Count me in, the Roden 1/48 SE5A Wolseley Viper version, kit ordered via Bill, prepare yourselves for a laugh, but I'll try my best.

You ain't seen mine yet....

Welcome to the build Pete. Looking forward to see how you do with that one.

Cheers,

Nick

Yeh, fine, but I'm gonna need some help, this is my first venture in to "the dark side of the force"

Ok, 'ere we go, help required, as regards Enamels, what are the best colours for Olive Drab and Clear Doped Linen

Hi
That olive drab would be Pc 12, just another paint my friend.

"Some home mixing experiments followed and I settled on Humbrol Matt Ochre 83, Matt Light Olive 86 and Gloss Clear 35. The purpose of the clear varnish in the mix was to give the paint a semi-gloss finish, instead of the flat look of other paints in the mixture. When painting, I always thin out the paint just a little "too much" to get the right see-through effect."
This text comes from this article.
Close up on DH-2

Accually it´s my way of doing Pc10. To get the 12 just add some red to it. That will give you a more red/brown tone.

good luck mate
Lars Q

Looks as though the Olive Drab problem is solved, I've got some old tins of Xtracolor, X154, FS14091, Dark Drab, this seems to be the same colour as they have used on the replica of Maybe.

the misterkitusa.com site offers some colour chips which might help mixing.

Cheers mate, I'll have a look

The Part photo etch add on arrived yesterday, to say it's mind blowing is an understatement, what have I done???

This is what it looks like.



This is actual size.



Wish me luck.

bloody hell Pete, you'll need to order a new set of eyeballs too by the time you've done that!

"Good luck"

Mind you, you must have balls of brass to work with all that etch.

Phew!

Can you imagine if one of these bits falls on the carpet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yep... and can imagine you laying on the carpet with a magnifying glass looking for it too. We must have all had practice at doing that by now

Do the same as I did Pete - get rid of the carpet monster, rip up the Axminster and put ceramic tiles down, makes it much easier to find the part.

I think with the size of some of these bits I'll need a metal detector.

Make sure you hold the part NOT the fret while cutting (easier to find an airborne fret). Alternatively attach a ball of blu-tack to the part while cutting so it's less aerodynamic!

Steve (who learnt the hard way).

Back the fret with a piece of masking tape. Nothing should fly away then

Thanks for the tips guys, anyways up, we're up and running kit arrived this morning, many thanks again Bill.

The obligatory box photie and PE frets



Wish me luck.

good luck to you mate, I´ll follow you work, and I´m glad that I´m not in this combat
Lars

Cheers Jay, anything you may want to know, just ask and I'll try and help.

We progress, my God the PE is a kit in itself.

Looks like pretty fine work so far Pete, I'll be watching this one with interest.

Wow Pete, I'm well impressed already!

Has it made your eyes yet?

Eyes , brain , hands and I've only just started.

Don't forget this baby has only got 2/3 the wingspan of my 1/72 Mossie and it's 1/48.

Good start my friend, now´s the rest to deal with....

Lars Q

Don't rub it in Lars, thats whats worrying me.

I have every confidence in you Pete!

OK guys looking for suggestions here, a great deal of these PE parts are so small it's unbelievable, also you require 2 or 3 parts to make up eg. the control column, dials etc. obviously CA is out of the question, cos before you could get them positioned correctly it will have gone off, I was thinking of either Klear or perhaps varnish to stick them together, what do you think?

You must have the patience of saint with all that PE - respect!

Who put the PE in Pete?

Me in a moment of insanity.

Klear is great for assembling the instrument panel 'sandwiches' that you sometimes get with etched sets, but for metal on metal I'm not so sure. Probably ok for dials which just have to sit there, but depending on how the column goes together it may not be suitable as it will have no real strength if the contact area is small. How about slow setting (30 second) superglue - Slo-Zap I think it's called, or 5 minute epoxy (not tried the latter yet though). You probably know, but if it has enough flat surface area normal superglue will bond etch instantly giving no 'wriggle room' (hence my stealth pilot will have to tilt his head slightly to look through his HUD!!)

A trick I picked up recently is to use a small blob of blu-tack on a cocktail stick for handling and positioning tiny parts. Worked a treat for positioning the vents on my Stealth, just don't get glue on the 'tack as it bonds like a bugger (won't showing any pics of that particular vent!).

Looking great so far, etch can be a right pain, but the results, as you are showing are well worth the effort .

Steve.

Cheers Steve, at the moment I'm trying matt varnish, to see how that bonds, lets hope it sticks ok.

Neat job with the PE so far.

Klear is OK, but the bond doesn't take kindly to knocking about. Like Steve I would recommend the Blu-Tac on a cocktail stick for holding the small bits and a slowish setting CA.

I must admit I find PE one of those mood things. If I am in the mood, I can do it, otherwise it appears impossible and I have to walk away.

Good luck

Grant

It looks as though the matt varnish route seems to be working ok at the moment, I'm already using the blutac on the cocktail stick method for positioning, so lets see how things go!!!!!