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That’s a very good way of describing it. I’ve spent some time sharpening up the detail on the springs, but it still needs something else. I’ll probably try some panel line accent colour and see how that looks.
Looks really nice kit and Engine looks well detailed. I will follow with interest.
That kit is a real curate's egg; the engine looks nicely-detailed but the springs look 'soft'. Almost like it was moulded by a number of different people!
I was convinced that those outdoor shots were of a real car! Amazing modelling, and a pleasure to look at. My dad owned one of these when stationed in France with the RCAF,,before I was even born. I'll have to see If I can find the slide photos, I know they are soemwhere... Cheers John
I picked up a few things this week. I asked my local model shop to put the Jaguar kit aside for me before the lockdown and when I saw the Fiat kit I thought it would go nicely with my Tamiya 1960s 500s. I also picked up a few bits for my N gauge model railway.
Staying tuned...like very much Ron
Morning chaps Early morning job today. I've put the 3 chromed caps over the cam cover. It's been difficult to remove the sprue residues under the caps, due to their very small size, but it was necessary in order to manage placing them correctly Decals also have been placed on the cam cover. And the exhaust pipes have been fixed. Then I decided to improve the intake manifold, as I did for the first MB, but in an even better way. So, I added small strap of BMF Aluminium over the black tubing to simulate the SERFLEX clamps.
Brilliant ! ...some version of Traction Avant is a car I've always wanted since I was a kid..looking at what a real one goes for nowadays a 1/35 version is probably the nearest I'll get now Lovely model you've created there..
Hello Daniel, the new print is ever on the way, that is why this trial with the object placed perpendicular to the plate will only be possible later (at about 1:30 PM). However, as I said above, the items need to be tilted to get a good printing. As you kindly made this air inlet for me, there is nothing I can refuse you, and so OK, I will do that print as soon as possible, but I am rather sceptical (I just want to be wrong ). You told me in PM that you have a friend experienced in 3D printing, can you ask him his point of view about such a suggestion, please? ATB, Oli
Can you also try one perpendicular to the build plate like Pouln suggesteed?
Hello again, I just made a new preparation of my air inlet, for this new (and probably last) attempt with my Anycubic White resin. I took even more care using very narrow supports (the ones supporting the stems must be perfectly centered under the latter), and with a layer thickness of 10 um, as mentioned above. I made 4 copies of this object and placed them in different positions (I am not sure that is what Poul meant but it will be interesting anyway to see if the results are exactly the same or not): N.B: - there is a repai
Hello to all, hello Poul and thanks for this suggestion. First, I show you my last attempt with the last settings: the main difference is the use of very thin tip and arms supports. As this printer is great with its monochrome screen (new technology allowing to leave much more light to go through), all the supports, even very narrow, are though finely printed. There were also less supports for this trial, and so their removal was much easier and faster (it remains a very delicate job). You will see below that these changes of supports parameters had very good consequences on the final res
I spent all day Saturday at the bench putting the decals on. I don't get along well with decals and these were pretty brittle and broke apart in a few places. I found that there were some rough finish in some areas of the decals like there was some 'grit' mixed in with the ink. They also didn't respond to any of the decal solutions I threw at them. In the end good old hot water and heated pads for soft paper towel worked the best to get them to conform and lay flat. I then spent much of today laying thin coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear over the top. This seems to have worked out pretty well a
Cracking on at breakneck speed now!! I was labouring with removing the seam lines as per my last post. I use needle files and then smooth down with various grades of wet and dry paper. My needle files were cheap and now quite old and I’ve got arthritis in my fingers so it was a real drag catching hold of the narrow diameter handle. So I treated myself to a nice new set of reasonably good 100mm needle files with wooden handles .... what an improvement. A picture of the new toys follows here - So with the seam lines removed and partly smoothed, I had a collection of chassis
Jorgen, a wonderful presentation and just as I'd have chosen to do it. Displayed at a classic meet or Sotheby's auction - brilliant. But as is my custom, I can be annoying with 'what if' ideas and I ache to see one carried out on this model which is so deserving. My only wish is that you fashion a set of brass bumpers, which is well within your skill set. And then, have them chromium plated as my Rolls and all Cox models carry. The shapes are simple and delicate and with your spectacular black finish would make this a '100 Point' motorcar. Forgive my meddling - this is in no wa
Ooo I love a good roll cage ! I tend to build roll cages sides first , then add rear sections and add roof last . I glue each section as I do this , then , once all secure wrap in masking tape to hold it all tight until the glue sets . Good detailing on the interior. Nice . Gary .
All the old-school Airfix kits I've seen have pretty good under sides. Even the E-type has quite a nice reproduction of the Jaguar IRS. It's a pity the bit on top, which you spend most of your time looking at, isn't better done in some cases (not the Maserati, it must be said).
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