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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/21/2013 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi folks, Finally managed to get this one done, after failing miserably to finish it for the VC-10 GB many moons ago; Two-Six transfers of course, which weren't as forgiving as I'd hoped they'd be, doing the compund curves around the nose were a nightmare! Hope you like it.
  2. 3 points
    Well this is the second one of 2013. I have always loved the Italian Starfighters, but especially in their last years of operational service. I searched for this kit for year a couple of years and then out of the blue one came into my local model shop and the owner put it aside for me for a bargin price of 20 Pounds. The last Starfighters became very dirty and weathered towards the end, and i tried to replicate this. The weapons load (Sidewinder aquistion round, and Air data pod) are scratch built. Anyway, enough waffling on and on with the photos.... Sorry for all the pictures, but i do like an italian starfighter :-)
  3. 2 points
    Hi all, Revells B-52 in 1/144 Scale. The tail gun shouldn't be there on the real thing. Sprayed with Xtracolour Enamem "Gunshit Grey" Brian
  4. 2 points
    Hi Guys after a lot of faffing about I've decided to call time on this build. 148th Classic Airframes kit, not particularly difficult to build but not for a beginner either. Xtra colour paint and decals from the spares box. I could only find squadron codes for this a/c and had to make a decision to use an X for the a/c letter as nobody has any information for sure, now it's finished I expect someone will now come forward. The props were a pain, the Blenheim props turned ant clockwise and so the angle to the airflow is the opposite to what you'd expect, not only does it look odd but I knocked them off numerous times and they didn't like being refitted. The kit left me with the desire to build a Mk.I but I'll go for the Sanger kit. It can't be any harder. There is a story behind the aircraft I chose to build. I work for Her Majesty at HMP Wealstun near Boston Spa, Yorkshire. Across the road from the jail is a farmers field with a wacking great electricity pylon in the middle. N3538, suffering from engine trouble was looking for a safe place to put down but unfortunately for the 22 year old pilot, Sgt. William Curlet at 09.27hrs on the 13th March 1942 he collided with the high tension cables carried by the pylon and crashed into a field 100 yards East of the Church at Thorp Arch, about half a mile along the road from where I work. Also killed were P/O John McColl, aged 20 and Wop/AG Sgt. Eric Johnson, age unknown at present. When the weather gets better the farmer has given me permission to look about the field, p'raps I can find some part to display with the kit. The Church at Thorpe Arch The High Tension cables, the jail is behind the trees directly behind the pole on the left. The Blenheim landed right in the middle of this picture. Last picture is of the Blenheim and seven Dambuster Lancasters. I know, you can't see them but you will eventually. There is an eighth on top you cannot see. Regards Paul
  5. 2 points
    Hi, I decided to give an overhaul to all my older kits within the next few weeks or so. I will be introducing them to you one by one always when I finish the overhaul. Finally the long promised D.H.53. Build from the Choroszy Modelbud resin kit as J7273 of (most probably) CFS, summer 1924, it should have been the first of my de Havilland trainers for overhaul. However when I started cleaning the kit, the rudder stripes decals (together with the rudder serials) peeled of instantly. I decided to hand paint the rudder stripes but when I applied the white enamel base over the silver dope, the silver started seeping through in rather too artistic way for my taste. So then it was about stripping all the paints from the rudder, cleaning it thoroughly, two new coats of white, one coat of red and blue and then the serials back on again. At the same time I decided to replace the fuselage serials too in order to keep the fonts identical. Hand brushed with Revell and Humbrol enamel paints. Markings as supplied with the kit, serials by Modeldecal. Warning – the kit on the photos appears to be far larger than in reality. Thank you for looking and for your comments. Patrik
  6. 1 point
    I built this earlier last year and thought I had placed it here. Well heres the finished article, hope you like. Heres some of the pictures.
  7. 1 point
    OK..... It isn't really...... I just liked the side-view picture as I'm quite pleased with the model. It's the little 1/32 Airfix kit. A really simple, fun and pretty quick build although the decals are a pain - particularly the orange band around the mouth. Hope you like the model - I'm tempted to do another in a different racing scheme. Roy.
  8. 1 point
    Finally got these finnished , trying to clear a back log of half made kits , not perfect but pleased that they are done , all 1/24 Tamiya , First up - Sauber C9 Suzuka version (original LM`s kit decals were shot) , 99 Impreza WRC (Italy) , 1997 Le Mans Porsche GT1`s sadly neither of these cars finnished the race. Any advice/opinions good or bad very much appriciated ( best way to learn and improve ) Cheers Red 5
  9. 1 point
    Hi everyone, Well after the Astra DTM I thought Id continue the DTM theme and give myself another challenge.... The Mercedes CLK in D2 livery, and as most car modellers will know there a few decals with this one!! The kit itself went together without a problem, usual Tamiya quality and fit. The fun was as expected in the decals. I broke the body into stages and did sections at a time using Microset and Sol, they settled down pretty well over the curves. I also fitted the full SMS Carbon Fibre Set, well if you gonna do decals may aswell do em all!! The main dissapointment was after Id finished and laid down the clear cote, it 'melted' some of the decals. The clear Cote probably went on a bit thick, but you live and learn!! On display in the cabinet it looks ok!! Anyway, here are a few pics!! Any comments greatly received!! Thanks for looking Matt
  10. 1 point
    In hindsight..... I don't think a Sea Harrier FRS1 was such a good choice for a third build since my 30 year modelling 'holiday'. Why? Because too many people around here know too much about them! So building one of these as a test of new to me materials and techniques possibly wasn't such a good idea. So.. You are all going to have to forgive me for using a little artistic licence when I built and painted this. Mostly based on and inspired by this aircraft ( http://www.abpic.co.uk/popup.php?q=1055311 ) on its return to the U.K. after the Falklands conflict (I was in my early teens at the time). I have taken some liberties based on my lack of experience and just tried to get a presentable model, rather than a totally accurate presentation... Could be too much of the 'what ifs' about me. So please excuse the lack of tilted tail plane, the port side tank I should have weathered differently, the lack of 'distressed' sidewinder rail and a hundred and one other little 'errors'. So.... This was built from a second hand Esci kit that sadly had suffered somewhat in its slightly squished box and some of the main parts were somewhat warped. Cue careful bending back into shape in a bowl of hot water. I should have taken that as a warning because THIS build fought me every inch of the way with many little things going wrong. Trying resin parts AND some limited brass all at the same time was almost taking on too much. A bit of a challenge for this inexperienced soul I say, but I had to have those gorgeous Pavla gun pods, nozzles and intakes, as well as give brass a try with a little Airwaves set. I also had a bunch of decals from back in 1982, and a part used Modeldecal sheet that would allow me to create this aircraft without buying any other aftermarket sheets. Sadly, the Esci kit stencil set was pretty awful and didn't respond to Microsol at all. With no decent stencils I decided to replace the whole lot with the excellent Extradecal Falklands Anniversary sheet. Oh, and finished off with the Master pitot and angle of attack tube. I'm totally sold on these, they're great! The brass not so much. So here it is. I'm sort of pleased with it, it's a million miles away from my Matchbox rendition when I was in school, but.. My next model is going to be an out of the box build me thinks... Maybe practice my NMF and weathering a bit and not bother with all those bells and whistles... This time. And before I let you get on and look at my images... One last thing. I will eventually stop banging on about how I haven't done this for 30 years since I left school but I want everyone to know where I'm coming from and... well... erm... be more kind. SeaHarrier03 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr SeaHarrier01 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr SeaHarrier04 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr SeaHarrier05 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr SeaHarrier06 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr SeaHarrier07 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr
  11. 1 point
    Last year I got given the model as a birthday present, nothing new in that I guess, but it had been 30 odd years since I last made a model. It seemed a daunting task at first, what with all the new paints and equipment available nowadays, so off I went and bought an airbrush kit from EBay, thinking that it would do a good job of the model, especially the bigger size of 1:48, always used to do 1:72 kits. Down to my local model shop to get the paints required, and bearing in mind I had nothing at this stage, ended up with quite an outlay, but got all the colours required, boy the prices have increased a lot since my last efforts. Had a quick play with the airbrushes and some mixed paints, just to get used to it all and found it was a lot more difficult than I had imagined, and a lot of practise was needed. In retrospect, I should have bought a compressor and tank, to make life easier. The model took shape slowly, I was determined that this was not going to get messed up. Using the new to me,Revell liquid cement, was a joy, no more messy joints like the old days with tube glues, and with the fine steel tube applicator a darn site more accurate. The kit was better than I first thought, when dry fitting the parts together, only one or two joints needing filler when the assembly was finally stuck together. I made the mistake of not using a primer, something I have learned about from reading through model builds on the forum and will do in future models. Airbrushing of course was a disaster, and I also needed much more time learning how to use it properly. Somehow managed to get what paint I had applied, washed off and decided that I would use the good old fashioned brush method for now and relegated the airbrush to its box. It took me a month or two to get what I thought was a good model completed and rekindled my interest in model making. I have lots to learn for sure, but the whole experience was enjoyable.
  12. 1 point
    Hi All This is my first submission in well over a year. Fresh off the workbench (dining table!) is this Academy P-47D, which I sarted well over a year ago. The kit is the nose art boxing which I bought of e-bay and included Verlinden and Eduard detail sets, not bad for under ten quid!! However, both details sets were made for the Hasegawa kit but with a bit of persistance and surgery I managed to utilise the Verlinden cockpit and some of the Eduard PE bits. Not having an airbrush I decided to try BareMetalFoil, which went down really well, taking my time. That was in December 2011, and the kit got consigned to the garage over Christmas 2011. Upon retreiving it last Spring the BMF looked more like an Aero Bar with bubbles all over the place and I decided to abandon the project and left it in the garage for another year. However, I took the bull by the horns earlier this year and started to rescue the foil job. I replaced some of the foil panels and with the assistance of a very fine hypodermic needle, I pierced the bubbles on the others and smoothed them down. Job eventually done! But then the Academy decals just would not settle on to the foil and came off in my hands to the lightest touch, with the exception of the nose art - wiered but thankfull!! But I had a set of national insignia from Sky Decals, I made the codes up from various other decal spares and stencils from Crazy Modeller which all went down fine. It's not perfect, but I'm still quite new to this and have learned lots in doing the kit that I can apply to my next challenge. A good thing about the P-47 is that a lot of your hard work to complete the cockpit is still visible after you close the fuselage up and attach the canopy. I'll certainly be watching e-bay for another one!! Enjoy the pics! Adam
  13. 1 point
    Hello, here is my latest build, the Dragon 1/72 T-34. I hope you will like it. Thanks for looking.
  14. 1 point
    -A very rare machine seldom seen in model, .This kit in 48 scale is made from the transkit from North Wing Model Craft;It consist of a resin new fuselage and canopy mated to a standard Hien from Hasegawa
  15. 1 point
    UPDATE 4: Hey, Did a bit more on the MGB today.. The engine and wheels before extra painting, as well as the first test fit of the interior and shell. I also decided to have a go at sorting out the flashy grill.. I'm kind of annoyed that the seats have no back to them. Didn't realise it until I'd finished spraying them. I think I'll scratch-build some backing for them over the weekend.. Here's the grill before treatment... ...and after... still needs a fair bit more tidying up but it's better than it was (slightly)... After the gearbox and various bits of the engine were painted, I weathered it with a bit of Paynes Grey oil paint.. Came out quite well for an OOTB attempt.. Steering wheel painted up a bit, wheels dry-brushed (my own method - don't know how else you're supposed to do spokes, unless you take hours and paint them by hand). Unfortunately I screwed up a couple of them and the paint went where I didn't want it.. have to redo those patches and then do some extra touch-ups. The engine will also need some more work done, as will the grill. That's it for now. More work to be done on this one over the weekend, including spraying the body hopefully. I'm weighing up between Racing Green, the classic red or possibly Teal. Even though my own MGB GT was English white, it's quite hard to do a white paint job well, so I'm steering (no pun intended) away from that option. Thanks, as always, for looking, Andy.
  16. 1 point
    Sprues & decals Source: http://img.luckymodel.com/default.aspx?item_no=KI-K48046 V.P.
  17. 1 point
    Ah, what a thoroughly enjoyable read. Thanks for sharing your recollections Steve. cheers.
  18. 1 point
    Very nice. Didn't know there was a 'gunshit grey' Dave
  19. 1 point
    Right, I've stripped off the Klear and redone it and it looks much better (thanks Stu). I've constructed some pipework on the side and added some ladders at the rear. It is difficult to see in this image but I have also 'run' the cables from the junction box, at the rear of the launcher, down to the base of the vehicle chassis. The cabin windows have been painted light grey then a coat of Tamiya X-19 Smoke has been added to give a reflective effect. The bumper, lights and indicators have also been painted. Looking at this image I obviously need to paint the Smoke up to the window edges. The hydraulic lifting mechanism has been fitted on the right side of the vehicle, just behind the cab. Ladders, lights and indicators complete the rear section of the vehicle body. The ladders are PE and can be found in railway siding sets from model railway shops. That's it for now. Time to do more work on those axles! Thanks for all the supportive comments. Mike
  20. 1 point
    Not necessarily: the standard boxes with the PE parts will be more expensive for sure, but the weekend edition boxes that will follow are likely to be priced similarly. The Fw.190D weekend edition can be found around £12 so I'd expect the Spitfire will sell for a similar figure. Still, buying both is the right way to go: one can never have too many Spitfires !
  21. 1 point
    Well, finally got round to making the plinth. Just waiting for Adrian to come back from Malaysia to sign it.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Oh yeah....you say that now. I'm avidly following that thread of yours - just like everyone else with any pretensions to scratch stuff. Oh - not to mention that it's a darned good read. Steve
  24. 1 point
    Awww... And there's me thinking you were gonna paint it in the 2001 Mugello colours. Ah, go arn... You know you wanna.
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  27. 1 point
    Awesome build and photography! Would it be ok if I ask what photography set up you're using? Those pics are epic!
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    5,600+ views Frankly I'm just a lot amazed, thought this would just be a "in thing" for a few. Thanks for watching all of you. Anyway, a few days of "no post"ing behind me and some progress again, at last you say I've been working at the props, as Nobby implied correctly no easy task Each blade needs to be 72º round the spinner from its neighbours, so marking out and attempting to drill has been one of those-things-to-do. Here is the spinner being mrked off for the blades It'snot dead centre here, but was when drilled Making blades isnt easy either, I'm thinking of making one good prop then moulding a few off the blank if it comes out nicely The blade shape isnt easy either, took a while to get the shape sorted, which means that I will probably not use these ones I have a plan C for these heres my home brewed F4 drop tank nose spinner being checked against my reference photographs, that is the quite complex blade shape I'm aiming for I have been busy on other things too, struts have been fitted as well as the new Milliput roof rubbed smooth, sorry about the crap picture, when I took this and its buddies I had too much exposure set on the new, bloody complicated camera. I think I have cracked it now and some later pictures might be better but for now... The strut under the starboard wing had to be reset after judging it on screen, a brilliant thing aboiut model photographhery. you can call up the image there and then and sort the glitches magic In other news I have finally, at long last got some scratched up seat belts that look reasonable, eureka etcetera Here's one of the driver's seats awaiting its armrests, ready to bung in the office. I even managed a reasonable length of adjustment strap to hang off the buckle adjusters. They look OK in real life, here in magnavizzion they look awful Trust me A blob of silver at the belt ends shows as the buckle in real life, it will have to do. I'm all belted out Here is the office pretty well fully furnished, I made the twin control yokes to add to the prefinished floor, centre throttle, props and trim controls console. All finished off and fitted in, here with the seats too. Armrests now in place too Now the exposure has been set better, this is what you see I've added the canopy roof section with tape, just for a look and the front wheel is in place now, so this is basically how she looks tonight Of course there is lots of detail fettling to complete but this at last looks like I might have a Sherpa coming along One amusing fact, 'cos I'm up for a mickeytake, even on me I spent ages trawling the 'tinternet looking for decent nose wheel layout pictures Then while looking at my buildboard I realised I already had the best I have seen, stuck onto a sheet of hardboard from thirty years ago What am I like huh Priming soon, already masked the port side crewdoor for its first colour coat. The yellow tapey splodge seen here More fun and games with the props now, fingers crossed for me please chaps bill
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Some really nice big scale work happening here! Nice to see some variety in the markings too! Cheers,
  33. 1 point
    You call these old things?? They look superb!!!!!! My opinion is, that they belong to a museum. I don't dare to ask what you do with the rest of your models. Cheers Sernak
  34. 1 point
    Very nice indeed which camera?
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Irnbru? Must get some more of that then..
  37. 1 point
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  43. 1 point
    The conclusion I've come to is that it must be something they put in the beer. that's the only explanation that makes sense to me. Arkady, you make it look so straightforward, but your results are always stunning. Keep up the good work Chris
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Really nice build and you would never know that your last build was 30 years ago. Particularly like the even sheen, not too glossy. It also shows what a great little kits the ESCI early Harrier series is, when built with care like this.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Now that's beautiful, great pictures too. It's making me want to dig my Fujimi one out now
  48. 1 point
    Amazing talent that you have been blessed with...I just love your work....and even better going through it with you step by step......a brilliant forum to be part of
  49. 1 point
    Good grief Nick! That's amazing work!! I started on page one and had a moment. This progressed to then very quickly became I thought "Wow! I'd love to build that!" This was almost instantly followed by "Don't be stupid, you don't have the patience and it would drive you insane!" I'm really looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
  50. 1 point
    clearly the people posting in this thread do. You don't that's clear, but did it warrant the post.
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