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Maritime Content

Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, WWI to 1939, WWII, Cold War to 1990, Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. Gidday again, I've been called a lot of things, that's some of the nicest, almost a compliment. Almost. Regards from the silly Antipodes, Jeff.
  3. Sounds odd doesn't it? What I mean is that as I do not belong to any club that displays at Telford, I have to put my models in the competition if they are to be on show at all. To this end I no longer build my models with a view to winning prizes and any award is an added and unexpected bonus. Has anyone ever told you, you are a very, very silly Earthing? I am hoping that the postie brings the grating material today as I would like to sort the hatches out as early as possible into the build. Thanks Jeff. You too are a very silly Antipodean Earthling! Martian the Sensible
  4. This build thread describes the construction of a 1/350 scale model of HMS Prince of Wales (R09) which was displayed by Airfix at SMW 2019, Telford where I am shown with Darrell Burge, Hornby Brand Manager: Background to this build In April 2014, the Royal Navy contacted Airfix to commission a model of HMS Queen Elizabeth (R08) that was under construction in Rosyth Dockyard. Airfix asked me to scratch-build a 1/350 model which was subsequently displayed at the naming ceremony of HMS Queen Elizabeth in Rosyth on 4th July 2019. Thereafter it’s permanent home was the Wardroom of HMS Queen Elizabeth: Pic 001: In April 2019, I was again commissioned by Airfix, this time to scratch-build a 1/350 model of HMS Prince of Wales, the second of the Queen Elizabeth Class aircraft carriers. It would be shown at SMW 2019, Telford and thereafter it’s permanent home would be the Hornby Hobbies Visitor Centre in Margate. I hope that you enjoy following this build which may seem a bit unconventional in some parts. There were some problems to overcome but the worst difficulty was having to cope with severe concussion that I suffered five weeks before Telford. It was touch and go as to whether I would complete it in time but I only managed it by leaving off photo-etch and some other small details. To use an old Chinese proverb “a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step”. This is the first of many sheets of plastic card used in the build: Pic 002: Although this build would be constructed mainly of plastic card, I would be using a Tamiya 1/350 USS Enterprise hull to give it some inner strength. The hull was shortened in length, all sponsons removed and keel removed and openings blanked off with plastic card. Plastic card was used to fill in the missing parts of the sides and clamped. Note that I have used the cut out section of hull to brace the new join of the midships and aft sections of hull: Pic 003: Forward section (bow excluded) glued in place: Pic 004: Putting aside the hull to dry, I cut out the Flight Deck. Being 800cm long, it would be a right handful in the confines of my modelling den: Pic 005: This situation was made worse by the fact that I was building two at once (a waterline version for myself) Pic 006: Once the hull had dried, I drilled four holes which were fitted with four 80mm M6 bolts epoxied in place. The model was then secured to a temporary chipboard base that would be used until the final day of the build (the Flight Deck hasn’t been glued in place yet): Pic 007: The most complicated part of this build is the construction of the Forward (Ship Control) and Aft (Flyco) Islands. Because of this, I decided to build the islands for both ships at the same time. Here are the Aft Islands: Pic 008: The plastic card is rather thin (0.20mm) and requires plenty of framing to prevent "dishing" of the panels: Pic 009: Pic 010: Here the two islands have been placed on the Flight Decks of the two builds. You can see the full-hull version to the rear: Pic 011: Bit more work: Pic 012: I do like using lots of filler: Pic 013: Sanding of filler was completed and then I moved onto the assembly of the Flying Control Rooms: Pic 014: I did consider having acetate glazing but after some experimentation I decided that it would not be easy to do a good job: Pic 015: Another view showing the multiple facets of the Aft Island: Pic 016: View from ahead: Pic 017: PART IB Having applied filler to the Aft Islands again, I started construction of the Forward Islands (Ship Control): Pic 018: I just can’t leave the Aft Islands alone. The filler around the Flying Control Rooms (FCRs) has been sanded and I have been adding some of the many platforms: Pic 019: Filler applied and sanded again. You can see that I have also added window wiper boxes above where the FCR windows will go: Pic 020: I then cut some "T" section plastic strip to go around plastic card discs to represent the platform for the Type 997 Artisan 3D Radar. Hopefully, when painted the ends of the "T" will look like thin rods like on the original: Pic 021: They were then glued in place and I started on the platform on the starboard side of the Aft Island: Pic 022: Once the platform had been sanded I started on the overhang of the Bridge on the starboard side. As you can see, I have glued strips of plastic card to the bulkhead first and built the overhang around them: Pic 023: One of the islands once the overhang has been completed: Pic 024: Green blobs on the Aft Island denote the locations of watertight doors: Pic 025: WEM watertight doors have been glued in place on the Aft and Forward Islands. Note that the watertight doors do not sit flush with the bottom of the bulkheads but are raised slightly: Pic 026: Taking a break from the island activity, I turned to the stern. The transoms for both versions were fabricated and the various openings cut and drilled: Pic 027: Turning to the hull briefly, I screwed hardwood dowelling inside the hull to give it some rigidity, a necessity as the plastic card is more flexible than the original dark grey plastic. The silver fitting at the stern is only temporary and supports the stern ensuring that the top of the hull remains horizontal. It will be removed once the ship is bolted to a temporary base: Pic 028: The full-hull version will be permanently mounted on a base 800mm long and here I am drilling the locating holes for the 80mm M6 bolts. The base won’t be fitted until the very end of the build: Pic 029: I have started to apply mahogany stain. So far I have applied three coats but I will need another two coats. Once finished the base was stored safely until needed: Pic 030: img]http://www.davecov.net/modelling/models/pictures/ships/Prince_Of_Wales_350/Prince_Of_Wales_350_048.JPG[/img] Now the base has been fitted I turned my attention to the Flight Deck and here I have marked the outline of the hull: Pic 031: I glued pieces of plastic card to the underside of the Flight Deck which ensure that the hull will be correctly aligned: Pic 032: First piece of Flight Deck glued in place. Note the plastic card "tab" glued to the front of the Flight Deck that will support the midships section of Flight Deck: Pic 033: The midships piece of Flight Deck glued to the hull and clamped. I couldn't resist putting the Islands on: Pic 034: Bow section of the Flight Deck has been glued in place: Pic 035: That's all for now. Dave
  5. Gidday Martian, please accept my accidental congratulations. They were good models. Jamie, give him a break! You could at least let him have the week-end. Regards, Jeff.
  6. Gidday Beefy, I've never really been into Russian ships, mainly I guess because Airfix didn't do them in 1/600 (Moskva excepted). This destroyer certainly looks a potent vessel, one I wouldn't like to mess with. She's looking good. Regards, Jeff.
  7. Gidday Jim, to attach small parts to a deck (or bulkhead) I sometimes drill a small hole into the bottom of the part where it can't be seen, another hole in the deck under the part and join them with a short piece of thin styrene rod. This also makes painting easier if the part is to be a different colour to the deck. Paint them separately before attaching them. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  8. Hannants got it in stock yesterday (LINK) and here's HobbySearch's look inside: LINK. I have the Profile Morskie volume on the Kent and Trumpeter definitely used that as their main reference from what I can see. Mike.
  9. Accidentally won..... How very careless of you oh be-tentacled one. It's astounding to think they sailed all the way to (almost) America in such a small vessel - makes a change from the usual "Ships Of The Line" that we see. This is going to be an interesting build.
  10. Hi all, I'm about to start a submarine model (one of the new Russian SSBNs, the Zvezda kit), and have a slight concern. The submarine is painted black. Usually I would paint the model some colour, then use washes to darken lines, add effects or shading, or whatever. That isn't really feasible with black. Then there is the scale lightening effect. So, how do people approach the issue of what colour to paint a black ship? I am considering using dark grey, and then liberally using a few layers of washes to darken it down, but keep the 'pop' impact of the various recessed details. Please note that I don't have an airbrush, and don't plan on getting one soon.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Thanks John, I have nothing I have to do tomorrow so hopefully I make a start on this and get a bit more done on the Triebflugel models. Thanks Rob, we will see what we can do to oblige. Martian
  13. HMS Exeter 1:350 Etch Set With the release of the Trumpeter 1:350 HMS Exeter is was only a matter of time before White Ensign Models brought out an etched set. As per usual the set has been designed by Peter Hall of Atlantic Models and sold on the Toms Modelworks website, as well as a large, well known emporium in Lowestoft. If you’ve used WEM’s sets before then you pretty much know what you’re going to get. A great selection of brass parts to really enhance your model of this famous ship. Some kit parts will need to have their detail removed before the brass can be added others are completely replaced by brass and there are parts that Trumpeter missed out, but have been included on this sheet. This very comprehensive set comes on a single large fret which is 290 x 195mm with about 113 different parts squeezed onto it. As well as a full ships set of railings, including specially shaped parts for the fo’c’sle there are a host of watertight doors, some of which can be posed open should the modeller desire, deck hatches, vertical ladders, inclined ladders and support braces for all the smaller platforms that get missed in the kit. The main gun turrets are provided with new rear access doors, while the 4” secondary mounts are provided with new railings, hand wheels and sights. The 0.5” quad machine gun mountings are completely replaced with brass parts with each mounting consisting of four parts, two of which will need some careful folding. The paravanes are also heavily modified with most of the plastic detail removed leaving just the body. The fins, fin support, tail and wire cutter are then added. One of the most interesting features of HMS Exeter at this period of her career was the twin fixed catapults. The kit pieces are completely discarded and replaced with much more detailed items complete with the two extending sections for each catapult. Please note that only one catapult could be extended at a time as they would clash if both extended. This set also included new aircraft launch cradles one for each aircraft in the kit. There is also an aircraft access platform which was mobile to access either catapult. The aircraft crane is also extensively modified, or if the modeller wants completely replaced. You can either add some detail to the crane base cab, and just replace the jib or you can replace the cab as well. Both of which will require some careful folding, but the finished crane will look so much more realistic. Each funnel is provided with a new internal walkway and funnel cap, while the fore funnel is also provided with two new sirens and their respective platforms. The various Carley flots need to have the internal gratings removed as these are replaced with brass parts giving them a much more accurate look. The floats are also provided with paddles. Some of the kit parts are themselves made of brass, but I find the Trumpeter brass to be too thick, thus, items such as the depth charge rails are replaced with the thinner brass in this set. If you want to load up the rails you will need to make the depth charges from 1.5mm styrene rod cut to 2mm lengths. Items such as the boat support frame and boat cradles are also provided on the sheet completely replacing the kit plastic parts, with the exception of the davits. The boats themselves are given new gunwales, thwarts, and rudders for the open boats, and new interior cabins for the motor boats, which is also provided with a seat for the coxswain, boats wheel, windscreen and hand rails and light mast for the cabin roof. Moving onto the aircraft, there are parts for each type, with the Supermarine Walrus receiving replacement struts for the mainplanes, horizontal tailplanes, engine mounted struts and floats. The Walrus also gets a new engine mount, propeller, scarff rings, wheels, landing gear legs and two Lewis machine guns. If you wish to pose the Walrus with wings folded, there is also an option for that in the shape of the wing hinge fold and inner rib faces. The Fairey IIIF has fewer parts to replace, but these include the interplane struts, Lewis gun, float struts, and propeller. For the rest of the ship there are new baffles and gratings for the bridge, a completely new WT office and aerial house, much finer signal platform supports that you could possible produce in plastic, anchors, and new boiler room vent boxes in two different styles. The two masts are provided with new yardarms, complete with footropes, while the foremast is also given a new DT aerial and platform, new lower platform and two TBS antenna. The rest of the sheet includes wardroom window hatches, washdeck locker hatches, 4” ammunition locker doors, leadsman platforms, flag lockers, bridge semaphores and aldis lamps. Conclusion It’s great that the fine name of White Ensign Models has been saved by Toms Modelworks and having great detail sets released under that name. The set itself is well up to the usual standard we have come to expect from Peter Hall and will help produce a wonderfully detailed model of this great ship. While it may not be as comprehensive as the detail sets from other manufacturers it’s still up there with the best, and if you are on a limited budget then this is the set to go for. Review sample kindly provided be Richard at
  14. And Very fine were Le Corsair and la Fauvette in the flesh! Congratulations from me. Looking forward to seeing the same magic deployed here Rob
  15. Like all of us, I’d take whatever we can get in 1/350 RN, cos let’s face it there’s precious little out there (stand fast the wondrous Atlantic Models Cold War offerings). But the one which always astonishes me is the lack of an Illustrious. Malta icon? Tick. Aircraft changed the entire Med war in a single night? Tick. Very similar sisters involved in actions vs Bismarck AND Tirpitz (Victorious) and kamikaze in the Far East (Formid)... excellent references available (pretty much complete Victorious plans)... yet no-one’s gone near one. You can get 1/350 Nazi paper carriers that never put to sea, but a WW2 Lusty in 1/350? Not a dicky bird.
  16. For those lines - techincally wires I guess - I use fishing line and get the built in curve to provide the sag. Having those lines tight never looks quite right to me
  17. Hi, Thanks Jamie, I will look to see what Uschi do, trouble is I have some objects that need trapping between a number of strands and any stretch wont keep them aligned as intended, and using nylon for those and stretchy for others wont see a match in the sizes and appearance. It will have to be nylon for all on one model and uschi for all on another. Glad there is an alternative to twisty look for EZline. TallBlondJohn, trouble with pairs is going from a flimsy stern mast to centre mast, there is no way of pulling sternmast aft, ditto bow mast. Merlin
  18. That's a decision you'll need to make for you. Every way has it's advantages and disandvantages... maybe try it out on a testsubject (empy bottle or the like...) Only thing missing is his radio control...
  19. Links to flower class corvette forum and Dianella page with another(not such good quality) page https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/theflowerclasscorvetteforums/ https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/theflowerclasscorvetteforums/hms-dianella-t535.html
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