dylan the rabbit Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 The next kit on the bench, and a star one to kick off 2008, is going to be the Airfix 1/144th Concorde. One thing that's bugging me though, is the windows. I'm thinking of spraying the interior black, and once assembled, brush painting Klear over the fuselage to replicate windows. However.. Once I've painted the insides black, and glue the fuselage together, when I get to spraying the kit white, it'll surely go through the window holes and give the insides a white frosting. 1) Would this be a huge deal? 2) Should I look at glueing plasticard inside the fuselage behind the windows, and then once the airframe is sprayed white, fill in the holes with, say, a black wash, and then seal it in with Klear? Questions questions! Cheers, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Fester Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Hi, Shouldn't be a problem really as the windows are pretty small especially in 1/144. But if you do want to mask them then some small blobs of liquid mask in each of the windows should work, after the white top coat just remove the masking and fill with crystal clear or future. Cheers Doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted December 30, 2007 Author Share Posted December 30, 2007 Cheers Doc, Don't have any Liquid Mask, so I'll just spray anyway. Thanks. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Nick, try thinning some pva glue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted December 30, 2007 Author Share Posted December 30, 2007 How'd I do that then, and how's I clean it afters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Try COPYDEX or some other similar- it's like rubbery- Ithink youcan clean it off the brush / thin it out with thinners... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sealeopard Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Once I've painted the insides black, and glue the fuselage together, when I get to spraying the kit white, it'll surely go through the window holes and give the insides a white frosting.1) Would this be a huge deal? 2) Should I look at glueing plasticard inside the fuselage behind the windows, and then once the airframe is sprayed white, fill in the holes with, say, a black wash, and then seal it in with Klear? Cheers, Nick In the course of the last year, I completed two airliners, both of which had larger windows than the Airfix 1/144 Concorde, but no interior detail. I sprayed them black inside. The exterior finish was mostly white/ light grey/ polished aluminium, and some overspray must have got inside the fuselage. However, once the windows had been glazed with pva glue (not Copydex - it's not water-soluble) none could be seen. Glueing plasticard behind the window openings will make things more difficult - I wouldn't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 In the course of the last year, I completed two airliners, both of which had larger windows than the Airfix 1/144 Concorde, but no interior detail. I sprayed them black inside. The exterior finish was mostly white/ light grey/ polished aluminium, and some overspray must have got inside the fuselage. However, once the windows had been glazed with pva glue (not Copydex - it's not water-soluble) none could be seen. Glueing plasticard behind the window openings will make things more difficult - I wouldn't do it. I wasn't talking about replacing the glazing- masking it....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sealeopard Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I wasn't talking about replacing the glazing- masking it....... OK, that works, though for the amount of overspray you'd get inside the model's fuselage, it isn't really necessary. BTW, you don't need to thin Copydex, it works just fine as it comes. You clean brushes used to apply it with cellulose thinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 That's what I said earlier......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sealeopard Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 That's what I said earlier......... Not quite. You didn't specify the type of thinners. It has to be cellulose. Other types don't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippiebg Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Hi, I treat the ole Airfix Conc window issue thus: - tape and burnish down strips of Sellotape over the windows on the outside; - press a length of Milliput into the window apertures from the inside (the Sellotape keeps Milliput from spilling out); - remove Sellotape, assemble and paint as normal - apply aftermarket decals, including window decals. Benefits: - the Conc's windows are little larger than fag packets, and super thick to boot, so using decals is if anything more realistic - the Airfix decals are appalling, anyway (especially the Air France blue). For aftermarket decals see - http://www.lycoseshop.co.uk/epages/twosixd...roducts/144-161 - http://www.f-dcal.net/pages/laser/14471.html For the flightdecak, you decide on decals or clear parts. The kit has a very faithful shape (nose a bit dull, though) and good flightdeck coaming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLP Publishing Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 White overspray through the window openings would be minimal enough to be unnoticeable on the end result, as it's what I've been doing on my old Airfix airliners. I also agree with the poster who noted that backing the windows with plastic strip wouldn't work so good - I know from experience that he's right! It makes glazing the windows more difficult, not easier. It basically prevents you from poking your toothpick (or preferred applicator) through far enough for the glazing medium (thinned white glue, commercial alternative, whatever...) to 'take' and form a film across the opening. I found that trying to fill the hole completely (down to the plastic backing) to form a window didn't work well either, as the <insert preferred medium here> would sag and implode. By the time I had filled it completely after umpteen applications, it looked terrible. I hope all that makes sense! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT40Graham Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Mask with Kristal Klear, spray, poke out painted Kristal Klear and re-glaze with Kristal Klear. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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