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  2. Hello. I do not know a thing about trains except Mr Michael Portillo lives wildly in them with his coral pink and peppermint green dinner jackets and that they sell revoltingly inedible snacks for a tenner per joule. Fig. 1. Michael used to make the Spanish trains run on time. My wife does love the whole train thing though. She finds the early 20thC trains almost spellbinding, with their association with the Great War and whatnot and frequently breaks out into Helena Bonham-Carter Edwardian mode. Question is, where to look to start building her a nice small replica train and carriage? Presumably suitable WW1 era steam train models are out there. Scale 1/72nd or so? I wouldnt know OHOO gauge things from Yoko Ono, if that makes any sense. It should. Oh, Yo-oh-oh-Ko. Fig. 2. Yoko in happier times. What is a nice WW1 train kit to build, plastic probably? Thanks for looking. If this is the wrong forum section, apologies. Seemed like a good choice at the time.
  3. Today
  4. Morning chaps, I was rather optimistic when I left you yesterday evening, thinking the war was won: Cheers, O
  5. Fantastic! Thanks Nick. If I can help with info/pictures/dimentions etc let me know. Looks like all the head port flanges are the same, just that the front three are oriented 90deg differently from the rear three on each bank. Malc.
  6. Hello Nick. Crikey, you make it sound so simple. Ok, I'll try and get those measurements to you - I do have a digital caliper. It would be preferable to have the pipes come from the 'collector' (if that's the right term) of each 4 end pipes. Bear with me. Seriously, are you ok to do this? Do you know what sort of cost we are talking about. Many thanks to both you and Malc for your interest and responses. I'm coming to N Wales tomorrow, visiting a friend in Conway. I used to live on Anglesey.
  7. Sorry for late response, im in the middle of floor replacment and the cars are stashed behind some other stuff. Ill get you the distance as soon as they are free.
  8. Oh I've been through any number of wires Malc. I have some copper armature for posable figures but it's even harder to bend. I've ordered some of the 2.5mm solder as per your suggestion. Yes, I checked out @nick, wonderful stuff he's producing.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Hi all, only just seen this. Looks easy enough. I’m guessing the exhaust flanges are all the same? And what in what looks like 4 banks of 3 at a constant pitch? They look like they are equal length pipes too? just need a few measurements and I’ll knock something up - have you got a digital caliper? They look like they are equal length pipes too? OK looked properly now, so I think you’re saying Tamiya didn’t model anything inside the vee? If so, you actually just need 4 flat plates with 3 flanges, studs, nuts and curly pipes each going to a collector and tailpipe. That’s easier so I just need the height and width of each plate, the distance between the inside faces of the vee, and the distance and height offset of where the collectors start and end. And also where the tailpipes drop down and end if you want those making too.
  11. Currently working on the throttle bodies which are fairly complex, curvy beasts with different tube profiles top and bottom. Pretty much cracked them I think Nick
  12. I’m getting close to how I want the block to print now after about 20 iterations, here’s one in paint. im grappling with banding issues with the printer that I just can’t get to the bottom of, otherwise pretty happy with the latest model and support structures. Nick
  13. Good luck. Hope it works out OK for you. Trevor
  14. Ouch. I have to agree with the other comments - I'd cut my losses and buy some replacement decals, or just paint it plain red.
  15. To be quite honest it would be nice if I didn't have to do that on a model! . Yes I know get the violins out! If I can get a decent result by touching up the decals then I'll settle for decent! Nick
  16. Hi Tony, This is the only other pic I could find:- http:// 2.5mm solder wire here:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393418510430?hash=item5b9992105e:g:i8QAAOSw~nFf2Lmq I agree its hard not to add flats to the wire with the pliers. How about copper wire as an alternative? The only other technique I have seen is to roll sausages of milliput, drape them to the shape you want and let it set, but there is no adjustability afterwards and you would still probably get flat spots from handling, but I want to have a go doing this at some point. What appeals to me about this is that you can produce the exact diameter you want by having 2 slats of the required thickness placed 6in apart to control the thickess of the sausage by using a piece of plastic across the slats to roll the sausage. I was kinda joking about @nick, but half hoping that he would jump in! I think he is fully busy with his 1/8 F40 engine, but it would not hurt to ask him? Malc.
  17. Looks superb! Can you do a Cosworth DFV next please?! Or even better a Coventry Climax FWMV? I just remembered that a coupla years ago a guy was 3D printing a BMW 801 engine in about 1/5 or maybe 1/4 scale. Malc.
  18. Brilliant response as usual, Malc, you always make me feel better about my progress. Yes, exhausts and me... well, they just have to be right, don't they? I'm actually using 2.5mm soft aluminium wire from www.wires.co.uk, couldn't find solder wire that thick. It's quite maleable but also marks easily with pliers or any other tool so bending is not as easy as it seems. I have only this reference for the centre 'vee': Does @nick produce custom 3D parts?
  19. So did some work on the turbos and exhausts and added another decal (these big decals are a real pita I think I in the future I may cut big decals into smaller ones. I'm really peed off I've got to take the rear suspension all off as I've forgotten to add the air cooling ducts to the disks, gthey were a pain in the first place.
  20. You beat me to it, but I was going to say that your summary of the process looked right. I was going to clarify too that you're probably best off using a 3000/4000 grit sanding medium like you would for flatting back orange peel, but it looks as though you used something similar there. Just to be clear, for the best end result you would need to get a new set of decals, and probably end up going right back to a bare plastic body. But you should still be able to get a decent result touching up the decal (this is where a 10/0 brush and magnifying headset will really come in handy). The white will be the hardest to get an exact colour match, but you should be able to get reasonably close. For the black, it's unlike that any difference in colour will be visible. After you've touched up the paint (and tested the touch up with the clear for a reaction) add a couple of mist coats then go with the heavier wet coats. The existing clear will help to protect the decal to quite a degree so you should run less risk of further damage than when you first painted it. Good luck, you've done the scary bit so it should get better from here.
  21. Hi Tony, You don't seem to have much luck with exhausts! I agree, IMHO the lack of any coherent exhaust joint to the cylinder heads is the worst part of this kit. Although I believe the very first issue of this kit (and Tamiya's first F1 in 1/12) included wheels that were so wrong they retooled them. It took me years to find a picture of the centre vee of this engine with the exhausts removed. Seems like you are doing it the way I would, I assume you are using solder wire for the exhausts? You just have to take it one header at a time and using plenty of blutack to hold the finished parts in the right position, move on to the next and prepare for lots of reworking! Your jig to replicate the exhaust ports off the engine is a good idea. Short of CAD drawing and 3D printing the exhausts, I know of no other simple way to do this! We need to commission @nick to print some for us - I would buy a set........ Malc.
  22. Hi Ron, Nice to see how well your effort to get the colors right paid off - great finishes! And, thanks for the tip on how to use colors to gain desired effect! (dark next to light) - I had no idea - Cheers Nick
  23. Good morning everyone this little project is quickly coming to an end the front suspension was made up along with the 5th wheel (steering head), primed and gloss black top coat everything apart from the wheels is now finished and ready to be attached my next post will be possibly tomorrow with a final reveal
  24. Thanks for the comments and advice all. Much appreciated. Another layer of clear added and decal sanded back and smooth With some super thin layers of paint it might you never know just be possible... Nick
  25. Now, I'm expecting someone far brighter and intelligent than myself to instantly solve this problem as I'm fully aware there are several members of this community whose modelling skills are way above my own and are rather jolly good at this sort of thing. I've been working on this model for several years (as usual!) and was never satisfied that Tamiya merely truncated the exhaust system with (uneven) straight down pipes simply 'resting' on the top of the engine block. I've pored over scores of online reference images and only in the last few months realised that the pipes actually connect to the inside of the walls of the block. However, trying to work out the bend of each pipe, in more than one plane, is far beyond the capacity of my tiny addled 'one cell at a time' brain (mind you, it appears that the chaps at Tamiya, in those early days, also had a headache with this one, as far as I can see their pipe profiles are not exactly true to the real thing). There's got to be an easier way than how I'm tackling it. So, come on you wonderful engineers, give us a glimpse of those scale drawings you've already drawn up on this subject... If I ever manage to solve the puzzle myself I'll be sure to bequeath my working progress to this wonderful institution - damn, better start making some notes.
  26. Mulliner bodied Bentley R, I think. Parked outside Warringtons... /stalker I saw the red SD1 again today. Will try to pull over if I see it again.
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