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Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, Maritime WWI to 1939, Maritime WWII, Maritime Cold War to 1990, Maritime Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. Colin Miller
    looks fantastic! well done on building this superb model!
  3. Iceman 29
    Hello Javlin, Some big mistakes in the Trumpeter kit Battlecruiser DKM Scharnhorst to avoid: https://www-laroyale--modelisme-net.translate.goog/t27110-croiseur-de-bataille-dkm-scharnhorst-trumpeter-1-200-de-dyphrologue?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=fr&_x_tr_pto=wapp
  4. Our Ned
    Another photo of Wellington in this scheme is on the IWM webvsite at https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205121648. The first two photos in the original post are versions of the same photo with different processing - https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205151088. A port bow view, taken at Moville in 1942, can be found in Arnold Hague Sloops 1926-1946 (Kendal: World Ship Society, 1993). In 1942 she did indeed carry a single 20mm Oerlikon in each bridge wing, as well as two quadruple 0.5" mountings; one on each side just abaft the break of the foc's'le.
  5. javlin
    I have to agree if Trumpter comes out with the 1/200 PE I am in probably be another $1K for me. Thanks Mick I usually get bored with long builds here I just jump to another station on secondary guns ATTM.
  6. Colin Miller
    I have built this kit, the inaccuracies and problems were a bit upsetting considering this kit sells for £800+. They do look good in the water but they are a handful to move about. You have a cracking model there!
  7. George Norman
    Cheers Stuart. Yep bit disappointing given the price of the kits tbf and all the bits I had to replace or make. After all that only sailed it twice and as you say it is pretty Wieldy to launch on your own especially. The local RC boating group died off as the Key chap got a stroke and was left with very poor vision. He helped all the other lads out withe their problems, coupled with access to the pond removed especially for the older chaps did not help either. I have a couple of very quick short Videos of it in action here. I forgot to wire in the smoke unit...
  8. Faraway
    Sorry Beefy, but I honestly can’t remember, and my WIP isn’t much use. This was from when I had just ‘found’ ship building, so my information was a bit lacking. Jon
  9. ShogunBallistic
    The two type VIIs got PE rigging, but I ripped it off, it just looked horrible. Now changed to normal rigging thread. Added a grey paint on the lines as well otherwise they just "disappear" against the background
  10. ArnoldAmbrose
    G'day again, this level of modeling is way out of my league, all that fine detail. Naturally it's your decision but I don't think I'd be able to paint the entire model after completion. I'd imagine the application and removal of all the masking would be a nightmare. Good luck with whatever you decide. Regards, Jeff.
  11. ArnoldAmbrose
    Gidday Beefy, that second photo is probably the best I have showing the overall look. I can take another from a lower angle if you like but this should give you a bit of an idea. I used Humbrol Hu31 for the antifouling colour. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  12. Yesterday
  13. mindenroses
    Many thanks for the responses!
  14. Rich75
    You could use masking tape to try to pick the rest of the worst away, not sure what to suggest at such a small scale really, you might be able to prime then. Not much help but for future ref I hear Mig one shot has good adhesion on resin... If its lifting you need to get back to the surface.
  15. Dmitriy1967
    I have always really liked Tashkent, the sophistication of its lines. No wonder, Italian design has always been one of the most elegant.
  16. Colin Miller
    Some colour being added to the superstructure has made it "come alive" the next part is the main mast hence its not been painted but slowly the build is rolling on...
  17. robgizlu
    Was thinking the very same - odd for a WW2 vessel Keep it coming Beefster Rob
  18. Tegethoff
    Thanks Jeff. Cleaning an airbrush with Acrylics is OK, although some airbrushes are definitely easier to clean than others (depending on shape of the inflow-nozzle area). With lacquers it is more difficult and involves stronger chemicals. They give nicer effects but I am not sure if it is worth the trade off in difficulty and toxicity. I find keeping airbrushes with a sharp point really difficult I clean them thoroughly but they never seem to go back to the sharp point. I usually make sub assemblies - see the 13 or so layers in the Fuso Pagoda - but this model is another level of complexity on top. For example around the Fore Funnel in the central column below part 261 (Pontos) - a walkway - links to Kit Part E36 around the funnel, but apparently needing the funnel to be installed for the final time first. So painting after installation of the Funnel is required but if the funnel is painted on the base it is likely that I will miss parts. But part E36 doesn't stay upright by itself for painting alone! This is one of many many things I am trying to work out what to do!
  19. Andy H
    Looks like you're off to a good start. 👍 Nice lines - the bridge reminds me of a WWII Soviet 'Shchuka' class submarine.
  20. Stuart Pittard
    Hi George, Wish I had read your building notes before buying the kit, mine was second hand off e-bay and was of 2006 vintage from the original Huddersfield makers. The moulding quality is rubbish, I had the same lopsided hull problem as you had. several hours with three spirt levels and I came to a compromise I lifted the port forecastle by about 8mm. I found the plans bare little resemblence to the hull. But what can you expect for half price. Anyway glad you persevered the boat looks very good on the water and I always go for a good working model and the 6foot rule. (if it looks right at a distance of 6 foot and sails in a realistic manor I more than happy) I built the St Nectern 5 years a go, it looks most realistic on the water but is a handful to transport and launch. All the best.
  21. Jeff.M
    John, What you sent was most helpful. Thanks again. Jeff
  22. beefy66
    Very precise work with those shafts Jeff. Stay Safe beefy
  23. JohnWS
    Hi Jeff, To add to what Alun described, I've messaged you an excerpt from an old copy of the Admiralty Manual of Seamanship. It includes a description of what would be typically fitted in the floats. No mention of bottles of rum, though. John
  24. phillip1
    bissyboat-Thanks! Phillip1 @bissyboat
  25. beefy66
    With the history of this ship being built by the Italians I was going for the green because of that Jeff but put the Belfast what if up if you like gives me an idea of what to aim for in my colour range or if I need to get some supplies in. I was also going to ask @Faraway Jon what colour did you use for the blue hull, the colour chart calls for a grey deck but I was thinking of doing the red brown linonium colour of modern Russian ships just for something different. What do you reckon. Stay Safe beefy
  26. ArnoldAmbrose
    G'day Beefy, this hasn't taken you long, and it looks quite a potent vessel. I did a whiffed 16-gun Belfast a couple of years ago with a greenish antifouling lower hull for a bit of variety in the display cabinet. I can post a picture of it here if you wish so you can see what the colour scheme will look like. But obviously no need if you've already tried it. Regards, Jeff.
  27. ArnoldAmbrose
    G'day, and thank you for your comments, guys. I've completed the shafts on DKM Karlsruhe. I re-inforced the joins of the struts with 5 minute Araldyte epoxy glue. As you can see, the rudder is done too, and I'll probably fit her next. I think the jobs after that will be to drill the scuttles in the hull, make and attach the anchors then start painting the hull. As some of you mentioned, the hull is very smooth now. Those black lines you see are due to news-print. When I glued in the strakes I wiped excess glue off with newspaper, leaving black ink marks. That is why the hull looked so 'dirty' before I commenced the fill/sanding cycles. No matter, they'll paint over later. I'll also make my own screws but I can do that job later too. So thank you for your interest, comments and responses. Stay safe and keep on modeling. Regards to all, Jeff.
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