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AFV Content

Showing topics in WWI & Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Work in Progress - Armour, Ready for Inspection - Armour, Real Armour, Armour Chat, large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above), Kits, Armoured Fighting Vehicle Reviews, Aftermarket, Diorama & Accessory and Reference Material and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Das Abteilung

    Interesting mud weathering technique

    I use the Vallejo Environment Mud and Grass shown here without mixing it with anything, but I do dust it over with pigments afterwards while it's still damp. I haven't tried making blobs like this: I tend to use it for more liberal mudding. I haven't seen that particular Vallejo Earth stuff, but the other similar products I've looked at all seem to look more like sand in paint than anything else.
  3. Steve_farrier

    Br52 steam loco

    Evening guys. I recently started the finer detailing and oil washes. This kits got some fiddley pieces which are vunrable to snapping off when trying to hold such a weighty build.
  4. Pete in Lincs

    Famo tilt/cover

    Wire hoops, tissue paper and thinned white glue. It takes a little practice and patience but has a good end result. Once dry, it will be hard and easy to paint.
  5. 917t Japanese Truck (Yokohama Cab) 1:72 IBG Models (71060) The G917T was a compact truck designed by Ford and manufactured around the world in the 1930s and 40s. The British version was known as the Fordson E88. A version of the truck apparently made its way into production in Japan, albeit with a redesigned cab, where it was known as the Model 81 3 ton truck. The truck was generally powered by a 3.6 litre V8 petrol engine which developed between 75 and 90hp. Four-wheel-drive versions were also developed for military use. IBG Models have built up quite a reputation with their range of excellent kits. The quality of casting and detail easily rivals Revell at their best, but more often than not, extras such as photo etched parts are also included. This new truck is a based on the German 917T truck that I reviewed recently, but it is nevertheless a very welcome addition to the range. It arrives packed into a top-opening box about twice the size it needs to be (I've noticed that IBG Models always us the same sized box regardless of the model) inside which are five frames of crisply moulded grey plastic, a frame of clear parts, a small fret of photo etched details and a small decal sheet. The plastic parts are crisply moulded and well detailed. Construction starts with the engine. This comprises eight parts, including a photo etched brass fan. This is quite something to behold for a kit in this scale and at this price point. The axles, drive shaft and brake assemblies are also assembled and fitted to the ladder chassis at this stage. Photo etched parts are used for some of the finer details such as the tow hooks. The radiator and wheels must be added before work on the body can begin. Both are well-detailed and the tyres are moulded onto the wheel hubs. The cab is nice detailed and includes a two-part bench seat, a steering wheel with separate column, a gear stick and handbrake. A neat little crew figure is also included. Two rifles are provided, and these fit to the rear wall of the cab. The roof and doors are moulded as separate parts and the latter are designed in such a way that they can be fixed in place in either open or closed position. The front part of the body is made up of a bonnet, two sides and the separate front wings. The bonnet is not designed to be finished in the open position. The rear of the truck is a simple wooden-sided flat load area. Unlike the Wehrmacht version of the kit, there is no option for a tarpaulin cover. Finishing touches include a small tool box and a photo etched part that folds up into a box to hold two clear plastic water bottles. If you want to load the truck fully however, you'll need to turn to aftermarket producers for help. The decal sheet provides for a single colour scheme appropriate for trucks based in China between 1940 and 1945. You can change the plate and other identification numbers in order to add a bit of variety, however. Conclusion I really enjoy reviewing IBG's kits and it's great to see them address the paucity of Japanese softskin vehicles with this handy truck. It's curious that IBG Models always include crew figures with their kits of Japanese subjects, but not with any other kits. Presumably this is because of some form of tie-up with a Japanese company and this is an additional requirement. Whatever, it's a nice touch and it very welcome. Overall, this kit can be highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Das Abteilung

    Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    I'm trying to put together the unditching beams, but I'm having a little trouble working out the track attachments, There are no clear photos and none of the surviving tanks have them as far as I can see. This photo shows the basic configuration. Larger chain for the stem of the Y with a shackle at each end. Smaller chain for the arms of the Y with a ring in the centre to attach the shackle. That chain was not large enough to go over the shackle. This is all easily done, but I'll need to cut the kit plastic shackles to slip the chains over. It is usually overlooked that 2 different chain sizes were used. But as this picture of the beam on the Bovington MkIX shows, a special one-piece attachment was later used to join the Y. The track attachments are not entirely clear, nor the method of attaching the chain to them. The kit etched brass attachments are very weedy, certainly by comparison with the - probably overscale - grousers. They scale out at 1/5": too thin. I imagine they were at least 3/8" if not 1/2" plate as they would be subject to considerable stress in use. They must also have had a loose end to facilitate attachment to the tracks, like the grousers. So I'm thinking I'll make some new ones from spare grousers. How the chains attached to the track plate piece is trickier. They do seem to attach to some sort of loop or ring at the end, but how exactly? You can't cut high-tensile chain links and re-join them, then or now. Shackles are commonly used, but I can't see one. Another method is a hammer link, pictured below, but I can't find out if these were around in WW1 times. This was basically a 2-piece chain link (or is it a double shackle?) joined with a hammered-in pin. The last (and worst) option is to loop the chain through an eye or similar and then bolt the links together. Remember, there was no welding back then. The only options for joining metal were riveting or bolting, or hot-forging and hammering - which would destroy the strength of a chain even if it were practical for that use. 'tis a conundrum.............
  7. Thank you very much Hairtrigger! Kind regards, Stix
  8. Army_Air_Force

    A few Military Vehicles from the 2018 Show Season

    Now I'm into my winter maintenance, starting yesterday with a sticking starter pinion gear. The starter is at the bottom of the engine bay, under the batteries and voltage regulator. Today was all the wheels off for re-greasing the bearings and checking the brake show thickness. Since the garage is a bit of a squeeze to work on the Jeeps when they are both in there, I pulled the Jeep onto the drive. It was dry, partially sunny and not too cold, so it wasn't too bad working outside. At least I had plenty of natural light.
  9. Peter Marshall

    M4A1 Sherman

    Today's work - first an ochre filter over everything Then painting the rubber track and wheels / idlers Finally a coat of satin varnish over the top before starting weathering and assembly Peter
  10. Very nice result
  11. Just a quick reminder that this STGB starts in exactly 4 weeks from today!! We have 50+ people signed up already but it would still be great to have more people on board! Kind regards, Stix
  12. Retired Bob

    1/35 Hobby Boss Tiger II

    Hi all I have a stack of Dragon KT's in my stash so I do not think I will be buying anymore, but I will be watching with interest to see how it compares. Bob
  13. Hi riever49 and thank you very much for your comments. Yes they are a bit too neat and tidy - perhaps, like you suggest - they haven't had to use them yet and have been well looked after! Kind regards, Stix
  14. No, never been in such locations, only saw them on pics. Besides T-34, there were others too. In the mid 80ies our army bought about 300 Dutch Centurions. Afterwards they realized that a modification/modernization would be too expensive. So the turrets were also used for so called "FAn, Feste Anlagen". Also turrets from decomissioned M24 and M47, Charioteers and other guns were used for such installations. here´s the last such T-34 that was dug out in 2007 http://www.bundesheer.at/cms/artikel.php?ID=3655 google for "bundesheer feste anlagen" then you find a lot of pics from our cold war relics
  15. *quickly scuttles over and registers at Landships II* - why yes of course I am a member The Dorset coast is lovely if that is where you are planning to settle. Good luck and all that! Thanks again.
  16. bigfoot

    Churchill markings

    Thanks, I’ve seen that link before and got the hard copy of the book but unfortunately doesn’t really talk about the reorganisation of the brigade.
  17. Soeren

    Trumpeter Panther G

    Cool. Please do a build report.
  18. mick

    Trumpeter King Tiger

    great work
  19. the South African

    possible pictures of bofors 40mm handmade model

    We have a very VERY battered old bofors gun of sorts standing around in the unit I do not recall the calibre but it is larger than 40 mm let me know if someone is interested I will gladly take photos and forward it if someone wants to take a splash at building something like it. Regards: Shaun
  20. …and this is just my second showing here (the first was the ZSU-57-2) and this too was for the 60’s NATO vs Warsaw Pact GB. I bought this model years ago and have actually never seen one since for sale. It’s a full resin model made by the French company Terre Modeles in……???? The model wasn’t that bad at all and only needed a couple of things changed to improve it, a new gun barrel plus the front(s) suspension needed to be replaced with something a bit more realistic. But that was it. I had lots of fun with the weathering and made a mess everywhere, but still learning, aircraft are much easier to do. Please enjoy. Model: Terre Modeles 1/35thEBR 75 Tourelle FL 10 Paint: Mr Hobby and Tamiya Acrylics, Model Master Metalizer LacquerExtras: DEF.Model CN 75-50 French Cannon Barrel set
  21. Last week
  22. The first 120+ frame holes drilled. Mostly bolt head outside + nut inside (sometimes reversed however), therefore for each hole=2 bolts/nuts-240/side i.e. 440 in total for both frame sides that could be added now. I glued both frame parts together with scotch tape and as such it looks ugly and filthy^^. As soon as the last holes are drilled, I will remove the scotch tape, clean the parts and then smooth it all and add the bolts n nuts. Sizes vary between .6 and 1.4mm, most are 1.2mm. I wish there was a miniature bolting machine, I want one! However... I have the amount of holes marked on this list and on the respective parts... so another 220 missing. Then I will need to drill and rivet up all the frame interiors... And then: These guys up top... The ones below on the right are parts of the ash pan and were mostly welded and the left bottom parts are exterior frame parts included above already. In total about 3200 (if I would add all interior ones and for the housing and so forth, which I won't), I'll have 1500-1800 in the end I think. /Stefan
  23. badger

    Some new 1/72 'Fly Swatters' (& More) from Modelcollect

    Ooh - scud would be cool. Rather like the transporter as well. Expensive time to be a braille scale modeller! All the best Ben
  24. Bullbasket

    El Alamein Sherman.

    Thanks Mike. I appreciate the comments from someone such as yourself. It's nice to know that I got it right. Thanks again. John.
  25. Nice conversion Ian and paint job. I picked this up at Telford last weekend. Looks like a nice kit. John.
  26. Chrissy_J

    Afrika Korps Kubelwagen

    You should be very pleased with your work, Mike. Excellent job! Welcome back to the hobby, as well.
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