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Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, Maritime WWI to 1939, Maritime WWII, Maritime Cold War to 1990, Maritime Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. Superb work! I love the rigging, and the nice camouflage too! If I may ask, what are the Revell colours that you used to paint the model? The paint colours look excellent!
  3. Railing stanchions on and I've added some thread between them. Mast next then the DC rails and finally, the rigging. Jon
  4. Thank you very much guys. Only if I can build it out of styrene. 😁 Which I have in mind some day. I'll leave the actual wooden model ships to the true artists. 🙂 Regards, Jeff.
  5. Great job CJ! Even with the challenges you ran into and experimentation on staining the laser cut wood decking, you should be very proud of your final result, she’s a beaut! Ships are hard, if you can paint/ build/ rig a 1/350 ship this well, you can build anything! Looking forward to seeing what you do with that Sovremenny destroyer and WEM photoetch is a joy to use IMO ( my favorite).
  6. Enjoying your WIP on this one so far, thank you for your efforts in these postings. Your PE workmanship is very nice/ clean. I am a few months into a build of Fujimi’s 1/350 Zuikaku carrier kit and agree that Fujimi’s engineering/ plastic part fit is quite nice so far. I am using Fujimi’s PE (A, B, C, D, E) sets and, while it look’s nice and seems to fit okay in most areas, it is quite fragile and easily breaks if you miss-bend anything (reminds me of Flyhawk PE). I’ve never used Pontos PE, how forgiving (ductile) is it for multiple bends? My favored ship PE is WEM/ Tom’s.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Built the Hull. It fitted like a dream. I used super glue just to "close" the last .1mm gap while I applied hand pressure. One frustrating thing is compared to the Fuso, the tabs connecting the hull halfs to the sprue aren't hidden. So quite a bit of sanding to a slight angle to make the deck flush -it isn't a 90 degree join - is needed. Here the assembled hull is vs Hood For once thinking ahead, I'm not particularly keen on the very pale wood of the Pontos deck so have been trying some stains: Left Tamiya black panel liner (orange from an Abteilung 502 mix of rust and ocher in lacquer thinner) centre is normal Pontos deck and right is actually three stains: middle Abteilung 502 ocher, bottom ocher and rust, top ocher and more rust. it looked horrid when applied but seems to have dried and doesn't look as terrible as I thought. I think I'm likely to just do the whole deck with one mix (panels always look too large on 1/350), but may play around more. Currently working on how to put all the PE on the funnels half way through one funnel and my patience ran out. Will try again tomorrow:
  9. A couple more shots of some detail and then a flyover video As mentioned I am modelling at that point of 'special sea duty men' closing up to enter harbour so I can model a couple of quirky details like the ceremonial name boards being hung. Another was the ships bell. With mast and all the signal deck equipment fitted. Still have to finish off the guard rails (plan on doing a big spray of all the stanchion and hard railed sections and get some fine black fish line to rig the others with. The 965 is on its way (I went with a 3d printed one as the photo etch scared me)
  10. Yes but Hoga is still alive: USS Hoga (YT-146) is best known for her actions during the attack on Pearl Harbor on 7 December 1941. http://aimmuseum.org/uss-hoga/ USS Hoga (YT-146) Class: Woban-class district harbour tug Builder : Consolidated Shipbuilding Corporation, Morris Heights, New York Keel laid : 25 July 1940 Launched : 31 December 1940 Commissioned : 22 May 1941 Decommissioned : 1 July 1996 Crew : 10 officers and enlisted men Displacement : 218 tonnes Length : 100 feet Beam : 25 feet Draft : 9 feet, 7 inches Propulsion : One propeller Two diesel engines Speed : 12 knots Getting underway less than 10 minutes after the first Japanese bombs exploded, she set to work rescuing sailors from the water, fighting fires and pulling ships out of harm's way. The Hoga moved the repair ship USS Vestal away from the burning hull of the USS Arizona, assisted the damaged minesweeper USS Oglala and the battleship USS Nevada. She fought fires on the Nevada as well as on the battleships USS Maryland, USS Tennessee and USS Arizona. In total, the Hoga spent 72 hours continuously fighting fires. The Hoga is best known for pushing the sinking USS Nevada to safety and preventing it from blocking the narrow channel. The Hoga is currently undergoing a major restoration to its Second World War configuration. It served as a fireboat for the Port of Oakland for four decades, even carrying President Carter on a visit to the Bay, before being decommissioned and transferred to North Little Rock AR.
  11. Plank on frame, you'll be building a wooden boat next. Stuart
  12. The WW2 type is kitted by Starling Models, a resin 1/350 kit or a Trafalgar Class by Airfix in 1/350. Stuart
  13. Tks Greg and followers. I use an Imac 27" ( 2017) with 64 giga RAM - SSD.
  14. I know I know I know I haven't finished doing the lashings on the small boats but this was far more exciting to do 15cm guns and turrets ... The scheme is yellow upper surfaces but I toned it down to a more green/yellow purely for artistic looks..
  15. G'day All, I've completed adding the rib frames to DKM Karlsruhe and I've added the first strake on each side of the hull. The first time I did this was for my Flower class corvette. That ship had a flat foc'sle deck plus a main deck with considerable sheer aft. So in that case I glued the first strake under the foc'sle deck, from the break in the foc'sle deck to the bow. This hull is the opposite, with a flat main deck. So I decided to fit the first strake under the main deck, starting at the stern and continuing it all the way to the bow. This strake is rather deep, 4mm, and is a pre-cut strip for precision. I started fitting it between the transom stern and the first rib frame, then as the glue dried I moved further along the hull. As I went I glued join-strengtheners of 1.5mm square-section styrene between the strake and the deck edge, between the rib frames. Probably a bit excessive but I thought it important to get this one right as a starting point. That's why this first strake was a pre-cut strip and not a strip I cut from a sheet, the cheaper way of doing it. The hull will be cladded by strakes 0.75mm thick. Thinner styrene is easier to work but due to the limited number of hull rib frames it has a tendency to become straight sections between frames, creating a sort of oil-canning effect. The thicker styrene seems to follow the hull curve better. And speaking of hull curve, I think the hull 'entry' is a bit fine and bow a bit too flared but this was due I think to my rib frames being of dubious accuracy and position, particularly those under the break in the foc'sle deck. I'm going to have to live with it I think. The remainder of the strakes will be cut from a sheet of styrene, will not run the full length of the ship and will be tapered a bit towards each end of the hull. They'll also be narrower than this first strake, to follow the curve around the hull better. Well, that's the plan anyway. So this is it for now. I hope this week-end is peaceful and meaningful for you, what ever your beliefs. Stay safe and regards to all, Jeff.
  16. To be honest, doing my pocket Rodney made my eyes aging for years... Well, using a smart phone by night gives it the rest! Seriously, since I'm in my early forties loosing eye-sight is just a law of nature. It's what my optician said. 🥲 If you change your mind and want to imagine how I built her, you can check out: ...looking forward to see your chef d'oeuvre finished!
  17. CJ, I completely agree with this statement. Fantastic for a second model. Thanks for sharing this. Rod
  18. WOW.... how cool! great looking piece, thanks for sharing. Rod
  19. G'day @Cavalcante, there is another possibility for you to consider. But first, have you a particular attachment to HMS Abelia? If so, then I understand you wanting any model of her you build to be accurate. A number I ships that I've modelled have appealed to me for a specific reason and hence I've gone to a bit of trouble in researching them for an accurate model. And most of these have been ships with only a few sister-ships. But many of the escort vessels, Flower class included were built in large numbers. And as @robgizlu has said above (and you've probably gathered for yourself anyway) there were a lot of variations in the Flower class corvettes. Many of them would have served in often appalling conditions with their crews enduring considerable hardship, all helping to win the war, with many never being given the opportunity to take part in a specific action that made it into the lime-light and the history books - they simply slogged it out unrecognized for as long as they were needed. The point I'm trying to make is this - If you don't have a particular attachment to HMS Abelia (or any other specific Flower class) why not make a generic ship of the class, either short- or long- foc'sle type? This will save you a lot of research into a particular vessel, and possibly some disappointment if you find later that you've made a mistake, such as wrong camo patterns, slightly different equipment fittings etc. The hulls and superstructures will be similar if not identical between ships, and any model you make will be immediately identifiable as a Flower class. I did this when I scratch-built a Flower class corvette in 1/600 scale about a year ago. There were no kits available in my preferred scale that I was aware of, hence the scratch build. Admittedly my model is rather basic but I enjoyed building all the same, and I've labelled her a long-focsle Flower class corvette. Something for you to consider. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  20. Hi Daniel Campanula was a near sister ship to HMS Mignonette that I'm close to completing in 1/350 - you may want to check it out in "Work in Progress" Rob
  21. Hello, I bought the recommended book (Shipcraft Special - Flower Class Corvettes - by John Lambert) and I'm going to study the differences. There are two models that use the same Snowberry base with some modifications, the HMS Buttercup and the HMS Campanula. I will research the differences and see if they are possible. Thank you all very much for your help! Daniel
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