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AFV Content

Showing topics in WWI & Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Work in Progress - Armour, Ready for Inspection - Armour, Real Armour, Armour Chat, large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above), Kits, Armoured Fighting Vehicle Reviews, Aftermarket, Diorama & Accessory and Reference Material and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. @Murdo @Jasper dog Thanks very much for the comments and apologies for the late reply, things have been a bit traumatic here recently but things are slowly getting back to normal. I'll post an update on what little has been going on modelling wise and a brief explanation later. Roger.
  3. Great looking ISU-152 Roman! If you plan to build another one, you can maybe use the resin tracks for the KV-1/KV-2 from OKB Grigorov. Peter
  4. Looks nice, It looks great with those additions... Cheers Dan
  5. In fact, the quality is noticeable compared to other brands, cheaper and / or oldies, both in plastic, assembly and painting instructions. I also have an idea of how this kit ends, get an Mk5, because I also love its turret, and especially a detail, which I missed in this, the piece that is on top of the barrel, "super- cool "... Cheers Soeren
  6. Today
  7. Crossdelta makes them, not very expensive but I’ve only seen them at lucky model.
  8. Jasper dog

    Sherman III

    Thanks Ant, gives a handy illustration of the major differences! Cheers Darryl
  9. Yesterday
  10. I suppose that depends whether your tanks are for looking good on parades or actually for fighting your enemies!! With almost no contrast the Qatari scheme is effectively useless at more than a few metres distance. It neither hides nor disguises the subject and will be obscured by dust in minutes. DAK made that mistake with their early low-contrast RAL 8000 over RAL 7008 camo scheme and were forced to darken the disruptor colour to RAL8020 in March '42. British desert camo was notably high-contrast in WW2. In the desert you need to bring your own contrast as there isn't any naturally. Having said that, many recent and current national desert/arid schemes have been or are monotone. Despite experimenting with camo and been involved in more conflicts than most countries since WW2, Israel has stuck with monotone colours - for example. As Turkey is discovering with its used 2A4s along the Syrian border, Leopards are not especially survivable without the add-on turret armour. The design philosphy has always prioritised mobility and lethality ahead of baseline survivability, and the enemy is not aways direcly to your front. So making a compromise here could prove to be a costly misjudgement should Qatar (and Hungary?) be involved in a shooting war or insurgency. During the development of MBT80 and CR2 the UK experimented with fabricated turret shells in both steel and aluminium but concluded that cast steel shells were ballistically preferable beneath the outer composite and applique layers. Both CR1 and CR2 have cast steel turret shells, and if you have seen the surviving MBT80 concept turret shell on the ATR2 test rig in Bovington's VCC that is a steel casting too - despite its angular fabricated appearance. One of the aluminium fabricated test turrets survives on another test rig vehicle there too. But my geekery is getting the better of me again: must take my meds ......................... Back in the room, I can only agree that the model (which this thread was originally about!) is indeed most excellent.
  11. 156. Using the template, attaching the rivets is a piece of cake: dipping cocktail stick into Future (or the like), next using the still moist cocktail stick to push the rivet to its designated location. That's all. After a minute it's quite steady, after some minutes it's firmly attached. In one minute 5 out of 8 rivets are in situ. 157. Template and glue were removed at the rear end. 162. From vacuformed to ready for paining... 165. After turning the new mould, both halves of the wheel were to be joined. 171. When I make a drawing, chances are big that I'll misinterpret it even a few hours later. That's pretty dumb. So I had to restart twice. Also, the drawing was incorrect in one aspect. 172. In the end it looks like this. 178. The thing I dreaded most was to turn the extremely thin and long axle from differential toward wheel (in real life: the propulsion axle housing). Miraculously and probably by mistake, this worked just fine, but I'm sure the axle wasn't far from breakage. 181. Dryfit of the outer rim. 182. Here the inner rim in situ.
  12. The latest pictures from the build (sry I am slow). For now I glued all hatches and doors in closed position with easy to remove wood glue, even though I will show most of them opened in the end. This will make the painting easier (I hope). The instrument panel is (a bit) scratched. The body parts really fit extremely well. Big prais for copperstate.
  13. LOL! Now we know what wooden nickels are for!
  14. Nice kit, recently started one of the same brand, and must admit, casting is marvelous... Can't say I love the design of this tank, but certainly interested
  15. Tracks and wheels ready, and the whole model starting looks like tank
  16. I have just ordered this, would be most interested to see your build.
  17. Last week
  18. Parts H1 and H2 are fitted as per the drawing. I found a three part video on Youtube looking inside and outside of the Panther, and you can see that those parts are as shown on the instructions. HTH .
  19. Well that caught my eye! super job very nicely done indeed
  20. Wow that's impressive. Fantastic painting and weathering in 1/72! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix
  21. The Indian army used the british version of the FAL (L1a1) and our police force still uses it, very sturdy rifle, if somewhat cumbersome due to its length
  22. Looking good... nice work on the tubing... Almost there
  23. interesting step by step. Nice work so far.
  24. Well the weathering has started, general XF57 buff ,low PSI sprayed at distance. just to take the sharpness of the paint work off. Going to start on the subtle dirt streaks next. picked up some earth pastels from good old Amazon. 12 different shades and colours for about £8 . Like a Muppet I have forgotten to gloss the decal area so a little bit of silvering , so it's setting solution galore to try and soften them up and maybe lift them
  25. You are absolutely right, but sometimes dirt goes like this.
  26. Bit of silence with this one, but was waiting for some marterial to be able to continu... The mast consists from 7 sliding parts, so I've bought 2 slidefit sets from Albion Alloys. Only disadvantage is that these sets sets can't be combined. so I had to enlarge a hole, which led to some deformation (only 0.1mm material thickness). Lengths are based on the resinparts. and both sets assembled: then I drilled out a tube of 2mm to make these fir and cut and bent some brass to make the antennaholder: this is 8mm by 2 by 2mm... seems larger on the picture . The two axles at the back are to be able to mount it to the vehicle: and fully assembled... I have no clue if this height seems legit or not... so opinions, remarks, etc about this are welcome... ready to add the rest of the detail...
  27. German Panzer Grey is a really hard colour to get to have some life in it. In reality is was a very dark colour, virtually black I've read - (still a hotly disputed). But for me, at this scale you need to accentuate colour and contrast to create visual interest Try giving this a read. I found it interesting. https://jllopezstyle.com/tiger-i-bw-technique/# As you can see, sometime better to start off with a light and dark contrasts.
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