Ever since I finished my last project, that 3D printed steam engine. I've been racking my brain trying to think of a model that appeals to me for another scratch build. It has been my own unwritten rule that I only ever build cars/boats/steam engines that are important to me or played a part in my past. I had the use of a Vincent Rapide back in 1955 here in Ontario Canada, when I was 17 and a family friend asked if I'd look after it for him for 2 months while he went back to Scotland ... does a bear sh*t in the woods?? At the time I had an AJS 600 twin and a Matchless scrambler but they quickly got pushed aside and I rode that Vincent everywhere. Now, almost 70 years on, I feel ready to tackle a bike model ... a scratch built one at that .. and a Vincent. The one I'm going to attempt is called Gunga Din and was the development machine used by the factory for many years and has, in modern times, been found, restored, tied for first place at Pebble Beach concours and now belongs to an important man in the motorcycle world here in Toronto Canada. What I'd give for an hour with the bike and a camera but as it stands I'm going to have to build it all from photographs. Those familiar with my models may know that I'm not a stickler for absolute precision and correctness so, as usual, I'll be taking liberties as and where I feel like it. Scratch building for me is mostly about 'the process' and figuring out 'how am I going to make this part?'. I've begun the project armed with only a 'pretty decent side view' of the bike which I've since converted to a line drawing and scaled it to my default size ... 9 inches (see above about liberties). http:// I've got off to a good start and have selected a lot of the 'low hanging fruit' to fabricate. As usual, my parts are made from my stash of scrap aluminum, steel and brass salvaged from old printers, cameras, computers etc. Gas tank, seat, oil tank and shock absorbers under way. http:// Half hour of filing and sanding ... Seat and Gas tank are shaped using Renshape which is a composite pattern making material. Here the oil tank, seat and shock absorbers are test fitted. http:// For those unfamiliar with the Vincent bikes they have no traditional frame in which the engine is bolted. Instead, a strong, steel box-like oil tank resides under the gas tank and the front and rear suspensions are bolted to that ... very much ahead of the times. I'll be moving on to the rear suspension members next so I'll leave you here. Back soon.
At one point we had my white Suzuki Swift, my son's white Citroen C1 and my wife's white Honda CRV on the drive and they may as well have been red, green and blue. We swapped my wife's white CRV for a white Landrover and next to it the Honda looked yellow!
Appears to be out and being distributed already according to some stockists, @Spiny. I take it that this is being flagged up as a better option for modelling a Cobra? I'm just picking away at various details as the mood takes. This is the rear end.... The decal registration plates are a wash-out. Looks like they are for a Japanese car or something. I made an ordinary blank plate. The front and rear badges were "OK" but didn't adhere well enough and I lost them both. So I'm doing paint versions. Also the boot handle is a soldiered brass wire substitute. Nothing really wrong with the kit part except it's SO small, and chromed. My wire job has a nice long location pin right through into the boot. Side pipes fitted, again with the help of enlarged attachment pins. Interior is gradually getting there.... I've managed to get one of the transparent sun-screens attached. (a WHAT....??) I think it needs to be tinted some how, but I want to get them on first and then think about it. I also have one of the wipers fabricated out of brass wire and 2 lengths of stretched black plastic sprue. The wire fits into the tube inserts and the wire arm is bendable enough to bring the wiper blade into contact with the windscreen. Then just a line of gloss acrylic varnish along the blade to fix it to the glass and no other glue anywhere near it. There's 2 tiny chromed bonnet latches to fit, and I have a feeling that they will be done in soldered brass wire. My reason is I can make them big for handling and glueing, and then trim them down after fitting. I don't think I'll get too involved in engine plug leads etc. I've kind of had my fun with this 'un and it's looking like a Shelby Cobra for my shelf. So I'll probably just coast to the finish line with a few more peripheral bits and bobs. Those 2 side window /deflectors are going to be emotionally challenging to fit....
Knowing you, I'm convinced you'll find a solution. Good luck.
If you want a a variety of whites, go to your local motor accessory shop and buy spray cans of real white paint for various makes eg, if you're doing a Mercedes, buy a Mercedes white, for Ford, a Ford white I once did a BMW car for someone. He wanted it in BMW Navy Blue. No model paint could match that so I bought a spray can of that colour in Halfords, one of our main car accessory dealers Just about all these car paints are acrylic with mild carriers so are pretty safe to use on plastic models
I sent answer. Sorry about delay.
Hello fellow modelers, I know this topic have been discussed in several topics, but I think it might make sense to create totally own thread for this. i have my own agenda of course in this, because I will have soon three projects coming to paint phase and I want avoid toy like look in these builds. So my Lancia S4 will be soon in paint phase and I hope get it painted well. For my own eyes white paint is often too clear and shiny compared what you see in real life. I hope we can collect here our experiences how we have managed to do this. I hope also that we can share experience different paint types enamels, acrylics, primers etc. For me in past preferred paint was enamel, but I have noticed that lately I have learn to use acrylics. I have generally easy access to Humbrol (I know current issues), MrHobby , Valejo and Tamiya paints and I prefer airbrush in most of time, just small details in other methods. So I started my own trials in Italeri Quattro kit, not too expensive and difficult to get if everything goes wrong. In first phase I used Tamiya grey primer and then I used Xtracolor white FS17875 very thin layers. Why I used this paint this is totally accident. It just was available. This combination is good for underneath of car and created semi mat look. This combination won't work for main body. I will add photo in this thread tomorrow. I think @Windy37, @galaxyg, @keefr22, @CrazyCrank and @Bengalensis have good ideas to share. Maybe also good idea to share is how to create period look painting. 20's, 50's, etc. Then of course we don't talk only white... Happy modelling and waiting your comments! Vesa
Spotted today on my way back to Lincolnshire from Kent. . A light blue and white Austin Cambridge (Pre-'63, judging by the plate), a Pageant Blue MG Midget on a trailer, an elderly Rolls-Royce (again pre-'63) which looked very nice indeed and, as a bonus when I drove past Duxford, the Catalina was doing some spirited circuits! Trevor PS I had a Sierra XR4x4 for many years. Loads of grunt, very reliable (apart from front discs!), and I covered over 140,000 miles with only breakdown. The only thing lacking was air conditioning.
That is Out... Stan... Ding Thierry ! Bet you are very please with the end result. Nick
Good evening Gentlemen Well, it seems this one is finished ! I've scratched the windscreen with 21/100 clear plastic sheet, cut off following my template, and gently glued with micro-droplets of CA, after I had curved it by hand in order its profile matches with the frame The mirror has been glued in place, no modification on this part. The part I 3D printed for the underside of the bonnet, has been placed, slightly trimmed to avoid it goes in conflict with the front of the air intake manifold, and so the bonnet closes correctly. Its shape does not fit perfectly around the air intake grille but I could not do better, for lack of more precise dimensions to extrapolate from reference photos Some rough photos taken in a hurry, waiting for a sexier photoshoot for the RFI section that I will do in the next few days See you soon for next adventure in modeling
At least in a convertible your carpet efforts will be on view. I spent several evenings trying to make good the splits in the seat decals of my 370z, which now it is only just possible to see that there are seats at all!
You're too kind with me. I'll try to go on deserving such compliments
I’ve said it before, but this can’t be said enough. You’ve built a fantastic model. Hat off for you.
Thank you so much for this huge compliment @Vesa Jussila PS: could you read your PMs ?
A good suggestion, and something I was planning on doing when measuring the real 3-door car.
I'm a bit late to the party here but can I make a suggestion before the conversion goes too far? I don't know about the Golf III but I can tell you that the Audi A3 (which shares a lot of parts and design with the Golf) produced both three and five-door variants and the wheelbases were significantly different. There was nearly 300mm difference which if repeated in the Golf would throw your measurements out significantly. Can I suggest you check the wheelbase measurements of both the three and five door variants and if different re-measure accordingly?
I finally had time to catch up this build. Looks excellent and this is real masterpiece.
Who's Online 62 Members, 2 Anonymous, 627 Guests (See full list)
- ian p
- Dave Swindell
- S-boat 55
- Dr Evil
- Rob K.
- Mark Proulx
- Massimo Tessitori
- Simon in Wales
- Bandsaw Steve
- Swamp Donkey
- Stephen Allen
- Stef N.