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Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hey! I took some time the last couple of days to work on the measurements of the ascending floors for the Service Tower. Once I got everything worked out around the Transporter Trailer and Rocket, I decided to cut the floors out of card first. I have several items needing to line up along the front of the tower, and this helps visualize the layout. A pile of card...my cereal boxes... In this photo I have cut out the shapes of the floors and the opening for the rocket... Each floor will have to be custom built. The only common measurement is the side wall. Also these pieces are one part. The "real" floors are made of several parts and handrails. Here you can see the layout of the floors... Now that I have established the floors, I have a number of items to add to these floors. Each floor gets it's own handrails around, I have a lift arm that fits on the front of each floor, interior walls...I have no photos of the interior walls or what the floors looks like. This will be covered up by the top of the tower and items in front. This is a blast people! I'll be back with the first floor completed. Thanks for Looking........ Today's movie: "20 Million Miles to Earth" 1957
  3. Oi! There's nothin' a couple of washes and some dry-brushing cannot replicate perfectly! As others have said already - your abilty to model beautifully weathered structures is truly amazing. You do actually manage to recreate the appearance of years of aging..........even if it takes actual years to produce!! Kind regards, Stix
  4. It's called semi-retirement Vinnie. I'm in the happy position where I can pick and choose work assignments these days.
  5. Vinnie

    WW1 Diorama

    Superb attention to detail. Well done.
  6. Another fantastic presentation. Where do you find the Time?
  7. Svedberg

    A diorama with a nostalgic touch

    The last item to build for the diorama is a lamp post. And as all other things on the diorama, this one was to be as I remember it from my childhood in a Stockholm suburb. I scouted that neighbourhood for posts remaining from that period, but they have all been replaced. I did however manage to find some photos on the web, like this one (from the early 1950s). Note the distinct shape of the lower part of the post. It is that part I was most eager to get right. But with only pictures like this it was hard to get the dimensions correct. But then one day I happened to, by pure chance, stumble upon two lamp posts closer to the city centre, where only the upper parts had been replaced, and the lower parts remained in the original form. Like this. Not in a very good shape, and not in the color I remember, but now I could get decent measurements. The next picture shows how I modelled the lower part of the post, using brass tubes of different dimensions, and styrene strips wrapped around the tubes. The reflector of the lamp post had quite a peculiar shape, as seen in the top photo of this post. Like this, since I am not sure you remember I could not figure out how to convincingly, and manually, create that form from plastic, metal or any other material. From brass using a lathe perhaps, but I do not have a lathe and would not know how to properly handle one, so I decided to once more pursue the path of 3D printing. After some struggling with the Web based 3D modelling tool I am using (Tinkercad) I managed to create a model that looks like this when uploaded to the 3D printing service (Shapeways): My intention was to place a SMD LED inside it, and make the post actually work. Eventually the print arrived, and the first thing to do was to check that it would fit with the rest of the assembly as intended. To the right in the picture below is a reflector as delivered. To the left is a reflector where I have drilled a hole through it for the electrical wires, attached a 1 millimeter brass tube to the hole and threaded two magnet (enamel) wires through the whole thing. In front of the left reflector in the picture above is the 2323 (2.3x2.3 mm) SMD LED that I intended to use to light the lamp post. It is the same type of LED as I used to light the telephone booth. Next it was time to assemble the lamp post. First is a picture where the reflector part is to be soldered to the horizontal part of the post. I had to fit the LED in the reflector and thread the wires before soldering the different tubes together. This since the 90 degree turns would not let me thread the wires afterwards. And here is the final assembly. Nearing the finish line. Primed... ...and the painted a blue-grey color. As I remember, the posts had about this color. Maybe a little more towards green, but since I really do not know this will make do. Lennart
  8. So, I did a tad more on the stream and decided to call this one finished. It's now taken up residence in the unit at the back of my office. This one, depicting the escape across the Solway Firth on 16 May 1568 isn't quite completed yet, as I want to do a bit more work on the Mary Stuart figure who's ditched her cuirass and changed back into civvies. Also need to fix the getaway vehicle driver's green hair.... ....the driver who seems to be saying, "Nope, no way. The deal was one female passenger and her wee scottie dog. The rest of you can just wait for the next boat." The groundwork needs a bit more detail as well. Then the display table will get cleaned up....and after that, I'll on with the next project. Cheers H
  9. Thanks Vince. Two or three additional photos I took today coming up soon.
  10. Another great dio Cadman,lovely job...
  11. Derek A

    Delivering Monty's Tank

    Thanks Badder, it has some of the smallest plastic parts I've ever encountered!
  12. Biggles87

    Going large with a Harrier.......

    You could use a hair dryer to disperse the drops, I've found that works quite well. John
  13. Badder

    Delivering Monty's Tank

    Looking good so far. Nice looking kit. Rearguards, Badder
  14. Last week
  15. I live on the eastern outskirts and you can smell them before you see them when the wind is in the right direction. There's genuinely a fishy smell with a W'ly wind and with a N'ly; well, the sewage farm at Marsh Mills makes it's presence known
  16. Svedberg

    A diorama with a nostalgic touch

    Next up was to make the tree that would be growing to the right of the telephone booth. I made it as a wire armature tree, i.e. making the branches using twisted wires. I used a wood skewer for the core of the stem, creating a straight and fairly well pruned tree. This since the tree shall sit in an urban setting, and not grow freely in the wilderness. Here is a picture of the progress after the first step. I built up the stem using some modelling clay. The branches got some modelling paste to make the wires less obvious. Then I spray painted (rattle cans) the whole thing. First gray and then with some black. Last both the stem and the branches got a brownish wash. Before adding the leaves the tree needed some finer branches. So I sprinkled on some static grass fibres. First 6 mm fibres and then 3 mm fibres. I used ordinary hairspray to make the fibres stick. The picture below shows the tree after this step. The stem is covered with a piece of paper to avoid any hairspray or fibres to end up on it. The next and last step was to add the leaves. I used Noch Leaves, Light Green (#07142). Once again, hairspray was used to "glue" the leaves to the tree. Here is the final result.
  17. In the post above, I drew attention to the cavities in the wall around inner surfaces of the doorway aperture. These are always present in my thicker 'sandwich' walls as I do not bother to sand or file their facing surfaces flat so that they sit flush together. Instead, I use cardboard or wood, or even rolls of paper as spacers. These are CA'd to the back of one wall section and then become the contact/glue surf'aces between it and the other section. Once the walls are fixed together with CA and/or PVA, I then push near-to-setting plaster of Paris into the 'sandwich' into and around the edges. I always 'overfill' the sandwich so that I can file the edges of the walls flush. However, sometimes I want the cavities to be exposed, usually along the tops of walls, or on exposed breaks. Here, I do not fill the cavity with wet plaster, but rather insert crumbled cured plaster into the 'slots' and CA that in place to mimic the rubble/mortar mix which was used to both strengthen the walls and add insulation. Returning to the doorway however, I do not wish to have the cavities exposed. I could have filled them with plaster and filed it down flush, but there was no need to do this as I was going to face the doorway with plasticard anyway. So, I filed and sanded the doorway as true and square as I could and then CA'd plasticard strips around the inner faces of the doorway. These facings will be treated to look like wood. However there were gaps in places, between the facings and the wall. Again, I could have used plaster of Paris to fill the gaps, but I can be very lazy at times, and rather than mix up a tiny amount of plaster, I used plaster dust which I'd produced while scraping and filing and cutting out the doorway. This dust was pushed and brushed into the gaps and then fixed in place with thin CA. Once dry, the excess plaster dust was sanded off. During this process, some paint was accidentally removed from the surrounding wall, but this was fortuitious as it now looks as if the wall had once been painted/plastered. I rather like the effect here and will probably now use the same technique on the other wall surfaces inside the room. Regarding the wall section above... There are SOME areas where the stonework pattern remains after I'd scraped the wall surface flat. I'm going to emphasize these by recarving them. I'm also going to add more pattern, especially along the right hand roof slope, and down that side of the wall. I now plan to collapse part of this wall, this collapse being the cause of the roof's collapse. But before that... the staircase.... TFL Badder PS, Some of you will know that I often build/paint/weather something to an 'interesting' or 'realistic' standard, and then ruin/spoil/alter it at a later date. I've lost count of the times I've thought 'wow, this looks perfect', only for me to fiddle around with it and ruin it. But I stick at it and experiment and nearly always end up with something that looks even better. This is especially true of old buildings, I think. The fact is that it takes decades of sun, wind, rain, snow, ice and intrusion by ivy, mosses, lichen, woodworm, rot, damp, mould etc etc to turn a building into a ruin, and no one can replicate that accumulation with a couple of washes and a bit of dry brushing. I therefore do not worry if my buildings are spoiled, then worked on again, then worked on again and again. These are the layers that make for a realistic effect.
  18. Aeronut

    Horsa D-Day

    Gliders were used for exercises prior to operations, they were also stored in the open, picketed on the edge of airfields. Quite a number of aircraft were recovered from the Normandy LZs, repaired and used again at Arnhem. Look at the films of Arnhem and you will see some Horsa with just two black stripes from the D-day markings on the wings, this is because the white stripes were likely to have been painted in white wash rather than paint as used for the black stripes, and between June and September the white wash was washed off by the rain. The gliders were not all made in the same factory and as such there could be tonal differences between the paint on the wings from one factory and fuselages from another with the tape over the transport joints being painted at the MU where the aircraft was assembled being different in tone and shine as well. Some of these tapes can even be seen being left in the red dope with no finishing paint. In summary pristine examples of the Horsa could be seen alongside weathered ones.
  19. I assume there's plenty of fish in Plymouth as well.....
  20. Derek A

    Delivering Monty's Tank

    Thank you, that's what I'll do then along with some other useful bric-a-brac!
  21. Andrew Jones

    Delivering Monty's Tank

    Apparently early Diamond T's were supplied with ballast , but later deliveries weren't , so ballast was improvised locally . Up to 10 tons of ballast could be carried, either steel or concrete , whatever could be found, so I can see no reason why oil drums full of sand could not be used. Andrew
  22. BIG X

    Horsa D-Day

    I'd be really surprised if they didn't use some for practice. I'm sure you don't just jump in one and go. But, if less than perfect I am pretty certain those practice craft wouldn't be sent into the front line. I may be wrong...
  23. There's plenty of those in Plymouth
  24. Ratch

    Horsa D-Day

    They did practice with them before the assault. I have pictures of Horsas and Wacos at Spanhoe in '43-4, training for the airborne invasion.
  25. Here's the doorway giving access to the upper room. The staircase up to this door will be aligned with the paintbrush. I decided not to use the fancier plastercast window surrounds as filing them down to the correct thickness is a delicate, tedious and sometimes fruitless task due to breakages. Instead, I stuck with the original design, making a copy in plasticard and sticking it in place with medium CA. Notice the exposed cavities in the doorway. These are the gaps left between the two back-to-back plaster casts that form the wall. TFL Badder
  26. Hi Rich, I'm having second thoughts about the roofs intersecting. I am struggling to find a justification for building them that way. i will have a think about it some more. Yes, I absolutely do like the barn door idea. I will be fitting it in somewhere. And yes, a fair bit of broken glass. Rearguards, Badder
  27. I really need to get my eyes tested. I read that as, "That bum looks nice and trouty", and couldn't figure out what fish had to do with it....
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