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  2. What does Revell offer us: I understandably have to make the ACMI-Pod myself, but the enclosed AIM-9L fits perfectly; it has about the correct length and the securing clips are also correct. So that's a good basis. The IRIS-T is actually really nice, but again a little rough in the execution. There is a little mistake, but it shouldn't be a big deal. The wave guide antenna should actually be exactly opposite the guide / fuse with which the missile is fixed in the launcher rail. On the kit, it is only one compartment to the left. The antenna has thus to be lowered and readjusted in the right place. The butt is a little poorly detailed, but with a small drill and careful sanding a lot is possible. At the very front there are two reinforcements on either side of the warhead; I guess that's either an antenna or a GPS element?! Eventually, I will probably sand the Finns a little thinner.
  3. Aye up John. Nice job! Your clearing the shelf queens at a fair old rate! Regards, Steve
  4. Hi Stix, Looks like progress will not be hampered as I have just received the following. Now THAT'S service Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you for your email, Further to your communication reference *xxxxxx*** we can confirm your spares order has been sent today. Should you require any further information please do not hesitate to contact us at this email address. Kind regards Hornby Hobbies Spares Team
  5. If you Google YB-29 Hobo Queen it’ll throw up some pictures including one in colour. Long dormant brain cells seem to suggest that initially at least, 3 blade props were used. No doubt someone with better knowledge will be along soon.......! Trevor Edit / Ding Hao is another OD machine that has a few snaps taken of it
  6. After a bit more fettling with files and emery boards I think it looks quite decent, just needs another bit of silver paint and its good to fit. I think I might be getting the hang of this modelling by the time I am 123 years old I should be as good as the experts Original on the sprue IMG_20200129_123034096 by Stuart, on Flickr After fettling IMG_20200129_122935557 by Stuart, on Flickr
  7. Xtreme Metal and True Metal are different products, True Metal is probably better if you don't have an airbrush because you can just rub it on with a cloth. Also I wouldn't recommened using Model Hobbies. There are good sells out there that have it available like - https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/product-category/ak-interactive/ak-interactive-ak-interactive-oils/
  8. A Falklands GR3 would be semi gloss or matt, so I'd go for a satin or a matt finish. The T4N would probably be matt, and the GR9 would definitely be matt (albeit with a glossy tail as the disbandment schemes were applied shortly before the aircraft was withdrawn from service).
  9. There are some very nice French Helldivers being towed across the US/Canadian border in thos archives. John
  10. eBay fodder but going for 50 quid and upwards.
  11. Found this old theme, as I intend to make a MiG-15 in Hungarian colours, which indeed look similar to those used in Korean war. I wonder whether they just used WWII stocks of AMT colours for bombers... At least they had light blue, tan and dark green colours there...
  12. The Ghost Tiger didn't really carry anything significant in terms of payload during its time; only the one or other IRIS-T and occasionally an ACMI pod. It shouldn't really get any more for me on the model.
  13. Sooooo .... one more time then. Not much happening today though. Two little things: The formation flight light under the canopy should actually be raised. Revell only offers a Decal for this. The little hoods on each side of the fin are a bit too narrow and unfortunately have no opening. Plus, the small reinforcement on which they should be resting is missing. For the formation flight light, I stuck a little thicker Tamiya tape on my worktop, painted it with the TPS gray, cut strips of the appropriate dimension and then put the actual formation flight lights on these again. I made the hoods out of small pieces of metal, glued them to a trimmed Tamiyatape and treated them with primer. The whole bundle won't be put on the jet until after painting.
  14. I am working on a Danish Fokker DXXI prototype with a pair of Madsen 20mm cannon mounted underwing in pods. The kits resin barrels are horrible and I cant find anything aftermarket on Google, not surprising really its not a common kit and it wasnt a common gun in its day. How can I make the barrels preferably in Brass for sturdiness they dont need to be dead scale just something that looks the part.
  15. That's encouraging, what's the kit you're building? Shout up if you have any more queries - better still, start a build thread in the appropriate section, it would be good to see more paper models on here.
  16. The CP kit will be easier to get than the Hasegawa, it's been OOP for some time now I think. Might even be cheaper as well.
  17. All I know is the recovery group are very professional. They have been doing this sort of work for over 40 years.
  18. Don't want to be the prophet of doom but I started this model a few years back and got roughly to where you are at now before the whole thing came to crushing halt. Things started to unravel for me when I came to do the tracks. I found that because of the sand shields the tracks really had to be assembled and attached to the model before final construction and painting. The problem was that the contact points between each track link is so minute that with the inevitable handling of the model the tracks literally exploded into many individual segments that could not be placed back together again. There may be aftermarket replacements available now but at the point I built this model I could find nothing. If you can get the kit tracks to work then you are a better man than me. My kit ended up in the bin.
  19. Hi Folks,I'm just starting Airfix's oldie and as someone who can just about do a passable silver finish don't want to risk it on what is now becoming a rare find. Anyway I want to do an early OD scheme but references are scarce,I've put a request in wanted but not holding out much hope of finding decal's (I know Iliad did a sheet) but as these early aircraft seem to be pretty anonymous with just stars n bars and a serial which I might be able to cobble together so any sites or photo's would be appreciated.
  20. There was a batch built on the 1943 build T-34 so Unimodel are OK on that. They can be a bit clunky with oversized pour stubs etc. but I've built several aircraft and they all build well with a little care, the plastic glues nicely, and they are cheap as chips. I've got two of their Bf109G kits to make a zwilling and the extra armament set which my brother paid 12USD for in 2016. Holds up pretty well against better known brands. I'd certainly risk a tenner. Tracks were 550mm wide which is 7.24mm in 1/76 or 7.69mm in 1/72. Given the variation in kit design I think you'll be OK to mix scales. The Airfix kit has raised dimples on the rubber tyres these are incorrect, early vehicles has holes in the tyres later on plain tyres were used. IIRC the Airfix kit has the squared off mudguards which are extremely rare on WW2 vehicles. However they do work for a North Korean T34-76 or a post-war rebuilt vehicle (although mostly these were the 1943 hex turret type). The T35/76 version is nearest to a 1942 production tank which is no surprise as that's Bovingdon's pedigree too. Just to confuse the issue further some 1942-43 tanks had narrower 500mm tracks fitted. (Isn't this fun?) For the 76mm gun types the best reference is Mikhail Baryatinskiy's T-34 Medium Tank in Ian Allan's Russian armour series. ISBN 978-071103265-1. The New Vanguard is based on Cold War Era research for the most part and the print on demand versions have poor reproduction. Peter Samsonov has recently written Designing the T-34 (ISBN 9781911658306) which I think is an absolute bargain. Covers the development and history up to the German Invasion very well, some later information, but the photos are the best bit; well chosen, beautifully reproduced on quality paper, some nice shots of the only Pre-War T-34 left, and even a shot of the T-34/57 (a common one but very well reproduced).
  21. Tried to write a response, but I'm missing the perfect words. So leave it to...WOOOOOW!!
  22. Cracking job sir you should be well chuffed with the final results great model and display beefy
  23. Very nice. Why not at least strip it for spare parts? Sad to see it go.
  24. I started this build several years ago, and it has been languishing on the shelf of doom, glaring at me ever since. So Having already completed another SQ (Centaur), I thought, why not get on and finish this one too. There is no real WIP ,just a page of updates, as I built this long before I joined BM. I'll get around to making a base someday, but for now I've added a couple of figures which are old Tamiya ones from the Cromwell, suitably modified and given Hornet heads and wiring for their radios. Anyway, I hope that you like it. I'm reasonably satisfied with it. The basic history of this build can be found here; Thanks for looking. John.
  25. Gidday Stu, 1/200 scale and rigging is out of my league, but there is a build happening now in maritime wip. You might get some tips there. Regards, Jeff.
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