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Sd.Kfz. 186 JagdTiger Henschel Dragon 1/35


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After building the Sd.Kfz.222 to take a rest, let's get on tracks!

A big box, with everything needed to make a good kit OOB.

Review on PMMS

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I still don't know which tank I'll make, but anyway, it will be west front, germany 1945, as they never served on the East front, even if they were designed to.

I'd like to make a little dio, maybe with a TC scanning the horizon, or a deserted machine, with a GI approaching?

By the way, if you've some idea about the figurine, let me know.

salut.gif

Edited by Antoine
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photo_12.jpg

Building the running gear, step by step:

- Build all the wheels/Idler wheel/Drive sprockets.

- Glue in place the front and rear wheel axle of each side, and let them dry.

- Prepare the tracks. Each track must be in two elements. Don't glue anything yet. Put each element on tamiya tape, as shown on the post above.

- Then glue the wheels in place, with a very thin glue (Like tamiya's), that'll give you some time to work.

Note: Just tell me f you don't understand, or don't hesitate to correct me, as I'm not really sure of all those technical words...

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photo_13.jpg

- Before the glue on the wheel's axle dry, put one track element under the wheels.

- I wanted a "live" suspension, so I've put an old brush handle under the track.

- Then make sure that all the wheels are touching the tracks.

- Then put some consequent weight on the hull, and let dry.

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photo_14.jpg

The wheel's glue is dry, then you have to give the tracks their shape.

- As I've said before, each track is made of two elements, and I work with only one element at a time.

- Each element is down on the bench, as shown on the second post (Not as above, as I've taken the pics after all the work...).

- Again with some thin glue, fix together all the tracks parts (The name, please...).

- Then put the element on the wheels, and give it his shape, or sagging. Make sure that the track touch the wheel on each side where the suspension is compressed.

- Same with the second element. Make sure not to glue the two elements together, not yet.

- Let it dry, still with the weight on the hull. Make sure not to work to early on the other track, or be very careful.

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photo_15.jpg

Everything is dry.

I'll not strip off the tape till I start to paint the tracks.

I'll then check if there's no need for a little cleaning, or even sanding, bearing in mind that the tracks are still very fragile.

The tracks will then be painted, and glued in place AFTER the hull is also painted.

Drive sprocket and idler wheel will be painted separately, but can also be painted while temporary glued to the hull with a very small drop of glue, so that they can be removed easily after.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've worked a little:

photo10.jpg

I've simply followed the instruction sheet + a few little things:

- Added the power cable for the notek (Copper wire).

- Removed the left fender.

- Made three fender hinge (Aluminium from a cottage cheese can!!!), with the rod (Copper wire).

And that's all.

Some difficulties with:

- the juncture between the upper and lower part of the hull, in front and behind. Behind, in fact, there's gap that I had to fill with putty

- There are about 20 photo etched part figuring the fasteners running all around the upper part of the hull (Must be there to attach a tarpaulin, or the camo net). These parts are much smaller, to much for me in fact, without speaking of gluing them with cyano... So I just leaved them alone.

Edited by Antoine
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I really appreciate the track walkthrough. It's one of the things I dread when it comes to modern kits. :thumbsup:

Kyrre

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It was exactly the same for me before this build, Kyrre.

I've never seen it clearly explained in any publication or on the net before.

Then I saw this thread on another forum, where I found everything I've wanted to know.

So I've just tried to duplicate this technique here.

Glad it can help.

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A little update

photo_17.jpg

- I've choosed to paint the tracks aside. Only the base coat for the moment.

X9 tamiya

e295b809fbf2b68e17980e27378d7bf9.gif

- To avoid difficulties, all the low part of the hull, with the wheels, is painted RAL 7028 dunkelgelb (Lifecolor).

- the tools are painted wood brown (Well, some kind of brown at least!!!), the MG is gloss black, and the jack dunkelgelb.

I'll paint the details later, and will do a little weathering before fixing everything on the hull. Then I'll "weather" everything (Filter, drybrush, pigments, etc...).

photo_18.jpg

Little details:

- The drive sprockets are glued (Cyano) on the tracks.

- The wheels are full metal, so the side (Don't know the word in english) is painted alu.

See you next time.

salut.gif

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Antoine, great work so far :goodjob:

Thanks for the procedure on how to construct the tracks. I have the Revell boxing of this on the bench and was trying to figure out how to do my tracks. :speak_cool:

... tracks parts (The name, please...).

The name you are after here is track links.

... side (Don't know the word in english) is painted alu.

The name you are after here is rim.

HTH

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The tracks are in place!

photo_19.jpg

photo_20.jpg

As you may have noticed, everything didn't happen as planned...

The part of the track that was intended to cover the idle wheel got a wrong curve, it was "floatting" over the wheel.

Maybe I didn't let it dry properly, I don't know.

Trying to correct that by removing five to six track links (Thanks Andy!), I've broken one of them, so I choosed instead to build another clean portion, which was then glued with cyano:

photo_21.jpg

So I'll have a little more work, masking and retouching that part of the track, before going on to the main paint work on the hull.

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At the moment, I'm wondering about the pre-shading...

I've kept the dunkelgelb coat very thin to be able to notice the gray under.

Very thin, nearly too thin.

I'll put another coat of DG, without care for the pre-shading.

I'll play instead with different shades of each colors of the camo, then see how it looks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After studying my documentation, I've choosed to go for a machine from 2./sPzJgAbt. 653. The camo is based on one seen on another machine from 1. Kompanie, made of wide vertical bands of rotbraun and olivgrün over dunkelgelb.

Comparing the number of JT who have seen service life, and the number of camo applied, I think that I'm not so far from the truth.

A little bit more masking:

photo_24.jpg

Then a few band of rotbraun:

photo_25.jpg

And last, the olivgrün:

photo_26.jpg

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