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Sci-Fi Content

Showing topics in Science Fiction Discussion, RealSpace Discussion, Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace, Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace and Sci-fi & Real Space Reviews and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

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  3. Hello-I just purchased the Polar Lights 1/1000 Enterprise refit. Where is a good site to go and see how this builds. I know it is mostly a big canvas for tons of decals. I do remember seeing a You Tube build by a place called Trek Works? I really don't want to start off by making silly mistakes. I built the PL 1/1000 TOS a few years ago but it had nowhere near as many decals as this. Thanks- jon.
  4. Thanks everybody. I really appreciate the nice comments. I've recently made some progress on this, so here's a quick update... I finally found a suitable figure for the pilot. The 1/24 Fujimi figure was way too big. This resin figure is 1:35 and looks much more in scale. So yeah, the vehicle is now officially 1:35 scale. I think with the right paint job, he can be made to look a bit more 'futuristic'. With that sorted, I added some panels to the sides, added a few greebles on top and started to fill out the front. All along I had been planning to scratch-build the cab, but as time has worn on, that started to look less and less attractive. Now that I had settled on 1:35 as a scale, I decided to see what I could find for a truck kit to transplant. I was at the local stationary shop, (which has a weird assortment of model kits) and this Italeri M-977 Hemtt jumped out at me. Without knowing how it would work out, I threw caution to the wind and here it is: It's a bit of a departure from the original sketch. I think the cab is sitting too high. I think it needs to move down a bit. Thanks for stopping by.
  5. Glad to hear it!. Yeah, definitely get some, it's cheap, re-usable and very forgiving. There are a bunch of youtube videos showing how to use it as well.
  6. Thanks for the nice comment. The problem is that I tend to work in short bursts, followed by extended periods of inactivity, where I'm planning how I'll tackle the next problem. So a project can drag on forever. My last model took something like 19 months. It can be hard to sustain interest without getting distracted by ideas for 100 other models I'd like to build.
  7. Hello friends, the marking of the separation point on the LO2 Feedline was more difficult than expected due to the limited space conditions, but then I still succeeded. And then I bravely took the saw, and the job was done. These are the first images after the separation of the Feedline with the realization that the short bow was much harder to handle for testing, which is why I had to think of a new solution. And so I came back to my Transparency stencil, which was made for it and only had to be slightly shortened. This allowed the bow with the stump above the Umbilical plate to be inserted into the large opening of the template and kept relatively stable. And by clamping the template in my Mini vise, the bow was easy to see from all sides. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the front of the bow did fit under the Cable Tray, which was visible by placing the paper template. But after putting on the 0,5 mm Styrene support plate, the disillusionment came immediately, because I had not thougt of it that the Cable Tray is also 0,5 mm thick, and the support plate with this then would be flush, but this is not correct because it must sit a little lower. Consequently, either a thinner support plate ago, or the plate had to be ground down to about 0,3 mm, which I then have preferred. But more on that later.
  8. It's smaller than the recent Revell snap kit, right? Even if so, this is a very good looking kit. I may have to get rid of my MPC/Revells!
  9. In a very close look at the model of the AT-AT, or an enlarged photo, it is possible to see the grainy appearance in the painting. And I understand that you are not happy with it. But I love the final look of the model. I find it very realistic and very well achieved. And I also love the brown dirt of the legs and some parts of the head and the main body. It is certainly enviable what you have achieved. In my opinion, if you allow me the advice, it would be appropriate to perform some chipping with a sponge and a very dark rust in some angled places of the legs. I think it would increase the high realism already achieved. Andrés.
  10. Here's a rather large update. While I intended on following Andy's steps to do this AT-AT as well, I ended up experimenting but a lot of things went wrong, starting with the primer. I had a bottle of Vallejo black but it was very old and had the consistency of peanut butter, so I added acrylic thinner to be still able to use it. I then airbrushed it on, but it was like dust on the model... Since I didn't have anything else, I figured I would just go over it with a clearcoat in the end to seal it, but the rough texture remains and it can be seen in all of the pictures. 20 by Nick N This is with the pre-shading for the darker color to be seen through the lighter grey using chipping fluid. But, because of the rough texture, it almost looked like it got sanded. Not the effect I wanted and won't be doing it like this next time. 19 by Nick N Very rough and the effect is way too much. in the end I went over it again with some grey to tone it down. 18 by Nick N Same here. Rough texture from basecoat is very visible. 19 by Nick N, on Flickr The oil paint wash also didn't behave like I wanted because of the texture, even after the gloss coat. It was difficult to clean up. index by Nick N And then I forgot to take pictures and here it is nearing the end result. Not quite what I wanted, but i'll do it completely different next time, using different techniques and a good basecoat (got a new bottle now). 11 by Nick N, on Flickr 10 by Nick N, on Flickr Effect on the yellow plates is too heavy and I wanted to get it done fast since my patience ran out since the result wasn't what I wanted,. 9 by Nick N, on Flickr Again, using oils, I blended it to add contrast, but way too heavy. Next time I will do it with the preshading and masking for a more subtle effect. 8 by Nick N, on Flickr 4 by Nick N, on Flickr You can see how the texture affected the chipping fluid when removing the top layer. It also catches light and affected every other technique I did afterwards. And on to the AT-ST. 3 by Nick N, on Flickr Added some roots from weeds to the diorama. Glued them with wood glue. 12 by Nick N, on Flickr Added some noch leaves. Next time I will get different ones. Didn't realise these were from a real tree and look a bit odd. Should also wear gloves. 13 by Nick N, on Flickr Added soms ground texture to the top of the roots to simulate mud. Will paint it when it's dry, add a wash to the roots and ground and finish it with a matte coat. 13 by Nick N, on Flickr Also added soms twigs and ferns under the foot to make it look as if it was standing on vegetating and branches. 14 by Nick N, on Flickr Added some leaves on the model as well.
  11. Sorry to tell you that the white background is not the best to appreciate the work on the model. It is difficult for me. Surely, as in the first photos of the delivery, a blue background would be more suitable to better appreciate the work done. Andrés.
  12. I use the free mode and the photo capacity is realy 1,000. From 1,000 or professional or you have to delete photos to add others. I think it is enough to upload photos of many models. By the way, lovely AT-ST !! Andrés.
  13. Flickr is a decent hosting site, and the one I use. You can upload you photos to the site at full rez, then select what size you want to post them at on BM etc. You are limited to, I think, 200 photos as a free user, after which you'd need to upgrade to a pro account which isn't that cheap anymore. Sadly, that's the trend with most image hosts these days. If the 200 photo limit is sufficient for you in the short term, then I'd definietly recommend the service. Andy
  14. I'd like to post some pictures, but I am not sure where I can upload them to resize them? Photobucket and websites like that all seem to have vanished. I now send them to my Facebook chat and copy the link from there but then the images are too heavy for here. Any ideas?
  15. Thank you very much! It took about 8 months, but with a lot of back and forth, several times I had to scrap things that did not work as intended. If I had to go about it again, knowing what I am doing, it would be closer to 5 months. George
  16. 22 SEPTEMBER 1993 STS-51 landing Crew: Frank Culbertson (CDR); William Readdy (P); James Newman; Daniel Bursch; Carl Walz (MS) Landing site: Kennedy Space Center The main objective had been the deployment of the Advanced Communications Technology Satellite. Flight time was 9d 20h 11m, 157 orbits, a day later than planned because of high winds and cloud cover over Cape Canaveral.
  17. I've just measured it, and the vent/fan thingie would be about 250 meters in diameter on the real thing. I think you could probably fit the Falcon between those blades. I'm guessing it's a giant Saniflo waste extractor connected to the ships plumbing system Andy
  18. Fabulous, you have created exactly the feel of the movie. Your skill and eye for detail is amazing! How long did this project take? Rob
  19. Super creation, the diorama really finishes it off! Congrats
  20. Supposedly the Bandai LED version comes with instructions (video?) detailing how to utilize the clear parts? Can you confirm? If it is a video... got a link?
  21. Yes you would considering its pretty openly available info.
  22. Great mini tutorial on how to use blue-stuff. Very clearly explained. I can see me using some of this at some point not too far away.
  23. Last week
  24. Meanwhile I lay awake at night thinking about how cool and well done this project is. Hahaha
  25. I've just caught-up with this, and have been rather impressed with your attention to detail and the work you've done. I've got the same task ahead of me one day with the smaller 1:96 Revell offering, which has (so I'm told) a whole heap of different problems! You'd think they'd be able to get the most well-known rocket in the world right somehow, wouldn't you?
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