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Vehicle Content

Showing topics in Vehicle Discussion, Work In Progress - Vehicles, Ready For Inspection - Vehicles and Vehicle Reviews and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Don’t forget the the bunny slippers! Ah! The eccentricities of us Pocher builders, lol
  3. Thanks Wayne. 569 pictures are restored as of tonight. Less than 400 to go. Yawn - Putting my jammies on now..........
  4. I’m really looking forward to the restoration of this thread for all to enjoy again
  5. Yesterday
  6. Brian, I just posted to your thread, I hope it helps. And, as long as I'm here I might as well post a quick update. I'm still waiting on the pipe bends from Plastruct for the turbo pipe exhaust but, I intend on getting back to the waste gate tomorrow. I've been dealing with real world wife car issues the last three days straight so, not much time to work on this one. The key word there is "wife" so, I hope that conveys the urgency to all. And, it's still not fixed despite now being in and out of the repair shop 3 days in a row.
  7. OK, here's what I did in Postimage. I logged into my account and selected a picture then, I selected/clicked on the share button. A menu comes up with 8 choices, you want "direct link". You then click on the direct link clipboard on the right side of the line and it copies the link. You should have both the Postimage website open on one page tab in your internet browser and your thread open on another page tab. Click on the insert image from URL box like at the bottom here in the forum and then right click and paste it. The link will show up in the box and then click on post to thread. BTW this is the painted body of my WIP Monza. I just picked a picture at random to remember how it worked directly from the hosting site. Now, mind you, I had already resized the picture down to the 480 x 640 thumbnail size before doing this and I'm assuming that you know how to do it and that you should be doing it as a matter of practice when posting any pictures to the forum to keep the size to a minimum for the forum admin. I hope that helps and it's not too confusing.
  8. I cut and fitted the Lexan into place. It's water-clear and looks smashing in person. The gap under center of the frame will be shimmed and puttied, but care needed to allow for body paint thickness. Will wrap and store windscreen for safety until late in the build. There are no marks on it. Would like to cut side and rear Lexans -coming soon: Forlorn... Here sits 1616 hours of work, awaiting while recovering from hospital work: A little recovery... Slowly over the last couple of days I got back to doing small things. Boy it feels great when working but I pay a price after... I started slowly with a masking project on the rear body work. No rush, so I took a day for that. As the temps warmed to the 50F, I shot two build primer coats and one mist guide coat in black then an overnight dry. This in an effort to perfect the sweep panels and get them flat. The roof will remain masked so that the fabric covering bonds to raw plastic and not paint. That's quite a way off. Sanding tomorrow to get flat and find any low spots. I tackled a nit pick job of perfecting the windshield opening to match the brass frame. I cut thin strips of .030, .020 and .005 styrene to build the curvature at the bottom center. A little sanding and back and forth fittings blends them into a gradual curve. The frame is a now a press fit snug but when painted, I will relieve the paint build-up and make it a light press fit. A smear of Bondo may be needed across the front edge - will see when I get some primer on that area. A question arose about the planning stages: I figure at least 1/3 additional hours were planning, parts searching and designing how things would look and then assemble. Maybe more but I thankfully was not SO anal as to log that. The brainstorm for the color sweep alone really tacked-on time. To say nothing of the body and top cuts and chassis changes. And then there's the cost factor. I have steadfastly ignored that on purpose. Guide coating; a big help- Here's my method to get really flat (meaning smooth) paint. It's a messy, time-consuming process. But to me, worth it. The primer (Duplicolor Perfect Match) and guide coat (any flat black) seen above is now being wet sanded to reveal the low spots. I set up near a sink filled with dish soap (a couple drops) and warm water. I soak 400 grit in that with a foam sanding block. I make these blocks from dense garage foam floor tiles, cut to the shapes I need to get into all tight places. This one is is narrow to fit into the space at the rear just above the wheel arch. I spray water onto the body surface and sand, frequently resoaking the paper to clean it. Working carefully with medium pressure, you can see the black remains in the low spots. These spots are too shallow for putty so they require the build up of primer. Blow off any water in nooks and crannies with shop air and wipe the dry area of work with isopropyl before re-priming. When the black stops coming off, that's where you've cut enough primer to flatten quite a bit of the surface. The next step is a repeat of this process with 2 fairly good coats of prime (to fill those low spots as much as possible) and a spritz of flat black to find the remaining shallow areas. When all is well a final light coat of prime will be shot overall and sanded with 600 for the first color coats. So if you want concours paint on large surfaces this method works well for me. Just don't expect overnight results: Bondo and primer for a smooth area under the 'screen and on the cowl sides which meet the side cladding: No gaps and a light press fit: he third application of primer and guide on the rear quarters drying tonight for sanding tomorrow. Should be as good as I can get it then. Resolving problems / making better progress... Seen here in an earlier view, the door is hung and alignment of all the elements is very good. Harder to see is that the front upper edge (where the latch will engage the cowl, has the door slightly ajar. This is due to the fact that the Sedanca cowl pinches inward quite a bit from the rear main body: After considerable hot water bending the door now meets the cowl perfectly at this area and will latch with no tension. The other door is seen with a clip to hold it closed - needs the heat treatment too. The door handles are fragile and would not last long otherwise. Note that the heat treatment has not loosened or damaged the beltline or sweep cladding: The cowl and windshield frame are now perfected and sanded to 600. The rocker panel will come shortly: If anyone doubts the effectiveness of the previously shown guide coating process, here is the proof. The main cabin area has been finished with the final prime coat after the low spots were filled by the process. It is flat and sanded to 600. Continuing work on the body will be done using thin soft foam as protection for the skin. A lot of work - yes - but for me the only way to concours paint using lacquer on large areas: Moving ahead, attention to the doors is next. Here, their edges have been shimmed with strip stock and blended to fit the openings. Paint clearance will further slim the gaps for a smooth look. The window frames and latch are next to be mounted and fiddled with: The near finished door skins. These will also get guide coats for priming but are smaller and stiffer than the main body area was so are mostly already very flat. These are sanded to 400 right now; they will be primed in gray upper (under the dark red) and white lower as discussed below: An important and exciting (for me) test of the color for the body sweep. Three spoons are tested. One has the regular gray primer, the second has no primer (the raw spoon is white plastic) and the third has white primer. All are shot with two coats of color (called Krylon Sweet Cream) and two coats of clear. Note that the first is a weak, diluted color because of the gray base, The second is a truer color but note that it's a dull finish. This is because the lacquer is too hot for the raw plastic and etches the surface. The last is the solution; white primer / color / clear. A hard high gloss. Final polishing will improve it further. All are shown resting on the unpolished but cleared trunk lid. Take the time to test your ideas to avoid disappointments. The two colors are just what I hoped they'd be. More preparation... The problem; get the rear fenders to mate securely to the main body and the trunk, with no gaps. The front half of the fenders-to-body has already been secured with my '2mm bolt' fix, which allows them to be removed many times for fitting purposes. That was shown earlier in the thread. The overall sequence goes like this; floor bolts to chassis (on 4, 2mm studs), body clamped to floor (by fabricated rocker panel clamps also seen earlier), and trunk bolts to chassis (on 2, 2mm studs). So now to 'pin' the rear half of the fenders to the trunk and have a stable, solid coach. The thought occurred that a very effective method explained by Paul Koo in his CD might work but slightly differently. Paul shows the 'melting method'; sinking Pocher screws into their holes with a heated soldering iron. This stops the break-out of screw holes because of their taper as the hot screw creates its own threads deep in the plastic and allows removal. Because of the radical changes to my car like rotating the fenders, sectioning the trunk and the general relocation of the body, none of the original Pocher hole locations are useful. The inside wall of the fender needs to mate to the outside wall of the trunk, which overlaps the chassis rail. The simple solution is to run a screw straight through the fender wall into the trunk wall. But there's the old problem of just a few removals and you have a stripped hole which holds nothing. So why not a bolt and nut solution?; I chose an 0-80 bolt, washer and nut for the strength. The key being to melt the nut in place (making it captive) on the back side of the trunk wall. After much measuring and trial / error, the suitable location was found and holes drilled. The key is to thread the bolt through the trunk wall and nut and then apply the heat. This keeps hot plastic out of the threads: Being lucky rather than good, this is how the bolt up looks outside. Fender tight to the trunk. DON'T overtighten the bolt; just get the parts to touch together with no gap and you're good. For a bit of peace of mind, mix some 5 minute epoxy and CAREFULLY make a mound around the shoulder of the nut, taking care to keep the threads clean. The overall result and what you're after; hope this tip is of use to Pocherphiles: A slow return to the bench... Time to re-think some past assemblies and plan some other new ones. One such project is the cabin's carpet. Much earlier in the build I showed my solution with velour doll house carpet and 'binding' I made with shrink tube. It never really suited me although it was acceptable. Fast forward nearly a year and I finally noodled-out a plan for proper binding. I came across leather piping or lacing as it's known, which was the big 'lights-on' idea. Here is the original carpet with the gray shrink edging next to the new bound edged carpet; they are EXCATLY cut from the same piece of carpet but pictures and available light make them look different colors. Each photo here is a slightly different color but the darker-looking ones are correct. It's a pretty close match for the red of the fenders / body: A little 'dress rehearsal' in place in the cabin. I'm pleased because it's more in scale and hardly noticeable, which is very much like 1:1. It's just a subtle neat edge and I'm pretty relieved it bugged me enough to change: Finally-Taking a seat... ...and carving it up! Rather than scratch build the front seats I found it expedient to buy MMC's beautiful resin seats for the Benz Roadsters. The resin and casting is very good quality and has a great pleat pattern to go with my scratch built rear bench seat. But the narrowness of the Rolls cabin dictated some surgery (I now hate that word) to the Benz seats for a fit. Wear a mask when cutting and sanding this resin!! Being excited about returning to the bench for short whiles, I again forgot to photo a 'before' snap of the seats. In the Benz, the passenger portion of the seat is wider than the driver side. To make them equal, two pleats had to come out of the wide side. The driver side has five pleats, the passenger, seven. Also seen here is the Pocher supplied seat shell for the Rolls. My plan is to hack that and use the upper (back) portion of the shell with the Benz seat back within. It will be hinged to tilt forward with Benz brackets made by MMC and chromed. The white triangle is the template for the shape of the side of the shell when the base is cut away: Now the seats are the same width but slightly wider than the Rolls shell. That will require a bit of trimming and reshaping of the side bolsters. The base of the shell will be removed: The resin seats are cast with a dip in the center which required the pleats be removed from each side or they would be misshapen: The cut-down seat needs some trimming of the sides for a perfect fit: A mock-up in the cabin shows why the need for the cuts. The bolsters and edges will be trimmed and shaped so this is just a temporary look. All I could manage today: Getting nuts - again... Not liking the bolt-upright appearance of the stock Pocher Rolls front seats, i dreamed up this wacky combination of parts and hacks. Benz resin seats into a cut-down Rolls seat shell to make a pivoting 'bucket-style' pair of fronts. How bad could it be right? Here's some before and after; the Pocher complete seat shell. Note that the sides are double thick (to support the junk stock vinyl 'upholstery') and the back has mounting pins also for the vinyl: After butchering this brittle brown plastic, here's the core of what I wanted. Note the insides cleaned and thinned so as to allow as much of the resin seat to fit (also with a bit of trimming). This involved files, 60 grit, a Dremel on high with sanding drum, blacksmith tools and a huge mess: A rough idea of where this is going. Note the seat shell back may need to be shortened a bit. Also the white resin bits need to be thinned a bit, have the back angled and the side bolsters narrowed by about 3mm per side. I'm making this up as I go (as you can tell) because there's no way to draw this up for proof of idea. If I'm all wrong, I'll have ruined a $50 pair of seats, destroyed the Pocher bits and wasted about two lightyears. Nothing new for me however... A dangerous habit now... Somebody take these sharp tools away from me. Once again I went back to something done a year ago, determined to 'improve' it. After completing the rear bench seat (sofa in a Sedanca) I knew I was fortunate because I'd never done big-time leather before and this came out acceptably. Home safe and dry. But immediately I realized I didn't do a center arm rest, something all the 'Advanced Guys' built into theirs. Sad but I felt it was over my skill level. So what do I do today? Take a brand new number 11 scalpel blade and slice the center pleat out of my prized furniture. Actually, I made a balsa arm rest first, leathered and piped it and THEN went berserk: Fresh off the bandsaw... 14mm cut off the shells, seats notched, sanded and sliced. A LOT of dust. But very close to the look and ambiance I'm after. Want the same 'lived in' look as the rear sofa: In the cockpit; the major apparent thing is that the seats need a pedestal or base to raise them. In the Benz they came from there is a base. The steering column and cowl at the windshield make this evident. Being a 'make-up-as-I-go' project that's OK. You can't learn anything until the bits are made to play with each other and mocked in place. That wood block is just to prop the seat in position - nothing glued. Indeed, I may have to thin the backrest cushion to 'sink' it a bit into the shell. All trial and error. The good thing is I can always add styrene to build up any over -cutting. The pivoting brackets will work well with this look: A tip for madmen... ...like me. From the 'Crude but Effective' file. 'Skiving' is the process of thinning leather by scraping the back of the skin to thin it. Thin leather is desirable on our 1/8 scale models because it can be stretched better to go around edges and corners or fit into 1mm grooves between pleats. There are plenty of tools sold on leather working sites for this. But this is right at hand. Take a sanding block with 40 or 60 grit on it and scrape the back of the leather in one direction, holding the other end firmly. It takes patience and makes a fine powdery mess but I keep the DustBuster at hand for that. Here, the lighter area on the right side has been scraped: A very sharp knife blade can be used with or in place of the 40 grit. But I like the sanding because it's controllable; you don't gouge or cut through the leather. Here is the edge with the sanded part at the right; it's paper thin. Actually removed about .008" of thickness. That will help when two adjoining areas of applied leather meet. I have some of that coming up on the seat cushions. Admittedly, not for everyone but it works if you like really thin, workable leather: Final position... After much research, trial and error, here is the seat location. The mock-up needed the dashboard clamped in place and steering wheel in position. A balsa shim base for the seat has been finalized at .290" to get good height. The final will be made from styrene and covered with either leather or carpet. I'm now satisfied with the relationship of wheel / dash / seat. These are very close to the prototypes of the day where the driver had the wheel in his chest and his shoulders well above the seat back. The seat squab was very short with poor support under the knees but adequate clearance for legs under the wheel and away from the levers. Seat back height about at the top of the door line: Here is a beautiful restoration of a Gurney Nutting P II Drophead Coupe showing these relationships and generally cramped conditions in the short wheelbase cabin. I got as close as possible given the Pocher architecture. I'm working on making mounts that allow the seats to be removed easily yet fix firmly and will soon start shaping the resin cushions: About thickness of leather and parts- I allowed 3mm per side between seat shell back and cushions. Also why I chose the skiving technique I will use to get paper thin leather. Messy and time consuming but better in the end. Debating covering the shell with leather side , suede side or possibly carpet. Will trim edges so as to avoid lumps and overlap. It worked... Here's how. First, all the parts were 'kitted'. Styrene; 1/8 x 1/4 base sides, .040 base top (actually a shim to get the desired .290 height), 1/16 ID tubing. 1/8 tube bases with .015 shim to clear carpet height. Brass; 1/16 OD rod. CA and Plastruct cement. The once-glorious first carpet now sacrificed for test duty. It served a good purpose. The principle; make a 'plug in' seat by attaching tubes to floor pan styrene and brass 'prongs' to seat base. Side base onto floor FROM THE SIDE, using the nap of the carpet to provide enough friction to hold the base securely when in place but allow easy removal: It is critical to get accurate measurements for where you want the seat to be located and repeatable measurements for each component which you're making four of each of. The tubes attached to the brass prongs act as stops so the seat arrives at the correct side-to-side location every time. They also stiffen and secure the brass rods to the base frame: How it looks in place before the top is attached to the base. Base rests neatly on carpet. The current finished carpet will be cut more neatly and closer to the tubes. Again, I'm going to cut a perfectly good finished part after the fact. Not good and my luck will run out at some point. The arrows on base point forward (toward dash) but seat installs from side. This allows easy installation or removal after doors on and also because there's not enough forward or aft clearance in the cabin. Should repairs ever be needed, the whole cabin including floor can be unbolted at any time. No ripping seat glued to carpet or turning entire model upside down to access screws or bolts: Seat cushion on base and snug on carpet. The base will be covered with carpet material, the cushion gray leather. Still to come, attaching seat back cushion and shell with pivot to tip forward. All edges of base and cushions will be rounded off before covering. Now the only trick is to make an exact duplicate for the passenger seat and get it in the correct spot. I'm sure NONE of you are rushing to get these dimensions and techniques down for your Pochers; waaay to much work and fiddly stuff. But if it spawns an idea you can use on any scale you're building, I'm pleased: Removing resin, adding carpet and kid skin... From the previous post you can clearly see the hard-edged stock shape of the Benz seat cushion. That wouldn't do in my 'lived-in' Roller. So some reshaping was in order. But first the seat bases got a nice cover with carpet and binding: Now the dirty business of shaping. Befores and afters evident: At home in the cabin. Fronts seats now equal to rear bench in comfy style. Leather being added and hair removed from scalp as you read this...
  9. Looks really good. And to echo the others.. 2 weeks !
  10. Detailjunkie, The styrene was not the best choice to make the additional oil line. It’s to hard to work with for those small little parts. I will use metal on the other side of the block, hope it’s easier.
  11. Hi all well i wanted to add the throttle linkages and cold starting system but comparing the engine at work with this one, I got to thinking it's nothing like the real thing so I took it into work and asked our engineers and none of them have seen tinware on a 356 Porsche like the one depicted in this kit (baring in mind they only restore classic porsche here) so I cut all the excess tinware off. Here is what's in the kit. Heres a pic of the engine out of the 356 C Cabriolet So after I cut off the excess tinware I ended up with this I also wanted to add the low and high tension leads to the coil but when i tried there was no room under it to add them so I thought I will just move it up but then i thought it may have knock on problems later on so I measured it and it should be 8.75 mm the kit supplied one is 10.5mm so it's too long, after the last few revell kits (which I raved about how good they were I'm very disappointed in this one) I also added the leads from the dynamo. Loads more details could be added to this kit (I dont havevthe skills so I wont be) the 2 stumps either side of the engine with the 2 holes in the top are supposed to be the inlet manifolds and carbs (I may try to make some rudimentary ones but since when in the car they wont be seen at all who knows.
  12. Known in the trade as 'The Grasshopper'.... Looks mighty fine Ian and looking forwards to more structure and colour tomorrow. Good luck!
  13. Well Brian, you and I are definitely on the same page. I’ll let you know how my metal work goes when I get there.
  14. I don't make many, but I agree on this one! Cheers Tony, welcome aboard! Today was a few steps forward and a few back, but progress was made overall. I finally got around to resoldering the headlamp/front mudguard mounts and am now happy with what I have. I'll be happier still if they fit properly..... Couldn't resist this shot.... I think it all fits ok, but I'll really only know for sure once the wheels are fitted. I'll hold off fitting the brackets until then so it should be easier to make any necessary adjustments. After that, I started looking at getting everything ready for painting and decided to fit the rear mudguards so I could fill any gaps around the brackets before painting. That all went well and looks good, but it highlighted a problem at the rear end. It wasn't square, and the wheel on one side was further outboard than on the other, so I removed the differential and straightened the chassis rails and springs, which appeared to be slightly warped. That will also give me a chance to paint the diff white as per reference pics so all is not lost. With the diff removed, the springs are now equal with my little spacer removed, so I'll make sure that when the diff is refitted, everything stays square. The rear mudguards appear square and even, I've tweaked them a little as the front edge was very slightly lower on one side. The headlights and spotlight have been drilled for the new mounts and prepared for paint. Tomorrow I will add the stone deflectors to the rear mountings on the front mudguards and then I'll be ready to get that second white coat on! (That doesn't sound quite right!) Thanks for looking in! Ian
  15. Turning a corner... Continuous work has finally got the doors sized and mounted. easier written than done. Numerous sessions with hinge placement (doors on and off) and heating the warps was tedious. There are so many compounds to the body curvature that the door must conform to it you want a smooth paint reflection. I got it better than OOB but probably not as perfect as I want it. With doors in their final place, I finalized a paper template of the maroon portion of the sweep with a beltline. The idea is a smooth flow of lines front to rear and blend into the trunk lines. So the trunk does not look like an afterthought. From this I will make a .010 styrene template with sharp edges and from that the actual cladding that will get fastened to the body. The cladding will be .020 thick, the raised beltline will be .030 atop that and the center line seen here will be .080 wide half-round. I may tweek or remove the arrow point on the front and possibly slightly adjust the bottom edge of the roof line. I'm relieved the design is finalized but anxious about getting a perfect, flat fit to the body. Stay tuned... No more paper templates... Color sweep cladding now permanent on this side. Other side, cowl and rear panel tomorrow. Yellow just tacked on for viewing. A question about color-sanding arose and this is my method: When color sanding, I sand in a sink or large pan with a dollop of dish soap and warmish water - always wet. With the part and paper under the water. I stop very frequently and check. Tape or avoid sharp edges; you can use paste polishing compound on those safely. And I work under very direct, bright light. Just a word... Since mounting the cladding above, I've been steadily working to perfect the flow of all the joins and smooth all the surfaces. Because the areas and parts are so big, the slightest misalignment shows very clearly. I'm making good progress and am almost ready to mount the beltline. Coming together... With the look finalized, here is the first complete side with sweep and beltline. This cleans up the Pocher dip and hopefully adds to the swept-back look of speed. Some tips for those working in large scale: The belt consists of .030 strip cut 6.5mm wide at the door front to 3mm wide at the back edge. Atop that is .080 half round as a center accent strip. When attaching I used one full-length strip of 3M striping tape for a guide to get perfectly straight. Then using a tiny DROP of Gel CA at the front and rear edge of each strip, place in proper location. Double check for arrow-straightness. If misalignment is detected, it's very easy to slide a scalpel between the parts to break the bond, correct the alignment and reapply CA Gel. Then wick VERY THIN plastic weld cement to the top and bottom edges, pressing as you go. DO NOT SMEAR CEMENT on finished face. The .080 is applied the same way. I heated the rear edge of both joined pieces on a candle to pre-curve it around the body rear corner.. Then tiny Gel drops to anchor the strip around the curve. With cement and Gel, less is more. When doing large body work, especially in the finish stages, it's often easiest to work with the large body on its side or back. To prevent scuffing on the work surface (I sand to 600 grit just before primer) I made these foam surfaces cut to rough body shape. They are the 24" square work mats sold at the home supply stores and are inexpensive. I cut them into sanding blocks too for various areas where I don't want a hard wooden sanding block: There's a slight depression of the panel beneath the belt. Doubtless due to much sanding before the cladding went on. The sanding was to remove the thick molded-on Pocher belt sweep. You can see a bit of light pink filler in that area. It is much less noticeable in person and not a factor from other viewing angles. With straightedge from the hinge aft it is less than 1mm. I do not want to refill on top and overwork the plastic. The fact is some things you must live with. The doors have a slight outward crown and getting door edges to match the body compound curves was also a major struggle. Took warping with heat and in places, vigorous sanding of mating edges. The Pocher molds were less than perfect compounded by 3 decades of warping. I think when the upper area is all maroon it will all harmonize. A REALLY important tip... This applies to Pocher Rolls' but other Pochers would benefit from the principle. Even smaller 'big scale' builds too. You can't see both sides at once but for the truly anal (who me?) you will get a model that stands the highest scrutiny. Plus it's something that makes viewers feel it's an accurate replica but they don't know why. It's taken for granted that cars sit even and level. Throughout all the mock-ups and test fits over time, one thing has consistently bothered me. The tire to fender gap in the rear has never been even side-to-side. I checked warps, mounting locations and dozens of other parameters. The solution came to me today. And it's simple as pie for anyone to check and correct. First mount the wheels in place and place model on a relatively level surface. I added 2, 1 pound weights for checking purposes to settle everything where it will be when bolted together and the full interior and body are on. A simple pointer (pointed bamboo skewer) clamped in an 'extra hands' soldering jig makes an excellent reference jig. Pick a location on the chassis and just touch the pointer to the surface. Repeat on the other side and note any difference. I then fabricated 2, 1/8 x 1/4 styrene beams and placed them between the axle top and a bracket on the chassis. I kept adjusting the length of the spacer until the low side matched the 'correct' side. EACH SPACER WILL BE A DIFFERENT LENGTH. I made a circular notch in the spacer to go around the the tubular location on the axle and made the flat top fit snugly into the chassis bracket. When all checks and adjustments were done and both sides equal, a coat of flat black and two dabs of Gel CA completed the installation. But not before full-dress with rear fenders on and comparing each tire gap. The reason for the disparity on the Rolls is the complex brake bracketry which locates the axle to the chassis by small screws and uneven friction at each joint. CA on those joins would not last under the model's weight. One side will flex more than another. Having a now-invisible prop of the proper dimension assures that a very visible area of the car looks correct. Seen in the last shot in near-full dress, all the proportions and lines are evident. I darkened the roof filler to make viewing a bit easier. I may, when I get to the 'fine-tuning' stage, remove the .062 shim in the front springs to get that fender back closer to the tires. For now, a full 'undressing' and perfecting all the panels for primer. No exciting stuff... Don't have any 'glamorous' stuff to show but work has gone on. With the car in the state of the last picture, I've been trying to engineer the boring stuff; the fasteners that join major assemblies together. The car has so many changes from Pocher 'stock', that simple Pocher screws don't work or locations are in different places than where originally designed. The fenders are rotated and the trunk has new inner structure, needed when it was all cut up. Can't just drill a hole somewhere without knowing what you're going into. In particular, the rear fenders have to be screwed to the trunk (they already are to the main body) or the chassis to pin them flush to the panels. The trunk has to attach solidly to the back of the main body and chassis too. And the body lower front fastener bolts will be in a new location since the body was moved rearward 5mm. Of course, this all has to be removable for final finish. So I'm noodling around with brackets and trying to find locations for studs or bolts. Not fun, exciting work. I AM about to lay-out and fabricate the brass side window frames so they fit the door's new contours. At the same time, the internal door latch and handle mechanism needs figuring too. I have Marvin's beautiful outer door handles and they go in nothing like the Pocher parts. Everything takes figuring and testing from here on out. Sometimes I really miss the simple assembly of parts like chassis and engine where you get visible results and a little gratification very quickly. Lucky sometimes... As described, a bunch of planning and test fits have been going on before the next big project; soldering up window frames and door assembling. In particular, I needed to get the trunk and rear fenders fastened solidly to the main structure. I kind of hit a wall with this boring stuff so I began disassembling the last mock-up to begin the door work. And then, an idea simply presented itself. Having made several types of brackets and looked at 3 types of screws / bolts, I had no satisfactory way to secure the trunk. But the simple answer was, the same way I secured the rear of the floorboard. Using 2mm threaded rod, I had drilled and tapped the chassis and made a 'stud', then drilled the floor in the exact location (fun) and retained with a nut. I've had the floor / body unit on and off literally countless times and the system has been bulletproof. So using some soft putty placed on the chassis in the approximate area, I placed the trunk in position and compressed the putty. This gave me the height of the spacer block I'd need. After measuring, 1/8 x 1/4 styrene rod was cut to 15mm long and checked for fit between chassis and trunk bottom. Much careful measuring of the distances from the rear of the body and in from the trunk side followed. This determined where the block should sit on the chassis and where holes should be drilled in it and the trunk floor. All this was necessary because the trunk has been severely altered from stock. Seen in other pictures, the details atop the gas tank had to be removed in order for the trunk to sit square in the chassis. No matter, as they are unseen even in a stock build. The chassis paint was scuffed in the area, the block also. A bit of German gray will make this all disappear later. A .062 hole was drilled off center in the block and matching place on the chassis. A peg of styrene rod was inserted to make a small locating peg which (along with the 2mm stud) would prevent the block from ever moving. A drop of gel CA and then the #49 hole was drilled and tapped for the 2mm threads. Then CA on the threads as they sank down to the bottom of the chassis channel. Trunk holes were located and drilled slightly oversize. A washer will be under the nut upon final assembly. I lucked-out with a perfect, secure fit. Once again the value of stout (compared to Pocher screws) removable 2mm fasteners are highly recommended to Pocher builders. I can now make simple 2mm bolts, (a nut CA'd to a length of threaded rod) to secure each fender to the trunk body. Just a lot of tricky measuring and a tapped block inside needed. I may not have to attach the trunk to the body because 4 studs already hold the floor unit to the chassis. Actually easier to do than write about. Overcoming a stumbling block always gives you much enthusiasm to move ahead... Another tip... This is primarily for Rolls builders but may work on other hard-roof cars like Alfa Coupe and Bugatti. I needed to work the bottom of the chassis but with the body attached. I've made body mount brackets (will show soon) which bolt to the bottom rails and connect to the new, lower body edge. First attach the body / floor unit to the chassis. I have 2mm studs through the rear floor and 0-80 bolts through the front floor. If you have workstands, remove the rear one and carefully invert the whole car. Rest the roof on a pad and you're done. Solid and safe to measure and attach parts. No front fender though because of the front stand. I knew there was a good reason I whacked the windshield down. Almost as good as a rotisserie. Important but not exciting... I have been working every day since the last update so here is the important result. The body and floor mate as a unit and the whole assembly mates to the chassis - in a solid and repeatable way. You've seen many prior pictures of the car mocked-up this way but there is a difference now. Many hours of measuring and test fitting improved it all. I went back and made stronger, more accurate locations for all mounting points. I added two new ones (total of 6), and a pair of chassis brackets which now secure the lower front of the body. I made improved 'clamps' to securely hold the floor unit to the body lower flanges. The trunk aligns with the body perfectly. No Pocher screws anywhere; all fasteners are by 6, 2mm studs, tapped and epoxied in place with nuts. The lower front of the body uses 0-80 bolts with nuts through a brass bracket. I will post all the 'fill-in' shots of these parts and assemblies soon. But here is the result. For the first time, the unit sits flush on the chassis and firewall with no bind, twist or warp; it just glides right onto the locating studs and the bolt holes align. A 'tee' pin is seen in the lower front where the bolt goes through the bracket. They fit perfectly with all the other locators in place, a very rewarding feeling. This is what lets you install and remove body work for finish and interior and have it all go back precisely and unseen when carpet and seats are installed: It's dramatic even to me to see the actual lowness of the firewall (.250 lower) plus the body cowl sitting flush on it (body almost .375 lower). Here's an early mock-up; the firewall top is level to the grille shell (too high) and the body cowl is higher still, not even touching the firewall. Now the body cowl is level to the grille shell. This test fit finally confirms I got what I was after, making all the slicing and dicing work worthwhile. A brief word... Work has been on-going, just no 'pretty picture, show / tell stuff'. I've resisted the temptation to shoot primer and get that pretty look because of all the handling done and yet to be done. Having finalized the body, trunk and door positions, I have turned attention to the hood tops and getting a perfect fit between grille and cowl. I have gotten that straight, level hood I wanted. Took warps out of the front edge of left panel. The key was bolting the hinge halves to the panels instead of melting the pegs in place. This allows perfecting each half panel for fit. And later, painting without masking the chromed brass hinge. So far so good only to find a huge problem with the Pocher hinge; it warps upward at each end. The wire they used looks like a banana removed from the hoops. I have come up with a solution but it's tricky to execute. Will show and tell all soon. To further confuse you... A situation has occurred which caused me to divert from the above hinge / hood project briefly. To a really exciting addition of the model. Always planning ahead all the phases of construction, for some time, I had planned to make chromed brass strips for the running boards. Foil or paint on the molded strips just was not acceptable to me. But the learning curve to make them is a steep one at my skill level. So on a hunch, I contacted David Cox for advice about his advanced building techniques. Virtually all of his models feature chromed brass frames and strips in their decor. After some conversation, David offered to custom make strips to my design. I went ahead and purchased them and could not be more pleased. This saved me a hard learning project and much time. So I stopped the hood work to install them. I did this as a priority so I could return them to David for chroming as he had many bits of his own to be plated so mine could go along. I included my brass windshield frame, completed months ago. When I received them, they were also jewel-like in their craftsmanship, just as Marvin's parts are. David was Marvin's partner for some 15 years and together they built over 70 Pochers. Now David just builds for his own customers and his work on extreme and 'stock' Pochers can be seen here: http://www.detailedmodelcars.com/ In preparation for the strips, I had to sand the molded strips off the boards and then decided to make a drilling template. Seen in the first shot, the template made of .020 was sized exactly to the board. The strips are attached to the boards by 'pegs' which are inserted into holes drilled in the board. The strips are drilled in 2 or 3 places, the pegs inserted then soldered on top. The solder works down the threads to the back. The excess solder is then filed away, the parts polished and are then complete. Those pegs are actually 1mm bolts (he sometimes uses wire) which he gets precisely in even-spaced locations using dividers. This is closely related to watch-making, not model building. After preparing the boards and templates, I transferred the peg locations to the styrene and drilled .041 holes. I then placed the templates on the boards and drilled in those locations. The result is stunning and as real as you can get for a Pocher. I am much in debt to David and suggest you contact him through his site if you desire similar custom built parts - or even a whole model: Forgot... This is how the strips came from Dave Cox. And today, the running boards got their color. Tomorrow the clear: Return to work... After a vicious 10 day bout with what was probably influenza, it's good to be able to accomplish something. Although I had begun the hood just before illness, I was interrupted by the running board strips. Now that the 'boards are done and the strips are out for chrome, I've ordered some brass to correct the hood hinge. While waiting for that, I decided the doors should be finalized. To do that, I need the side window brass frames. The latch mechanism will go under them within the doors. So some time drawing up for templates and making them from .050 was done today. Then, cutting the channel legs on the bandsaw and sanding the mating angles on the disc sander. The front edge is not 90 degrees because it follows the angle of the windscreen. The back edge is 90 but I found it safer and easier to sand the angles of each adjoining leg to mate better than sanding 90's. Got the windwings done today, tomorrow the partially lowered side door glass. Soon a big time soldering session: Here's where we're going... Today, the biggest accomplishment was figuring-out a system. And I did; shown is the miter cut 3/32 square channel for the window frames. Jigged, pinned and silver soldered cleanly. The problem being to solder the corners cleanly and keep silver solder out of the inner channel corners. BY FAR the key to this operation is to keep the channel corners clear so your glass fits. After a lot of experimenting the answer was baking pan ally, folded, cut and bent to fit comfortably into the corners. Silver solder won't stick to it. Worked a charm; no glop inside the corners which the last shot attempts to show. Note the lower blocker has the rear edge cut to match the slope of the rear of the glass; you want no gaps inside or you'll get solder. With just a little file and 220 work the corners are crisp and clean. And the original plastic template fits perfectly as shown. Plenty still to solder and dress but much relieved I've got a reliable system. It took me days to clear the channels in the 'screen frame using folded tin foil (boo) but this took 3 minutes to join and 5 to finish dress the corners.. The sooner I finish the sooner off for chrome; I'm excited to see the 'screen frame and running board strips come home soon. I'm also planning a chrome accessory which will be another soldering adventure... The pros may do this with far less effort and different ways but there are other ways to skin the cat. I'm satisfied the result will be hard to tell from a pro's work. YOU CAN DO THIS; if I can, you can. The look of chromed windwings and partially lowered side glass adds a natural and elegant touch to any Rolls and some of the other Pocher Classics. And better men than I can actually make these things pivot out and lower but my train stops here. I'm OK with that... Arrrgh... I've taken many steps back and none forward over the last several days. Remember the trunk lid? A few compound curve seams were showing. Well couldn't live with it. I was going to make a trunk rack to 'disguise' the flaws, which is a lame thing to do. Not my style to cut a corner that badly. So plenty of Bondo, paper and time and I got it as perfect as it can be. NOW I can live with it. AND I'm going to make a trunk rack too, a marvelous chrome detail if I get it right: And then... .A heartbreak caused me to go the whole nine yards with the window frames. With all the door mock-ups, a 90 degree corner split open on me. I doubled down - remade each leg of both quarter lights from new; no repair botch. Started with a new plastic template - more accurate than the old. Made a new 'solder block' (for the inside corners) to match the template perfectly. Today I carefully cut and mitered (perfect fits) them all and drilled their plate holes. I discovered the two old ones didn't match each other exactly which is why I went back to square one. REALLY aggravated myself because I THINK I take care when I make things but see some things are slipping by me. At least I won't have to look at errors each time I look at it after completion. Also stopped horsing around and ordered a new Weller 40 watt solder iron; realized my 30 year-old Craftsman is down to the nub. Trying to do jewelry with blacksmith tools. There are lessons to be learned as you go along. Small progress... Crawling back... As mentioned a few posts ago some of the chrome plated parts have returned and really cheered me up. So here's a brief look. I'm planning to actually DO something tomorrow; I'll polish the clear paint on a running board then permanently mount the chrome strips. Tasty. A side note; I know you're probably tired of seeing the major bodywork in black and white raw plastic. I've been encouraged to prime everything 'cause it's cool to see a WIP project at least all one color. But I have firmly been a believer of getting the surfaces near perfect raw, then priming and fine skim coats as needed. I have to handle these big parts way too much which leads to corrupted primer anyway. So the w'shield frame doesn't stand out now as much as it will when the surround is dark maroon with no gaps. But that WILL happen. Pardon the mediocre pictures; small chrome parts are hard to show and I'm not up to my old standards just yet. These actually look way better in person than the pictures; a little shimming under the center will eliminate the small gaps. I'm proud of the curved, kerfed corners with nearly no imperfections- my first such attempt. Then, the secret is to polish the brass until it's flawless, then start all over again. Honest. More chrome... As promised the running board. Polished to 12,000 then strips fitted. Being hand-made items, they have minute differences in the spacing of the 00-90 mounting pins so fitting them where I drilled the holes originally requires care. But with no stress on them they seat nicely in place. Here's the result. Again sorry for the poor pictures but I'm satisfied that in place between the fenders they will be an outstanding accent. As of now the main parts with color on them are all fenders, the trunk and these boards. The large fender and trunk parts require polishing because they get stored and handled for test fittings so I leave the polish on those until final assembly. And a final thanks and recommendation to Dave Cox for fabricating these jewels. Some parts such as these are just not available from Marvin or anywhere else. I urge any of you building Pochers to contact him for custom parts you can't make yourself. They can transform your model: The credit for this beautiful detail goes to D.Cox; I just slightly changed the design of the molded-on strips. I made the inner one longer than Pocher had it. I will say that sanding-off the molded ribs was quite a chore; that stuff was hard plastic. Then the inevitable many grits of paper to get a flat, not gouged surface. You don't want them to 'ghost' through finished paint. Just could not bear foil on the stock parts; I'm a lousy foiler and would have carved up the finish paint. Hat's off to those of you that turn out beautiful foil jobs. I'm hooked on the whole brass / chrome thing. It remains to figure the side window frames mounting then make a luggage rack and rear glass frame. Oh and I forgot - the entire latch mechanism and door fit looms as well. I now have so many subassemblies such as this, rear seat, the fenders, dashboard, trunk and others, all stored in microfiber cloths and safe in boxes. However, every day I have to look at this 'turtle' in black and white plastic and Bondo, to which they all attach (someday).
  16. I just saw your posts this morning and I will have to go back and look at my notes from when I used to post the pictures directly from Postimage to the thread. Currently, I only use Postimage to resize my pictures to the thumbnail size required by britmodeller. I have a blog setup for linking my pictures from and then to the thread. This insures that if something happens to the picture hosting site or, as in what happened a couple years ago with photo bucket happens again, none of my pictures would disappear from the thread. This is what happened to Codgers RR thread. I’m off today so, I’ll look at it and see if I can get you some information. Also, know that there’s a number of hosting sites and more than one way to do it; this will just be my way. As far as pc vs iPad I don’t see why you can’t use it. You are not actually posting any pictures from your iPad or computer to the thread. This is why you have to use a hosting website or a blog which, becomes a defacto host. Britmodeller does not allow pictures to be directly posted from anyone’s personal device due to the risk of malware getting into the forum and taking down everything. So that’s why when you post you copy the URL link to your picture and then post it. Your picture really shows up as a link to it from the website hosting it thus protecting the forum from malware. Sorry for the long winded explanation. Anyway, I’ll look into the easiest way for you to attach your pictures and let you know.
  17. Wayne, You are going to think that I am stalking your, but I’m not. I left you a message on your Mercedes build about helping with the directions to load pictures. Codger gave me assistance, but the breakdown occurred when trying to send them to this site. If you have a moment can you please share your instructions to load pics from Postimage to this site. Thanking you in advance. Brian
  18. Wayne, Your Mercedes build has been very helpful, I added all the building tips to my Sedanca journal. SECONDLY...As you May have gathered I am having issues with making POSTIAGE download/upload my Sedanca pics. I can load the pictures to the site, but can not get them into Britmodeller. I have a new IPad, do you know if I can use it to this task. I thought that I could use my computer but you wrote that I can’t use it (computer). Is it at all possible for you to write the steps you use so I can make it happen. Codger sent me instructions that help me get to the site, etc. I thank you in advance if you have the time to help. Brian
  19. Codger, I will get assistance to help upload my pictures this weekend. Very frustrating not being able to share my pics. I removed the generator so I could the extra oil lines on both side of the block. Like you I have decided to add as much of the extra ‘plumbing’ that the JRH dvd that indicates how to construct these extras. I will build them with styrene, not metal as I am not clear how to work with it. You and Wayne are my inspiration.
  20. Wayne, Thank you for this most valuable information, it will be added to Sedanca build journal. You are a treasure trove of helpful information. Brian
  21. I read this week that the actual Mustang that Steve McQueen drove in the movie was recently sold for 3.4 million dollars!
  22. Hello all, This is the sister build to my Dodge Charger for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build in the shape of the Ford Mustang GT Fastback belonging to the hero of the film Bullitt: Cheers, Mark.
  23. Hello all, This is a recently completed build for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build, Revell's 1/25 Dodge Charge RT built as the baddie's car from one of my favourite movies Bullitt. It's also my first genuine attempt at scale auto paintwork. The wheels and hubs are a compromise solution (bodge) as the correct combination wasn't in the kit, the paint finish is achieved with Humbrol rattle can Gloss black with Tamiya rattle can clear coat. The white wall tyres were done by priming the tyre in white and masking off a ring and spraying the rest with Tamiya rubber black. The only thing I've added is the radio aerial. The chrome trim was an absolute killer but was done with a Molotow liquid chrome marker. WIP: Cheers, Mark.
  24. Kent Models have it available on Ebay for £118 + shipping. 3 available
  25. Hi Kirk, you're right. The caliper is not possible to meet directly the hub due to the disc diameter. This difference it was also with the original plastic pins. So...the caliper are just dry fitted and need some fine work to match and fit right. Before to fit definetively the caliper, I need to work on the caliper to add the bleeder valves and hose connection for the two half calipers Thanks much JCH....but you're doing a greater work on your Tamiya....i think you're Mclaren will be outstanding. I continued with some work I finished the carbon work on upper side of diffuseur zone. Now just remainig the final work of clear matt coating I started some little work on electrovalves of bypass circuit and for pressure/temperature of intercooler system. I would made a better job, but it was a sure broken if i tried to dismantle the valve from the bracket. So i made a little paint detail and i remade some joint. The Haynes book help me to understand the complicated bypass system I made some little details to the radiators: i remade the hose joint with a shrink and added a selfmade alu clamps I also little detailed the 3 main ecu: I cut the original plug and i added the top studio plug and some PE bolts on left radiator pod ecu.
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