Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) Hi gents and thanks for having me...so far, With my vast knowledge of computers and understanding of all things electrical I can now post pics of this build...or I did by complete accident on the other post.Anyway,I've taken the Revell Monogram MkI/II with the new engraved wing and brought it up to an MkVb standard by cutting the gun bulges from an old Hasegawa kit and fixing them to the new MkI/II wing as well as filling some panel lines and adding some new ones.The cockpit side walls are scratch built for the most part,the floor was modified the correct the wide set of the rudder pedals,narrowed the seat frame to accept the Warbird Productions seat,Waldron placards and a bunch more.The Intsrument panel has been completely re-worked with Waldron guages...oh hell,here[ Edited December 20, 2007 by Dave Pratt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Here's the right side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Here's the same side,different angle...my head reall hurts right now but his nicewrap-around jacket with the zipper in the back feels ...good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Both sides now...Laverty! I'm postin' pics!!!! Here's where it all starts to come together... The process is slow and painfull...just like my hangover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobs_Buckles Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Looks amazing! Merry Christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I tried a few new things like adding the coaming to the outside of the canopy,bleanding it in to the fuselage,and that sort of nonsense... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Thanks Bob,your pic at the side of the column looks amazing also Boy I'm having a ball with these little icons... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I tried a Chris Wauchop technique (or I think it was his) where the paint is thinned 20/80 paint to thinner and when sprayed over the primered suface the dif ference in shading is almost imidiate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bexwh773 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Gorgeous Bex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I used mainly Gunze acrylics as well as a bit of Tamiya.I just switched to an Iwata HP-C Plus airbrush (love it) and found that the Pollyscale I was using previously would clogg the airbrush.No problem with the other two brands though.I thinned all my paint with 97% Isopropyl... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I also added a set of resin exhausts from Quickboost...these are a must for fish-tail exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Bex thanks for the kind word...how does a fellow put a picture next to his name on the left hand side of the cloumn by the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bexwh773 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Bex thanks for the kind word...how does a fellow put a picture next to his name on the left hand side of the cloumn by the way? Youre welcome, oh PM inbound by the way. Bex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Since finding out about Montex Masks I haven't used decals for markings over my last five builds and since I'm a 1/32 guy it makes things much easier.That scale is big and the painted-on markings can't be beat.What I've found that works best for me is by cutting strips of paper and placing them around the perimeter of the mask.This helps in several ways,it addes rigidity to the mask itself,if (when) you apply the mask and it's cock-eyed you can easily re-position it by simply lifting a corner of the paper,also the mask itself has a very good adhesive and very little of it is needed to firmly seat the mask to your project.The less adhesive attached to your project means the less likely you are to leave residue behind.This will happen from time to time but really nothing to write home about.If you were to lay the entire mask down then you might have a problem...my fingers are getting sore... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I would have been well served to have sprayed a darker,solid colour into the opening of the wing roundels but went with white instead.I'm good looking,not smart....the fuselage roundel definetly required white since the yellow for the outer ring would have never come through.I found when spraying yellow always spray white underneath to make the yellow pop out.I painted the outer ring,then placed the mask over it.With the white already inside the roundel I placed the mask to cover it into position then sprayed the red,which was my own mix as was the yellow.Once the red was dry I covered that and sprayed the blue.When masking it serves well to cover the outsides of the mask with Tamiya tape in order to prevent any possible over spray seeping in between the masks.This and when spraying with these masks use a thin mixture that won't easily run and ruin all your hard work... I would have been well served to have sprayed a darker,solid colour into the opening of the wing roundels but went with white instead.I'm good looking,not smart....the fuselage roundel definetly required white since the yellow for the outer ring would have never come through.I found when spraying yellow always spray white underneath to make the yellow pop out.I painted the outer ring,then placed the mask over it.With the white already inside the roundel I placed the mask to cover it into position then sprayed the red,which was my own mix as was the yellow.Once the red was dry I covered that and sprayed the blue.When masking it serves well to cover the outsides of the mask with Tamiya tape in order to prevent any possible over spray seeping in between the masks.This and when spraying with these masks use a thin mixture that won't easily run and ruin all your hard work... Not really sure what the hell happened there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Here's the finished roundel.I think I have the colours right,er,close to right,maybe it's just the lighting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 The codes were really easy to do...but I still found a way to bugger them up.I fixed them eventually but caused myself untold stress...oh well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bexwh773 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Unbelievable Bex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmojen Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Looks great Dave, and I love the masked markings, they do look better on big kits don't they! I have to ask my customary stupid question though-why not just use the Hasegawa Vb in the first place? Jen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Why not use the Hasegawa kit?Very good question...I've scribed the under wing centre section on that kit before and it was a pain in the bottom to do but this MkI/II being a nicely engraved wing saved me from that.On the other hand I'll scribe it next time since fixing those cut-out gun bulges was a real pain in the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Here's the slogan painted on the door.It took almost an hour to apply this mask seeing as it was so small and delicate...yes,I said delicate.It took about 20 seconds to paint it on the other hand but the look was well worth the effort... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Just a few more of the almost completed project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Fine piece of work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatBlokeJim Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Shweet Spit mate all that Achey Work is REALLY paying off now eh? Beautiful Job ! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 That looks great, I've been toying with the idea of painted on markings instead of decals for a while, I've even got several sets of the Montex masks, so will have to give it a go. Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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