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Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, WWI to 1939, WWII, Cold War to 1990, Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.
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Hi Jamie, Yes, I did have a look through the links, though upon deciding my choice, I accidentally omitted the part where I would lighten it slightly. How much was still being decided until your reply came through with your test shots that you did outside. I painted the hull yesterday based on the info that you have sent through. Choosing the Testors 4869 is a no brainer for me as I work for a company that distributes Testors paints. May have to purchase some of these Colourcoats to make life a bit easier next time.. Is it known when the Warspite got that camouflage scheme? What was the scheme she was wearing before the camouflage was applied? Also, did she remain in that two tone scheme for the remainder of the war? I wasn't entirely sure when I did the last one, but the dark grey was straight from the bottle, so that's too dark, the light grey from the bottle was too light (which was really only used for the masts & top of the superstructure), plus the wrong tone of reds for the anti fouling. I ended up using an aircraft blue/grey for the lighter grey on the camouflage. Then again, I'm pretty sure that the pattern is way wrong too. Multiple sources have it as wavy as opposed to a hard edge scheme. Good thing I've got another to build- it's all learning.. Hahaha!
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Thanks John, Thats a really useful link...I'm checking my piggybank now to see if I can afford it...!
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Iron barque - 25 feet to 1 inch - Scratchbuilt
ShipbuilderMN replied to ShipbuilderMN's topic in Ready for Inspection - Maritime
Hi Stuart, Thanks. Yes, I did an article on making seas, it is included in "Scratchbuilding Merchant Sailing Ships, A Dying Art! Details via my FB page. I have just announced "collection only" from now on, so that will severely restrict things. But at age 74, I guess it doesn't really matter all that much. I can still carry on building them, and when the space to store them has run out, I will just stop until some of them go. There are a few local collectors interested. In some ways, it comes as a relief, as I was always worried about them getting there safely, especially to the USA or Far East. I did a half-hearted build log on FB about the Gulf Stream build, but had a number of prospective buyers come up all the way through, trying to stake a claim to it, and that sort of thing makes me lose interest and I slow down. Collectors seldom pay any attention to my requests to refrain from trying to reserve models whilst they are being built, some even wanting to pay in full before they are even finished. So, I have decided to only display the completed models from now on. As I have said before, very few modellers have the slightest interest in building merchant ships, only collectors are keen on them. Bob -
ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control
Terry1954 replied to robgizlu's topic in Work in Progress - Maritime
Just picked up on this thread. What superb modelling! Terry -
Very, very nice lovely build
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Iron barque - 25 feet to 1 inch - Scratchbuilt
Courageous replied to ShipbuilderMN's topic in Ready for Inspection - Maritime
Hi Bob, I saw on your FB feed about the damaged incurred, really bad news for such lovely model. Unfortunately, this has had a knock on effect with your future builds which is both understandable and regrettable. Hopefully, we'll see the occasional build from yourself, and all the best with your writing. On a side note, did you ever write an article about how you do your sea bases? I have the article on making the case, very nice. All the best. Stuart -
Looking very nice. Stuart
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ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control
Courageous replied to robgizlu's topic in Work in Progress - Maritime
As they've all said, great progress. Keep up with the momentum Fairmile B 'cos their are so few of them and forget about the F-16...too many of them. Stuart -
The interior is very impressive!
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MASTER Masts for the RMS Titanic and Olympic. 1:350
bootneck replied to Shar2's topic in Aftermarket
I have been using Master Models aircraft aftermarket, such as their refuelling probes & pitot tubes, and find that they enhance my models considerably. This venture into ships masts should be welcomed by the maritime fraternity. I have the Revell RMS Titanic and the kit masts certainly need improving so I shall be ordering this set. Thanks for the heads up Dave. Mike - Last week
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Oh Captain My Captain..... Your effort is a journey in creative will that's most inspirational and impressive! I go to school with every post!
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Hi Graeme. Here's a link to a cutaway drawing of a CB90. Looking at the cutaway the interior of the bridge appears to be light grey or white. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/combat-boat-cb-90-h-fast-assault-craft.jpg Here's another link to a Swedish CB90 rescue boat that's for sale. It includes a number of interior photos. The interior of the bridge appears to be light grey, while the passenger compartment bulkheads appear to be white. https://shipsforsale.com/en/ships-en/shipid/765/arbetsfartyg_1_helga/ Hope these help. John
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Masts for the RMS Titanic and Olympic 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale accessory sets. They are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models, but be aware, these items are very sharp, and once fitted to the model could catch someone’s face/eyes if there look too closely. [350-100] This set is designed for the Titanic and Olympic, doesn’t matter which manufacturer they are from. It consists of the foremast and main mast, gooseneck fittings for the foremast derrick, jackstaff and ensign staff. There is also a small etched sheet which contains a new crows nest and navigation light holder, for the foremast. You will need to add some reinforcement under the deck for the masts to sit in but this shouldn’t be a problem for most modellers. Once rigged, and the instructions show clearly how the masts are rigged, they will look much better than the plastic items in the kit which are quite oversized. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big liners that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The masts are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded. With the addition of the other parts it will give that quality look to you r finished model. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
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A very humble wow and blimey from Sunny the Malvern Hills, A stunning thread and fabulous Nautilus so far, the lighting is a superb masterclass. Cheers sir. Nice one
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My sub is very nearly done, but not without a bit of last-minute panic! I've finished most of the weathering, and added the PE (except for the railing around the upper deck, which I plan to install only after the sub is affixed to the base): Bow ram: Anchor: Anchor chain. The kit provides a combination chain-windlass part , but I decided to replace it with a separate chain. This one is 3D printed (!) and includes crossbars in the links, which IMO is more interesting. Also note the weathering (streaking) effects on the vertical plates: Bridge viewport, a.k.a. "Frog's eye". I intentionally left out the kit's clear windows so the interior would be visible. Others have used liquid window-making products, but even that I feared would seriously reduce visibility into the bridge area: Upper deck. PE railings have not yet been added, but I did drill out the mounting holes to make assembly easier later on: Steps to the upper deck: Untitled by billn1953, on Flickr Stern PE: The PE we on pretty much without incident. That's the good news. The bad news is what I found when I removed the masking from the side windows: Aaarrrrggghhhhhhh!!!!!! Glue from the Aztek Dummy vinyl masks adhered to all of my clear surfaces. Others have raved about how good these masks are, so at first I thought it might have been something to do with the vacuform plastic I used to make the salon windows. But the same thing happened when I removed the circular masks from the kit's side spotlights. What to do? Fortunately, I found a bottle of this stuff which is recommended for removing sticker glue. There are a number of products like this, but it's important to find one that is safe on plastics. As it turned out, "Goo Gone" is also friendly to acrylic paint, so my window framing pretty much stayed in place when I started using it. After many hours of clean, rinse, clean, rinse, and a final coat of clear gloss acrylic, the salon windows are at least serviceable, although not as transparent as I would have liked: But at arms' distance, and with the lighting on, things are looking pretty good: Next up: tidy up / repaint the window frames, then start finishing up the base (install battery, switch, & wiring; decide where to put the green "ambient" lights; add miscellaneous detail items (shells, seaweed, etc.). Once that's done, I'll be ready to install the sub, and Bob's your uncle!
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Hi Does anyone have idea of the interior colours of these boats? Tiger Models give no call outs at all in their instructions...I have got a vouple of pics off t'internet but would appreciate a bit more clarity if possible. I'd be interested to see if anyone has any pics of the 4 boats the Navy had on trial some years ago, as well TIA Graeme
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Just a small update as the weathers doing its best to keep me from the bench, got a few of the deck fittings started and fixed down and started painting some of the parts I had previously made. TBH I don't have sufficient data on placement of all the small deck fittings so positioning of some of these is based on similar ships etc. Also added a bit more weathering to the hull along with some detail painting and addition of draft marks etc. I am hoping to get the rear deck house sorted in the next week or so then add the remaining railings and deck fittings. I feel its starting to come together now. (turrets not fixed at the mo its just for effect, i will be using the barbets to clamp it to a base so they will be one of the last bits fitted)
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I grow ever more impressed with this build! Martian
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FN Dunkerque/Strasburg Barrels 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale armament sets, but they are now increasing the items produced to add other accessories. As usual they are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models. [350-101] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits it includes both main, (330mm), secondary, (130”). These are all direct replacements for the kit parts, unlike the normal sets in which you just cut off the kit barrels, drill a hole and glue the metal barrels onto the remaining plastic parts, this set also includes resin mounts. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 1.9mm and 0.9mm respectively, and then you just add to the mounts within the turrets using the kit trunnion. [350-102] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four French training gun 90mm Model 1935. These are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you just add the barrel to the mounts and fit the recuperator to the top of the gun. [350-103] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four Twin Mount 37mm/50. Once again these are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount and etched details, for the seats and sights. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you add the barrels to the mounts, carefully fold the etched part to shape and glue into place. [350-104] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four French Quad Mount Hotchkiss 13,2mm/76. As with the other sets these are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount and etched details, for the gun controls, mounting and sights. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you add the barrels to the mounts, carefully fold the etched parts to shape and glue into place. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big French battleships that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The metal barrels are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded and the smaller weaponry will look so much better with the added etched parts.. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
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Starting to really come together now mate, nice
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I wouldn't dare .. Small progress Got second coaming on and be working on trying to achieve the grey colour weathered wood takes on Wanted white waterways, the tape is 1mm wide Thanks for stopping by Kev
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ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control
JohnWS replied to robgizlu's topic in Work in Progress - Maritime
You're working too fast for me Rob. Nice to see you back at it. Good start on the taut wire measuring gear, & a great idea for the handrails too. John -
WW1 German UB 1 type U-boat 1/144
Billydick replied to whitestar12chris's topic in Ready for Inspection - Maritime
Found this pic when looking for images of railings around conning tower, which since seeing this I've decided not to put them on mine. Those guys didn't have much to hang onto, but they all seem pretty relaxed .... BillyD -
New Ship Related Releases
Mick4350 replied to Chris Hewitt's topic in General Maritime modelling chat
Good thing that the USS Enterprise had beamed up all the crew prior to its sinking. -
Thats the HobbySearch page now updated with the Dorsetshire box art. Just as subtle as the initial release Exeter! LINK. Mike.
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