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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/23/2012 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi All This is the latest kit I have managed to finish. The good old Hasegawa Hurricane llc. This is the super detail version that came with resin seat, wheels, landing flaps. I have added, CMK Control Surfaces MDC Sea Hurricane conversion Pavla Canopy Quickboost Exhausts Aeromaster Hurricanes at War 1 Xtradecal RAF Black Letters Painted with acrylics Hopefully (with a lot of help from fellow Britmodellers) I have managed to get the codes correct. Anyway on to the pics. Hawker Sea Hurricane llc 'Nicki' - 835 Sqn - HMS Nairana 1944 Thanks for looking Skids
  2. 2 points
    Hello, for many years I dreamed of visiting the Donington Collection, but it is to far away from my home so I must organize my own show: John-w’s Motor Show, “The golden age of motor sport” Here are some photos from my show: John-w
  3. 2 points
    Hi all, Just finished this Kit. The overal fitting of the Kit was pretty good and easy to build !! Kind regards Peter The real thing n Action on the Libanon War 1982 Thank you for looking this Site Peter
  4. 2 points
    Hello all. I thought that, after being a member for a quite few years, it's about time I posted something. I've just finished this for a former 74 Sqn pilot and thought I'd like to share it with you all. Tamiya kit, obviously (not as good as it's been bigged up to be, in my view); Avionix (formerly Black Box) cockpit; Aires jet pipes; Flightpath Sidewinders and Houchin; some American company's gun, who's name escapes me; scratchbuilt ladder, chocks and one or two other little bits. Anyway, enough spiel, here are the pictures, if I can get it to work! Please feel free to criticise, as it's by no means perfect. Thanks for looking. Stew
  5. 2 points
    Here is a couple of photos of my Short Stirling Mk.V using the airfix kit and a Magna Models conversion set. The two photos look like two different models, but they are the same model, just one was taken using flash and the other without. It is actually Dark Green/Ocean Grey with Azure blue undersurfaces.
  6. 2 points
    I was suspended for 30 days ,I did the crime I did the time. He hassnt lost anything other then to write on the site .He can still read it. Use the time to do more modelling and bide the time when its up he can come back. Just like we all do.
  7. 2 points
    Hi folks Today a small update ... masked details on the fuselage. And here is the result after removing the tape. To be continued ... Jan
  8. 1 point
    Revell have announced a Gannet T5 for release early in 2013. Anyone know if its a re mould of their lovely AS version. Maybe the Trumpeter kit?
  9. 1 point
    Hi Im Spanish, so sorry for my english. I like to share with you a tipical british airplane i did during 7 months, i injoyed this project a lot. Thnks to see the images Bye If want to see all images here: http://maquetas.mforos.com/353330/10873837-bae-buccaneer-1-72-airfix/ If want to see the work in progress here: http://maquetas.mforos.com/1165098/10755488-bae-buccaneer-1-72-airfix/ Thanks to all!
  10. 1 point
    At this time I´m with this one on the table. Now is time to work with the decals. I enjoy a lot this new Airfix kits.
  11. 1 point
    Sorry about the rather poor photo, not got the best camera in the world!!
  12. 1 point
    USS Enterprise-D 1:1400 scale Round 2 Models In 1986, work began on a new Star Trek television series (The Next Generation). It was originally to be set one hundred years on from the events in the original 60’s show, although that was later reduced to eighty five years on. In December of 86, Andrew Probert was hired as the senior illustrator and was to be chiefly responsible for designing the interiors of the new starship Enterprise. To help serve as inspiration, he brought along some illustrations he’d made some years earlier (just for his own amusement), of a futuristic version of the Enterprise, designed the way he thought it should look. He was bothered by a number of things on the original Enterprise, not least of which was the mish-mash of design cross-sections. He attempted to unify his design by going with a sculpted ovoid theme. One day, David Gerrold (one of the producers) walked into Probert’s office and happened to spot the illustrations hanging on his wall. He was so taken with the design, that he leaned over and plucked one of the pictures off the wall. He took the illustration straight to Gene Roddenberry, who (as luck would have it) was in a meeting with two of the other producers. Gerrold returned to Probert’s office around 15 minutes later and announced that they all liked it and the design had been approved. Probert was astounded. He’d never heard of a design being approved so quickly. He knew all too well how many revisions and changes that the Refit Enterprise had gone through, before that had been given the go ahead. Roddenberry had asked for only two alterations. He wanted the rear of the nacelles lengthened slightly and requested a bridge be located in the centre of the upper saucer (Probert had his buried deep within the saucer, out of sight). All that was required was some fine-tuning. Several effects companies were contacted and asked to tender bids to build the new ship and film a catalogue of library effects shots. One of those companies was Industrial Light and Magic (ILM), who happened to be between jobs at the time. They put in a low, bare-bones bid in order to keep their doors open and the required staff engaged. Their bid was accepted and they were given 12 weeks to build 2 differently sized models of the Enterprise. For distance shots, a small 2 foot long model was required, but the main focus was to be on a 6 foot long studio miniature. Working closely with Andrew Probert, a team of ILM modellers, headed by Greg Jein, were given the task of building the big model. Probert supplied Jein’s team with a full size (6ft) blueprint of the ship. A series of sectional cross-members were created from plexi-glass and were then laid down over the blueprint. Styrofoam was used to bridge the gaps between the cross-members and then the whole thing was skinned with car body filler. Once smoothed out, thin vinyl lining tape was used to create the surface detail. The tape was laid out in the required pattern and then several coats of primer were applied over the entire surface of the model. The tape was then pealed up, revealing recessed panel lines and windows. Once detailed, the completed parts were used as masters, to produce silicone rubber moulds. Casts were then made, using clear glass reinforced plastic. The pilot episode script called for a saucer separation sequence, so this had to be taken into account from the beginning. The ILM shop came up with a machined aluminium armature strong enough to support the weight of the complete ship, but also allow the saucer to be detached when required. It had enough built in mount points to enable the entire ship or it’s separate components to be filmed from any angle that may be required. Once the clear cast body parts were attached to the armature and the joins cleaned up, attention then turned to the paint scheme. Probert was very specific with the colours he wanted to go with, even down to supplying FS numbers for the paints. He watched the visual effects shots from the original series and noted that (on screen) the original Enterprise often appeared to be a light blue-grey shade, sometimes with a distinctly green hue. He wanted to replicate that look, to help tie the new series to the old. To achieve it, he came up with a sky blue base colour and then added an Aztec pattern of duck egg blue. However, when filmed under studio conditions, with the intense floodlights, the colour washed out and on screen it appeared an overall light grey shade. The ILM modellers were not happy with the level of detail that came across, either and given more time, they would like to have added more definition to the hull plating, in order to cast some shadow and create a certain amount of depth to the surface panelling. They were out of time though and the miniature was delivered as it was. A smaller, more detailed 4 foot model was built during season 3 of TNG and this would become the main filming miniature from then onwards, with the added bonus that it was lighter and much easier to handle. The big 6ft model was still needed, however. The smaller model was built as one piece, with no capability to separate the saucer. The series 3 finale/series 4 opener (The Best of Both Worlds) called for the Enterprise to attack a Borg cube, with it’s saucer detached, so the big Enterprise was pulled out of storage, once more. It’s final on screen outing was for the movie, Star Trek: Generations. Although the smaller 4 ft model was more detailed, it was just too small to be filmed for the big screen. The 6ft model was pulled out of mothballs and was given a complete strip down and makeover. There was plenty of damage that needed repairing and it was completely re-wired. Most notably, the ILM modellers finally had the chance to redo the Surface detail. She was given a new paint scheme, which was much more blue dominant and the panelling was enhanced by using varying gloss and matt panels, so when light was shot across the surface, the hull plating really jumped out. With her film career over, the big Enterprise-D was sold at auction, in 2006. Microsoft’s co-founder, Paul Allen acquired the model with a winning bid of $500,000 and placed it in his Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame, based in Seattle. The kit AMT originally released their 1:1400 scale Enterprise-D kit right around the time that the series premiered in the late 80’s. During the 90’s, AMT began reissuing some of their sci-fi kits with electronic extras. The Imperial Star Destroyer, the Deep Space 9 space station and the Enterprise-D were all issued with a fibre optic lighting kit (which was also available separately). I actually built the fibre optic Enterprise, shortly after it’s release in 1995. While the light kit was perfectly usable, it wasn’t ideally suited to the Enterprise-D. The warp engines and the deflector looked very impressive, but I was always disappointed with the appearance of the windows. The D features uniquely shaped lit windows, like an elongated oval. So while the fibre optics suited the Star Destroyer and DS9 station, with their small pin point of light windows, on the Enterprise they just didn’t look right. If you wanted to light the kit, the only way to accurately portray the look of the studio model, was to drill out each individual window. Years ago, Finscale Modeler magazine printed a feature on lighting the AMT kit, by a modeller named Shawn Marshall. On his model, he drilled a hole to mark the position of each window which was to be opened. He then thinned the plastic behind the window, using a Dremel tool. Additional holes were then drilled, at the top and bottom of each window. Then it was a matter of joining the holes up, cleaning up the edges and trying to keep it all looking symmetrical. Now, multiply this procedure by a thousand or more (the number of windows which would need to be opened) and you begin to see the mammoth task required to light the kit. Now though, thanks to Round 2, we have a much easier option. They have re-released the AMT kit, but instead of issuing it in the same blue plastic of the previous releases, they have taken a leaf out of ILM’s book and chosen to mould it entirely in clear styrene. This means that once built (with your preferred method of lighting installed) and painted, you simply scrape the paint away from the windows you wish to be lit. Exactly the same method the ILM modellers used on the studio miniature. The kit arrives in their customary Star Trek style box. Lifting off the lid, we are not confronted with a huge amount of parts, however the main pieces of the ship are quite large, so it’s a fairly tight squeeze in there. One nice touch is that the parts are supplied in several bags and where there are multiple pieces or sprues to a bag, Round 2 have put protective foam paper sheets in between, in order to prevent scratching to the surfaces. We are supplied with 37 parts, all in clear styrene, as well as 4 large sheets of decals. The moulds seem to be holding up really well, as there is no evidence of flash on the kit parts and aside from being transparent, they appear to be identical in quality to the model I built back in the 90’s. The surface detail consists of recessed panel lines and windows, raised lifeboat hatches and phaser strips and very fine raised lines marking out the hull plating. I know there are modellers out there who don’t care for these raised plating details, but personally I don’t think they negatively impact on the overall appearance. In fact, I feel that they add a certain amount of visual interest to what would otherwise be a fairly flat, featureless surface (much like the original studio miniature). Obviously, if you decide to light this kit, it is going to determine the order in which you assemble the model, so just for the purposes of this review, I’ll follow the construction sequence as shown in the instructions. Predictably enough, we begin with the saucer. It is split into upper and lower halves, which is pretty standard when it comes to Starfleet hardware. The upper half has the shuttle bay added to the inside and the bridge module is fitted into a recess on top of the saucer. The 2 halves can then be joined together. The Captains Yacht is a 2 part assembly which fits into another recess, located on the bottom of the saucer. This recessed hole also doubles as a mount for one of the stands supplied with the kit, should you wish to display the saucer separated from the Battle Hull. A test fit of the saucer halves reveals a very good join, with no warpage present. On the studio model, there are lines of black windows running around the extreme edge of the upper and lower saucer. AMT have these moulded onto the lower half of the saucer, but for some reason they are missing on the upper half. On my previous build of the kit, I used a Pentel 0.5mm technical pen and simply drew the windows in, using the lower saucer as a guide. Incidentally, this pen came in very handy, as I also used it to colour the unlit windows around the whole of the ship. Actually, I do seem to remember going through 2 of these pens, such is the number of windows present. Stage 2 of the instructions deals with the Battle Head/neck area. This is broken down into 3 main components. The Battle Head itself, plus left and right dorsal halves. The rear side of the head has 2 smaller shuttle bays added on the inside and the impulse engine grille is attached from the outside. Then the 3 main parts can be assembled. Some test fitting of the 2 dorsal hull halves revealed a slight step along the forward edge. It appears to be the lower locating pin which is pulling it out of alignment, so it would probably be a good idea to either enlarge the hole on the opposite side, to allow some adjustment, or just remove the pin altogether. The only other comment to make here is that, because of the shape of the dorsal pieces, some of the detail gets a little feint, right up inside the curved area. It’s not really surprising when you consider the limits of the moulding process back when it was first tooled, but it’s something to bear in mind. A good magnifier would come in useful when either painting or scraping the windows inside that curve. Step 3 deals with the Engineering hull. The instructions show adding the Battle Head to the upper hull half, first. Then the deflector housing is glued in place, followed by the dish, itself. The lower hull has 2 stand mounts marked on the inside. The instructions go through which one you should open up, depending on whether you decide to mount the saucer separately or build the ship fully assembled. Obviously, that big saucer hanging off the front of the ship affects the centre of gravity quite dramatically. Once you’ve taken your pick of display options and opened the appropriate hole, the 2 hull halves can be joined. On the lower half of the hull, the tractor beam emitter is attached, although truthfully, I’d leave this off until final assembly as it’s a tiny little piece that’s likely to get knocked off. As with the saucer, there are more little black windows lining the edge of the secondary hull, but this time they are missing altogether. Again, on my old model I drew them on with a Pental pen, using some still shots of the ship as reference. The next step deals with the assembly of the warp engines. Each unit is constructed from 5 parts. The upper and lower halves of the nacelles come together, trapping the forward Bussard scoop and the left and right halves of the warp engine grilles. It’s very straight-forward and there shouldn’t be any problems here. Personally I like that all these parts are now all supplied in clear. The older model included transparent red bussard scoops and blue warp grilles. To me, that always gave the model a very toy-like appearance, that I just didn’t like. Now it’s possible to tint these pieces, (dark copper for the grilles and a dark grey for the scoops) so when you switch the lights off, you can accurately replicate a powered down look. Step 5 adds the completed warp engine nacelles to the Engineering hull. The only thing to watch out for here, is the alignment. Specifically, the right engine. If fitted as is, it seems to have an inherent tendency to lean inboard. My old one was like it. I’ve seen several build-ups on line which were the same and this one is no different. It’s an easy enough fix though, just requiring shaving down the sides of the tab on the top of the warp pylon and then, using a knife to scrape out a little material from the inside of the connection slot, in the bottom of the nacelle. This slackens the fit and gives you some movement to straighten the engine out. Step 6 deals with final assembly. The saucer section and Battle Hull are brought together. There is a large pin moulded in the lower saucer connection point. It’s meant to allow the saucer to be removable, but it looks a little weak, to me. As I mentioned, the saucer is quite heavy and I don’t know that the pin will be sufficient to hold it in place, without cement. The 3 shuttle bays have their exterior doors added and the saucer has it’s 2 impulse engines glued in place and that’s it as far as construction is concerned. Attention then turns to painting, or more relevantly, decaling. Round 2 have supplied 4 large sheets of decals, which not only cover the ships markings and registries, but also the complex Aztec pattern which adorns the entire surface. Aside from a small amount of detail painting, such as the shuttle bay doors, phaser strips and some areas around the engines, all that needs to be done is lay down your base colour and then add the plethora of detailed Aztec panels over the top. The decals themselves look beautifully printed, with registry appearing spot on (which is infinitely better than the old sheet). The detailing is superb, even down to the little numbering stencils on each of the lifeboat hatches. The colours look to be based on the ship as it appeared in the movie Star Trek: Generations, although it might just be me, but the blue Aztec decals do look a little on the dark side.It might be an idea to go with a slightly darker basecoat, to help blend them in. If you want to replicate the Enterprise as she appeared in TNG, you will either have to paint the pattern or source an alternative set of aftermarket decals. The instructions give colour call-outs for Testors model Master paints, but they also give the correct names for the important colours, too (Light Ghost Grey, Gunship Grey etc), so it shouldn’t be difficult to come up with alternatives. Conclusion AMT’s Enterprise-D has always been a very nicely detailed kit, that goes together fairly easily and produces a large and impressive looking model. Round 2 note in the instructions that the whole raison d'être for this “special release” was to benefit the modeller who chooses to light their model. I have to say, if you want to build a fully lit Enterprise, then this kit really is the best option to achieve it. Add to that, those lovely decal sheets and this really becomes a great package, that I have no hesitation in recommending. The way Round 2 describe this as a special release makes me think that this clear version won’t be around for long, so if you want one, I’d suggest grabbing it while it‘s readily available. I have a feeling that once out of production, they will start commanding premium prices on sites like Ebay. The next release to get the clear styrene treatment from AMT will be the Deep Space 9 space station, which will also come with a new “little” (in scale) Defiant model. Then I believe the Reliant will be the next clear kit. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  13. 1 point
    Can't post a link chaps but I'm sure some of you will have had an email from them giving us a sneak peak of this. Here's a screen cap of it..
  14. 1 point
    Gents, Got a pass out of work so my lovely Fiancee, and my mate Simon went over to Wales as it looked like a nice day over there. We drove through some of the worst rain we had seen in a while (so I was told, I was alsepp in the back of the car from Birmingham to Welshpool!); once we got to Wales, the rain stopped and we were greeted with some decent weather all day. Not the best of shots, but we got some decent traffic through We did have a C-130J through but I have not had time to do those shots yet! So all in all an 18 hour day, 400 mile round trip and 10 passes by some of the RAF's finest - a good day in my eyes - it is just a shame the 7 - 9 F-15E's did not come down to play. I have one more days leave to take before the end of the year so I should be back again soon!
  15. 1 point
    No, it was one of the runners up in the "name the re-winged version" contest, along with Valiant and Victor (as well as Vader, but that was rejected as being too far ahead of its time). bob
  16. 1 point
    I want one, can I have one now please! I did say please and it's my birthday soon... ...ish, anyway, did I mention, can I have one, now please! I did say please and it's my ... anyway, I want one, no maybe two, or three, or four... ...can I have some please? Wez
  17. 1 point
    http://i1359.photobu...xfriend/001.jpg This is to go with the other photo as I have not got the hang of downloading more than one at a time!! Any comments on the model will be welcomed. Personally I am pleased with the way the scratchbuilt larger nacelles turned out.
  18. 1 point
    Rick, I've used it for my recent P51's and my Spitire 22 with no problems at all.
  19. 1 point
    You can't post a nice looking Spit often enough in my opinion!
  20. 1 point
    Bobs just grumpy Jasman - cus he wont get one in the States for ages!!! Hell, Id be grumpy too if I knew there were 1/48th 2 stage griffon Spits but a mere 3000 miles away. cheers Jonners Though its the first I've seen of the box art, and Bob will be pleased to see theres a Swedish "nitton" option too, as am I.
  21. 1 point
    Hiya Folks, Another from my latest batch, here is the Airfix 1/72nd Hurricane Mk.IIc converted into a PRU.IIc of 3 PRU(India) wearing the dark `Bosun Blue' colour scheme also used over N.Africa. To prevent it from being mistaken for a Japanese aircraft the B Type roundels above and below the wings have received a yellow ring. The real aircraft was well worn, patched and stained and I`ve tried to replicate this and the camera was made from a piece of sprue while the kits short propeller blades were replaced by some from the spares box. A Heller sliding cockpit canopy was retrieved from a very old model and added in the open position after the underlying area of fuselage had been sanded. Hope you like it, All the best, Tony O
  22. 1 point
    Chris, your last comments deserve an outright ban! Firstly, to play the 'Danny Nightingale' card is way out of order (incidently, in 1983 I had to arrest one of my own guys for a very similar situation) . Secondly, 'not offering an opinion that differs from the owners' - if you check the thread, the majority of us disagree with you and we are definitely not owners Stop whinging, let Kallisti serve out his suspension quietly and look forward to welcoming him back when he returns. Now let's get back to discussing modelling for the benefits that this forum was designed. Mike not a happy hector
  23. 1 point
    Sean, you just keep on improving! Brian.
  24. 1 point
    Looks great, really nice weathering....
  25. 1 point
    Now that's some proper metal. Lovely weathering and detailing, it's a cracking kit eh? Also who does the Sherman? I've not come across any with interior details before. I bought the unit several years ago when I'd just started working, ahh the days of low digs and disposable income. Shame really since my skills were nowhere near developed enough to make something decent out of it. I may have to pull it apart and re-do it. That's why I love this place, inspiration calls wherever you look.
  26. 1 point
    Hello Very work and very clean ..
  27. 1 point
    I think it's due very soon, perhaps the next month or so. Personally I'd get the Academy special edition Warspite as it has everything you need to make a superb model.
  28. 1 point
    I regret selling this kit! Looks superb!
  29. 1 point
    Great job! Where did you get the seat belts, are they british (RAF) or US ? I wanted to build another one of these but could not find any PE seat belts. Nice work.
  30. 1 point
    well a small update on the FGR2. The build is going very well, but unfortunalty my computer has died so i have had to take it in for repair, so will be without it for a week or so. Anyway i'll keep going a document with my camera as i go, and i will resume the W.I.P as soon as i can. Thanks to everyone who has shown some interest, and keep watching this space. Martin
  31. 1 point
    Very,very nice looking Mustang !! Superb finish and weathering !! Peter
  32. 1 point
    The rules are there and they are clear. The moderators cannot be seen to show any favouritism (nice guy v bad guy, mate v stranger etc.,). It doesn't help when 'others' try to circumvent the rules, by attacking these decisions or by trying to drum up support from the wider community in an obvious sympathy trawl. Personally (if I had been suspended), I would be mortified if I found someone had exacerbated the situation by publicising it in an 'Open Letter'. This minor issue has now been elevated to a greater significance, due to this thread, and it is this which will be remembered, long after the original issue has been forgotten. Mike former member of armed forces for 24 years. Also a regular contributor to H4H
  33. 1 point
    Great job there HL-10. Like it, like it a lot.
  34. 1 point
    I'm not going to comment on the rights and wrongs of this. But I will just say: do remember that this forum is private property. This means that the owners' decision (they're not just moderators) is final. Whatever happens as a result of this thread starting, I hope we can accept it under the principle that if we want to swim in someone else's pool, we have to live by their rules, even the one about heavy petting. And that means not complaining as though we've been fundamentally wronged. I'm really not sure that a public thread is the best way to pursue this. It's already turning into a petition and then an argument, whatever the original intention. If I owned the forum I would not take it well (so it's probably a good thing that I don't own one!)
  35. 1 point
    I have to agree with the last 3 posts, the rules are there for a reason and they have been broken however innocently. Is it not best to just take it on the chin and accept it? Then he can get back into the fold older and maybe slightly wiser.........Smudge
  36. 1 point
    Here is my second attempt at building the Revell Hawk. Thank you for the kind comments on the WIP thread, they all help keep the old modelling juices flow.. And some with its 'sister'... For those that are interested I have used/done the following to complete it.... Plus Lowered the Flaps, Added Archers Rivets (88015) to the tail cone area, elevators and flaps, and stressed skin behind the canopy. Scratch building included redoing all the pipework in the main undercarriage bays as well as adding pipework to all hydraulic rams and airbrake bay. The Canopy received MDC firing units, MDC Manual Firing Handles, Air Conditioning Pipework, Opening handles and release cable. The Ejection Seats were 'lowered' and Games Workshop 'Green Stuff' used to make seat cushions and back supports. F700 Bag and Seat 'tops' fashioned from thin plywood, Thick CA and Tinfoil. Added some 'interest' pipework to cockpit as well as LP cock and anti-g valves. Also a Map Bag and sight cover for the rear seat .....and a new Gun Barrel! For AM stuff, I used parts from the Eduard Interior (32699) and Exterior (32277) sets as well as Kuivalainen Seat Belts (KP32002) and Instruments (KP32001). Decals are Xtradecal (32031 & 32023), RBF flags from Verlinden, Master Pitot Probe and Flightpath CBLS's. Pylons were from The Modelworks. Finished using Xtracrylic coated with Alclad Semi-Matt. Weathered with Flory Dark Dirt wash and Tamiya soot powder. Needless to say this will be my last 1/32 Hawk as I don't think the Blood Pressure and/or wallet will take another........unless I can be persuaded by the Kinetic 100 variety......... (and I don't mean the Lanc!)
  37. 1 point
    Nice.but not as good as Stews Phantom. Be prepared to lose again in 10 years when he finish's another model! Chris
  38. 1 point
    Very VERY nice job. I've built this one, it was a real challenge getting those wing fillets right and you've done an excellent build. For £15 for a big spit it's a steal!
  39. 1 point
    Excellent work young man. You certainly have very advanced skills. Keep it up. Regards, Monty
  40. 1 point
    ONLY NINE!!!!! Your not trying hard enough, just have a look around this forum and see how many some have....... I felt bad at about 70, until I saw people with over 700!!!!! My Farther asks me what model he should buy because, as he says, I'll inherit his stash and I say to him, "Ask my Lad cause he'll inherit it from me!". Keep, spending.......... Rick.
  41. 1 point
    Great little diorama, really captures the period
  42. 1 point
    I know the kit has some shape issues, but it has scrubbed up extremely well! Martin
  43. 1 point
    I have (I belive) the same old revell kit, hope it turns out as well as yours. Doubt I'll opento cowling though. Great work.
  44. 1 point
    Hi Duncan Thanks for the comments Re the Model Air Paints: I think it depends on the colour, some I have are fine out of the pot, others need a bit of thinning; It could just be the age of the paint inside, afterall we don't know how long the pots have been stored at the retailers/distributors?? One thing I always do though is send a couple of drops of thinner down through the airbrush to wet the inside and the needle, not sure if this is proven to help but I do find it clogs less if I do. HTH Regards Tim.
  45. 1 point
    Believe what you want but it is a fact about that particular article. In retrospect maybe the title SHOULD have read 'FleetS Air Arm' but if you feel so strongly about the whole thing maybe you should email the editor Jay Laverty.
  46. 1 point
    Well things are going great with this kit....the entire lower hull has fitted together perfectly including the sides and keel. I am really happy with the way it is going. I have also fitted and glued in place the flight deck (which is still not 100% perfect), but better than it would have looked with the last kit. I will be working on painting and constructing the superstructure in preparation for attaching to the flight deck after I have masked off and painted all of the different areas of the hull in the different colours. I was going to attempt to salvage the faulty kit, but after looking at it with a view to removing the sides and refitting them if at all possible, they are so badly warped that it is impossible to do so.... pictures will follow tomorrow.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    That's lovely Ian, I think Nascars (well, all cars really!) of that era had so much more character. And when you keep building cars in my favourite colour schemes, I think they're doubly good!! Great model!! Keef
  49. 1 point
    Well, the paints didn't arrive today, so got on with building the etched masts.
  50. 1 point
    I want to do some Hurricanes in 1/72, but every time read a review, they say that kit X is terribly inaccurate. I don't know where to start, or just wait for somebody to bring out a good one.
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