Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 61 points
    There's something about multi-engine pusher aircraft and counter-rotating props that stimulates my fancy. And if it's a flying wing, too, it's darn near irresistible! I finished this build in five weeks, which for me is super-fast (my B-58 Hustler took three months), and just in time for this weekend's local show & contest. The WIP can be found here: Significant changes/additions to the Italeri kit: Opened up and deepened the leading edge engine air inlets Added warm air exhaust outlets on the wing trailing edge Added leading edge slots near the wing tips Added gun barrels to all turrets (including the tail "stinger") Added interior details (what little can be seen) Added belly crew access hatch Markings are for a hypothetical in-service production aircraft ca. 1949 NMF created using AK Interactive Xtreme Metal paints On to the pics! Belly turret and crew access hatch: Turbosupercharger exhausts and exhaust stains: Interior details added (pardon the dust): Rear gunner's position and periscope sight: Leading edge engine air inlets: Engine warm air outlets: Leading edge wingtip slots: She's a big aircraft! Thanks for looking! -Bill
  2. 50 points
    Vertol Hkp 4B 1 Helicopter Division, Swedish Navy, 1986 If anyone reading this was at the 1986 Middle Wallop air show, as I was, I’m sure you will remember these Swedish helicopters as stars of the show and rare beasts indeed in the UK. It sometimes takes a while for all the elements to come together to built a model and for me it was the recent availability of the Swedish camo colours from Hataka that completed the set. I have had the ‘Flying Colours / Aerodecals’ sheet for a long long time, kept in the equally old Hobbycraft Vertol 107 kit box waiting to go. If you like masking, then this is the model for you. If you don’t, sheer perseverance will get you there in the end – or at least that’s how it was for me. I thought the rotor blade camo might be the easy bit, but having to do it all 6 times extended the timescale beyond what I wanted – you can only do so much masking at a time. The Hataka paints airbrushed beautifully and I would recommend them. Next time though I think I would spray the two greens and hand brush the brown and black to keep masking to a reasonable level.
  3. 49 points
    Tam kit, Steel Beach conversion, Fightertown decals. No need for a full write up on this one.
  4. 37 points
    --I'm begging you,come home pls ! We all miss you! My new work, I hope you like it
  5. 37 points
    Here is my Revell Beaufighter. Two years in the making and finally in the cabinet. There were lots of additions, some scratchbuilt others from aftermarket sources. I it a great kit and and has a great presence amongst it's contemporaries.
  6. 36 points
    I've officially finished this build of (mainly) Revell's Spitfire I/II kit as a Spitfire Vb Trop ER676. The model is mostly Revell parts, but back to front on the exterior I used the following items for the conversion: propeller and spinner were from leftover Hasegawa Spitfire V bits that were living in my spares box; the Vokes filter is from the Hobby Boss mk V kit; the exhausts are from Quickboost; the cannons are from Master; the tires are from Eduard Brassin; the bumps on the cowl and the wings are from Real Models; the pilot access door from Barracuda Studios; on the bottom of the centre wing are hooks for the external fuel tank leftover from a Tamiya VIII; the windscreen is from Tamiya's VIII kit (leftover from when I built a PR.XI); the wing pitot is from the Hobby Boss mk V kit; and the tail wheel strut was also from the Hobby Boss mk V kit. Bits from the Eduard exterior set were used on the landing gear and the wheel wells. The cockpit has parts from the Revell kit, Barracuda Studios, Eduard, some bits from Hobby Boss, HGW seatbelts and the instruments panel is from Yahu. Build tread here: I tried Hataka acrylics with this build and although I like the colours I didn't like how they sprayed so I won't be using them again. Added some figures (one from Aerobonus - Aires - and another from Master Casters). Fuel tanks and boxes from Miniart. Anyway, on to the rest of the photos: Thanks for looking and as always comments and/or feedback is welcome. Elger
  7. 35 points
    Well, at least I tried to make it into a C8 (not C4 as I wrote into the topic title).... And a Link to some more pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G296ba76FZtkEY6q9
  8. 34 points
    Revell 1/72 Hunter F6 with Xtradecals İnternational Hunter sheet. http:// http:// http:// http:// http://
  9. 29 points
    my second try at a Hobby Boss Messerschmitt and a link to some more: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8mthQRy4vPe5r6ow7
  10. 28 points
    Something with a Polish accent this time. F-105D Polish Glider Set: Trumpeter 1:32 scale, model made as always straight from the box. The model is not simple to build.
  11. 27 points
    This is my take on a French Farm house. It is made from Blue foam, Styrene sheet, Coffee stirrers and cardboard. The tree has had its trunk painted as have the leaves to give it a more natural look. Hope you like it comments more than welcome cheers Scottie
  12. 26 points
    It took me awhile, but here is finally the RFI for my Mossie. This is the old but good Tamiya kit, and I've adde True Details cockpit , Quickboost exhausts, Eduard paint masks and the rather nifty and very detail Aviaeology Outriders decal sheet, and Aviaelogy Mossie Stencils. This is HR116 flown by B flight of 333Sqn. It was mainly used for Outrider mission up and down the Norwegian coast to locate suitable prey for the rest of the Banff strike wing. I've chosen to paint it in a manner that still shows the underlying day fighter scheme. The idea was that a faint camo pattern underneath the Extra Dark Sea Grey would add a bit more interest. The WIP is here: Anyway, here are the pictures : It seems to me that my old camera is giving up the ghost, or I'm getting worse at taking photos. Both could be true off course! Comments and critique more than welcome. //Christer
  13. 23 points
    Hello all - this is my first Sci-fi / Star Wars model since returning to the hobby and certainly won't be the last - I had a great time putting this together, mainly due to the kit - it really is magnificent - doesn't need glue A nice quick build resulting from not having to fill any seams or close any joints. Click together and paint. The scheme came from an image I saw of an A-wing at a model show - I've since discovered that when Ralph McQuarrie first designed the concept for the A-wing, it sported these colours - however, these were changed to the familiar orange red due to the restrictions of bluescreen. In any case, I think it looks quite nice in blue. The only modification was sawing the canopy in half so I could have an open cockpit. I used some leftover decals from some old kits and added Eduard PE seatbelts - Painted with Tamiya acrylics with oils for weathering. The NMF was done with Vellejo Metal colour and Alclad. I did a WIP on this if you're interested: Thanks for looking in... Cheers John
  14. 23 points
    This was a great kit, the biggest challenge being the decision how much of the interior structure to display with the completed kit. Well, as you see I went halfway .... (As you also can see, there is a significant gap on the port side of the plane between the wing and the body, so maybe I should have left that open too ) and a link with more pictures of the details Zoukei-Mura included ... https://photos.app.goo.gl/mtDPzdX9gXv5Zv8J3
  15. 23 points
    Sturmgeschütz IV Sd.Kfz. 167 17th Panzer Grenadier Division - Normandy 1944
  16. 22 points
    Polikarpov I-16 type 17 Hasegawa 1/72
  17. 21 points
    MPM 1/72 Lockheed Vega model 5 Floatplane Build time 11 hours
  18. 20 points
    Not posted any new model here lately because of the less than desirable quality of photo that I can capture at present( I swear I will fabricate a photo booth by end of this month) ; Anyways here is the Tamiya kit , completely built out of box . It is brilliant just like any other tamiya kit . Weathered it a bit heavier than usual and I kinda like how it came out . Intentionally over pronounced the post shading . Thanks for watching
  19. 20 points
    Please be kind. I’m firmly at the foot of this particular learning curve so am aware there is a lot could be improved. Sharing just in case folks might be interested rather than for critique I’ve been experimenting with laser cutting, 3D printing and digital design so decided to apply a bit of that to model making (in progress thread here Sharing the most recent output. Convair XP-92 in 1/72 scale. Parts modelled in Fusion 360, printed on a Creality Ender 3 in grey PLA. Assembled with isocyanate and painted with acrylics. Drawings thanks to @Space Ranger and decals kindly donated by @Pat C. Thank you both
  20. 20 points
    “A Typhoon with bite!” Hawker Typhoon Ib 245 Sqn June 1945 Model: MDC 1/32ndHawker Typhoon IB Paint: Tamiya & Mr Hobby Acrylics with Mr Paint & SMS lacquers, Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Extras: AML – Camouflage Painting Masks Aviaeology – Shark Mouth Typhoon Decals Special Hobby – RP-3 60lb SAP/HE Rockets Squadron - Canopy
  21. 20 points
    How do chaps, Here's my second model in the GB. Dragon Sherman Vc with AFV Club tracks and RB metal barrel. Figures from Miniart. Painted with AK Real Color, Vallejo, Mig, Tamiya and Games Workshop paints. Weathered with Mig Pigments, Games Workshop washes and Tamiya textured paint for the mud. Build thread below.... Regards, Steve
  22. 20 points
    Hello! This kit from Airfix in72 scale was made in 2018. In the construction of the model was used photo etching from Eduard. Painting with Tamiya paints and MrHobby. photo_1_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_2_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_3_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_4_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_5_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_6_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_7_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_8_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_9_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_10_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_11_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_12_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_13_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_14_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi Pleasant viewing!
  23. 19 points
    Blitzed this! 6hrs 23 not including an hours tea break. T47 Snowspeeder, my second and much better entry in this BlitzBuild
  24. 19 points
    English Electric Lightning F.6, Airfix 1/72 scale 5 Sqn. XS903 RAF Binbrook 1984 Ettore
  25. 18 points
    Finished my latest build. 1/144 Dora Wings kit. Fantastic little kits, I modified and added details.
  26. 18 points
    #21/2019 After a shiny Mexican T-Bolt, my dad now finished another shiny Mexican. He had to fight with some fit issues but in the end it turned out nice. He used the limited Eduard edition of the Accurate Miniatures kit with Aztec Decals. For the main colours he used MRP White Aluminium and Neutral Grey and an older selfmixed olive. EZ line for the antenna wires. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235056655-aztec-warrior148-douglas-a-24-banshee-fuerza-aerea-mexicana/ DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  27. 18 points
    This was built as part of the "Sharks Mouth GB", and as per usual for me I wanted to do a scheme that was a bit different. A Hawker Typhoon with a Sharks Mouth certainly fitted the brief! She's a full resin model 1/32nd from MDC with a few extras and corrections. I do have to she wasn’t one of the easier builds I had. Right from the start she had some serious issues with warpage in the wings, fuselage, control surfaces, cockpit internals….pretty much varying degrees of all over the place. The second one of these I have was a little bit better and for a while I was planning to build that one instead. But hey what’s life without a challenge! This was the wing after heat treatment to remove the major warping, it still needed quite a bit of sanding, re-filling and profiling correct the shape. Unfortunately the decal set also caused issues as they did not want to conform at all with the complex shape of the radiator opening. They just fell apart even with decal solution. So I was forced to do these by hand…..well masking and airbrush. In the end I probably should have done the whole lot with masks and saved myself a lot of headaches. In the end she was done and I’m pretty happy with the results considering. The next project (in the future) will be bulding the 2ndone with some bit from the old Revell model to build one of the 3 “Car Door” Typhoons the RAAF tested in the Middle East. Model: MDC 1/32ndHawker Typhoon IB Paint: Tamiya & Mr Hobby Acrylics with Mr Paint & SMS lacquers, Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Extras: AML – Camouflage Painting Masks Aviaeology – Shark Mouth Typhoon Decals Special Hobby – RP-3 60lb SAP/HE Rockets Squadron - Canopy thank you for looking and please enjoy. ...and one of her siblings.
  28. 18 points
    It's later. Bill (perdu) recommended 'tube glue' some time ago for some jobs - grips a bit to hold the part and gives you wiggle room - so I used that on the bottom off the fins and the quick stuff on the struts: Apart from getting some TET on the fin (hard to get past the PE) all went well: Happy with that. Ignore the instructions, of course - they would have you line up the struts with the windows that aren't there.
  29. 18 points
    hi, here is a diorama of carrier deck USS Essex in 1962 models are Airfix A-4B skyhawk Revell S-2A Tracker Italeri HSS-1 Seabat Tracker was fully engraved. Scratch building was done on HSS-1 to support rotor blade on airframe Deck is MDF wood graved and tie down cross are photo-etched part from brengun Figures are italeri enjoy!
  30. 17 points
    A Gallery? Don't usually get this far Here's my Brengun 1/48 16KhA 'Priboy' missile. Build thread HERE
  31. 17 points
    This was done as a quick build between projects, and only took eight hours work to complete. It would have been quicker, but the escape rocket mast is VERY fiddly to put together, with more parts than the rest of the rocket put together, and the lack of proper instructions doesn't help. Also the main body of the rocket is presented as tubes, presumably to eliminate sanding of seams; it doesn't. There is a prominent mould seam down both sides of each of the four sections, and a lot of sanding and polishing smooth is still required. As it was a quick build, I didn't research the colour scheme too much and just followed the instructions on the box, so there are inaccuracies. No weathering was done, as this thing was only used once... Only one pic, as it doesn't look much different from the other side. Cheers, Dean
  32. 17 points
    Sometimes a picture seeds an idea. I found this photo when I built my Marine Corsair, and it inspired me to try and model this gun carrier as a companion. Tamiya's 1/48 Jeep was the perfect kit for this task. I used the Eduard PE set and Verlinden wheels, and scratch-built a new radiator grille to represent the early front and a wooden box to hold the .5 cal Browning M2 machine guns. The box can be removed to have the Jeep perform other duties if needed. The picture below demonstrates the difference between the early radiator grille guard (vehicle in the front) and the more common pressed sheet-metal face (rear). The Jeep's official designation is Willys-Overland Model MB or ¼ ton 4x4 truck. My model served in the Solomons in early 1943 with VMF-124, part of Marine Air Group 12. Six machine guns, each weighing some 84 lbs, and a crew of two are an adequate load for the dogged Jeep, which has in fact a maximum paylod of 800 lbs. I hope you like this digression from my usual aircraft modelling theme, and you are invited of course to visit my Corsair here. I'm working on a small display base so that I can present them together. Thanks for viewing - Michael References Pacific War Eagles in Original Color, Jeffrey Ethell / Warren Bodie, Front Royal, 1997 Jeeps 1941-45, Osprey New Vanguard 117, Steven J. Zaloga, Botley, 2005 Pre-Standardized Jeep, Walk Around 5711, David Doyle, Carrollton, 2008 Willys-Overland MB and Ford Model GPW Jeep Technical Manual, Washington, 1947, reprinted by PeriscopeFilm 2011
  33. 17 points
    Ready for inspection is my Airfix 1:72 D.H. Mosquito FB.Mk.VI. I have built this kit straight from the box, using Vallejo acrylics throughout. The kit was quite a challenge, purely because of the poor quality of some of the mouldings (notably the undercarriage doors and wings). Because of this, quite a bit of filler was required, and some sanding to boot. That said I am happy with the result, thanks for looking.
  34. 16 points
    Hi folks - hope you’re all enjoying the weekend - I’ve just started work on this little thing: She’s been in the stash for ages - I bought this just after completing the razorback version so it was only right and proper that this would sneak into the build queue. I loved the Razorback - both the build and the finished model - but the nmf that I intend on doing kinda scared me off. Since then I’ve dabbled with metallics on different projects - trying to work out what paints work best and how to apply them - I’ve discovered the wonders of Alclad which I’ll be using on this wee girl - but this will be the first time attempting a proper full metal finish - I have a heap of kits that are crying out for the shiny treatment- so hopefully this will be the first of many - time to pop the cherry I got some after market: Some masks for the canopy- a compulsory item for me these days because life is too short. Some photo etch goodness for the cockpit and some replacement gun barrels- as the kit ones don’t really cut the mustard- I used brass barrels on the razorback but these required some surgery to the wing to make them fit - I’m hoping these will be easier to install. The scheme... well I bought this decal sheet a while back: I thought this bird looked pretty good. Love the pin up and that blue... However when I broke them out when starting this build I realized something. They’re for a P-47 N... not a D like I have. I thought about using artistic license and using them anyways... but just couldn’t get my head around it. One of the things I love about the hobby is depicting real aircraft- however badly, and learning about them - it adds to the richness of the finished piece. Knowing that this scheme was on the wrong type wasn’t going to work for me... So a quick look around on the inter web resulted in me ordering some new decals - they’re 2 weeks away but I can still keep working until they arrive... the 2 schemes in the kit are fine but I wanted something blue - you’ll have to wait abit longer to see the what i ordered... Started on the pit - broke some bits off a sprue: and sprayed them with tamiya xf 5 flat green followed by some highlights in a lighter shade: Then painted In the details- with some dry brushed silver and tamiya panel line washes... I put the eduard instrument panel together- sanded down the kit version and glued it in place... Looks okay I think - I used some other pe around the cockpit sides but discarded most of it - the kit has a decent amount of detail already. The seat got some seatbelts: Again these are quite nice. After supergluing them-in place, they got some panel line wash to dirty them up a little. The completed office. No trouble from the kit as you’d expect from tamiya. The razorback was a nice easy build so I’m sure this will be no different. Thats it for now... thanks for checking in Cheers John
  35. 16 points
    Lt Dick Winters undertook a reconnaissance at about 0830, after which he collected a team of 12 men from his own and other companies. Beyond knowledge of the general location of the gun emplacements south of Le Grand Chemin and without information of the other side of the hedgerow, Winters' team attacked Brécourt Manor, located three miles southwest of Utah Beach and north of the village of Sainte-Marie-du-Mont. There he discovered No. 6 Battery of the 90th Artillery Regiment, consisting of four 105mm howitzers connected by trenches and defended by a company of soldiers. Pictures of the tree line in the grounds today Map of the Gun position. Unfortunately my only reference was the Band of Brothers series, as the chap that owns the manor doesn't let visitors into the field. My build to capture the break in and the first Gun.
  36. 16 points
    Evening gang. Thursday already and barely a teacake buttered, let alone much time for matters Ansonian. Monday took wife and sons up to Dublin to visit my cousin and her family who've moved over from England. Here we all are on Portmarnock Strand walking towards the famous Howth Head: My two giant sons on the right and Jess my coz's lurcher going mad in the surf to the left. 'Tis funny getting older and feeling the dynamic of the generations shifting. Ok then. Let's see what the assembled rakes and wits have been saying: I know. From what I've seen you capable of H I suspect that this would have erred on the side of 'a bit too straightforward'. Yours would have had lightbulbs and probably the filament too I'll be bound. After your recent enlivening of Ced's thread with that carnival of dead fly souls , I've saved you a few recruits... Normally flies aren't so much of a problem here in summer but our neighbour- Frank - who farms the fields front and side of us kept cattle instead of his usual sheep this year. I actually drove past Frank feeding the herd a week or two back and shouted out the window 'Jeez those sheep are looking big Frank!' Frank stared at me blankly but here's the thing - I swear his dog laughed. You've a new car but the intense sun has impaired your sense of scale? (Please say it's really for the Battle Ian, I really need you to finish it so thatI know how to build my one properly....) It's involves such higher-state physics Giorgio that I really couldn't explain it without a blackboard, some chalk, and a long pointy stick. Hang about. What's this? I'm not sure I like where this is headed..... Thanks Ced: those Marabu bits are the business and no mistake. I must check out what else they do! What I say boy What is that thing CC? Somebody stole the middle section out of a Mirage? Please tell me that's in your back garden. I say! And this isn't you homebrewing PE I suppose Steve? Heat is your friend - or rather - the selective application thereof Ced. Punch the concave shape into the rear bowl and rub some flux around the rim. Tin the underside of the front framing then drop it into place onto the rear section of the lamp. Apply a little heat to the centre of the front frame with the iron until you feel it stick to the rear bowl. Takes very little heat and only a second or two to do. Quicker and stronger than CA! We're all of us learning from each other continually CC. It's why the forum is so flipping addictive! Cheers Johnny. Have found it hard to settle down to the bench this week - distracted rather than mojo-diminution. Partly I guess because we're now in that tidy-up and finish-off phase of the build which means lots of little jobs all over the place to keep up with. One thing plaguing my conscience has been fixing the tailplanes, both of which had snapped off due to the brittle age of the plastic in those parts. For strength I decided on a rectangular scrap of brass as internal bracing: it was mounted into the port side by the simple expedient of heating the end of the brass with a blowtorch and plunging it into the inside of the tailplane by about 6mm or so and then leaving the plastic to contract around it. Simple and direct but a one-shot operation if you stick the hot metal in at the wrong angle and pretzel the moulding (which thankfully I didn't). The holes drilled into the brass are just there to give extra surfaces for the epoxy to grip into. The corresponding starboard side: The slot to accept the brass strip was down by drilling a series of 6mm deep holes and then using the drill as a router - moving the vice back and forwards gently to cut out the slot. These two halves were then epoxied and jiggled into place on the obligatory Lego jig: As per SOP I've been generous here withe the epoxy so that it simultaneously acts as filler to be carved back when cured - which is why I've also left all the final shaping and profiling to after the gluing stage as well so that all can be done in a single operation. The important longitudinal aspect: Probs the weekend before we're back in harness again - if the rain stays off tomorrow I have to spend the day bricklaying the founds of the greenhouse. Tony
  37. 15 points
    This is a restoration of a glue bomb. The kit has never been re-released and is now quite rare. The chassis and engine were too far gone so I stole those parts and the wheels from the more common AMT 65 GTO kit. The paint is my own mix of Zero colours followed by Tamiya TS13 clear. The tyres are from The Modelhaus.
  38. 15 points
    Me? Interested in Navy Birds? Whatever gave you that idea? I suppose you think I'm interested in satirical King Arthur movies too... **** OK, back to the build. I'm pretty sure this baby is going to be a tail-setter, so I stuck a hunk of lead inside the nose cone, and taped the rest of the fuselage together to test that it is enough. I tried to balance the model by sticking a couple of fingers where the main gear attach, and see which way it tips. The nose fell quickly, so I guess it's enough weight. She looks nice all taped together - can I call it finished and move on to the next one? I previously assembled the intakes, smoothed out the seams and ejector pin marks, painted the inside aluminum, and added to the bottom fuselage. The hunk of lead (I told you it was a hunk) was superglued in. Unfortunately, in the 1:72 scale kit, Heller/Airfix do not provide engine faces, nor any detail for the exit faces of the engine either. Airfix do, however, provide these in their 1:48 scale kit. I know that was an FAW.9, and my model here is a T.3, but I'm assuming that these details would be similar between the two. Here are the 1:48 pieces: Both ends of the engine look quite similar. Here we can almost see the engine face on the preserved A&AEE aircraft: **** WARNING: LAZY MODELLER AHEAD. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. **** I had a look through a veritable forest of leftover photoetch frets and bags full of spare styrene parts, but didn't find anything that I liked. I even looked in wifey's "scrap-booking" satchel. I mean, I was looking for scraps, right? Anyway, I didn't really want to scratch build all those vanes - the air brake bumpy things were enough. So I borrowed the front of an engine I found on the web, imported the photo into Corel Draw, added the four support structures, scaled the drawing, and printed it out. On paper, like the stuff folks used to write on. I also made pictures for the back end (I know they shouldn't look bigger, but I'll explain shortly. Jeez, be patient.) I don't have a circle cutter, like my mate @CedB, but I do have a pair of scissors. (Blunt end, 'cuz the kind folks here at this nice facility don't let me have anything sharp.) I cut out the little pictures, and shoved them in the intakes. I wanted to do a test fit first, but they won't come back out! Molecular adhesion, I guess. However, by sticking a pencil into the intakes, eraser end first, I was able to rotate the guys to an approximate alignment. Not the best photo, but you get the idea. At the exhaust end, Heller/Airfix moulded the tailcone and exhausts all as one piece, they're not very deep, and tapered to boot. I know from the Airfix 1:48 kit they should be much deeper than this. I sliced off the inside end of the exhaust, so you could see through them, and added a section of styrene tubing (the only one I had that was even close to being the right size). I did it this way to avoid interference with the end of the fuselage. It'll be OK, since you can't even see the mismatch in diameter when you sight through the exhaust from behind. I had to scale the printout to match the size of the tubing, which is why it's bigger. I glued the printouts onto the end of the tubes, and tried to get a good photo but I gave up. I told you I was lazy. Just make believe it looks like the intakes, because, well, it sort of does. I suspect that no one will ever look into these orifices to see my shockingly cheap faux engine faces. But I did, and to be honest they don't look too bad. The shadows and gradients in the photo of the engine vanes make them look almost 3-D even though they aren't. So there. I don't need no resin photoetch 3D printer. I got paper! Cheers, Bill PS. I inadvertently upgrade the engine on the Javelin by using a photo of the front of an EJ200. I guess it's now a Eurofighter Javelin. Maybe now it will have enough power!
  39. 15 points
    Tonight I have continued working my way gradually aft along the starboard side. Though there are numerous small inaccuracies in Merit’s moulds in lots of places, they have at least tried all over the hull... except on the deck I’d call 2 deck (the deck below the flight deck), using modern RN parlance... but which they’d have called the Upper Gallery deck. [OK - quick digression, but worth doing to help people follow the build. Post-War (don’t know when the change came, but definitely by my era), deck names were standardised throughout the Fleet. This might seem trivial, but in fact accurate description of where a compartment is in a ship is vital: “Fire in the mess deck” doesn’t really help much if there are a dozen mess decks. The highest continuous deck is called 1 Deck. So in a carrier that’s dead easy: the Flight Deck = 1 Deck. Anything above that has a 0 in front, going up - so the levels of the island would be 01 Deck, 02 Deck, and so on. Anything below has no Zero, so 2 Deck, 3 Deck etc. are going down into the ship. The hangar of Ark 5, my era, was on 3 deck, for example. Once you are used to it, this is a simple, logical system. The 1940s RN was different. The Flight Deck was still called the same, thank goodness. But going up into the island the decks were A, B, C, D etc. And going down into the hull they had names: Upper Gallery, Lower Gallery, Hangar, Upper Deck (which confusingly was 4 decks down...), Lower Deck, Platform Deck & Hold. Throughout this build I will use modern terms, because they are completely instinctive for me and I find the WW2 terms highly confusing. Digression over.] For some reason best known to Merit’s designers, they have not moulded any detail on 2 deck at all, despite there being plenty there for real. If you look at this pic from a couple of days ago, there’s nothing there except a few pencil marks of mine: Tonight I have started fixing that; seen here are 8 newly drilled and brassed scuttles, the sponson for the starboard aft HACS (kit part) and a section of Tetra brass representing open galleries in the real ship - all on 2 Deck. It being a Bank Holiday, I’m home from tomorrow until Tuesday, so I will leave you with two summary photos which show all of the week’s work... seen from aft: ... and seen from for’d: Until next week Crisp
  40. 14 points
    Dassault Mirage F1CR French Air Force / Armée de l'Air Balic Air Policing missions Šiauliai in 2013 here quickbuild: WIP 1/48 Italeri kit Mission Mark Decals FM resin for cockpit, 2200 l tank, refueling probe, chaff/ flare dispensers, front landing gear ResinArt wheels Eduard Brassin Matra Magic 2 missiles AML resin nozzle Master pitot thanks everybody, was great fun! thanks for all your input thanks for hosting these great GBs! cheers, Werner
  41. 14 points
    That's looking great, Ced. For the pet lovers here, my daughter's cat, Spinelli, showed up at her back door last night. Chris
  42. 13 points
    What is it that is dressed in black, curvy and is named after a dangerous arachnid? Off course, that is Scarlet Johansen nowadays! First thing that pops into mind really... But before her time, (and mine) there was a time when the idea of two rumbling engines, nice curves and black paint meant the P-61A Black Widow. We all know the story how this was developed as a night-fighter from the start with all the lessons learned from RAF night-fighters during the Blitz. It seems to me, that the thought, lets make like a cross between a Blenheim If (with gunpack) and Defiant (that turret) but everything shall be larger! Bigger radar, bigger engines, bigger guns, bigger wings, basically the hole shebang! Naturally when you do things properly it takes time, so when the A/C was finished there were no large armadas of german bombers to intercept. My plan is to do a certain individual from 422nd Night Fighter Squadron, called Jukin Judy. The reason is clear, since it looks like this (the machine on the right: This shows perfectly why I had to do it. No? Ok, a better picture then: Still not clear? Ok, this does it: Teeth! I first thought sharkmouth but then I friend pointed out that sharks are a bit more pointy but perhaps a whale is ore like it? He's absolutely correct! The nose with mouth looks a lot more like an angry sperm whale, so therefore this is my first whalemouth. Over to the contents. The GWH kit is from 2012 and has a rather nice and big box: Popping of the lid reveals some very crisp cast runners with what appears as oodles of detail. Also included are a tiny etch fret, decals, TWO erratas for the instructions and a resin gunsight, and a nice A4 picture of the boxart. Could be a suitable picture for work... Nice looking decals, but I hope to only use the stencils. Off course I've bought a few extras as welll: I recent trend that I've stumbled upon is that all my kits contains errors that must be fixed, and this one is no exception: First: The cowling opening is too small. Replacements from quickboost sorts that out. Second. Propeller is cast as one piece, and although clever it just looks too simplified! I'll order a Quickboost or True Details example soon. Third: Someone forgot to include the magnetos on the reduction gear casing. There is two small sports where they supposed to go, ut I guess someone forgot to include them on the runners... I could replace it by two Brassin engines but since that costs a wee bit more than what I'm prepared to pay for it, I'll go with option two. Make my own. Fortunately I've got a friend with a high res 3D printer, and I know my way around CAD software so this should be fun! No, I haven't forgotten about the Hornet, in fact it's wheel wells got sprayed yesterday!
  43. 13 points
    Hi guys. After getting the Modelsvit Mirage IIIE a few months ago I've decided to build it as a Swiss Mirage IIIS. For me this is the most interesting derivative of the Mirage III series and a very capable fighter when introduced with the combo of the Hughes Taran 18 radar and Aim-26B missile. What a job it must have been flying one of these beauties through the Swiss Alps! For some context a nice video can be found here if you have a few minutes to spare (the footage is great regardless if you speak French): https://notrehistoire.ch/entries/kOPYgj3dWyz We have the dedicated Kinetic kit in 1/48 scale, however after doing the sums on how much the build would cost me knowing I'd throw a lot of aftermarket at it, I decided I'd prefer to do my ultimate IIIS in 1/32 using the Revell/Italeri kit as basis as the work and expenditure would be similar (I already have numerous AM for it already anyways). That long term 1/32 build is for another day however when I have a new modelling area all set up. Until then I've decided to make a 1/72 version for now and I'll apply what I've learnt here to that build, particularly the NMF which I think will be done by Alclad (not sure yet). PJ productions has recently released a 1/72 Mirage IIIS/RS kit aimed at the later updated variants. A while ago I made a Mirage IIIRS using the original PJ conversion kit on the old Heller kit, to which I had the IIIS resin nose left over with the aim of doing something like this one day. There are various modifications that need to be done to produce an early IIIS from the IIIE, however not nearly as many as the upgraded later versions to which I think the new PJ kit would be the way to go in this scale. I have chosen the Modelsvit kit as the details are unbelievable in the scale, I think the most detailed kit I've had in my hands in 1/72, it's like a very good 1/48 or 1/32 kit hit with a shrink ray in many places. Also I quite like the much disputed rivet detail on the model, maybe under a camo scheme I agree it would look too much in 1/72, but for a NMF it could look very nice, well we will find out. I've got quite a bit of AM for this build too, Matterhorn Circle decals, Reskit Mirage IIIE exhaust (please ignore the paint mark on the box, that was me!), Barracuda Mk.4 seat, Reskit wheels, Master pitot, Maestro Aim-26B or HM-55 in Swiss service and the PJ resin IIIS nose. I know quite a bit but I thought what the heck, my build rate is so slow I just threw everything at it tbh wanting to build the best one I could. The rest of the IIIS conversion work will be scratch built. I would like to make an early example soon after delivery in the mid 60's in a QRA set up with pairs of live Aim-9Bs and Aim-26Bs and supersonic tanks. Maybe 'Geronimo' if I can find when the artwork was applied and is applicable in this period, does anybody know? First up was to remove the Doppler radar under the nose area, AFAIK the Taran radar could ground map also allowing all weather navigation. Modelsvit made this integral and hollow to the front fuselage pieces so after some careful cutting I then glued in some thick plasticard to then shape to the surface contours of the nose area, this is yet to be refined until I glue the halves together to get a nice symmetrical shape. The nose gear bay and door (not pictured) is being extended to take the longer modified IIIS nose leg/fork. I'm using dimensions taken from a real IIIS using an article I found online ages ago that doesn't seem to be around on the 'www' anymore, saves to plan ahead and save interesting articles via pdf for future use! After finding some good images of the underside of an early IIIS I began removing various antennae not present (still some to do) and opening up all the air scoops and drilling the cannon ports, More antennae removed from the fin. I've cut the rudder out in order to build the actuator linkage and displace it although it seems at rest it does look to usually be in the neutral position. Clear light also drilled/installed and blended in, bloody small job in this scale! The exhaust area will have to be thinned quite a bit to get the Reskit exhaust nozzle in which is no bad thing as it is quite thick and overscale imho here. After gluing the rear fuselage halves together I then attached the wings to get the best join I could before attaching the lower piece against the instructions. A black wash shows the join, not bad compared to what I have seen online on many other Mirage builds, this will be filled with Zap a Gap I think. Modelsvit seems to have made a lot of the joining parts not on panel lines which I think is quite a smart way to do it (except the front canopy unfortunately), for me it is easier to fill and eliminate a join opposed to doing the same then rescribing back the panel line on it as most manufactures do. I found I needed some plastic shims on the other side of the vertical fin join. Hopefully the pic also gives an idea of how fine the rivet detail is. Fuselage progress so far. I cut and installed clear lights on the wing tips that will be sprayed with Tamiya green/red clears when painting comes around. If it wasn't for the IIIS modifications I'm doing I think this would be a very quick model to assemble. Next up will be sorting out the gear bays and cockpit area which will need a new specific Swiss IIIS IP, quite different from the IIIE variant. Thanks for looking, David
  44. 13 points
  45. 13 points
    Dear modellers, On one of my many “searching “- travels on the internet , I found two interesting videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkIS4O0DhlM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XjINqpcYo0 I liked this typical french truck, just a straightforward workhorse without frills, so I searched for more information, photographs and even found a good 3- view drawing all the necessery dimensions. It was also a good opportunity to improve my old school french..... Anyhow two years ago this model came into being. d For the building report, please have a look here: https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=48541&sid=5011ccc08c7db0bf3ea3eace064eea1e I hope you like the photographs of this Camion ancien. With kind regards, JohnHaa
  46. 13 points
    Thought I'd give figure painting a go so here we are. DefCon Models Figure Bust 1/10th Scale Completed 23rd March 2019
  47. 13 points
    And now my previous form for Lightnings:- quite a lot to take into consideration By kits. Airfix 1/72 F1A. 5 Sqdn. This model is kitchen foiled. Airfix 1/72 F3. 111 Sqdn Airfix FSW what-if. Matchbox F2A, 92 Sqdn Matchbox F2A with Airfix 19 Sqdn decals. Matchbox F2A, 19 Sqdn. Airfix F2A, 92 Sqdn. Matchbox F6 23Sqdn Matchbox F6, with Hasegawa decals for 11 Sqdn flagship. Matchbox F6, with Hasegawa decals for Lightning Training Flight. Matchbox T55 - converted to an 11 Sqdn T5. Matchbox T55 - USAF what-if Same Matchbox T55 - US Navy what-if, same model as USAF, one side only per service. Matchbox T55VG - FAA what-if Hasegawa F6, 74 Sqdn Revell F6, 23 Sqdn. 23 Squadron only operated NMF Lightnings, moving to Phantoms before camo was introduced. This model represents the Lightning 25 year anniversary in 1979, when Binbrook aircraft were repainted in former Lightning squadron colours. Airfix 1/48 F3, 29 Sqdn. Airfix 1/48 F6, 56 Sqdn Airfix 1/48 F3 with Aeroclub T4 conversion applied. 19 Sqdn.
  48. 13 points
    I get really annoyed when people ask, "Where do you see yourself this time next year?" They seem to think I have 20/20 vision.
  49. 13 points
    Decided to add some of the plumbing (some kind of pipes and vents) so I cut up some electric cable for the wire inside. Pulled a strand of wire gently between the jaws of two small pliers and it straightened nicely. Added some of the pipes and vents using the copper wire plus a handle on the door on the left (major Optivisor job). Having spent some time studying some of the photos I decided that the angled Louvre shouldn't be angled but should be aligned against the superstructure so cut it off and glued it upright: Still very unhappy with that Louvre. I reckoned that as soon as paint was involved the Louvre vents would just disappear under it. I was rifling moodily through my "Spares boxes" (which my wife hates so much) looking for inspiration when I came across an ammo belt I'd made from computer Hard Disk Drive cable for some machine gun or other. Had one of these "lightbulb" moments and hunted down some of the HDD cables I have stashed in the "spares boxes". Found the smallest one, cut a wee bit from it and CA'd a wee bit of micro strip to the side of it then glued it in place... Much better... MUCH better! Happy with this Louvre now! Some pics for an idea of size: And that's my eyesight done for tonight! Auld age doesn't come without its issues.
  50. 13 points
    Happy Friday Eve you lot. Hope you’re having a spiffing week. some more progress after the intake debacle. This is now what I’m headed for. so here goes, deep breath and scrape off all that hard work. that wrecked the kit part pretty much so I sanded her off and started from scratch. I had a tea pig left over from my Lightning build. So I begin there. You can see the texture under the plasticard, which is half way through removal here as it was too thick. tamiya tape cut to side seemed to be the right gauge. I primed then did a quick dry fit. That’ll do. Right time for some glue!!!! The air intake. not bad really. A few seams but PPP will fix those. left to dry and knocked back with a bud and water. Im happy with that. I added some extra lead for the cooler to make em pop then dry fitted. The front. aaaand rear. The scoop got glued but looked a bit thick So I fixed it and added the four little tabs with Tamiya tape. Baddabing! I’m moving on to new bits but I thought I’d ask the hive mind before I commit. First up the tail. Does this look right? I thought it might wiggle left and right but looking at it, it’s not the case. So before I glue I thought I’d ask. Also Mr Scarborough cut out these flaps. I was going to follow suit but is this a bad idea? Did they open? Is there anything bad about having them open? Speak now hive mind, speak. Just before I go I thought I’d share my bitter sweet week. My LMS in the city is to close in the next few weeks. It’s been in Brum for thirty or fourty years. Alas it is to vanish. But every cloud. As we are there almost every dinner time we got a mighty discount on all stock. So. aaaaand today. I have been longing after these for some time so here’s my last chance at a bargain price. Thanks guys. Sorry to flaunt my new purchases but I have nobody else to tell as if “You know who” finds out my life wouldn’t be worth living. Hope you’re enjoying the build this far. I’m off to whittle some UC legs. Take care and as always. Happy Modelling. Johnny plastic.
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...