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It seems that at home in the UK the light van based canteen was the norm. I haven't seen any period photos of lorry-based ones in the UK. In N Africa, yes. In NW Europe after D Day, yes. A couple of overseas presentation pieces from such as the American Red Cross. Here is another one at a Coastal Command station. But YMCA, not NAAFI. It seems that they and the Salvation Army Red Shield were just as active in this field as NAAFI were. This one isn't a Ford. I think it is a Morris LC3 similar to the preserved 1943 one below. Here's another caravan, but civilian again: NFS.

I recall following this with great interest when it was in WIP. Fantastic finished article, so I’m really glad you got there in the end. It’s a real brute of a machine, and that really comes across, with excellent weathering, a lovely base and very nice figures. Top job all round!

Really nice result for what must bdd we a pretty ancient kit. Lovely camo…. Well done!

Hello everygody, Here are some photos of the assembly progress. At this stage I added many smaller parts and the snorkel for the engine, a fuel can holder on the right side and others, but I paid special attention to the dashboard of the vehicle.

Getting there mate, looking forward to the next installment, that dash makes a world of difference, are you displaying with door open even though kit does not give the option ?, I used a couple of pe brass fret off cuts to make hinges if it helps 👍 cheers Mark

I like them a lot! It looks like they are hauling a lot of stuff around...

That is not 100% correct. It very much depends on the wavelength cutoff of yellow color you use as a base. If the cutoff is <500nm you get green. This is common behavior of pure RGB mixers though that do not express common behavior of real pigments. Here is the reality: Yellow pigments (in below example: Cadmium Yellow) are strong absorbers (blue line) in short wavelengths (blue) but their scattering (red line) remains quite high across all wavelenghts. On the other hand, the black color is an even slightly weaker absorber than yellow (I know, it is surprising!) in the short wavelengths, but its scattering and absorption increases with wavelengths. It is also weakest absorber around 400-500nm range (blue green). Y scales are relative to each other, those are Kubelka-Munk parameters of those two paints. When you mix those paints, the curves add up and the resulting color is: Very strong absorbption of blue color, and progresively more scattering in green ranges, then again black absorbtion takes over and removes the red wavelengths. When mixed, those two colors will result under spectrophotometer as a bit bent curve with peak around 500nm. Which is, in fact, slightly olive green. The resulting color is It is 25:1 mix of those two paints. Black and yellow will make green but not very saturated one. Here is for example what progressive addition of Raw Sienna (think: orange brown mud) does to that paint mixture above. Notice that the color shift is gradual, the green from black&yellow is quite strong You need to add more red shifted yellows, oranges or outright red to get more orangey green/brown. And this is what addition of yellow iron oxide probably does in the above recipe.

Hi Paul, many thanks for your kind comments, much appreciated mate. Yep, the tracks are the (pleasant) surprise of the kit, super easy to assemble, and super cool, solid, detailed, rollable without breaking... and made of plastic... without spending a cent on upgrades... the best I've found so far, even the Friulis, are more difficult to assemble because you need one pin per link... it's a shame the example doesn't catch on. Cheers Francis 👍

Thanks for looking in and for your suggestion. The wavy line on the barrel has not gone as planned. I have to remix some grey to touch up other areas so I might end up rubbing the barrel down, repainting the grey and masking on the OD No.31 as you suggest.

Hi Matt, Impressive work on the model. As if the kit wasn't already complete, that wiring is fantastic. I hope it shows in the end somehow. And the paint job is also impressive. I love how it looks. Cheers Francis. 👍

Also thinking of changing this thread to "Tank Transporters" There's an Academy Dragon Wagon on the shelf of wotsits and an IBG Scammel and a Revell SLT 50-3 in their boxes awaiting attention.

That's brilliant MM. The models themselves are great, but those figures are first class, especially when you realise the scale is 1/48th. Great job all round. John.

Hi Francis. You're right that it's a huge project. Even a small job such as attaching the track guard extension supports, is taking forever. (It doesn't help that the Israelis altered the positions). But it's very nice to have you back again, and to have your comments. John.

I’ve completed the 3 colours but, having removed the ‘white tac’ sausages, I need to do some touch ups.

May have to see if the engine co er can be left off... Am going all green chassis and engine with black and aluminium detailing

Very nice M10! Great crew too! Wished my muppets turned out half-good as yours 🙃 Zig

Fantastic work, Alessandro! Looks like a huge effort was put into this. Love these tenquettes.

Great work.

I picked up turret blanket box and some ammo boxes I needed.After quick sand, I attached those in place. 25pdr box was attached to stowage rack and straps securing it were made out of masking tape. It seems from the photos that putty on filled in locating holes on the left side of the hull sinked a bit so I'll check it and rework it later on. I also put together one run of the tracks. It takes some time as I need to re-drill holes for pins to get them in specs first with 0.7 and then with 0.8 drill bit to prevent cracks. But with good podcast playing, it's relaxing job. I also started on making some drawing for building which will be a part of diorama but it quickly get out of the hands and resulted in 3D model. Here's a WIP screen before I started working on upper floors. I'm not going to print the whole building as it's going to be around 30 cm / 12 inch high, but some details like windows and so on will be definitelly printed to speed up a process.

Hi Keith, Good work on the kit, it must be almost like making a real one...lol It's logical that because it's bigger, the wrong parts are more visible and need to be corrected. At least the size helps with handling, on the positive side. I don't think I'll ever make a 1/16 kit; space is important...and with all the 1/35 kits, I don't think I'd have room even for them if I were to make them someday...lol. I'll try to follow along, because when I finish it and in winter, it must look splendid. Cheers Francis.👍

Adapting the engine deck on either kit is essentially the same, needing only some line filling and scribing. The difficult part is the triangular locks, but these do come in at least 1 of the etched brass sets. Voyager, IIRC. Before Accurate Armour ran out I managed to get their Type F hull to do a late Mk VI and their D/E/F engine deck and 'Vauxhall' drivers hatch to do Mk Vw. Which of course means that I need 2 sets of the BRCW sprockets from TRex.......

Not much to report on this project. Instead I started on another I have finished the loading ramps but I have some work to do at the other end of the trailer before I can mount them to the trailer. Using my Cameo I have been cutting frames that will go around all of the holes. Getting them in place is next to do. In 1960 Sweden bought 20 Rogers M9 trailers and I got the Matchbox kit that I want to use for a build of one of those. I made a trip to the Army museum's library to have a look at the instruction book for the trailer to figure out what modifications was made. But the biggest problem will be the truck for this. I have the instruction book for the Scania Vabis LA82 and a couple of simple drawings to help me. I was going to build an ARC Clubmobile so I had bought a CCKW353 from PST for this, but the cab is no good. I had a look of it and compared it to the Scania drawing and found that the side profile were close enough for a conversion. The CCKW cab was 5 mm to narrow so I had to cut it in half and widen it. I used super glue and baking soda for this. A piece of plasticard was added to the roof so I could make it higher and more rounded. The cargo bed without the personnel cab that is usually seen on it has been scratchbuilt. I have decided to use the chassis from the Matchbox kit even though it won't be correct. The Matchbox chassis has the correct length, the engine and gearbox are placed correct in the chassis. The wheel spacing in the bogie is very close and the wheels has the right size. The rear axles and bogies do look different, but since I intended to mount the vehicle on a base I'll let that pass as it becomes quite invisible. A little carving in the chassis and the bogie can be moved forward approx. 5 mm. I also need to fix a new front axle as the Scania was all wheel drive.

Excellent work and a really helpful guide, there are so many hints and tips in here.

Nice progress. 👍

Thanks for that info. It just shows how far things had moved on from my time. I was in from 64-69. No such thing as tracked vehicles then, and our radio relay was housed in the back of an Austin K9. John.