I have finally (I think ) come to the decision as to which airbrush to pluck for. I've spent quite a while scouring BM and the internet looking into different airbrushes, coming to the conclusion that I should go for the H&S Evo Silverline 2 in 1.

Now, as my first airbrush, is that a wise decision? Or should I choose something a little lower down the market?

The only thing I can't decide upon is whether to buy the fPC version with the 0.15 needle. Keeping in mind that I am a beginner and this is my first airbrush, will it be simpler to use a 0.2 needle? Or seeing as I'm buying one should I just get the 0.15 "just in case" I want to use it...

Could I get some feedback/suggestions/advice please, you wonderful people at Britmodeller ?!!

Apologies for cluttering up the place with my wonderings! Also, here endeth my knowledge in airbrush terminology and abbreviations - yes, it really is that limited! Please be...er...gentle? Understanding? Something along those lines...

*EDIT*
Or have I confused myself with what the fPC actually is and may not need it, as I think I just saw it with the 0.15 or 0.2 needle...erm....please help!

The fPC is an air valve. It works similar to the Mac valve on some other airbrushes. Some find it useful, others don't. I found it very useful on my Iwata HP-CH, but has since started to use a similar valve mounted to my quick connect system instead.

The H&S airbrushes has a large crowd of followers, so I suppose that fit the needs of most users. But as with most things, its a matter of taste.

Yes, that is a major factor, personal preference...for me it just seems the best airbrush in that price range. Would you agree? If not, can you recommend an alternative please? As I said, this will be my first, so the more opinions I get the better! Thanks for clarifying what an fPC is too

If you are, or plan to be a regular airbrush user, I would say that you may well be wiser with a decent reputable airbrush like the Evolution fPc, it's not always the case but I have seen quite a few newer users being well & truly sickened of the whole airbrush deal after purchasing a cheap airbrush with QC issues, or one of older design where cleaning isn't so straightforward.

With regards to the 0.2 / 0.15mm scenario, the output from these two needle/nozzle sets is not that different, both are capable of fine work, the 0.15mm obviously having the edge - but the 0.2mm is the the better of the pair as it can also produce reasonable coverage, which the 0.15mm can't. The 0.15mm set is more particular about the paint being used & can be temperamental with regards to thinning ratio's, usually requiring an increased % of thinner to work well, the 0.15mm needle is also very delicate, much more so than even the 0.2mm.

What might be worth looking at is the paint cup size of the brush you ultimately decide to go for, the "Solo" sets feature a 2ml paint cup which can be slightly limiting - whereas the "2 in 1" sets feature both 2 & 5ml cups.

All being said & done, don't forget that if required you can get extra needle / nozzle sets, various paint cups & fPc valves separately at a later date.

There are as many alternatives as there are brands. Almost every brand has something that would work.
Iwata HP-CS and Grex XG are nice airbrushes in about the same price range as the Evolution.
The before mentioned Iwata HP-CR and the Rich AB-300 at a bit less.
A lot of different airbrushes at a bit more.

Earlier you mentioned pistol trigger airbrushes. I've tested a few, and in my opinion most of them are similar in performance. The reason that I recommend the Grex TG is not only because I sell them, but also because of the improved design. The oversize nozzles are a lot less flimsy than the ones used on the Olympos, Rich, Iwata, Gunze and Grex XT that I've also tried. Here's a picture of a standard nozzle on top, and a Tritum nozzle below.

The fPc valve is a secondary air regulator and is the feature that is fairly expensive to add on at a later date.
This takes the airflow from the compressor and allows you to regulate it from 100 down to 20% of the compressor's output.

It can either be used as a general regulator if the compressor is not to hand, for example on the floor, or to fine tune the airflow when applying details.

The 0.15mm needle/nozzle is slightly finer than the 0.2mm, but which is best depends on the type and scale of subjects you will be painting.

People wanting to achieve fine camo on 1/72 aircraft would have more control from the Evo silverline fPc 2in1 set, if you are doing 1/72 to 1/32nd scale larger area work then the Evo silverline 2in1 will do the job.

There is only about £15 difference in the prices, the fPc valve costs over £30, to add on later. So most of my customers go for the more Evo Silverline fPc 2in1.

I would suggest trying out the brush so you can see if it feels right and so you can see how the fPc valve etc... work.

There is a Model show in Kings Heath on the 15th May, so if you want to have a play with my demo airbrushes, you are more than welcome to.

If this isn't possible and you are around before that drop me a line and I can possibly arrange something for you, my wife has family in the area and visit regularly!

I had honestly been considering the cheaper "copies" after having a look at prices, but was put off it by the reports I have read on here. I would much rather buy something that will do the job properly first time (user allowing) than have to keep replacing something cheap and cheerful - it will end up not so
That is exactly what I wanted to know about the needle size. As you say, I can buy one at a later date, but it probably isn't such a good idea if I'm a total novice at airbrushing to get something too complex.
I don't know how often I would be able to use it, but something quick and easy to clean would be ideal. Thank you for your help




I see what you mean about the nozzles...they do look more substantial and "idiot-proof" as far as someone like I am concerned. Can you add parts to the Grex like you can with the H&S? I think the option of increasing the performance is something I would like to keep open, rather than having to buy another airbrush too soon, depending how I get on (touch wood). I didn't realise I had such a choice...to be honest, I was mainly looking at the H&S and Iwata products as there seemed to be a lot more information easily available, and they came across as more "mainstream" as so many people use them. I am now less decided on which one to go for! But I think that is a good thing - if my mind is more open, then hopefully I'll find the right airbrush by how it feels...Again, I appreciate your help there



Thanks for the explanation. It seems to me that the fPc would be a worthwhile investment earlier on - if it's too much for me to get used to at the beginning I can just not use the feature until I'm more proficient.

I suppose saying what I shall be using it for would be a good idea!! I was planning on using it for 1:72 aircraft. In which case it sounds like the 2in1 would indeed fit the bill. However with the number of brushes out there, you're probably right to suggest trying before buying. I shall have to curb my impatience to get one ordered!
The 15th May...I think I'm back out at work by then - I shall double check my holiday! If I'm home I shall definitely come over. It's not too far from me. But if I'm not then I think I would have to take you up on your offer if you're over my way. Either that or pop down to Milton Keynes. It would suit me fine either way!
Your help has been most enlightening.

No problem, I'm actually between Northampton and Bedford, a little over an hour away from you on a good run....but am always looking for an excuse to leave the wife to organise her parents when we go visiting!

Drop me a PM if you would like to organise something.

I would say that you really should take up Little-Cars-Pauls offer to check the airbrushes in real life. We can discuss their benefits over and over, but in the end it is how it feels in your hand that should decide. All the brands that are mentioned so far are good. Taste and feel will be decisive.

//subjective rant-mode on//

In my most personal opinion, the strenght of H&S is the tech gismos, and how they feel when new. But I've found them to age a bit fast, and loose that smoothness that they have when new. And I have had several customers that has experienced the same thing.
Iwata, Grex, Rich, and my favourite brand, Olympos, on the other hand feels better the more worn they get. I have a couple of almost 25 year old airbrushes that feels great. I have a Rich AB-200 that is so worn that the brass shows through all over, but the action is smoother than ever. Great little airbrush.
So, its a bit like comparing trousers to jeans. H&S is the fancy trousers with creases and stuff. Looks great when new, but might not be aging that well. But who cares when you are having the job interview the next day?
The nice thing about the japanese style airbrushes is that they age well. A bit like your favourite jeans. They felt a bit stiff when new, and you didn't enjoy going out with them in the beginning. But then they just feel and look better all the time. Probably they are absolutly on top just before they start falling into pieces.

//subjective rant mode off//

If you decide on the H&S, I would recommend going with the Evolution Silverline fPC 2 in 1. It's really the best bang for the buck. As Paul says, you will have to pay a lot to get the extras later on, and if you get it from the beginning, you are set for quite some time.

But also remember that some of these things might not be necessary for you. I've been airbrushing for quite a few years, and realize that I havn't used the needle limiter on any of my airbrushes more than a couple of times. If you get a quality airbrush that suites your grip, you will find it easier to draw the thin lines out of feel than any mechanical help. The fPC valve is nice, and if you get a H&S, it is better to get it from the beginning. But you could also get a external Mac-valve like the Grex G-Mac or Iwatas version, and it will fit whatever airbrush you want.

And finally, don't let your airbrush purchase make you spend less on the compressor. If anything, the compressor should have the priority. If you get a good one, it will probably outlast several airbrushes.

That analogy of the trousers and jeans is a brilliant way of putting it. As much as I love wearing a brand new, smart pair of trousers, I prefer getting into my favourite jeans. I hope I shall feel the same over the airbrush I choose...

I shall have to seriously consider the options other than the H&S. My mind is very much open to them now, so thank you for that detailed answer.

The feel of the airbrush shall definitely be the deciding factor, but the limitation to the compressor will be the weight of it. I will need to take it, along with all my other supplies, from the UK back to work (~3500 miles), so it can't be excessively heavy. I'll be able to stretch the budget and invest in a good quality piece of kit, but only if I can get it in my luggage!

I didn't know the external Mac valve was transferable, which is clearly another bonus to the non-H&S route...

Seriously, all of your advice has been fantastic. I feel a lot more confident in what I am looking for, and that it isn't neccessarily a case of the right or wrong airbursh - purely what feels best in the individuals hand. It's very refreshing getting honest opinions about the equipment used in a trade/hobby from the people that actually use it, instead of the sales pitch that can be quite misleading.

So many thanks to denstore, Paul and Jetblast. It is sincerely appreciated.

Thanks. I believe we all aim to please. But remember that we all have our favourites, and even when we try to objective, it colour our opinions.
As for the analogy, I'm a bit pleased with it myself, but...
...there are quite a few fans of the H&S system out there, and if you start checking reviews and threads about them, you will probably find other analogies that might sound just as good. A common one is the one about German cars (H&S) vs Japanese cars (Iwata) vs American cars (Badger and Paasche). Some might find that one to be at least as good as mine.

The compressor might be a problem. Usually the good ones are heavy. You might consider something like the Iwata Silver Jet. It should be OK, but remember that it is limited to airbrushes with lower demands of pressure. Smaller nozzle airbrushes are generally less demanding on air. What kind of models do you build?

Transporting compressors can be a problem, I've had customers that need to transport them, in the past and you may have to compromise a little.

The Silver jet is 3kg in weight, but from what you have said I would personally look at the Iwata Sprint jet or my little-jet compressor (both from the same manufacturer) as they are a little more robust and have a longer duty cycle.

They weight is 3.5-4kg and should fit into a case or backpack without a problem.

Photo on page 16 : http://www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes.pdf

If the difference in weight is as small as a kilo or less, I would definitly go with the little-jet unit. These Sparmax compressors are very good.

just to confuse you, sorry, but if you bought a Grex XN you would never put it down. I have several 'brushes, I keep the XN for acrylic work now, but it will paint anything (much to learn about thinning as different types use different thinner. use Tamiya with IPA and you will have discovered magic. I used enamel exclusively 'till recently, still do, it's just whatever suits you. one other point about buying an airbrush because it's easy to clean; Azteks always used to sell because they were easy to clean, but I replaced mine, eventually, with a very cheap airbrush (which I still use) and never looked back. don't fret too much which you buy, just practice LOTS!!!

He got on well with the H&S Evolution, so I guess he's at home practicing....

Hello Mr Littlecars, just wanted to thank you for the H&S Ultra you sold me at Telford; very nice I have to say! I have too many airbrushes already but I don't think too many are ever enough! when I started modelling again a few years back there were 2 things I could still do no better than when I was a youngster: paint and apply transfers (child of the 60s). airbrushes (VERY crude Badger with the plastic handle and glass jar to start with) and Johnsons Klear solved that. the Klear has remained unchanged (several bottles in stock) but the airbrushes have improved somewhat. many thanks again JD

I wish I was at home practicing!! I'm away at work, and have a tiny amount of space, with an ultra sensitive smoke alarm above my head...so my sessions are very short and sweet! (ish) Still, looking forward to getting home and getting some bigger sessions in...

Thanks Paul, it is an awesome bit of kit. Took a little getting used to, and I still make the odd error with paint:thinner ratio, but I normally get that sorted after a couple of attempts The flow retarder was much appreciated too

hopefully tonight i will put up some images of my first ever aibrushed kits, both 72nd. first one i used bluetak for edging but the 2nd one a SU22 totally freehand....lots of praticing and getting used to thinning paints. its a 16.50 airbrush i got the other week, and it was just in my price range at the mo. a good compressor is what i need next, as its on/off only. and thats it (just cut out while i was cleaning out the airbrush lol)

this is the airbrush i got. learnt a lot about throttle down and back and getting used to it but we all have to start somewhere
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=370455752592

Can't go wrong with Harder & Steenbeck .... I've got the Infinity 2 in 1 and absolutely love it



Regards Simon

i really cant wait until i can afford a H&S, it will be my first choice, def wont get a american brand or US made one.