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Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/10/12 in all areas

  1. Awful! I'd sooner see the Vulcan kept in a fast taxi condition than painted in a Red Bull scheme!
    2 points
  2. Hi all, this is my latest finished model, its T-33A, academy kit. OOB, only PE seatbelts. cya, Otis :-)
    1 point
  3. Hello all. I wanted to do something quick and easy while my Stranraer rested a while, so I chose this. I had done one of these in the original guise way way long ago (pre July 1967 if I remember ok) then did the updated version in the early '80s and thought it was okay, and was rather refined in comparison to the previous kit. Well, I had read in various places that this was not a good kit, so I decided to see if I had been remembering with rose tinted glasses. I got the starter kit, and the first thing I found was that the transfers were not as good as recent Airfix kits, the roundels were quite badly out of register, especially the yellow bordered ones for the fuselage. I had thought originally to add the Airwaves etch set to this kit, but Hannants were out of stock, so that is when I decided to go back to basics, and just do an OOB build. I succeeded reasonably well, only having three or four (or maybe 5) additions/replacements to the box contents. I put tape seat harness on, added some plastic card to cover the seam lines in the intakes at the front of the wings near the fuselage, replaced the aerial pylon with metal rod (should have done it a bit better), used EZ-Line for the first time with the aerials, and chose a different colour scheme, courtesy of the Special Hobby Whirlwind I got in May from our club show. The replacement fuselage roundels came from a Revell Hurricane, underwing roundels from Modeldecal, codes and serials from Special Hobby and the rest were from the kit sheet. I also used the new formula Pledge as a medium for setting the transfers onto the kit, and it worked well on all four types of transfer. I was very pleased with the EZ-Line, I found that using a small spot of medium CA put where the line was to touch the model, then dabbing the line into CA accelerator gave an instantaneous bond with little mess. Thin CA was not quite as good. The area I had greatest difficulty with was masking the canopy, so maybe I could have some advice? I used Tamiya and Aizu tape, and a scalpel fresh out of its packaging, but found it very difficult to trim the tape. It kept sliding on the canopy. I had buffed it down with a cocktail stick, and was trying to keep my finger on the tape as I cut. Any ideas to help me improve? Overall, I was happy with the kit except for the transfers. If I do it again, I have found a few areas that can be improved (using the Special Hobby model as a guide). I did need filler especially around the cowlings, both at the front and the rear of them, and I think I would try to re-scribe the panel lines. I need practice on that though! Anyway, thanks for looking, and any comments will be appreciated. Kind regards, Ray
    1 point
  4. Well, I've finally managed to finish one! This is the excellent new-tool P-51D mustang from Airfix. I built the kit with a few scratchbuilt parts such as harnesses, wiring and gun barrels. The decals are by Kits-world with Stencil markings and insignias from the kit sheet. For less than the price of two pints this kit has provided me with hours of entertainment, and with so many decal options available I can't wait to build more! I hope you like it. Sean
    1 point
  5. Hello again friends. Now I will show you the second helicopter that I have mounted recently. It is a Eurocopter Tiger HAP of the Spanish Army. It is the model of Revell to a scale of 1/72, mounted directly from the box and without aftermarkets again. This model is easy to assemble and of good quality. Again the photos are a bit faulty, but I repeat that I do them with the mobile phone. Greetings and i hope you like it. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    1 point
  6. This kit has been around a long while from PM models. It makes quickly and easily into an attractive kit and still only about £4-5.
    1 point
  7. Not in bridge order - no wonder us fairies always beat the heavies, it was almost as bad when playing heavies at uckers, two dice with six sides, I thought some of them would expire trying to count that high! No wonder the rules of the game were always on the bottom of the table, it gave them the excuse to upend the table whilst taking their shoes and socks off!! Wez
    1 point
  8. I think you'll find that's hearts, clubs, diamonds and spades.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. nice work..... regards Glenn.....
    1 point
  12. nice scheme.now lets have one at fairford please. glyn
    1 point
  13. Glad this one is back, it was one of my favorite threads. Martin
    1 point
  14. Nice colours on that. Looks great !!
    1 point
  15. Very impressive finish, the weathering and general 'usedness' is excellent. Many congrats.
    1 point
  16. There is a whole series of photos taken at the same time as this one, and in many of them you can see the puddles on the ground. I suspect it had just stopped raining, or in fact it may still have been raining when the photos were taken. I know that's difficult to imagine, the photos being taken in the UK and all, but I'm told by a fairly reliable source that it does in fact rain on rare occasions in the fair British Isles. It's always been severely sunny and pleasant when I've been there
    1 point
  17. Good evening everyone.... This was one of my first goes at multi-media kit. I really like things are kinda off the beaten path. The FR-1 Fireball fit the bill. I "tried" to make it look like a Navy Demonstration Team called the "Firebirds". I like the story of a P-51 pilot having to do a double take because the prop on this plane was feathered and was running entirely on jet power. This kit faught me all of the way. I had what I thought would have been a ton of weight in the front. But alas it wasnt meant to be. Then I realized that I would use the tailhook for it to rest... Comments very much welcome. John
    1 point
  18. At last (I was quietly getting fed-up with that one). Hope you like it, Cheers, S.
    1 point
  19. But the kit keeps coming up in conversation, so if I did post it already, sorry If I didnt, here it is - one Otaki L1011 TriStar, handpainted some time ago now probably one of the rarest kits around now, which is a shame because it's also the best TriStar kit ever made. Apparently Otaki dumped the molds in Tokyo bay as a tax write-off or something. silly chaps!
    1 point
  20. I don't usually show my models, please be kind
    1 point
  21. After a fairly long session, several paint mix attempts and some practice at free-hand airbrushing I have the basic colours on and unmasked: (click for bigger) The camo patches are a bit soft-edged, but I think it was good to attempt them this way and it made it possible to try and get the darker borders visible on some pictures of the real thing. I went for a fairly low-contrast trio of greys since I thought that would suit the scale better. I did look at the Academy instructions for inspiration but ended up picking paints by eye. The light grey is Tamiya Sky Grey, the light metallic is about 50:50 Sky Grey and Titanium Silver, with a blob of Medium Blue to cool down the warm Titanium. Finally the dark grey is one of the IJN greys (the slightly bluer one) plus Titanium and Medium Blue again. I tried some other combinations and the Titanium seemed to have much finer metal flakes than e.g. Flat Aluminium. I was surprised how much metallic paint I needed in the mix for the sheen to register at all - I was expecting something like 2:1 or 3:1 rather than 1:1. The flakes are still visible in close-up, which is a shame but probably unavoidable: The good news is that the intakes look quite nice now! I've been waiting for some sun so I could evaluate the paint with a strong backlight to check the sheen in non-cloudy conditions. It finally arrived this morning, and I think it looks OK. From different angles it's possible to read the metallic light grey as lighter, darker, and close in value to the matt grey edging, which is what I was hoping to capture. The really big question now is how on earth do I apply the decals without either a. silvering or b. spoiling the sheen?? I can see a few options for this - Klear the whole thing, decal and seal as normal, then Dullcote, re-mask the edges, and spray a mist of Titanium and matt varnish? Or try and polish/buff the paint so the decals can go on without Klear, or some combination of these. Bit scared at the moment since it looks pretty nice, but I guess that's normal as you get further into a build I've got some other panels and bits to paint before I need to decal so I'll probably do those in order to put it off... Cheers, Will
    1 point
  22. Well, perhaps a bit earlier than tomorrow then I'm experimenting with a method of doing rivets/screws by hand - only really viable because there aren't too many alterations I'm making. Anyways: The dots were done using the tip of a cocktail stick. From images, the rivets aren't always perfectly evenly spaced along the edge of the panel. To ensure I get the correct distance from the edge of the panel, I'll run a line of masking tape across and will use that in conjunction with the dots to get (hopefully) well positioned rivets. Modelling track for the day is - a suitably hellish track that brightens up painstaking work no end Tim
    1 point
  23. And desperately received a 4 week time out for trying for the fourth time to circumvent the 100 post rule by asking for and trying to sell stuff away from the Buy and Sell area despite being warned not to by the Mod team.
    1 point
  24. Hardly a disaster, probably reaching it's fatgue life, in which case it may well be uneconomic to keep it flying, if it crashed. now that would be a disaster. We all have to remember that any mechanical device has a finite life, and will eventually wear out. We've had several good years of displays from the Vulcan and been lucky to have them, perhaps it's time the old girl had a well earned retirement. Andrew
    1 point
  25. Managed to grab a few hours in the man cave today and.......... Constructed the rear body and wings, the door is only temporary for painting as it will be open when finished. Hoping to use this, (tinfoil pushed on the the zester on my cheese grater!) to make the barracuda. and it turned out ok I think. The green is an under coat that i hope will show through with aid of some hair spray! Thanks for looking Jon
    1 point
  26. Thanks for the kind comments, i was inspired to build it by AndyC's build in the close air support group build, will have to crank up the compressor and blow some exhaust stains on when i can summon up the courage
    1 point
  27. Wonderful Krazyness My Friend: Nice and clean those three builds, my favourite one is the Finnish example, but the other two are nice. I was wondering is you have made also the old Heller model and how it compares with this one. Thank you very much for sharing.
    1 point
  28. Hi A friend of mine have just finished this 1/48 SR-71: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=68877&start=175 Patrick
    1 point
  29. Started work on the aft part of the ship. The white LED strobe is attached in the centre, and the red and green ones are positioned on either side, To be honest, there is probably a far simpler way of me doing this, but ah well The white LED for the rear window is put into place, along with some aluminum tape to help the light spread a little more evenly. The nacelles are then positioned and the wires soldered into their correct points, setting the circuits up as parallel. Ive tried to clean it up as best I can inside using insulation tape. After its all glued together it looks a bit like this: I know, it looks like crap . A fair bit of the primer has come off with the tape i used while the cement dried, that's the price you pay for using crappy cheap primer. Once the model is assembled I will give it another coat so this wont be a problem. This picture is mainly to show the light arrangement.
    1 point
  30. Tanks are'nt my thing, but that's a gorgeous build, and the figures make the whole stand out lovely job Sean
    1 point
  31. My God....that is incredible.....gorgeus work. Congratulations
    1 point
  32. WAOUH! great job I like it very much
    1 point
  33. Beautiful, outstanding models - the kind I aspire to building: intricate and perfectly built and finished.
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. They are amazing models Vitor, I'm looking forward to seeing much more of your work
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. Bloody amazing, thankyou very much for sharing
    1 point
  38. Hi Laurent: yes, i have been change the nose.
    1 point
  39. Really nice, especially in this small scale!
    1 point
  40. Wow, those are REALLY good builds, well done. Your doors look so delicate and well detailed. I have a load of these kits (11 of them). I plan to build some examples as used by the SAAF, the Rhodesian Air Force and also by the Portuguese Air Force when they flew them in Mozambique. I fell in love with the gunship version of the Alouette when two RhAF Alouette gunships flew over us while we were on holiday in Rhodesia. I remember jumping up and down excitedly waving my arms wildly as they flew over and this hand poking out next to the what seemed like a HUGE gun barrel and giving a calm wave in return.
    1 point
  41. * Christian, it also after one Maceda show (a few years ago) that I decide to build the Alouette III * Alex, the Heller kit it's a bit poor but with the Extratech PE and some pacience you can build a nice 1/72 helicopter See the step-by-step and any doubt just ask
    1 point
  42. Hi Vitor, They look amazing. So delicate and yet made from a 'robust' Heller model original. Well done! I was looking at one of these at the Maceda show last weekend and thinking how to go about building one. Now I know! Cheers, Christian the Married
    1 point
  43. (sorry, but I could'nt put the post properly before, now it´s ok) Here some pictures I took of the real machine More step-by-step pictures here: http://www.forum.modelismo-na.net/viewtopic.php?f=109&t=20709&start=0
    1 point
  44. I've used the new "Pledge" Klear for a while. It works fine as a decal sealant and varnish. I can't really comment too much re: dipping canopies, I have used it for this, but tbh I never used the old original "clear" Klear, so I have no benchmark. But the canopies I have tried it on are nice and clear and show no signs of any yellowing... Yet.
    1 point
  45. I'd like to do the Gotha one day, problem would be where to put it! Cockpit it built up now and installed in the fuselage, both halves zipped up. John
    1 point
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