Jump to content

Maritime Content

Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, Maritime WWI to 1939, Maritime WWII, Maritime Cold War to 1990, Maritime Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates

  1. Past hour
  2. That is an interesting idea - use the sticky side of the masking tape to remove the "lint" from the copper where you can or use a lint roller, whatever may be handy and expedient. Will not remove all of the varnish but the flaky bits as a start. cheers Graham
  3. Hmmm, an interesting development. What clear varnish did you use? Acrylic or ? Maybe this is a reaction of some sort between the oil wash you had previously applied and the clear varnish. Perhaps the oil wash had not yet completely cured ( i.e. oxidized ) through and you handling removed the topmost bit of the oil paint wash allowing the varnish to react with the oil. Looks like it may be a case of "lean over fat" rather than "fat over lean" if you get my meaning. Any sort of solvent may as you fear cause lifting of the previously applied copper tape strips but I fear that there is likely not much choice. Lots of cotton swabs, carefully used and using the mildest solvent that works seems the way ahead. Start with something mild like window cleaner and work your way to something stronger. Something like Brasso or Silvo may work. They are both mildly abrasive, Brasso being a bit more so than the Silvo. cheers, Graham
  4. You could perhaps try polishing the copper ? Brasso or Duralit used very gently ? Then test another varnish, not a modelling one, on some spare copper. Maybe stick some masking tape over the copper, a low tack one may be safer. Jon
  5. Today
  6. That was a misplaced hope. This is what I found when I woke this morning. The Clear varnish reacted with the copper, mostly in the places which would have had most handling. It seems to be the copper damaging the varnish rather than the other way around. The worst parts just wiped away but theres a lot of varnish that's, at this moment, mechanically sound but is clouded and greenish. Removing it with alcohol risks lifting the plates of copper. Removing all of the copper is impossible due to its fragility and the tenacity of its glue. Any Ideas? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On a happier note, the base looks reasonable. The masts are dry fitted just for an impression of the final layout.
  7. Modellers of a certain age may remember Harry Woodman's scratch built model that was on display in the old Seagull Model Shop in South Kensington. Apparently he used the Wilhelmshaven card model as a guide to build his from plastic card. I wonder if the model still exists? It was incredibly well detailed and I think Harry's build was featured way back in a Scale Models magazine back in the MAP publication days in the 70's I think.
  8. Interesting project! I can't help, but quite serious guy on the Polish forum is building one, you may check: https://modelwork.pl/topic/49169-w-schleswig-holstein-1935-trumpeter-1350/ Good luck!
  9. Yesterday
  10. Spray painting has been done. Better than I feared, worse than I had hoped - still a lot to learn. Lots of touching up to do, need to add wood colour to the upper most deck - and blowing the paint dust from the masking tapes off. Also visible are the parts to be added (painted separately to ease the masking. Taking off more and more tape is therapeutic, even if putting it on isn't. Then the brass/wire railings and final cranes that came with the kit before finally rigging.
  11. If it helps, HMS Ramillies' torpedo bulges were most like those fitted to Royal Oak. Those on Royal Sovereign, Revenge and Resolution were rather different.
  12. I've not been very active on the Beagle today. The reconstructed head was painted. It's obviously still incomplete but looks a lot better than the Steven Fry version. Then I noticed that handling was causing several of the copper tiles to lift at the corners. It was less than a mm but the reflections gave it away. I've put a couple of coats of Humbrol satin clear on it and hope that stops things getting worse. 141:00
  13. Fantastic build! Thank you for this trip down memory lane as well - I recall building this kit W-A-Y back in the mid-1960s (and some of Pyro's model car kits). Back then proper plastic model cement was a luxury (I was a kid of around 10 years old, growing up in a household where both my parents were products of the Great Depression - let's just say plastic models were viewed with disdain) (and that is a severe understatement), so I had to use my imagination when it came to painting - I would love to imagine that it may have looked something like that!
  14. Gidday All, I've reshaped the forward section of HMS Cochrane's upper deck using another kit's deck as a guide, and razed it abaft the turrets. I was thinking of cutting the deck across, behind 'C' turret and flipping the aft deck section upside down instead of razing it but ultimately decided against that idea. I'll have to cut it at some point and insert a 15mm section but I'll decide where later. Currently the deck is the length of a USS South Dakota class battleship which were thirty feet shorter than these ships. I used a razor saw and razor blade to remove the molded on superstructure bulkheads and 6-inch turret barbettes. I may have to remove 'C' turret barbette too. The job is a bit rough, still needs cleaning up a bit. But first I think I'll have to plug the holes in the deck, both those made by the 6-inch barbette's removal and all those little holes for fitting items that now have to be re-sited. Easier to do it now while the deck is still free. Included in the photo are the screws I've made but they probably won't be fitted until much later. Also I've slotted the two forward barbettes and added keyways to the trunks of those turrets. Plus I've filled in the tops of the turrets above the range-finders although it's not very evident in this photo. Instead of filling in the gap I mentioned in an earlier post with filler I glued another strip of styrene (0.5mm thick) into the gap and then trimmed it to the shape/curve of the turret roof, before adding a touch of filler and sanding them smooth. This was so I could glue items to the tops of the turrets later, such as Carley floats or AA guns. They may not have glued to the filler very well. You may have noticed some bits of scrap styrene glued to the inside of the hull, just under the upper deck level. This is to assist in fitting the upper deck later. The existing lip for the deck is not very prominent and when I tried to dry-fit the deck it kept popping into the hull. So I thought these might help. Well, that's it for now. Besides this build I'm trying to still make headway on my other, HMAS Vampire II (a blatant free plug ), so progress isn't as far as it should by now. Oh well . . . so thank you for your interest, stay safe and regards, Jeff.
  15. Hi Folks WoW what a great response from you all a big Thank You Cause of you all started the ball rolling I think I have found a kit and it's a huge Project https://fleetscale.com/store/gb/74-rn-royal-sovereign-class I'm still investigating the kit and I know it's expensive but far cheaper than Deans Marine by £300 so if it goes ahead I will post on the forum about the progress Cheers Tommy
  16. Google black cat models or Starling models.
  17. Hi All, Does anyone here know of any place where I can purchase 3D figures for 1/350 scale British warships ships? I can only see WW2 figures and modern USN figures of which I am not sure if these would sit right on a modern ship, is it a case that the figures are so small that you wouldn't notice? I have seen the photo etch figures and if I am to be honest they dont sit right and nor do the tamiya 2D figures either. Really looking for either a company that make them or STL files, not fussed as along as I can get my hands on some. If it helps they will be for the Airfix 1/350 HMS Daring. Any help would be great. Cheers Richard
  18. As ever you underestimate your skill and over estimate the problems David. They look excellent to me given this is a scale that should be reserved for Borrowers... Cheers Steve
  19. Surely the whole point of modelling.... Carry on entertaining us good sir Kev
  20. Hi Les, they appear to be normal white metal thankfully, bearing in mind the excavation work required on the cockpits, you can see the process on the Scimitar below, with the components from the kit at the top. Due to the fact that most of my tools and junk is in storage due to impending house sale, I am limited to some files and some twist drills, so it feels a bit like trying to rebuild a car with only an adjustable spanner !! But at least it keeps me happy, and I feel that I am at least achieving something !! The cockpit excavation is pretty rough and ready, what with drill and file marks, but at this scale under a coat of black paint I am hoping it will look like intentional detail Cheers David
  21. I don't know how I missed this superb thread, but have just had a good catch up. Your modelling skills are awesome, and this is a fascinating project to watch. So much of the additional detail is excellent to watch but I especially loved seeing these.... ........oh, and your Swordfish rendition is exquisite! Will enjoy and watch this one for sure! Terry
  22. The kit has been available on ebay for a while, ive been tempted but will have to save my pennies as it is £80 to buy, plus 1/200 is an odd scale to match with other subs. The Nichimo I-19 and Riich's Gato are in this scale, whereas other nuclear boats are in 1/144. The biodegradable label just means if you bring it into contact with micro organisms, such as those in soil, it will break down. But if its sealed with a clear cote i cant see a problem. All the best Chris
  23. It's where I spend far too much of my time according to her indoors. I'll bide my time on the KG.V, something'll turn up if I'm patient, they normally do. Steve
  24. Gidday Steve, although it pains me to use foul language on the forum, have you looked "on line" (I'll wash my mouth out. ) Not much available in Airfix ships over here now either. I've got one KGV kit left, I bought it as a fall back some years ago while I could still get one. And yeah, a Lion class is an option for it as I've got a few more Nelsons too, again bought while I had the chance. Hopefully a KGV will pop up your way sometime in the future. Regards, Jeff.
  25. Last week
  26. This one. @ArnoldAmbrose Jeff, I like what you're doing with this, I've an old Nelson kit I built probably 50+ years ago tucked away & have thought for a bit now that with a KG.V kit I could bodge a Lion out of them, your turret improvements would be most useful for that. The fly in the ointment of course are KG.V kits, a bit unobtainium around here. Keep up with the good work, Steve.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...