p-26luvr Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Would it be possible to convert the ship to her earlier configuration, that of the WWII ammo supply ship?I have a couple of Hasegawas ship, but this one has eluded me. But my guess is that if it is something like the others, it's a great kit. Both Hasegawa and Tamiya make that extra effort when doing japanese subjects. Even their older (70-80's) kits of japanese tanks and airplanes are quite good. As you say this is a very good model from all aspects. It has detail parts in abundance, all panel lines are clearly defined, & for me they have all been easy to assemble. As to converting the model back to the WW2 configuration. I think that it is a possibility. BUT, I would want a lot more information on the deck layout to hand. The bow would be the most difficult part to change, in my opinion, since that was totally different. The side sponsons would have to be removed & replaced with flat sheet stock. Not too difficult, but care would have to be taken. You would have to get the " FIRST CORPS" version to start with. The major drawback to such a project is that the model is quite expensive as you buy it new. I have been very lucky in that I bought the first 2 kits at very reduced prices. Otherwise I would not have bought any of them. On one hand though, I think that Hasegawa has given the really experienced ship modeler a good start toward such a conversion. Maybe someone else with more experience will add to & join in with an opinion & some suggestions. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 I have kept this post seperate from the previous one because it is the starting one for the " FIRST CORPS" version of the model. As you can see I have the lower hull & deck done with one of the upper hull sides glued in place. You have to be very careful seperating the upper hull piece from the sprue where the piece is narrowed down. There are a lot of holes there that could easily cause breakage. One of the things that I have learned is to glue the upper hull piece from the bow toward the back. This way the kinks in the front end of the upper hull piece bottom line up better with the lower hull pieces giving a smoother surface at the join. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denstore Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Was the bow modified to help with breaking the ice during the expeditions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Was the bow modified to help with breaking the ice during the expeditions? That I cannot say because, as I understand it, the ship was made for the Russians originally as an ice breaking cargo ship. To get the longest history that I have so far found; in a Goopgle search, type in IIJN SOYA & on the index page that comes up click on ammunition ships. This will give you a tabulated history oh this ship which is very interesting even though it is short. It prints out to 6 pages in length. The only reason that I know of the different bow is because I have the booklet that came with the "FIRST CORPS" version of the model. It has 12 color side profiles of the ship throughout its long history. I believe, but am not sure, that the book is produced by the museum the ship is part of in Tokyo bay. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 The Google search should be IJN SOYA just those 7 letters only. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 These first 2 pictures are to show the latest model as it is right now. The next 2 pictures show all 3 models as they are now. I will be adding more small plastic detail pieces while I am waiting fot the etch-brass sets to get here. As you can see there is quite a difference between the various models. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODeller Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Carl invited me to make a comment on my thoughts about making the WW2 version of Soya from the first issue kit, it is possible but my own method would be to rebuild everything from the deck upwards, given the price of the kit and its rarity (in the UK) that will not be happening on my workbench I am afraid! Now that I know through Carl of the colourful WW2 history of this vessel I would hope that maybe Hasegawa would consider a fourth moulding! The attached photos show how far I have progressed on my First Corps model, getting rather crowded along that tiny hull! MODeller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Great work P-26 - nice to see them lined-up with all the differences... MODeller - that looks ace!! I'm really going to have to dig mine out again - maybe at the weekend. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Brian & Ian, thank you both for your comments. I really appreciate them. Your model is setting a pretty high bar for me to measure up to Brian. It gets better looking everytime that I see new pictures. I hope that mine will be half as good as yours. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Thanks for showing the three kits together, I didn't even realise there were three separate kits released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 If you like the 3 models as they are now just wait until they are all 3 finished & sitting side by side. That is a long time in the future except for Brians model.The etch-brass set for the 3rd corps model came in the mail today & it has just about blown me away. I will try to take a good picture of it later. To Denstore, I have been looking closely at these models & thinking as to whether or not one could be converted to the WW2 version. My answer now has to be no. My reason for saying this is that if you cut out the 2 side sponsons you would have a very shallow bottom piece left, & where you woul;d also have to modify the bow considerably the whole hull would be extremely weak & flexable to handle. Also you would have to do a large amount of cutting on the upper hull pieces. I am not sure, but, in my opinion this was a one off ship, & not part of a class of ships, so it might be very difficult to get accurate plans for it. I reiterate, I am not a ship modeler. So my recomendation for what it is worth is it would be better to scratcbuild the whole model. I would be very interested to hear from more experienced ship modelers to hear what they have to say. One other thing. I went back to the build article on the modelingmadness site today to check this out. It seems that the version that Brian is building was the first one released,& AS A LIMMITED ISSUE EDITION model. The others came out later. There is also a great commonality of pieces in the 3 kits along with the necessary ones to make any one of the other 3. In my fantasy mode, I can see the possibility that Hasegawa might at some future date just release such a WW2 version, by again usuing the common pieces & runnig off some modified pieces. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 I spent the morning drilling out portholes on the last 2 models. I had forgotten to do it before I added the upper hull parts. BIG MISTAKE. The one with the bigger helicopter landing pad was nerve racking. Trying to hold the model & not break any of the mounting triangles that are on the uprights was trying. The model is just not big enough to hold comfortably, the sharp edges dig in your skin. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 For anyone desiring a 57 picture walkaround ot the real SOYA, please go to; www.modelwarships.com/features/walkaround/soya-dl.html I got this from the build article on the modelingmadnrss site. The pictures are all enlargeable by touching on them. They are spread over 4 pages, you click on the arrow at the top to go from page to page. There are interior pictures too. They are courtesy of Dave Lockhart. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Anyone wanting to buy one of these models please go to www.scalehobbyist.com They have them on sale at a $20.00 reduced price. They are listing all 3 of them, so you might have a choice at present. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 A word of caution here. BE SURE TO CLEAN UP & SAND ALL OF YOUR SEAMS AS YOU GO ALONG. I did not on the first model & now it maybe impossible to do so on a couple of them. They are along the main deckhouse behind the boat davits. Also I added the triangular gussets on the rear uprights before I did the sanding on the bottom of the hull. It is hard to break some lifetime bad modeling habits, no matter your best intentions, I find. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 They look like a real project, I missed the fact that you were building all three! Looking forward to seeing the paint go on... Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODeller Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Here are a couple of photos of my almost complete effort to show the size and complexity of the kit with added etched brass. It has now got very awkward to handle without damaging something! MODeller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Lovely! Dug mine out again last night - will post some pix later in the week... Presume the orange you've used on the Hull in the Humbrol one? What number? Iain Edited November 22, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 A word of caution here. BE SURE TO CLEAN UP & SAND ALL OF YOUR SEAMS AS YOU GO ALONG. I did not on the first model & now it maybe impossible to do so on a couple of them. They are along the main deckhouse behind the boat davits. Also I added the triangular gussets on the rear uprights before I did the sanding on the bottom of the hull. It is hard to break some lifetime bad modeling habits, no matter your best intentions, I find. Carl T Hi Carl, That's exactly what stopped me going any further earlier this year - trying to work out in what order to assemble/sand/paint/assemble/sand... You get the idea! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODeller Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Lovely! Dug mine out again last night - will post some pix later in the week... Presume the orange you've used on the Hull in the Humbrol one? What number? Iain Hi Iain, yes good old Humbrol 18 is the orange, although now it is acrylic rather than the enamel it was initially painted in! MODeller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thanks for posting the pictures Brian The model looks really great. I have a feeling that it will be a while before I get to the stage you are at. I am looking forward to seeing the finished model. Ian I hope you start your model again soon, maybe an hour now & then as a break from your other biggies. This is a picture of the E/B for the 3rd corps version. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hewitt Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Didn't realize you were building 3 ships ,its got very interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 After looking back over the pictures in this thread, I would suggest that the best times to do your major sanding is when you have the model at the stage shown in post #4 second picture down. At this stage you can sand the seam along the center of the hull & fill in any roughness that has developed. You can also sand the deck edges on the sponsons witout any detail getting in the way. After you have added the upper hull side pieces & the 3 deck pieces, the fore & after decks do not require any sanding, but the deck in the center section does & now is when I recommend doing that. Before you even add the hanger piece. This is in the picture in post #54. If you refer back to those 2 posts you can see what I mean. This completes your big sanding parts, the rest are in the small sub-assemblies. The major part of the glueing is done from the inside where it does not show, except for the small sub-assemblies. It is up to you whether or not to fill & sand the joints there. One of the ways that shows just how small these models are is shown in Brian's picture that has the Humbrol can of paint next to it. And as he says, the more that you add to the model the more difficult it will be to handle. For instance, for me the hard part will be adding the safety nets, in etch-brass, around the stern of all 3 models. Take a close look at Brians model & you will see what I mean. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 These 4 pictures show the 3rd corps version model as it is right now. The first corps version is as Brian has pictured it. The second corps version is as my first model is shown earlier in the thread. Everything from the smokestack aft is as it will be on the finished model, except for the lifeboats with thier davits. The upper deck, kingposts are only laid temporarily in place. For some reason, I am unable to post the 4th picture, but these 3 show most of what I want to show. If you look closely at the area around the smokestack & behind the wheelhouse you will considerable differences from the other 2 models. The rear cargo kingposts are shorter. There will be a lot more detail added to the pilot house top, like that is shown in Brians model. I hope you like these pictures. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 I have taken 9 pictures to show some of the differences between the 3 model. The first 2 show all 3 together as they are now. This one shows the differences in the foredeck. The thing to notice here is the arrangement of the 4 boom winches on the 2 models. On the lower deck model they are aligned fore & aft, while on the other 2 models they are set at an angle, & the forward holds are a different size. My next post will have the rest of these pictures. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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