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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/2012 in all areas

  1. Started this one quire some years ago. It is the Airfix 1/72 Bo-105C. Finally found the courage last spring to finalize it in the complex 3 color wrap around scheme. Decals come from Dutchdecal. Paint is Xtracolor and Revell.
    3 points
  2. For the Percival Proctor III of the Dutch Airforce I used the Frog/Novo kit. The kit itself is very basic. It requires some are and attention. Paint comes from Model Master and decals come from Flevodecal.. Thanks for looking
    3 points
  3. Got back into modelling after a 20 plus year gap. i used to build 1/72 and then 1/48 kits of modern jets, the usual mix of aircraft that interests a young aviation fan. Came back thinking of going back to 72 scale but a friend said if I wanted a quick build to have a look at the revell 1/144 range, the detail was amazing, after so long away from the modelling game here was a range and scale that was better then the 72 scale aircraft I built in the past. Anyway I've ended up really liking this scale and have a nice little stash building, the size of these kits is great both on a price level and also on a shelf space level as with two young children its at a premium So here is one of my recent builds the rafale, all comments greatly appreciated, bear in mind all my kits are brush painted (still hoping the kids get me an airbrush for Christmas)
    2 points
  4. Some time ago I started this little kit, it is very fun to build, good fit and a good decal sheet. I allways wanted to do a german one, but a Marinefligger one, until I saw this picture: This meant two things, the first the Starfighter had to be flying and I needed to do the contrails... so how to do this? The contrails had to end somewhere... where? The runway!! Good idea!! That meant that the contrails could support the A/C and be attached to the runway, some good paperclips came to use, those big ones. The rest was was just to enjoy the build... and find a solution to the runway issue... that took more time...the result is this:
    2 points
  5. This is the Heller 1/72 Harvard. In order to make it the Harvard IIB I used the CMR conversion set. Decals come from an ancient Dutchdecal set and the paint comes from Xtracolor. Thanks for looking
    2 points
  6. Italeri kit in 1/48 painted all with vallejo... Great kit... for all recomendation Cheers Roman
    2 points
  7. A kit I built some time ago, did't enjoy building this much. Regards
    2 points
  8. Hi All, A couple of weeks ago my son and I each knocked one of these together in 4 hrs. I decided to rub mine back and repaint in desert colours, inspired by the profiles in the Sep 12 issue of Model Airplane International. It has its faults, but I like it. I realise I haven't put the first aid decal or the pitot tube on. I will do those later. Uppers - Tamiya Desert Yellow. Lowers - Lifecolour RLM78. White - Mr Colour aqueous. Decals - kit decals with the exception of the hakenkreuz which are from a Bergemot set. Weathering - oils and watercolours. Aerial - stretched q-tip; a hint I picked up from HaraldP on this forum. Stand - foamboard with a plasticard edge and shaped clear acrylic rod. I know the markings may not be totally 'authentic' but 'Black 7' is very close to one of the illustrations in MAI. I have photoshopped the hakenkreuz in all but the last photo, so don't scroll right down if you have a personal objection.
    2 points
  9. Hi mates, This started out as an Out-of-the Box build to take a break and not get too carried away. But then I found myself adding very small diameter solder to represent tubing and lines in the cockpit, etc. So much for the OOB idea! This is, of course, the nice new Airfix kit of the A6M2b in the one true scale. Best $7.50 I ever spent! A prerequisite to building any Japanese aircraft model is to spend several hours studying the wealth of information on the web and trying to figure out what colour it should be painted! What a Pandora's Box that is! Yikes! I found what I needed on Nick Millman's blog. I can highly recommend picking up a copy of his "Painting The Early Zero" guide. This model will use the Airfix decals, but the paint scheme will need to be changed slightly. The aircraft represented by the transfers was actually used in training, so the undersides will be yellow-orange, not gray as Airfix states. That should make for an interesting combination with the IJN Dark Green on the top. But first, here's the obligatory shot of the carton: The cockpit is quite well detailed for 1:72 scale, as I'm sure you've read in the reviews. The rear bulkhead has a couple of ejector pin marks that need to be filled and the Euro buck gives you an idea of how small this thing is: The seat has the lightening holes moulded in, but I think they'll look better if they are drilled out. I used Gunze H303 FS34102 for the cockpit green as applied to Mitsubishi-built Zeroes. I added some small wire and solder to represent some piping in the cockpit, and I think it looks busy enough. The kit decals for the instrument panel are quite convincing. I used some 30-year old True Details "generic" Japanese seat harnesses and rudder pedals. Airfix provides a nice way for you to model the Zero with the wingtips folded, Just cut the outer sections away along a panel line, and replace with separate wingtips that have a hinge moulded in. I think that will add some interest, so off with the wingtips! I decided not to do any detailing on the engine, so I assembled it and gave it a quick paint job and wash. The moulding is nice, and there's quite a bit of detail considering it's only three pieces: Once the fuselage was assembled, I sprayed the undersides white, in preparation for the yellow-orange colour. My first thought was to use Gunze H24 Orange-Yellow, so I quickly applied a coat or two. But you know what? It's too orange. I went back to Nick's blog, and found some samples of the C1 through C4 colour chips and a nice photo of a canvas section from a trainer. You can view these at http://britmodeller....showtopic=66239 So now I needed to mix a colour that batter matched that sample. I used 50% Gunze H24 Orange-Yellow and 50% H34 Gunze Cream Yellow. I like this a lot better! To my eye, this is a good match for C2. Straight Gunze H24 is more like C1. I then used Gunze H59 Dark IJN Green on the top side. The number of "scallops" on the yellow-green demarcation line matches a photo of the actual plane, and not the Airfix box art. The cowling is black-blue, which I mixed from Model Master Black and Model Master Bright Blue. After I took the following picture, I decided to extend the black-blue from the cowling over the guns and to the instrument panel. I can't tell if the real plane was like that, but I've seen quite a few pictures of trainers that were. On the bottom, I then applied a lighter version of the yellow-orange on the panels to create some post-shading. Not so easy to see in the photo, but it's easy to see with your eye. I figure I'll give the panel lines a wash too. Next, I wanted to do the same on the top as well. So I sprayed lighter shades of the dark green and the blue-black. Next I'll have to do some clean-up on the wing folds, and spray that area aotake. Rather than use one of the pre-mixed versions of this "colour" (which tend to look like metallic custom car colours) I'll create the aotake by applying a base of Alclad aluminum and overspray with very light mists of Gunze Clear Blue and Gunze Clear Green. I've never done that before, so I guess I should experiment first! That's it for now. This is really a sweet little kit, and it's a far cry from the original Airfix Zero I built about forty years ago. Cheers, Bill
    1 point
  10. After having experienced the BRM engine, for 1968 McLaren bought five Ford Cosworth DFV and a new car was designed by Robin Herd (who left the team to join Cosworth Engineering) and completed by Gordon Coppuck. The aluminium-skinned monocoque tub was shaped over three bulkheads, the structure being an open-topped 'bath-tub' with glass fibre body panelling above the driver's legs and round the cockpit. The bulkheads were complex 20-gauge steel fabricated box-sections, one sited right at the front to carry the front suspension and steering; the internal centre bulkhead provided anchorage for the front suspension trailing links and the rear bulkhead behind the seat carried the fully-stressed DFV engine and provided pick-ups for the rear suspension radius arms. Outboard coil-springs with co-axial Koni dampers were used front and rear. The gearbox was the five-speed Hewland DG. The M7A's brakes were unusual for a British F1 car in being by Lockheed instead of the almost universal Girling set-up. They had produced a new 10 1/2in diameter ventilated disc and caliper. At that time ventilated discs were unusual in F1. McLaren cast four-spoke 15inch magnesium wheels were used. Water cooling was by a large Serck radiator outrigged ahead of the front bulkhead, hot radiator air being exhausted upwards through glass-fibre ducts formed into the very shapely nose body section. Oil-cooling was by radiator stayed above the gearbox, the cylindrical dry sump oil tannk being slung alongside it. Water pipes ran externally either side of the tub. During the 1968 season different experiments were done: 1) Lancia-Ferrari like panniers at Jarama; 2) a right-side only long-range tank and first rear wing at Rouen (like those used at the Canadian and US GPs); 3) short nose at Monaco; 4) engine-cover, different rear wings and front flaps at Spa Other changes will be explained during the WIP. Most of the history was taken from "McLaren - The Grand Prix, Can-Am and Indy Cars" by Doug Nye. For the version of the model my choice is the M7A chassis 3, which McLaren drove to the victory at Spa (Ver.B - K234). This was the first victory in a GP for McLaren driving a car with his own name. Before, the same year, Bruce won the Race of Champion too, but it was a Non Championship Race. THE KIT For me the best Hiro so far. Perhaps some pieces are in excess and a couple of very very little mistakes, but this time MFH did all what there was to do. These are the main body parts: As usual I begin with their fitting-test: Then it's time to rivetting (0.4mm Master Club + 0.5mm ScaleHarware): Finally a mounted again the main body, masking were needed: After Zero Paints painting, decalling and clear coating, here the main body: Now, we can remove the masks: The red arrows show that the chassis was also painted with orange ZP, as they are used at the time: Here the red arrows show where was used Gunze Super Metallic Plate Silver: Finally, the other parts of the chassis were added: The red arrows show the 0.7 mm ScaleHardware Hex-Bolt.
    1 point
  11. Slow beginnings, but I wanted to get the body shells painted so that they can cure properly before final polishing while other work gets under way. The Daytona is Zero's "Blu Dino"; the 599GTO is "Rosso Scuderia", and a matt (ish) black (ish) homebrew for the roof. These will go slowly while I work on some stuff for SMW 2012, but at least I've started! bestest, M.
    1 point
  12. Hi Everyone This is my Revell 1/144 Concorde. It was a pig to build in the fact i broke the wings off once and nose off twice when it tried to fly..... The landing gear where a nightmare as well. Overall i thought it was a rather poor kit, but it does look nice...... The kit is hand painted, theres a few more details to fo, then im done. I have windows on the way from Richw. Thanks Bradley
    1 point
  13. Dit is the Spitfire Mk Vc 167/322 (Dutch) Squadron. For this one I used the Italeri Spitfire Vb as a basis. I used the wings from the Italeri Spitfire IXc. Also needed to swap some parts at the underside of the wings to make the wings a Vc wing. The fron part of the fuselage requires some attention in order to make it fit in a proper way. If you pay some attention to it the you will be rewarded with a proper fit of the fuselage and the wings. Decals are Flevodecal and the paint is Xtracolor. Thanks for looking Arie
    1 point
  14. Revell's reboxing of the Hasegawa He-111 H6. Built as a break in scale (normally build in 1/48th), and it was a good fun kit - the only tricky bits were the nose glazing (which being hasegawa is in 5 pieces to allow for more variants), and the main undercarriage, which needed a little persuasion to fit. Painted with Gunze throughout, and weathered with Mig Oils / Washes and Ak interactive products. Completely OOB apart from some fishing line. Built as the Personal Aircraft of Oberstleutnant Kuhlmey, Commander of Gefechsverband Kuhlmey, Part of Schlachtgeschwader 2, 20th June 1944, Immola, Finnland. Peter
    1 point
  15. Got another model finished all bar the weapons and pylons today. It is the Italeri boxing of the Kinetic 1/48 F-16C 'Barak' (Block 40). I have built it as #88-0419 F-16CM Block 40B using the Afterburner Sheet 48-075 Hill AFB 388th/419th FW.
    1 point
  16. This is Revell's 32nd Spitfire, not the old one, but the one based on the Hasegawa's V. They released it with new Mk I wings which meant the wings had engraved panel lines, as opposed to the raised ones on the fuselage. I engraved the fuselage and just made seat padding and harness from Milliput and lead foil. Humbrol enamels were used to paint her. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  17. Started this one over 10 years ago. Finally finished it last spring. Decals come from the sparebox, paint comes from Xtracolor.
    1 point
  18. Last of the trio in consideration for the club display at SMW Revell Sabre Dog Again from the box with cutting edge decals Alclad used for the NMF
    1 point
  19. Seem to have made a right cock up of trying to post this so here I go again.... My first ever attempt at armour, figures and diorama building. Some german brass and their mates have run west to avoid the red army. They have come across a british recon patrol and bren carrier crew. The commanding officer is trying to surrender but the bren carrier commander is not keen. Sorry for the photo quality, they will improve. [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  20. Hi! I managed to finish the first of my little Fokkers. This Danish one was pleasure to build. Six more to build, all HERE
    1 point
  21. Onward! Onto the next deck. I added plastic strip inside the deck house to stop that total look thru... works well. There is an amazing amount of fiddly painting of deck fittings on this model! steady hand, tiny brush and several hours.... Added the next deck and realised that I should really SOMETHING about the ejector marks around the bow. Something that should have been done when it was two hull halves. Oh well nothing like an unnecessary challenge, eh? With the upper deck on you really start to get an impression of how massive these things really are - one solid ship.
    1 point
  22. This is the Spitfire IXb from 322 Squadron of the Dutch Airforce. This one was used in the Dutch Indies. It was assembled and kept in reserve. It never made any operational flights. For this one I used the Italeri Spitfire IXc as a basis. Wings come from the Italeri Spitfire Vb. At the underside of the wing the 2nd radiotor was placed. The front part of the fuselage requires some attention in order to make it fit in a proper way. If you pay some attention to it the you will be rewarded with a proper fit of the fuselage and the wings. Decals are from the scrap box and paint is from Xtracolor. Thanks for looking. Arie
    1 point
  23. Now there's a Spitfire that looks like a Spitfire! Very convincing. Good job! Kind regards, Joachim
    1 point
  24. Like the look of this one a lot, nice build. Pete
    1 point
  25. I first sprayed the Proctor aluminium and than the panellines with very thinned black. Now it looks more or less like the real thing in 1948.
    1 point
  26. I'm with you the 1:144 kits are excellent. Great finish on the rafale, much smoother than my brush painting.
    1 point
  27. Made a brief start this morning. Firstly, assembling all the missiles: Then moving on and assembling the cockpit. The Tomcat F.1 has a new MFD on the lower right of the pilots instrument panel and an updated missile control system for the AMRAAM: The tub is the same as the F-14D: The F.1's were fitted with a HUD repeater on top of the RIO's coaming, one of the additions BAE made to the jet: That's all for now. Dave
    1 point
  28. Now that is how to weather a Spit,dirty,well used but no big black OTT panel lines. One of "Prof" Leathart's 54Sqn steeds too. He engaged an He111 near Dunkirk on the 21 May,1940(one of the first Spit combats over northern France) whilst flying P9389. P9389 was shot down by a 109 on 24 September,the pilot,Kiwi Plt Off Stewart,abandoned the fighter at 20,000 feet and parachuted down to land safely in the Thames Estuary. Nice mate.
    1 point
  29. Beautiful build & finish!
    1 point
  30. "Fish head" is a favourite of mine when refering to commercial divers offshore or "biodegradable ROV's", "bubbleheads" actually SAT Divers have a few derogatory names!
    1 point
  31. yes it is ^.....BA has a customer number too...the reason for the difference is not the basic structure of the aircraft; the internal fit will probably be different, avionics etc. One of my favourite airline stories is somebody started an airline and bought a second hand DC9-30 and put it into service. The airliner then grew so the owner then bought another pair of second hand DC9-30's, both from different sources...the engineering team who did the maintenance for this airline asked the owner what type of DC9-30's he had bought...the owner said, "Type? They are DC9-30's..." When the the aircraft were delivered, the only thing that was the same between the three aircraft was the basic shell of them. Everything inside all three were different. It cost the owner more than the purchase price of all three to have them re-fitted to the same internal specs. If he hadn not done so, the maintance costs would have rocketed becasue all three aircraft had been ordered by three different airlines originally and all three had different internal fittings.
    1 point
  32. Just to be contrary, I personally think the yellow a bit distracting (which is not a criticism of your choice of subject!) but the camo in between looks... perfect. If you didn't already say, what paints did you use for the camo colours? I have no idea whether they're an exact match to the target standards, but they sure look right sharing some aeroplane surface together! And you obviously did something right to help them look "authentic", too. p.s. Ah yes, there it is in the first line- Xtracrylics. I'll have to get me some of that!
    1 point
  33. Nice Sabre Dog! Goes to show you can do a great build from the box! Nice Alclad work!
    1 point
  34. Here's some more progress. I have the back of the crankcase in place now, as well as the valve covers: Here's the front view. The spinner is just temporarily in place; I need to sand some seams there. Fit is all right. Drilling out all those holes for the intake pipes was hard to do well, and I still need to fill some gaps here and there. Overall, though, I like the way it looks.
    1 point
  35. Hi Friend: Superb job, I like the clean planes but here I like this one as the way you have finished this one and the weathered appearance well done dirty parts, guns smoke trail, scratches and dents is very real; you have achieved here making the Spit as a very busy one, that's a masterwork!!! Thank you very much for sharing,.
    1 point
  36. Working a lot in Portsmouth, I was told it was because the Navy were issued with a paste to combat a certain...ahem...personal louse problem, known as crab fat. The packaging was the same blue as the RAF uniform, so the RAF were derogatorily referred to as Crab Fats, later shortened to just Crabs. Don't know if it's true, but it makes a good story... Cheers, Dean
    1 point
  37. Here's a colour profile of the initial Mark 1C which I did from a set of drawings I'm working on in my spare time. Not sure if they will come to anything, mind, as F-RSIN have announced a very welcome Trident 3B and everyone will say I've just cribbed my drawings from the kit...
    1 point
  38. Hi all - some more progress to report I got the IP fixed in place and the masked off the cockpits for priming which I did with Halford's White primer - I used white because I need a good base for the yellow trim which went on first...Xtracrylix RAF Trainer Yellow I also painted the rotors The some seriously tedious and fiddly masking of the leading and trailing wing and tailplanes before I could spray some Tamiya Blue. It took a long time and quite a bit of burnishing of tape edges. Once that had been sprayed, I created a template in cardboard from the scale drawing on the instructions for the odd-shaped red tips on the rotors and this was used to cut out and fix masks to the rotor tips. These were then sprayed with Xtracrylix Red Arrows Red Finally after letting them dry - off came the masks - quite pleased! The yellow trim isn't perfect (although there was no colour bleed) as the line wanders a little on the port wing but I may be able to correct it. I have to finish spraying the rotor-head end of the rotors and now give some serious thought as to how to fix these to the rotor - its a very flimsy contraption. I also bought some Decalfix off Hannants and coated the kit decals Thanks for looking
    1 point
  39. Why oh why oh why oh why can't they do this in 1/350???????
    1 point
  40. Oh dear, the 777 was made by the same (deleted) (deleted) of (deleted) who did the 757. Be prepared to use "Some modelling skills required".
    1 point
  41. I've made the base (112 cm x 61 cm) That should be about 110 m x 55 m of Atlantikwall. Bunkers,etc are dryfitted to give you an idea of the size.
    1 point
  42. All the bunkers are done.It wasn't easy to find a good shade to paint them.It's a mix of several grays.
    1 point
  43. Hi Jan, Three small pointers... 1. The fin-side formation lights - the mountings for them are almost flush (only just visble in 1:48th scale) and not as raised as they appear in your photos; that's why I sanded them down on the masters for the resin. 2. The front seat has a taller canopy breaker on the right side of the headbox... Yikes #1 3. Did you fit the internal screen (from acetate sheet) between the two cockpits? Yikes #2, maybe. 1 is easy to fix, 2 and 3 not so with the canopy in place. See my build notes for more information. Also, please note that gunpods were rarely carried by later (grey) T10s/T12s; strakes being their usual fit. Cheers, Nick
    1 point
  44. This is not a work in progress thread, neither is it the wanted area (using other areas to get around the 100 post rule is also not on). Closed.
    1 point
  45. Hello All Thanks for the replies, the PE was very fiddley and I lost (and clearly found!) the headlight guards so many times but it was worth sticking with. As I said in my first post the paint is now on and decals applied, the weathering is more or less complete, meeds maybe a bit more mud on the sides and rear to tie it in with the running gear which (hopefully you can see in the pictures!) Things to complete? Finish the tracks off (weathering) Finish painting the stowage in the box (chains and tarps) Maybe add stowage to front (i'm thinking spare wheel ect) and something to the rear (looking into options for stowage as we speak Then I need to make a base but i'm having a few thoughts about that already Does anyone have any pictures of the actual tank, i'd like to make the setting/stowage as accurate as possible. Anyway onto the pictures: ATB Adam
    1 point
  46. Thank you. As for the colour... I'm certain it is a silvery-grey. However, it depends on the heavily on the light conditions (I've seen some look light grey, others look silver) have a look at these and you'll see what I mean: http://www.airliners.net/photo/Virgin-Atla...a5a3adb88d2c9ff http://www.airliners.net/photo/Virgin-Atla...a5a3adb88d2c9ff http://www.airliners.net/photo/Virgin-Atla...a5a3adb88d2c9ff The 'new scheme' does appear much lighter, but I still wouldn't say it's pure white: http://www.airliners.net/photo/Virgin-Atla...a5a3adb88d2c9ff
    1 point
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