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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/11/12 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi everyone, just finished my 1/48 scale F-5A done as an aircraft of the South Vietnamese Air Force, Bien Hoa, 23rd Wing, 522sq (according to the instructions) Virtually all OOB, only additions include:some extra antenna on the fuselage spine, gun barrels from brass tube and some home made seat straps, I also made some new rear view mirrors as the kit ones went `ping` never to be seen again. Kit went together quite well despite its mutli part fuselage and the decals were great also I managed to choose the one with only one bit of P.E. (phew) hope you enjoy looking at.
  2. 2 points
    Thats it done...phew....not bad for only my 2nd model... RAF Mustang IV with DIY louvered intakes and `firewall` paint scheme. Ryben
  3. 2 points
    Hi, all... this is a Classic British kit box art diorama, built for our CBK stand at SMW this year. Now the wraps are safely off, I can post her up without spoiling the surprise! This is where it all started, with Brian Knights brilliant art work on a Revell UK boxing of the B-26, found in a charity shop for £3. In keeping with the overall theme of the display, I was hooked by the box-art as soon as I saw it, and snapped it up, just as we used to on a Saturday morning when we were kids... I knew I was going to need some smaller Marauders, and some even smaller ships and landing craft... Flak Bait's wingman would be the Academy 1/144 kit, and the smaller one in the background would be a Scotia Grendel 1/300 scale wargaming model. The fleet turned out to be Hallmark 1/1250 wargaming "coastal forces" from Magister Militum aka navigatorminiatures.com Then I got started thinking about the perspective. There's a lot of aircraft "in your face", but not very much land down below. I needed to "force" the perspective in a kind of cone, so that I didn't have to build too much background. I thought around this for quite a while, an eventually came up with the idea of building the base in a flared flower pot... I cut the pot with a hot knife, which was the hardest task of this whole build!. The base is lined with lead flashing to give extra weight, then some expanded polystyrene to socket the stands into, and finally a flat sheet of foam core for the main surface. The beach is artists acrylics, dry brushed, the sea and sky were airbrushed with thinned acrylics. The sea was coated with PVA to make ripples, and the wavetops and wake dry brushed on. The clouds were just sponged on and oversprayed here and there with grey. This is the bit that people always get worried about with dioramas, but the whole thing took about an hour... The Academy B-26 was finished first: It's a lovely little kit. I scratched a bit of a cockpit, with "peg-doll" pilots, and made some props up using James Perrin's artwork, available on the CBK SIG pages of the UAMF forum. The teeny-tiny one was painted with Citadel colours. I went for a "toned down" look, since it is in the background. The base had some "fog of war" added, using cheap acrylic felt from Boyes, pulled up in tufts for the smoke and flame, and fine wire dipped in superglue and microballoons a few times for the watersplashes. And finally... This one is about as close as I can get to the actual box top... The flak burst are more felt strands, supported by very fine stainless steel rigging wire... ...a project I enjoyed very much! Now, normal service will be resumed as I go back to some shiny super cars... bestest, M.
  4. 1 point
    The Decals for this model have been made by myself I have finally got arround to posting some finished pictures of this model here they are The modified engine intake to make it look more rounder Richard
  5. 1 point
    Hi everyone - here's the newest model off the workbench, Hasegawa's reworked F-15E. This kit at last deals with some of the irritating issues associated with the earlier releases (which were no more than a prototype dressed up as a Strike Eagle...) and as such builds up into a very fine model. This one has a superdetailed cockpit, Quickboost seats, an updated weapons fit that include new AMRAAM pylons and connectors, as well as Aires jet pipes. The full story of this model will appear in a future edition of Model Airplane Monthly. I hope that you like it! Spence
  6. 1 point
    Getting models finished lately has been like pulling teeth. Full of much bad language and somewhat unsatisying. Still, since I'm in "time but no money" mode at present (as opposed to "money but no time" when I'm working) I have to keep on with the production line. This is a part of the series of Furies and Sabres I've been doing over the last year or so. I completed a Siga FJ-1 in July and am following it with this Emhar kit. These are reputed to be ex-Matchbox kits that were in motion when the company finally collapsed. They live up to that description pretty well. Some sanding and fiddling will be required to improve fit. I used Xtradecal X72-037 for markings. They depict the CATG of VA-214 as based on the USS Hornet in 1958. I think I rather rushed this one a bit and therefore it isn't one of the better ones. Still, there are many dark corners in my display cases that can accomodate a model like this one. At least it is built, right? This is completed model #413 (#38 for the year), finished in October of 2012. More details, as always, on the 72 Land blog.
  7. 1 point
    Hi all, Monograms old F-14 built with the addition of microscale decals. Brian
  8. 1 point
    I vote for Humbrol 168 as well.
  9. 1 point
    LOL. Nah, it's not that bad! More like four clothes pegs: OK, let me describe the secret to getting these guys to fit properly. First, you can't just put the two halves together and glue. You've got some preliminary work to do. Test-fitting revealed that the width of the forward fuselage (near the intakes) was not the same for the top and bottom pieces. This is no doubt due to the sides moving towards one another after being taken out of the mould. The bottom of the fuselage was considerably narrower (2-3mm) than the top. This is the reason why you can't make the intakes fit to the lower fuselage. What a lot of people have done with the kit is to get the intake trunks to fit on the top and bottom of one side (port or starboard) and then they've got a HUGE mess on the other side, impossible to make it fit, and usually resulting in the top and bottom fuselage pieces "twisted" relative to each other. Here, I think, is a better way: Fit the intake trunks to the lower fuselage first. Make a temporary spreader (I used a 3mm diameter rod) of the correct length to push the fuselage sides out so that the intake trunks fit on both side. (You don't have to trim the bar off the front of the trunks like I did or cut the trunks into two; this is totally unnecessary.) I placed the spreader where the rear of the cockpit would normally be and I used superglue to get a quick bond between the intakes and the bottom fuselage. But don't take the spreader out yet, as the superglue is not strong enough and one side or the other will pop if you do. Instead, with the spreader still in place, use a strong epoxy to make a permanent bond. I put the epoxy on the inside of the fuselage where it meets the intake; I also put a lot in-between the intake trunks and the belly of the fuselage itself. Hey, and while you're at it, glue a bunch of fishing weights inside, too, as I'm quite sure that the Vicky will need it. (Sorry, I didn't take any photos of this part of the process. I hope I've explained it so you can understand it. If not, please ask!) Let the epoxy cure for a day or two and remove the spreader. The fuselage sides are now held apart by the bond with the intake trunks. Now when the top fuselage was test fit, I found the alignment to be reasonably good, and certainly nothing that some filler won't fix. I then attached the top fuselage in the "normal" fashion. You noticed the clothes pegs - these were necessary to get a good bond along the trailing edge of the fuselage. Oh, be sure you locate the cockpit and wheel wells inside the before you seal up the fuselage! So after all of this, I added some filler inside the intakes and along some of the seams, and along the splitter plate and sanded smooth. This was just a couple of hours work. Here is the result (bottom is up in these photos): While I was waiting for the epoxy to dry in the previous exercise, I took the opportunity to re-shape the tops of the tail fins. This is a subtle fix to the kit tail fins which are a bit too flat on top. In this photo, the re-shaped fin is on the left, the original on the right. The area that I worked on was the top at the front of the fin. By the way, the flat airfoil shaped pieces that fit inside the fuselage where the wing fold mechanism would go, along with similar parts that go into the outer wing assemblies, are absolutely required to maintain the correct thickness. This ensures that the match between outer wing and fuselage will be good. More to come - so far, the kit is not living up to its reputation as nearly impossible to build. I know what you're saying - "you're not done yet." But I've built worse! Cheers, Bill
  10. 1 point
    Ive been cursed by Quarky's bad luck with Federation Starships. Upon drilling the hole for the brass tubing stand the ship suffered from a catastrophic structural integrity failure. It almost split completely in half... Its been fixed up and ive used some miliput to secure the tubing in the correct position, crude I know Two 3mm Superbright orange LEDs are secured for the forward torpedo launchers, wired up and then surrounded with insulation tape and aluminium tape to keep the light away from the main deflector. Ive also made another 'light trap' from cardboard and aluminium tape again. The deflector panel is then attached, and the LEDs look like this: For the main reflector I used a 5mm Superbright LED, filed flat to have a wider spread of light. I also made a light trap again from card and aluminium tape like so: And this is the result: Take care guys
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I built one recently and thought it was a really nice wee kit. You've done a lovely job on that one.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Hello everyboby, here you are my latest built,the DASSAULT OURAGAN in the "Patrouille de France" (french acrobatic team) in 1956. This is the Valom kit (not so bad) it is more difficult to built than the Heller one! My son (11 years) bult is 2nd kit and it is the fisrt one he used spray...it is the Heller kit of the ouragan in israel scheme. @+ Thierry
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Col, it's a good kit, and with acrylic paints you can make good progress in a day of effort. The gloss coat is drying right now, Wednesday should see me laying down some decals. Dan
  16. 1 point
    Hi guys, the build begins..HORRIDO!!!......... basic pit built up.. great detail, to me its got the edge over Eduards E's.. Andy.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I would try lacquer thinner. If your airbrush has some rubber O rings, it is better to remove them first, they do not like being soaked in lacquer thinner. best, Christian.
  19. 1 point
    Jens is correct - the Testors airbrush thinner works well also. Regards, Jason
  20. 1 point
    Thank you so much - I'm really pleased that you like the magazine so much! I tried as hard as possible to create something that was more tradition in its outloook and it is pleasing that you are happy with the results! Hi Guys! Thank you very much for taking an interest in my new magazine, It’s great to know that so many people like the idea and want to see what I’m up to! You enquired about purchasing issue 1: here’s what you need to do. The magazine costs £8 with an additional charge of £1.50 in the UK, £3.30 in Europe and £4.40 over the rest of the world, to cover the cost of postage. In order to pay for this, you will need access to a Paypal account as this is the only way that I’m able to take payments at the moment. If you have, my Paypal account is spencer.pollard@btinternet.com You can deposit the funds directly into that account and also leave your full address details. As soon as the magazine is back from the printers I will send your copy over to you! Thanks once again and have a very nice evening. I look forward to hearing from you again! All the best - Spencer Pollard
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Dave. Well I wouldn't call it a pig. Maybe a piglet. I've built worse, and will do so again (Xkit and FM comes to my mind) There isn't such a thing as a un-buildable kit i reckon. Every kit can be built. It just takes different degrees of blood sweat and tears to get them together. But when taking on a short-run kit you know before that you're in for trouble. And I didn't expect this from a brand new kit from 2012. But when the A-version comes out I'll know better what to expect. Hopefully this will look like a F-35B when it's done. /Bosse
  22. 1 point
    Right made a start on the nose bands today And got a bit of the thunderbird masked and painted i just need to get the birds body/tail done, and the blue nose band. then it'll be time to sort the gear bays and mount the legs
  23. 1 point
    The main problem with the kit nozzles is that they are too long by about 6 mm, and the extend too far behind the hook fairing and the kink in the tail fin support booms. The Cutting Edge nozzles are cropped versions of the Tamiya parts (they even feature the same chamfered ends as the kit to make them look thinner). The Two Mikes nozzles look better, but personally I expect more of an improvement for £30... The Flightpath nozzles and exhausts...has anyone successfully managed to get these built up and made them look good? They seem awfully fiddly to say the least. I have the same kit in the stash for a rainy day or when Aires makes a set of exhausts. Jens
  24. 1 point
    It was not so cold today)) Here are some more photos
  25. 1 point
    Maybe life isn't too short going to archive all your pics for a future conversion. Who am i kidding i will wait for the upgrade kit. Like the cockpit work the sa80's carbines are nice touch.
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