Faceplate Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 I know this doesn't belong here but I'm not getting anything in the paint thread so ...help? Can I airbrush Tamiya acrylics without the thinner or do they need thinning? If they need thinning what is the ratio of paint to thinner? And on an unrelated note; if anyone here has ever decanted Tamiya spray lacquers, how long have you let them degas? I read an article on their website that was a bit disturbing about this. Any input would be great as I'm in a hold pattern until I can figure theses ?'s out. Thanks! Dug
denstore Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 I usually mix Tamiya at about 50/50. Works just fine. To airbrush them without thinner wouldn't be recommended, I think. About decanting I cannot say, but I think that the problem of degassing is mostly if you use an airtight can or a siphon feed airbrush. If you use open cans and a gravity fed airbrush, there should be no problem.
Alan Kelley Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 I always mix about 3 parts Tamiya X-20A to 1 part paint. Having said that, I have had fragility issues with my paint recently so might change that.
denstore Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 I always mix about 3 parts Tamiya X-20A to 1 part paint. Having said that, I have had fragility issues with my paint recentlyso might change that. I would say that a 3 to 1 mixture is a bit dangerous. Most paints can't take that much thinning, because the binder gets to disolved.
gcn Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 50|50 P|T is a good place to start. Use either their own brand thinner or Cellulose Thinner. as for decanting here
Faceplate Posted February 8, 2010 Author Posted February 8, 2010 Hey thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it! Especially since someone at another website saw it fit to lecture me on my choice of paint! WTF is that all about?! Ask a question, get lectured on my poor taste. That's awesome. Anyway, sorry 'bout the rant. Thanks again! Dug
Jennings Heilig Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 People seem to get really wound around the axle about mixing ratios. I've been using an airbrush for nigh on 35 years, and I've never once measured anything I've put in it. You put some paint in the cup, then squirt in some thinner. Test spray. If it's too thick, add more thinner. If it's too thin, add some more paint. About 9 times out of 10 my 'squirt' is just about right, based on having been doing this for so long. It just takes a bit of practice. Trying to accurately measure anything that goes into an airbrush cup is an exercise in futility to my way of thinking. It's not necessary either... J
Chaotic Mike Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 I know this doesn't belong here but I'm not getting anything in the paint thread so ...help? Can I airbrush Tamiya acrylics without the thinner or do they need thinning? If they need thinning what is the ratio of paint to thinner? And on an unrelated note; if anyone here has ever decanted Tamiya spray lacquers, how long have you let them degas? I read an article on their website that was a bit disturbing about this. Any input would be great as I'm in a hold pattern until I can figure theses ?'s out. Thanks!Dug ...And FWIW, I have very successfully sprayed Tamiya acrylic without thinning it. Probably better to do so, though... it'll go further! Mike
buccymad Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 how strange you should ask such a question........ as I,for the first time ever sprayed tamia x4 (royal blue?) for the first time tonight! tried it on test piece .didnt go well at all,it was like orange peel,clogged up the brush ,splattered everywhere,then.... i thinned it by about 60/40 thinners to paint ,all problems dissapeared.it went on in a flawless finish ,dried quicker than a quick thing ,and was touch dry in about five minutes!! and it cleaned up easily as well,used up a lot of thinners though,but well worth it .well chuffed one big blue phantom inbound!!
Dave100TR Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 People seem to get really wound around the axle about mixing ratios. I've been using an airbrush for nigh on 35 years, and I've never once measured anything I've put in it. You put some paint in the cup, then squirt in some thinner. Test spray. If it's too thick, add more thinner. If it's too thin, add some more paint. About 9 times out of 10 my 'squirt' is just about right, based on having been doing this for so long. It just takes a bit of practice. Trying to accurately measure anything that goes into an airbrush cup is an exercise in futility to my way of thinking. It's not necessary either... J I agree. I don't worry too much about the exact ratio either but do exactly this - a bit of thinner, some paint, try it - thin it some more if necessary! Actually, I'm a bit more scientific than that. I use a paintbrush to add thinner & paint to the cup of my Iwata. I always use the same brush and usually add a brushful or two of thinner and then two or three brushfuls of paint and mix it well in the cup. I then try it and add more thinner or paint as needed. Using the same brush (washed out each time of course!) gives me a pretty consistent means of measuring. The mix also depends on what pressure I'm spraying at - thinner at lower pressure for instance. Also, I use Tamiya acrylics where possible. In my opinion they are some of the best paints to spray. The only problem is their colour range doesn't really match any real standard (some exceptions and they have brought out new colours for the Spitfire of course) - but I think the paint is terrific. I also have a (dwindling) stash of Aeromaster acrylics which are even better!! On the subject of brands, anyone out there used Lifecolour? What's that like? Dave
Andy Mullen Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 ... And on an unrelated note; if anyone here has ever decanted Tamiya spray lacquers, how long have you let them degas? I have used the decant method on this build... after decanting I couldn't wait and started spraying and everything went OK until the paint pot detached, fell on the bench and then erupted everywhere, fortunately not on the model. After cleaning up I continued with no other problems. I tried it again about a year later, and left it to sit for about 8 hours after decanting. When I tried to to make it explode as before, it wouldn't. Hope this helps
Faceplate Posted February 9, 2010 Author Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks for all the replies guys, tremendously helpful! The main reason I was looking for advice was 'cuz I was hoping to cut down on my trial and error phase. I've never actually sat down and measured my ratios either, but it's nice to get an overall consensus of who does what. I'm glad I asked because, as I am MM guy, I might have tried the MM ratios, which as it turns out would not be so good. So, off the paintroom, (read: bathroom!) to lay down the base coat on my Jag pit, woohoo!! Dug
gcn Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks for all the replies guys, tremendously helpful! The main reason I was looking for advice was 'cuz I was hoping to cut down on my trial and error phase. I've never actually sat down and measured my ratios either, but it's nice to get an overall consensus of who does what. I'm glad I asked because, as I am MM guy, I might have tried the MM ratios, which as it turns out would not be so good. So, off the paintroom, (read: bathroom!) to lay down the base coat on my Jag pit, woohoo!!Dug Although I said 50|50 I never measure exactly I go by feel and a final check is how quick the paint moves down the side of the jar. If it don't move or moves too slow then add thinner. If it speeds down then its a touch over thinned IME
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