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Jaguar E-Type Roadster (07687) 1:24


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Jaguar E-Type Roadster (07687)

1:24 Revell




The E-Type is perhaps Jaguar’s best-known type, and was one of their most successful too.  Based on, but very different from their D-Type racer, it introduced a number of modern features that we take for granted today, such as a monocoque-type body that removed the weight and bulk of a ladder-chassis, adding disc brakes, a powerful engine, and a modern steering rack that gave the driver excellent feedback on which to judge their performance.  It was beloved by purchasers, and even competitors, one of whom rated it as the most beautiful car ever made.  It retained its popularity through the years and there are still many examples on the road, and even a replica that costs many hundreds of thousands more than the original - go figure.  It was in production from 1961 to ’75, known as the XK-E in the USA, and was available first overseas, with Roadster and coupé versions, a choice of engines, fit and finish, and the occasional special edition throughout the Series, which extended from 1 to 3 with over 72,000 made before it was replaced by the “Marmite” XJ-S that polarised Jag lovers, although time seems to have softened the opinions of those that disliked it initially, as did the improvements over the years before it too was replaced by the soap-bar shaped XK8.


I think everyone's had this conversation either internally, or with friends so far, but WHAT is 1990's Sean Bean doing in a Jag with 1960s Emma Peel?  And Lassie???? Whatever the motivation, Sean's looking righteously very pleased with himself, but really should be paying more attention to the road , and ensuring he doesn't knock lassie into the well. :owww:


The Kit

This is a partial re-rool of a brand-new kit from Revell adapted to make the Roadster version, which will appeal to many an already aching wallet.  It arrives in an end-opening box, and inside are two sprues in light grey styrene, one in a mid-brown, two in chrome, two more sprues and two bodyshell parts in an approximation of British Racing Green, two clear sprues, four flexible black “rubber” tyres, a decal sheet, instruction booklet and a helpful safety sheet to recycle.  It’s a colourful model even before you get your paintbrush out, and while some of you folks might not like the chrome out of the box, we’re not all perfectionists, and it can be removed pretty easily using oven cleaner.  Better yet, the novice modeller can build the kit without paint, and still have most things a decent colour once complete, so it’s not just a gimmick.


It’s a thoroughly modern tooling, but there are a few ejection marks that you might want to cover up if you’re putting the effort in under the bonnet for example.  The new bodyshell is just the rear section, as the immense bonnet is the same for both types, but of course it’s all in green this time, rather than red.  There are also a few tiny sink-marks here and there too, with a pair of incredibly shallow ones on the bonnet where the hinge-point mounts are, so get to work on those before you start building in earnest so that they don’t bite you later.  The deployed fabric hood also has a few very shallow ejector-pin marks too, which should be easy to hide, as the fold texture extends to the inner surface too.












Construction begins with the engine block, which comes as two halves with the transmission moulded in, and has the sump and rocker cover added, then the ancillaries, fan-belt, and the exhaust manifold with six-into-two downpipes.  At the rear is a differential, drive-shafts and suspension-link, bookended front & rear by a pair of formers.  The suspension units either side of the differential are covered by the lower swing-arms, then it’s time for the twin exhausts and their mufflers to be made up to be added under the chassis once the engine has been popped in between the front rails, so that the manifold and pipes can be mated.  The extensive framework under the bonnet is next, getting painted along the way, then being put to the side while the firewall and front brakes/steering are inserted into the chassis.  A pair of drop-links slip in between the bottom of the brake assembly, gluing into the top of the bonnet framework, then it’s time to fill the bonnet/hood with stuff!  The triple-carbs are fed by the airbox, with a choice of left- and right-hand steering boxes, battery, radiator and a bunch of other little ancillaries that festoon the area.


 Moving back indoors, you can choose the right- or left-hand drive dash, with decals appropriate for each, plus pedal-box and steering-wheel fitted underneath in your choice of positions.  The centre console is made up with a shifter, and a handed hand-brake, so make sure you drill out the correct hole in the underside before you proceed with the gluing.  The two seat areas within the floor are painted a two-tone brown, and are matched with a self-coloured bulkhead piece at the rear of the floor, and a couple of little chrome handles for the ventilation are installed low down in the front of the cab with some decal vents that they operate.  The dash slides in and locates on some pegs and ledges in the floor, then the two door cards are detailed with handles and window-winders, both of which are chromed.  The two seats are each single parts and have nicely moulded cushion details included, although they look strange to modern eyes with the lack of head rests and seat belts.  The passenger has a grab-rail placed across the corner between the dash and the short A-pillar, which differs between the left- and right-hand drive options.


Even a Jag won’t go anywhere on its own without wheels, and these are next to be made up.  The flexible tyres have a cruciform sprue arrangement in the centre that must be cut out with a sharp blade, then in the front the chromed hub and its moulded-in spokes are inserted, which should look good with a dark wash to bring out those spokes.  There’s a separate knock-off hammer-on locking nut as is appropriate for the era, then at the rear is a simple hub with a hole in the centre and a cap that will glue onto the axle, leaving the wheel able to rotate if you’re frugal with the glue.  Revell even supply a decal of the car’s green instruction manual, which you can cut out and leave on one of the seats if you like.  The rear bodyshell is installed onto the chassis first, joined by the chromed windscreen surround and the glazing panel, adding the chromed rear-view mirror, door handles and sill trim, then more chrome parts with clear inserts make up the rear light clusters, joined by the rear bumper halves and a central clear reversing light, then a pair of chrome bumper overriders, and a choice of EU or US number plate frame.


The E-Type is well-known for its gigantic bonnet, which takes up a large proportion of the front end, and makes pulling out of some junctions a whole heap of fun.  The underpinnings are made up first, with the lights inserted into the front bulkhead, which is then fitted into a frame that holds the bonnet to shape once it is glued in place in the huge panel.  The curved lower is then put in place underneath, and as this is a separate part on the real thing, you can leave the seamline there as it's mostly occluded by the bumpers anyway, unless your references show otherwise.  The choice of colour for the light “tunnel” of body colour, silver or black isn’t mentioned on this variant, so while you have your references out you might want to check that too.  With the paint choice decided, the chrome bezels and clear lenses are glued in, and the indicators join them with chrome bases and clear lenses.  The front bumpers are also fitted as halves, then joined together by adding the central section with moulded-in overriders that hide the join between the three parts.  There is another choice of EU or US numberplate frames, which glue to the lower lip of the oval intake under the bumpers. 


The hood can be depicted raised or lowered by choosing different parts, and both options are fairly simple to make.  The deployed hood is a single moulding with a separate glazing panel that is inserted into the rear from the inside, then the two side windows are fitted into the spaces from the outside if you plan on portraying it with the windows wound up.  For the top-down version, it’s just a single part that slots onto the back of the cockpit via the same three posts as the hood-up version, and although it doesn’t show it, you could always put the side windows in if you wish.  More chrome is added in the shape of wing mirrors with clear lenses, an aerial that is relocated to the wing for the drop-top, and three small windscreen wiper blades.






Many of the supplied decals are used up in the cockpit, providing a comprehensive set of dials and instruments for the interior, a number within the engine bay, and smaller details around the vehicle, including meshes, grilles and stencils.  In general, someone has taken a lot of time and effort to create a set of decals that really drills down into the detail, from filler cap logos to shock absorber badges, alternator shell cut-out patterns and battery filler caps – remember the non-sealed batteries that needed topping up with deionised water from time to time?  The rest of the decals are number plates from various countries, plus a set of generic E-Type plates for showroom examples.  A few “driving abroad” country stickers round out the sheet if you feel the urge to apply one.






There is one colour option shown on the instructions, which is British Racing Green, but you’re at liberty to paint it any colour you like.  Decals are by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas.




This is another modern kit of the wind-in-your-hair version of this classic car, and has plenty of detail moulded-in for the detail hound to finesse and add to.  The decal sheet is excellent, and the consensus seems to be that Revell moulded initially the Roadster front windscreen angle and curve on the coupé that is correct for this version.


Highly recommended.


Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online.




Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit

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One thing to point out, with my E-type anorak on, you only need the "JAGUAR" script for the boot lid. The interior detail for this car isn't correct for the 4.2 Series 1 E-type that was introduced in 1964.  I suspect the gearbox might look different as would other under-bonnet details.  You'd even need a new decal for the gear lever markings as 3.8-etypes with the Moss gearbox had reverse to the left of first gear (and easy to select by mistake).  The 4.2-litre (and 5.3, V12) cars had Jaguar's own gearbox with reverse to the left of second gear (and very difficult to engage with the handbrake on, because both levers want to occupy the same space).  I am nevertheless impressed that the decals extend to the gear lever markings.


None of this has stopped me buying this kit to go with the Revell E-type coupé.

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 28/07/2021 at 16:41, johnlambert said:

One thing to point out, with my E-type anorak on, you only need the "JAGUAR" script for the boot lid. The interior detail for this car isn't correct for the 4.2 Series 1 E-type that was introduced in 1964.  I suspect the gearbox might look different as would other under-bonnet details.


Agreed, however In terms of the gear lever decal, I'd just assume that the Moss box has been ditched in favour of the much better 4.2 one 😉


As with the coupe kit, E Types never had overdrive (it didn't fit in the transmission tunnel - except perhaps if converting (auto) 2+2s?), yet Revell have moulded one on the back of the gearbox...  It's pretty much the same as the one on Tamiya's Jaguar Mk2 but for that car it is correct for a 3.8 MOD.  Unlike the FHC, based on pics I have seen elsewhere, it looks like Revell have got the windscreen right on this OTS though, which is a big relief!


The Revell (& also Heller) E Types are all 3.8 from the interior, but the Gunze is a 4.2 & has the different seats etc, although moulded in a rubberised plastic (vinyl?) rather than normal polystyrene.

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  • 2 years later...

Nice kit but the wheels and tyres look too wide going by the picture.    I believe that Motobitz make correct 3D printed wheels and tyres to replace the kit items.  Besides 1.24th scale I think they also do the wire wheels in 1/32nd and 1/43rd scales too.

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