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  2. Never mind . . . seems to be my phone. I just logged in on my laptop and can see all. Sorry . . . BTW, I remember worrying about Osa's back in the day with those pesky Styx missiles. They were of concern! Jeff
  3. G'day Rob, I've never heard of it called that. Ours were painted white, had three long 'legs' instead of one with scoops and we called it a 'splash target'. We fired small arms and the .50cal m/g at the plumes/splashes created by the scoops at the rear of the legs. I actually made one once, half size (our real ones were about three feet long) for small-arms shoots off our patrol boat. That was decades ago, the things we did in our youth. 🙂 But thinking about it, it's use in fog makes sense. A following vessel should see it before it rams the corvette from behind. And as these ships were intended to operate in convoy, with lots of other ships in close company . . . 🙂 Your model is looking superb, and agreed, the fog tool/splash target does give a little high-light of colour. Regards, Jeff.
  4. Today
  5. just to make sure the wasp pilot can see I put some power to the defunct lighting system and hey presto they still work that was a bit of a Suprise. considering they have been in there 30 year, repairs nearly complete on the hanger, then back to the wasp, Im actually starting to enjoy this as I can build it again if im not happy with the 30 year one I've gained a bit of experience in that time and new moulding techniques, can only make it better,
  6. G'day, I can see them all. However, occasionally on threads I can't see images when others can, but that is usually only temporary. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  7. 5/8" is about 16mm (actually 15.8787mm) but seeing as Jon @Faraway is rather casual with his measurements I'd be inclined to let it go. 😁 Admittedly that hexagonal planking is rather good. (OOB I think said he would do. 😁) Regards, Jeff.
  8. Portholes are filled with Krystal Klear as is the Bridge windscreen Flag halyards and rear aeriels are added Likewise the aft Depth charge racks, depth charge throwers and refills The Bridge lattice supports are added - now it really does look like a Corvette And finally ship's boats are added, together with the multiple deck lockers that gives these vessels such a "busy" appearance I scratched and added a Fog tool that I saw in Liverpool Maritime museum. It was towed and threw up a substantial plue behind it which apparently made the vessel more apparent in Fog. Rather hopeful thinking methinks but it adds a bit of detail and some more colour And you can see it tucked next tothe kedge anchor If you look at the original photos you'll see a line stretching from the top of the turret to the bridge. It took me a while to find out that it's a "speaking tube" pipe allowing the Bridge to communicat with the 4" turret Virtually everything is done now other than the foc'sle deck which I need to keep clear to help me press it in to the base when it's "planted". Once she's in - the foc'sle deck can be fitted out with winch etc and then it's just the crew to do. At long last. Thanks for looking Rob
  9. Yesterday
  10. Thanks fellows for your interesting! This person just announces his model on polish modelling-forum, Modelwork. He even has no his web-site so it is a little bit mysterious matter. 😉 Top-secret industry??? "Birdie is his second or third model, earlier he produced cold-war era soviet Osa-class missile boat. 13 such boats served in Polish Navy during 1964-2006. Quite small (39 meters) boat but quite complex, I think. I am very sorry I don't know why you can't see my pictures. I always load these from Imgur. Has anybody the same problem? Meanwhile I still work with water on my Hibiscus-model... Regards, Michal
  11. Weathering completed. Final touch to the destroyer, the pennant number "H99" which was penciled onto the hull with a Mikron Pigma marker. Streaks created dragging some of the ink downwards with a flat brush. That´s it. Calling this done. ⚓👍
  12. Mixed update. First, the paint plan didn't work. Tamiya Nato black spray and Tamiya Nato paint don't match. The paint is way more matt and even after varnish. the areas I had touched up stood out. So, I gave up with that and went back to Vallejo paint, as I should have done from the start. Then Vallejo Hull red was way too dark brown (imho), loads of Fire Red later and I'm sort of OK with it. Also, using the mask to spray the draft marks was also a bit of a disaster, the pattern I had didn't match the way Victorian's painted their draft marks. So, all in all, a bit of a bad start to the painting stage really. I'll post on the draft marks later, still worrying that one The hull after painting Meanwhile the Sea Grey for the turtle deck looks OK, thinks that's a keeper. I've also been busy making deck canvas edging strips from 0.2 mm Aluminium, cut into 1.7mm wide strips and indented with a pin wheel to give the impression of fixings, using 3inch lengths which at 12 ft seemed a reasonable stock length for handling and also trying to get that pin wheel to behave on longer lengths with these narrow strips is just a route to insanity. I'll post a couple of pictures once I'm happy with the effect,. The actual canvas arrangement is not obvious so I'm interspersing other stuff while I consider this all To cheer myself up, I made a cleat for the ensign, there will be more of these needed. At least that worked... Then as a distraction, I went back to the forward gun platform planking and tried a version with a margin plank, seems much better, three stage iteration below. The laser reversing burns the wood slightly, hence version 3, I may try one more to see if I can make it better, its hard as the planks converge so the reversing is inevitable. This will be painted, so any final burning will not be obvious (I hope). Anyway, I'm much happier with this So much so, that I remade the capstan platform planks, way better While I was on that platform, I turned my attention to the handrailing. This is permanent round the platform and then run in wire rope to the bow jackstaff. The stanchions here are very low and non -standard @ 28 inches. I didn't have that size but cut down some 20mm stanchions and fitted rings to get the height right, soldering frame shown below. The existing legs on the platform are 1mm thin wall tube so they can take the stanchion pins The curved rail (0.7 mm) was beaten flat at one end and drilled to take the wire rope later before shaping and soldering it in a template Trial assembly, more fettling needed. Note the deck lights on the turtle back polished brass rings. Anyway, it's still all a little rough, but coming together. Lots more detail to go on this turtle deck..... Cheers Steve
  13. You might have to replace the rivets. Are they the right size? Look like 20mm instead of 19mm to me. Alright! maybe 17mm Tom What was that in old money? 5/8" Unless you were using Whitworth. But please don't start me on Whitworth!
  14. Michal, Your images are coming through (to me) as little blue squares with “?” on them. Perhaps it is a setting or something at my end? Or maybe because I am viewing them on my phone—others seem to be able to see them. The pics of the real ships came across fine though. Jeff
  15. Your welcome I built her 30 years ago and things have got a bit worse for wear, so time for a refit , the lads who looked after her at Birkenhead and a few others have been so much help in the build all them years ago. but she is accurate onwards to the water thank you for the words
  16. Wonderful work. My late father served on her and I visited her when she first went to Birkenhead. Thank you for keeping her memory alive.
  17. Today was working on the hanger and the MRS 3 just need tidying up , the railings need to be stripped and re painted as if I did it on top then the rail would look huge with coats of paint on I guess when you look at it close up and see the paint layers and chips it looks bad, but it all adds to the character, this is a 21 year old ship going to the Falklands I guess it would look a bit worn. maybe not this worn lol. yep Im going to leave it like that need to fix the window surround though , A bit of cracking in the plastic tamiya filler and a bit of acribond 120 50/50 with revell polystyrene cement really does the trick re coat with Light weather works grey Then i started on the MRS3 , Awkward little sucker this to build and to mold done in 4 pieces. all 4 bits together now base, main body, a scope on the side, and the dish. needs some wire and rod to make the dish complete . all painted up, a bit better now. the sea cat GWS is next more to come shortly
  18. Ah, but this time it was worth it....... Jon Now all I need to do, is 'persuade' the deck to fit the hull. Jon
  19. Good point, many thanks. I will give it a try at one of my next orders at one of the usual waterholes. There are simply two cons on this; I have tons of clear resin bottles left. The chance of mistaken it with Mikro Set is quite high! 😉 But given the usual high usability of the Micro products I guess it's worth the modest investment.
  20. Suffering for your art young'un You do take on challenging projects......... Rob
  21. You know ? Sometimes I think doing something is a good idea, so I start and then realise just what I've started. Let me explain. Looking at the deck of this boat, there are small wooden planked areas, which instead of painting I thought I'd plank them with some wooden decking I have. I've two sizes, 1/350 & 1/700, the 1/350 is just a bit big so I'm using 1/700. So planking the little squares on the deck is going to be fairly straightforward, then I realised that the aft gun bandstand is also planked, but not a single sheet, oh no, it's planked with duckboards. Guess what I'll be doing most of today. And I know I said this was an OOB build, well perhaps I wasn't being entirely honest. 1/700 deck planking And so it begins. Each piece is about 1.5mm wide. It might be making work for myself, but I reckon it'll look pretty good in the end. I've also just noticed the ejector pin marks, I will have to trim them off and touch up the paint, can't sand them because of the rivets. Jon
  22. Hello, an alternative would be with MICRO KRISTAL CLEAR to try. Fills windows/holes and is crystal clear when dry. It is also good for rigging because it is very sticky and sticks well and quickly.
  23. Good to see more progress David, just think how, in years to come, you will look at the completed model and think "How on earth did I do that?.... Cheers Steve
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