Vehicle Content

Hello there, A quick update on the latest days: The decals were applied in two stages, first the silver stripes, then the sponsors. Although the decals are of exceptional quality, the complexity of the cars' shapes and my experience in this field meant that I had a few difficulties, but the result is still very satisfactory. The front wing The main body The whole will dry for 2 days (to allow the decals to evaporate completely) and then receive its coat of semi-gloss varnish, which should dry for 5 days. That's all for tonight Best regards Vincent

Thank you Chris, I'm verry pleased by your comment, because it's my first f1 kit ever Thanks mate, I hope my build will help or inspire you

The first Humber Bridge , Hull classic meet of the year was held tonight (Friday) . Very well attended with all sorts on show . Here’s a few I know some of you will find interesting . Firstly after raving about my white Nova GTE I had in the 90s in another topic on here , look what was on show ! Not my old one , sadly , but near identical Nothing special really , but just , well , special Something for @Toftdale Finally , just magnificent and that engine ! Gary .

This kit has arrived in the UK , and also my doorstep ! Interestingly unbranded , but I have plans ….. Gary .

I like this subject, would have been better with an engine...

LC2 vs R18. Mmm. Tough choice.

Sweet build on the 911, but the Sauber is a beaut!

Can't say I do - also hate any Porsche that Koenig ruined....!! 🤣 K

This one?

I would have to agree that this is definitely too good to throw away, keep it for as long as you can. With regard to the comment about the decals, when I have one which crosses over a panel gap I usually install the whole decal first, then once it has dried cut down the panel gap with a sharp scalpel. Only then do I put on Microsol (or other solution) to get the decal to conform to the panel gap - with the cut it will settle better and having been installed as one it will automatically align across the gap.

Got to agree with the others, both look very nice.

I think what surprises me more than anything is how much that V8 looks like it belongs. Good work.

1/12th scale. As far as materials go, it tends to be from all sorts of odds and ends kicking around my workshop. It just depends on what lends itself to whatever part(s) I am making. In the main I use plastics, metal and wood. I don't 3D print anything or mould resin parts as I prefer using mainly hand tools and some small standard engineering machinery, a lathe, toggle press and milling machine being my main go to items. What many guys are producing off 3D printers is absolutely amazing, don't get me wrong. But it is not an avenue I wish to go down with my model making a I get more satisfaction by manually making things. Before retiring I worked as an Engineeriing Cad Cam Technician at a local high school and before that in industry as a CNC machine programmer so pleased to get away from PC screens in my workshop and using paper plans.

Wow! Some serious hacking going on here. Looks awesome.

Very well done! I like this version better than the original one.

It seems he hasn't grasped the concept of the racing line.😃 I can't sneer, back in eighties I went to Brands Hatch for 20 laps on a racing school Honda VF400. Not only did I go straight on at Druids twice. I also took to the grass no less than three times at Surtees. The VF400 is not a motocross bike.🤣 I didn't fall off though, I saved that moment for the ride back to London when I braked on a patch of oil while at about 10mph in heavy traffic. 🥴

That looks absolutely brilliant! Trevor

That's a very nice little Porker, the colour really suits it! I've got one of these on the stalled shelf, I agree about the lack of RHD option! Keith

Keep taking the pills! The car is looking rather excellent. A great idea and execution.

He just fancied rallycross more than circuit racing....!! 🤣 Keith

THAT IS AWESOME! Sorry for shouting, but it's truly stunning!

Apologies for absence, Real Life keeps interfering with modelling and other Important Things! However, it's final assembly time and once I got started I didn't want to pause to post progress images until I had the full set, I may have to split this post as it'll be a bit image-intensive but I'll see how it pans out. Here goes... First the street rod's lower body/floorpan assembly was finally mounted on the chassis... Then it was time to glaze the truncated 2CV bodyshell and fit the wipers... Then the floor went on... ...followed by the seats... ...steering column assembly (including transmission selector)... ...and finally the bodyshell. The dash was fitted at some point prior to this but I can't remember exactly when, it's all a blur... The modified radiator was then finally installed... ...and the rear finally received some attention. A raid on the spares box yielded a set of ideal tail lights and a bumper assembly from a Jaguar E-Type which was dimensionally correct and just needed the ends shortening. Round at the sharp end the nosecone and struts were fitted and aligned. Finally the intended shape emerged... All that was need now were the headlights (from the street rod) and door handles. The car is now essentially complete bar a few bits of final fettling and detailing so this will be the final entry in this particular thread. Here's a few pics to tide you over until I can get round to creating an RFI thread... Huge thanks as always for your company, interest and comments during this slightly lunatic build. I've enjoyed it immensely and I hope you have too. However, you'll probably be relieved to hear that I'm sticking to OOB builds for a while (I know, I know, I've said it all before) until the next mental aberration hits! Cheers for now.

Try @jenko.they are in his tagline. Matt

I remember seeing this car on the tracks. Wonderful job!

I commented on your weathered rally car version before reading this stock “before” build, very nice! Your final gloss on this one looks quite realistic. I’ve never been a big fan of the over-glossed thick 2K two-part polyurethane clear coat finishes that a lot of car modelers prefer. The Mr Color GX 100 thinned 1:1 with Mr Leveling thinner is my go-to clear coat on auto subjects with a lacquer base coat, apply multiple thin coats 2-3 times with 15-20 min between coats than a final wet coat and then overnight cure. When dry, no stickiness. Best part is, unlike other lacquer clear coats (i.e. Tamiya TX-13), GX 100 does not eat decals.