yellow into the bobbly bits.To my eye this does not look too far away from the real thing. I'm finding this part of the job strangely addictive and am actually quite enjoying it.Sad? Basil had a little more attention too.The blue down each side of his head should also have the speckling found on the top so I scraped away little spots of paint with the tip of a scalpel blade and then brushed a thin coat of Baltic Blue over the top.This seems to have had the desired effect. A tidy up and a brush down will sort it all out nicely.The next step is to make the orange look a bit more interesting. More soon chums,thanks for looking in.

While I have been 'resting' this has snuck into my builds and here are some progress pics. I won't do lots, just a few to show as I go along. Its the Airfix 1/48th B.16 boxing from way back. Airfix are re releasing this kit so it seems timely. All these pics focus on the cockpit area. Quite pleased how its come out. I know its not fully detailed as I am working with what I've got and within my abilities. The only extras are the etch seat belts. Anyway a lot won't be seen much! The final finish has been decided and will wear decals from a Freightdog set!

Well after just about a week she is done, although not quite as detailed as the 1/12 Tamiya kits straight out the box I have to say that as the build went along I became more impressed with the quality. I certainly will be adding a few more of these 1/9 Revell kits to the collection, decals were a challenge, I was expecting this but lots of patience and Microset/sol got the job done. This is the WIP, http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234955110-19-honda-rc-211v-revell-wip/ Model finished in the late Daijiro Kato scheme. Thanks for looking Danny

Hi all I've had the idea for a long time now about building another A380 but wanted something different so what could be different ??? Last year Bruce Dickinson wanted a new aircraft to replace the old tired Boeing 757. He wanted longer range with a bigger capacity so he placed an order with Airbus for the mighty A380. Well in spring 2014 the aircraft was going though the production and she is almost ready........ Hope you enjoy. The Kit is Revell's 1/144 and decals are custom made by Richard Warcup

Hi everyone, On the 2nd March I went to the Point Cook Airshow which celebrated 100 years in continuous operations. On the 1st of March 1914 a Bristol Boxkite flew at the airfield for the first time. At the show they had a replica make that same flight. I put a quick video together of the day, hope you enjoy. http://vimeo.com/88224853 PS: thanks to all who post tips on the model making in this Forum, I have learnt heaps from here and my modelling skills have improved greatly, keep up the good work chaps.

Hello again, As I'm sure a couple of you know, I have one hell of a passion for Spitfire's (particularly XIV's). And for the last couple years I've almost exclusively built Spitfires, all 25 of them in total (more than one a month!). So after my most recent diorama decided to finish the final two kits I have left before starting a civilian De Havilland collection of the Golden Era! One thing to note; usually I spend a week or two getting one model done and spend a lot of time scratchbuilding extras, getting every single detail right. These two I decided I wouldn't get hung up on accuracy or try to make them 100% perfect, I decided just to relax and enjoy the builds. I'm rambling again. The penultimate Spitfire I finished is Airfix's Pr XI in 1/72 (Cross kitted IX and XIX). Painted as it was in the 1948 air races, owned by the US Civil Air Attache to London and flown by ex ATA pilot Lettice Curtis. It's depicted in flight beside my ATA Anson diorama. And my FINAL Spitfire build is Airfix's new tool Mk.I (I just had to finish with the beautiful Mk I). Thanks to everyone who's complimented my Spitfires over the past couple years, and thanks to everyone at BM for improving my modelling! Here's a couple pics to show how much I've improved since joining BM 2012 2014 Well, I guess this is the final Spitfire RFI I'll make for a while! I hope I can still keep you all interested with my upcoming Moth collection Cheers, Ben.

did the gnat so thought i'd to its younger brother.

Finally I have finished this project, that I started three years ago. Today, most people who build Lansens would choose Tarangus' new 1/48 kit. But fools like me are still building this, more than thirty years old, 1/72 kit. I have used Maestro Models' photo-etched airbrakes, interior detalils, air brakes and ladder, plus Maestro's canopy and resin belly tank. The decals (apart from the "39") are RBD Decals' excellent decals. A new wheel well was scratch-built. I also made new panel lines and a few other modifications. I painted it with Gunze acrylics and used dry pastels for weathering, along with some chipping. This was one of the last Recce-Lansens in the Swedish Air Force, operating from F 11 wing, Nylöping about 1977. Perhaps an odd subject on this forum. But a beautiful aircraft that was used in Swedish Air Force for more than 40 years.

I've been having a go at being a bit ill which also included a spell of partial blindness in one eye so modelling has been well off the cards for a good while now ! I'm back to fighting fitness now though, even more so now you've inspired me yet again ! BTW I have made a working desk lamp in 48th scale using a watch bulb so it is possible:- http:// http:// Can't wait for more sir, Si.

I got the some layers of white on the underside of it. But It has been stalled for a couple of weeks, because i have been moving the assembly line from my bedroom to a dedicated room in the basement.

No, you're not alone there, had a look around but after casting two votes and having to refresh every time then wait for it to slowly reload it tried my patience beyond its limit. Wanted to check for or suggest reissuing their 72nd scale Hawker Hunter and MiG-21 F-13 kits but maybe just leave them to work that out for themselves.

LD973 F3-O No. 438 RCAF Sqn, RAF Wittering, December 1943 – January 1944. Another old Airifx tooling

hey stix, yup i m working on the spit a bit, but probably because my both hands are kinda left, i had to use a lot of filler to the fuselage and fuselage/wing joints. So at this moment its filling, sandpapering, filling, sandpapering, repeat So, i started another build (i know i know.. i m weird) which ll be realy for fun. As i have few Bf-109G from AZ Model, i ll make one Not sure if i should make thread here, dont want to spamm the GB. But anyway, i tested the alclad klear gloss, before washing the cockpit and it is AWESOME... i love alclad paints and varnishes officialy now.. thats what i expect from paints made for airbrush - open bottle.. and ready to go, no thinning, no fighting with airbrush setting.. + thumbs up from me to alclads for their instructions on the bottles. They tell you what psi should you use, how long you should let it dry, how many coats are needed.. i did just three light coats (they say two medium, but i didnt want to flood the cockpit ) and the shine was great.. So recomending the alclad klear gloss to anyone guys, good stuff.

The port nacelle is all but complete, apart from things like the undercarriage doors and the prop blades, which don't go on until later. Here it is in all its glory: Close-up of the engine. And of the undercarriage. This has been designed to retract, so I built it that way out of curiosity, just to see how it worked. It did work, after a fashion, though oddly the primary struts are too wide to fit into the wheelwell! I wasn't overly concerned by this as I fully intended to glue everything solidly at the end of the build, before I risked putting the model on its undercarriage. As it turned out I did this sooner rather than later, because the secondary strut assembly kept falling out and the last time it did it the hydraulic piston broke and couldn't be found. I replaced it with a needle of almost the right size (possibly it's slightly too narrow, but I won't tell if you don't) which you can just make out in the picture. Overall shot of the other (inner) side of the nacelle. Looking down on the engine. Those copper pipes were something I was particularly looking forward to building, because of the contrast in colour against the aluminium and black of the rest of it. Unfortunately the longer one doesn't actually connect to anything at the other end because try as I might I couldn't get it to line up properly, particularly as the engine support struts got in the way. Where I went wrong is in connecting the top end first, because alignment was crucial where it met the radiator firewall, but if I'd hooked it up at the bottom the pipes are thin and flexible enough that I probably would have had enough play to get it to fit. Different angle on those pipes - sorry about the reflected light. The starboard nacelle is at virtually the same stage, and when that's done I'm going to suspend construction and finally get started on my Heinkel 162 in the Under-a-Tenner GB (only a month late!)

I think it all depends on the scale you're working to. I should have done this chore much earlier, when there was no running rigging in the way - c' est la vie. I may have recommended this book before (I have it) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Period-Ship-Modelmaking-Illustrated-Masterclass/dp/1844156966/ref=la_B001JP2ALM_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1394111631&sr=1-1 is very useful. Reed works at rather smaller scales than I do and does all his rigging in wire. His Shrouds are done in a home made jig, cross-laid with thinner wire for the ratlines and then each one is given a slight sag.... At 1/96th, I tie hundreds of clove hitches, until the the shrouds are too close, then I glue... It's not too difficult, you just need to take your time (lots of it). A slip of card with the height of your ratlines marked off helps. Getting an even sag is, um, difficult, as is obvious in the photo! In answer to Kev, yes there will be a contingent of swabbies....they'll be the last thing to happen!

Hi Snapper and Deacon, Thank you for your comments. I got some bits done on this Spitfire yesterday including painting the wheel-wells. I hope to get get some photos posted at the weekend. Kind regards, Stix

I spent some time in the garage getting this one undercoated and then some more time re-filling and sanding the bits that needed it. Quite a few as it happens: - After another good wash to get the sanding dust off, me and the Spitfire, it was back into the garage for another coat of grey: - Next step is to get some blue inside the radiator housing and get them glued in place. Nearly ready for a final paint job. And finally, one last picture of her with her younger brother who is also now resplendent in grey: - Back soon Pete

and moving on, we now have both claws shaped... There is some work going on with the seams on the arms - I may never get them perfect, but they are awful as supplied so something has to be done with them. In between the filling sanding etc. on the arms I looked for some light entertainment... Now, take a look at this photo... note the disc thingy immediately above the collar - the disc with the red and yellow whadjamacallits... see how there is a distinct lip both above and below the main body? Also, note the next section up - that looks like lots of discs stacked together... and then look at the neck as it heads up into the brain of B9, there is a slight taper - yes? (slight being the operative word!) Now take a look at Polar Lights rendition of the same assembly..... and I do apologize for my camera turning everything green and having a dodgy focus. But does that look anything like the assembly shown above??? My a*se it does! The taper of the neck is ridiculous. They have missed a complete section (the stacked discs), and the lower section is the wrong shape entirely. How do companies get away with this? So my first plan of attack was to remove the crazy stoopid taper of a neck... like so... And then, the more I thought about it, the more it annoyed me, so I decided to make the entire assembly from scratch. Well. 99% of it - I may still use the two little brackets for the red and yellow rotating thingies. Then I at least stand a chance of having it look something like the real B9. Thankfully, I still have a wad of styrene and other odds and ends left over from the Dalek build. I found a couple of washers that appeared the correct diameter. I then found a piece of brass tubing that fit nicely inside the washers. Then, selecting a suitably thick piece of styrene, I drilled a hole in the styrene the same diameter as the brass tube, and sandwiched the styrene between two washers. I then drilled another hole ( same Ø as the brass tube) close to the corner edges of a spare block of wood. That allowed me to file around the edges of the styrene using the washers as a guide to keeping the styrene as circular as possible. Quite successful as you can see here... It's going to be close, but I think I can make these fit. I then cut two discs slightly larger diameter than the washers, and sandwiched the core between them. hopefully, when finished, the two larger discs will give me the top and bottom lip which is evident on the photo up above. That was set aside for the glue to cure. What next? Well, I was up at the neck end of B9 so thought I would continue up into the brain. Polar Lights kindly supply this little monstrosity of a part as the lower end of the brain... it's full of seams, lacks definition, and once again, is the wrong shape... AAAAAAARRRRGhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh So as you can no doubt tell from the piece of brass tubing lying beside the plastic piece - I decided to build my own (yet again) Starting with the center core, I drilled 6 holes around the circumference. Next, using the broken side of my razor saw, I cut 6 tiny little pieces of brass tube for the end pieces on the stems. I had already checked that I had another brass tube which would slide inside these little end caps. All six pieces cut, ready for cutting the stems But first, I had to ensure that each of the six little end caps was the same length, and reasonably square. So. I drilled a hole in a spare piece of styrene which was the same diameter as the OD of the little end caps. The styrene was just the right thickness (depth) I needed. That allowed me to plop the end caps into the piece of styrene, and I could then file off the excess, and filing down to the styrene ensured that the ends were square. and here is one piece test fitted for a quick visual... and a quick comparison against the kit part... I still need to trim the length of the stems a touch, and then I can figure out how I am going to fix them to the center core. A bit of superglue with a wooden dowel inside the center core should do the job. Now I just need to find something which has a SLIGHT taper that I can use for the neck Oh, and of course, Polar Lights didn't bother to include the soil sampler in the track box... so it was out with the Dymo tape... and the scriber - a few quick gouges, and we have a representation of the sampler panel. It's maybe a touch oversize, but I can live with it on this scale and now it's time for our regularly scheduled DB5 update over in the vehicles section.

Part II - Intakes. Ah, the dreaded things. Why they got them wrong, we'll never know. These are undoubtedly 'off' as the lower lip is not parallel to the upper lip of the intake. All of which makes it Satan's own spawn to some, inconsequential to others. I'm somewhere inbetween, but would love it if someone made a corrected intake or HB provided replacement intakes... :rolleyes:/> Anyway, you would be advised to sand the inside bottom lip of the intake down as it is too thick anyway. The mounting holes for the fuel tanks are too far forward - I re-drilled locating holes by eye (about 5mm, IIRC) for mine, but if left as-is, the fuel tanks will sit too far forward. They also appear too central on the kit, so I drilled mine 1-2mm off centreline, but don't overdo it or you could have interference later with the MLG struts. Don't place the intake ramps in place before you place the intakes. This will allow you to fill the seam on the inner side of the intake funnel. If you want the ramps in the 'supersonic position', ie. as per the kit, then the ramps will cover the side seam. If you want the ramps 'flat' and the intake funnel open, you'll also need to cut the ramps and don't bother with installing any of the actuators for the ramps. This will let them lie flush. There exists the same 'problem' as the Hasegawa F-14's - how to make seamless intakes! It's genuinely not that difficult to achieve, but will require a bit of effort and a lot of sanding. - Tails. These are all the same, ie. late versions with the layered triangulated plated on the top of the fins, not the two diamond shaped plates on the early Tomcats. Annoyingly, the tails mount on an odd split to the fuselage, so it's preferable, for a clean seam, to mount before painting. Some people prefer to paint the tail seperately, then mount later, but I fear you might not get such a great result with that method on this kit. - Pitot. I would recommend, gluing the kit pitot on, snapping it off, sanding it down and using a Master brass pitot replacement. Part III (final) - Rivets. These kits are known for their infamous amount of rivets, a lot of them in the wrong place (most prominently the stabs, or staiblators). I'd recommend filling with a fairly liquid substance like Mr Surfacer 500, or if you can't be arsed filling and sanding, then a wipe or two with Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr Cement S to 'melt' the riveting down some and soften the appearance. - Engine shrouds. The -B and -D have the GE engine shrouds, which thankfully are smooth, unlike the Hasegawa which have the PW ribbing. The only drama is the 'soft' edging of the shroud to the aft of the stabs - it just blends right in to the carbon case. Some judicious masking or even a quick scribe will set this right. I masked mine (the strange looking stuff on the Abe Lincoln decal is MicroSol) - Arrestor hook. The arrestor hook is, like the Hasegawa offering, a tad long. It's quite an easy fix though - cut about 2-3mm out of the length. Voila. Also, the actual hook can do with a bit of carving out to create a more rounded 'hook'. The arrestor hook mount has a poorly rendered dump pipe. I removed the 'pipe' and added a small section of sprue. This was drilled out and then shaped by carving and sanding to get a realistic looking dump pipe. - LTS (LANTIRN) Pod. The LTS pod is quite nice, with some good detail apart from the vent being on the top of the rear, not the bottom. Easy fix once again - fill the top, scribe the bottom! (Yes, I only saw this once I'd painted it, so shoot happens!) - BRU-32 bombracks. Frustratingly, these are good representations, but only come with two in the box! They also have a strange casting, so need filling - frustrating again, but not insurmountable. - Loadouts. The HB kits come with some impressive loadouts - but most of it is for the ammo dump. The forward Phoenix pallets are clearly not 'deep' enough, but the rest of the weapons rails seem pretty good and comprehensive to me. LAU-7 and LAU-138 are well represented. The GBU-31 JDAM is ok, the AIM-9L/M's superb (there is a seperate sprue of two very well detailed 'winders), the AIM-7M's are great, the AIM-54's just need the weird forward and centre 'driving bands' removing to make them good. The GBU-10/12 is more an older GBU. The Mk.82's are ok, and the AGM-84's just not applicable! The Mk.82's and the JDAM's will need an ablative coating manufacturing if you are that into detail, and I'd recommend Mr Surfacer 500 stippled on to create this effect. There are a multitude of AM weapons available, so shop around. I'd recommend North Star models' AIM-54's and GBU-38 500lb JDAMS (already with ablative coating!) - but remember that not all Bombcats got to fly with the GBU-38. The SJU-17 seats OOB are pretty good, even the PE details are nice and soft brass, not SS. Rearview mirrors are seperate, which makes placement easier than the Hasegawa 'ring of steel'. Masking idea for the non-slip walkway: I simply masked the walkway, then sprayed over with a 'thick' mix of black, on a low pressure, to achieve a worn looking surface on the intake tops. Aftermarket. Wheels - Wheeliant by Aires has just released F-14A resin wheels for HB, they already have the later -B/-D wheels released - very nice they are too Pitot - Master brass pitot and AOA are super updates. Wolfpack Designs Bombcat update - complete pallets, BRU-32's, LTS and pylon, LAU-138's. Decals - Fightertown Decals ONLY please! (ok, I used TB 'cos FT hadn't yet released their awesome Felix Final Flight...) GBU's - Northstar models for GBU-38's, AMRAAM Line for GBU-12's. Both come with the ablative coating already applied. Seats - Verlinden for GRU-7's, and I'd use Quickboost for the SJU-17's as they're Aires seats with the belts cast in resin ;-) Exhausts - Aires for PW and GE. SHULL or Dr Pepper for just GE cans. Wheel bays - Aires Canopy masks - Eduard Fuel tanks - Wolfpack Designs or Royale Resin And that folks, is that! All I can think of for now.

Hauptmann Hans "Assi" Hahn Bf 109 F-2 W.Nr. 5749, III./JG 2, St.Pol, France, July 1941 Revell/ICM 1/48 Bf109 F-2/4 Build thread

Jumping forward in time by another week, the cabin painted and closed up, as ever very little is visible once it's all closed up, but it's always hard to tell in advance. All the parts laid out Sidewall, floor and back wall Pax seats, sonar, sonobuoys Crew seats and consoles Everything in place, it just about fits All zipped up That was about a week ago, I've since made lots of progress on the cockpit and exterior, but that's for another day...