p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I am starting my build thread with the above picture in order to show how small the model is. That is a 6 inch steel ruler in front. The model is as I have now gotten along with it. I bought this model last Sunday at the Show in Nashua NH for $20.00. Lokking at the box art & considering the price, I expected a model perhaps similar to Airfix's E-boat or Revells S-100 boat, both of which I have made up. And so I thought I would be getting a nice easy build, even though I knew there is etch-brass in the kit. You can imagine my surprise when I get home & open up a box with about 300 pieces of very small plastic parts & about 225+ etch-brass pieces for a relatively small model. The quality of the mouldings are of typical Hasegawa excellence. The instructions run to 20 steps, have an excellent paint illustration for the finshed model in the same size as the model, & a thorough rigging diagram. Parts painting is listed with the assembly diagrams. The etch-brass fret has crew figures,dogs,& penquins, as well as the more necessary detail pieces you would expect. I did some research hunting on the internet & found a tabulated history of the ship, which gave a number of dates with a sentence or 2 detailing the service for that time frame. It was built in 1938, it served in & survived WW2 as a Japanese amunition ship, was bombed ,strafed & torpedoed. After the war it was used as a transport ship to bring about 19,00 troops back to Japan. It was then modified for use in Antartic research work, making 6 trips. After that work was finished & she was replaced she did several years service as an ice-breaker around Japan. She is now a floating museum in Tokyo harbor. AS I am led to understand, Hasegawea has released 3 seperate versions of this model. My model is the second type released. It has a number of unused pieces which I think would be used in another version. The instructions are for my type of the model only. Carl T This picture is the start of a number that will show the parts in the kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 This is the clear parts fret, more on this as wI go along This is the etch-brass fret Box art Another picture to show the realitive size of the modl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 This is the lower hull section with the internalframes in place. This has the lower deck added This has the support frames in place for the upper deck, & the upper hull sides just layed in place. this is with the upper hull sides just layed in place. I am now going to drill out the porthole in the upper hull sides & paint the lower deck & inside parts of upper hull plates. Carl T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 In this picture you can see one of the upper hull sides seperate from the lower hull structure For such a small model it has a lot of internal structural reenforcement. This is my first ship model in 1/350th scale,so, everything is sort of a new experience for me. In my search for more information on the real ship, & build articles on the model I came across 4 series of pictures by 4 different modelers that have completed this model. They are on www.modelshipgallery.com I also found a build article on the modelingmadness site. And there is one by ian(32sig) on this site, all of which have been encouraging. More later BTW I expect that this will turn out to be a long term build thread. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkippyBing Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Just realised I've been on the Soya when I visited Tokyo back in '06. It didn't look the warmest vessel to visit the Antarctic on! I only took a couple of shots from the outside but I thought the one attached might provide some inspiration even if there's not much detail! SOYA by SkippyBing, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Thanks for posting the picture. anything & everything helps. It just struck me that I have not seen anything about dimensions for the real ship. Length,width, & depth & tonnage. I will have to keep looking. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 I just remembered, spurred by the above picture, that wikipedia has a very good picture of the ship at it's moorings in Tokyo bay. Ihave found a lot by typing in IJNSOYA on google. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 For anyone that wants to follow what I have found out about the real ship & other models. First is the build article on the modelingmadness site. At the end are reference links, one of which is a walkaround with over 40 thumbnail pictures that can be enlarged. Just click on the link & you get the W/A On GOOGLE I type in IJNSOYA and have found the following. On wikipedia under SOYA (ice breaker) a short history & a picture that can be enlarged twice to get lots of useful detail. At one time the ship was called the Santa Claus of the Sea. Japanese Ammunition ships gives a tabular history from beginning in 1938 to the present which is very interesting. It gives a date & a few sentences about that time. Fine Scale Modeler has links to more pictures of the real ship. There are 4 links to pictures of more models of this one. They are all on modelwarshipsgallery site, but can be acessed here. They are by the following modelers. Each one has from 5 to 15 thumbnail pictures of his model. Peter van Buren, Michael Taylor, Stefan Loekito, & Andrzej Zurawski. All of the models shown are super. Mr. Taylors is in a diorama format that is very evocotive of the Antartica work the ship must have taken part in. I am still looking for more information & pictures of & about this amazing ship. Knowing what little I do know about it is still an inspiration to make this model. Before last Sunday I had never heard of or known anything about it or the model. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Certainly looks an interesting and quite complex model. I don't normally do civilian ships, but I will watch this build with the view of getting one myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Very interesting subject, looks like a very nice fret of PE as well. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 In my humble opinion, this is one of the finest ship models that I have ever come across. It seems to be a work of love by both the Hasegawa people, & the original designer of the kit. The attention to every detail is very evident. The numerous small parts just ooze with quality. If you look up Ian (sig 32 )'s build you can see an enlargement of the etch-brass fret. Unlike some others that complain about the small size & over engineering, & the large amount of etch-brass, & certain problems, (One of the neat ,almost miniscule details are the cleats molded on the upper edge of the upper hull sides. Extreme care will be required while handling the hull while sanding the join lines on the bottom of the hull so as not to break any of them off.) I will really be enjoying this build. I listed the above 4 model picture links so that any prospective buyer/builder will have the best examples of what this model can be made up as, & in the enlarged pictures a good idea of the detail that can be incorperated by said modeler. Despite it's relative high cost I think that for the interested & dedicated modeler it is worth every penny & more. I know that I was extremely lucky, in that I bought mine at such a low price, but my statement stands. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 This picture shows the tiny cleats that are moulded to the edge of the upper hull pieces. The longer section is 11/32nds inch long, on a 9 inch long hull side piece. The upright parts are framework representations. I believe that the large pushout holes are hidden by the upper deck. I would hate to have to guess how high those cleats are. Included with the model are these parts to make up a base for the finshed model to rest in. I shall probably put my model on a wooden base. This is the assembleed base. I hope that these pictures prove of interest to you. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 In my humble opinion, this is one of the finest ship models that I have ever come across. It seems to be a work of love by both the Hasegawa people, & the original designer of the kit. The attention to every detail is very evident. The numerous small parts just ooze with quality. If you look up Ian (sig 32 )'s build you can see an enlargement of the etch-brass fret. Unlike some others that complain about the small size & over engineering, & the large amount of etch-brass, & certain problems, (One of the neat ,almost miniscule details are the cleats molded on the upper edge of the upper hull sides. Extreme care will be required while handling the hull while sanding the join lines on the bottom of the hull so as not to break any of them off.) I will really be enjoying this build. I listed the above 4 model picture links so that any prospective buyer/builder will have the best examples of what this model can be made up as, & in the enlarged pictures a good idea of the detail that can be incorperated by said modeler. Despite it's relative high cost I think that for the interested & dedicated modeler it is worth every penny & more. I know that I was extremely lucky, in that I bought mine at such a low price, but my statement stands. Carl T Seconded! I bought mine cheaply last year at the Telford show here in UK (had to source the etch separately) and was stunned by the detail on some of the mouldings... You're inspiring me to dig mine out again! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Ian, Thank you for your comment. I hope you will sooner or later find the time to get back to this model. I like what you are working on now. These are 2 pictures that show where I have drilled out the portholes on the upper hull sides. I read where the fellow who did the build article that I read had done this, &, it sounded like it might add interest to the finished model so I followed suit. The top picture shows one side drilled out & the other side as molded.If you look closely at the right end of the upper piece you can see the holes as molded. In this picture I show what I used to drill the holes with & on. I used a number 69 twist drill in a pin vioce, with the hull side piece laid across the top of the short dowel. By using the dowel piece I have a way to hold both the kit part & steady it while drilling the holes. Also, I do not have to flatten out or put too much pressure on the curved sections of the hull sides while drilling. This way the pieces are not distorted at the curved areas. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wonker Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I'll be watching this with interest Carl. A bit of a change from biplanes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Yesterday I cemented the upper hull side pieces on. While trying to fit the upper deck pieces in place, I found that I have the parts to make the model with the larger helicopter landing pad, AND, the instruction sheets for the model without that feature. SO using the diagrams in the instruction sheets I corrcted the rear lower deck. My model will not have the larger landing pad. I am now at the stage where I will have to assemble & paint the superstructure before I can continue. This is going to take a while I think. Many of the parts in this section are in clear plastic & will require careful gluing & masking to keep the very small window areas clear. As an aside. I dropped the front clear piece for the superstructure onto the floor carpet & did not find it until this morning, after getting down on my hands & knees to look. It is harder to find clear pieces than colored ones, I now think. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 These next few pictures show vwhere I am with the model now. The forward deck & superstructure face are only laid in place, not cemented. As you can see these 2 are full lengty from bow & stern. This is the bow up a little closer. This is the stern & center section up closer. This is the center section from overhead. I hope you find them interesting. Any comments are always welcome. I only bought the model last Sunday & this is my first 1/350th scale ship odel. Carl T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Some more work on the small deck pieces & preparing to do the superstructure clear pieces. I misplaced one of the sprue sections for a couple of days but finally found it, & it has the only broken piece that I have found in the model so far. I have bought the Trumpeter 1/350th scale Jeremiah O'Brien, & am sending for the Gold Medal etch-brass set for that model. I think these 2 models will complement each other, Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Here are a few pictures to show where I am with the model at present. I am most likely wrongly going about building the model this way, I should probably done some of the main painting before now. Those boat davits look awfully fragile & may end up being broken from all of the handling I expect to be doing during the painting stage. I will be adding some of the etch-brass next. THis is the center section with the superstructure. The foredeck. Stern deck I hope you like these pictures, & any comments are always welcome. Carl T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denstore Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Look absolutly stunning. Must add this kit to my ever groving 350 collection. And you do the kit justice. Seem to be very clean assembly work. Like it a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Coming along very well and looking very nice too. Personally I would have painted the decks and hull separately before adding the ancillary items which would also have been painted beforehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Not having built a ship model in this scale before & with so many very small parts attached directly to the deck, I decided to work this way so that the area where a part is attached directly to the deck is firmly glued in place & not on/over paint. Also, I did not want so much glue spoiling a good paint job. The main thing for me is that I am enjoying building this very complex model. I think that I can still turn out a passably good model. No matter how it turns out, I hope that someone will like it enough to try it for themselves, & possibly learn from my mistakes. I am, in fact, surprised that there have not been more comments on the way I am building this model. I have been waiting for the more experienced ship modelers to jump all over me for any mistakes that I have possibly made. Carl t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Can't see any mistakes. You're just doing what you are enjoying and learning at the same time. BTW what type of glue are you using. I use liquid poly for the plastic and GS Hypo glue for the etch and don't find either cause me too much of a problem with pre painted parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 After making the above post I was sitting here holding & looking over the model. I then placed it up against the computer sreen in the last 4 pictures that I posted. First, the pictures are over twice as big as the model, particularly the 2 midship pictures. There is a downward sloping section just to the rear of the smokestack that has 2 bollards under it on the nearter side & one larger one on the far side. wich I had forgotten to attach at the right time. Getting them in in such a small confined space was hard enough without ruining a painted deck doing it. I can plainly see that I will have a hard time painting the model, BUT I THINK THAT IF I WAS TO HAVE SPOILED A GOOD EARLY PAINT WORK JOB IT MIGHT HAVE ENDED UP WITH ME THROWING OUT THE MODEL IN DISGUST. I was joking with a friend earlier today that I might paint it all a light ivory color all over & claim it as carved whalebone in fact. Thankfully the real ship is very colorful. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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