Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 OK, as the current F6 is in the painting stage, looking to make an F4 now. What method to remove the dog tooth? Hack it off and sand back or is there a clever method involving the insert? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 OK, as the current F6 is in the painting stage, looking to make an F4 now. What method to remove the dog tooth? Hack it off and sand back or is there a clever method involving the insert? Persoanlly I'd look at replacing the leading edge with a wedge of plastic card and Milliput. You would need to reduce the length of the wing tip sections as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I can see that working - I want to avoid the wing planform looking like a Draken when finished!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I can see that working - I want to avoid the wing planform looking like a Draken when finished!! I think I used that method (or something similar) when backdating Academy F6's - into an F4 & F5. The biggest challenge was to keep the leading edges dead straight..... Actually I quite fancy a 1/72 scale 257Sqn F2................Hmmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) Mmmm, I wonder..... If you flip the inserts round (i.e. use the left wing insert on the right hand wing) the fit is pretty good on the underside piece of the wing - remove the section to the rear of the 'step' on the insert, and a section on the upper wing piece and it looks like it will fit . Where's that razor saw......... Edit: A little trimming and sanding needed, but it looks like it will work - pics later!! Edited January 25, 2008 by Dave Fleming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) OK, Starboard wing parts and port leading edge extension, trimmed as above. Wing bits stuck together with tape for testing Looks OK, a little fettling on the fit at the rear of the extension and reshaping/trimming the wing tip and it should be OK Edited January 25, 2008 by Dave Fleming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewe Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Personally I remove a section from the upper wing to give a flat face, not a stepped one when the wing is assembled, then superglue some thick plastic card onto the face, let it set and then go at it with the knives and sanding sticks! Works for me. Only problem I can see with your method Dave is having to fill and sand to even up the kit-derived insert. Seems even more work than just using thick plastic sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) Thanks Drewe, I'm not confident I can keep a straight line on the l/e while sanding some plastic card. I wonder if Pavla would sell the ones in their F1/F3 kits separately...... Edited January 25, 2008 by Dave Fleming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I started my 257 Sqn F2 today (or will it be a 34 Sqn F5 with Light Stone Suez stripes?)............and tried two approaches (i) on one wing I used plastic card and Milliput and (ii) on the second wing I used the kit part superglued in place and hacked away with plastic cutters, files (very important to retain the straight leading edge and wet n' dry! I think the second method worked slightly better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I started my 257 Sqn F2 today (or will it be a 34 Sqn F5 with Light Stone Suez stripes?)............and tried two approaches (i) on one wing I used plastic card and Milliput and (ii) on the second wing I used the kit part superglued in place and hacked away with plastic cutters, files (very important to retain the straight leading edge and wet n' dry! I think the second method worked slightly better. If your going to back date the wings you will also need to change the F6 engine pieces, as their is more of a slope up to the jet pipe. I am researching hunters at the moment an read about the difference in shape the other day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 Edit to method - you don't need to swap the inserts! Once trimmed down, they fit very well on their intended wing! Only the tips to worry about!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 If your going to back date the wings you will also need to change the F6 engine pieces, as their is more of a slope up to the jet pipe. I am researching hunters at the moment an read about the difference in shape the other day. Thanks for that Steven, but I think that you're preaching to the converted (So to speak!!). We've had many a lively debate on here (and a few other websites) over the last few years on the differences between the Avon 100 (and Sapphire) powered Hunters as opposed to the 200 series! As a matter of interest here's an F4 conversion I started last year (and not managed to finish - yet!!) The starboard wing leading edge has been converted by using the kits L.E. and hacking off the surplus plastic.... The 100 series tail pipe (and centre section) are from Model Alliance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radish Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 All very interesting this as I'm building the "white Hunter" soon from the other thread. I'm looking to use the kit parts, hack, fill and sand the wings "back" to shape. I'm also building WW598 in its later rebuilt condition as a Lebanese FGA70A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Thanks for that Steven, but I think that you're preaching to the converted (So to speak!!).We've had many a lively debate on here (and a few other websites) over the last few years on the differences between the Avon 100 (and Sapphire) powered Hunters as opposed to the 200 series! As a matter of interest here's an F4 conversion I started last year (and not managed to finish - yet!!) The starboard wing leading edge has been converted by using the kits L.E. and hacking off the surplus plastic.... The 100 series tail pipe (and centre section) are from Model Alliance... Thanks for the info on the model alliance parts, i'll keep my eyes open for those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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