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Revell/Matchbox Fury I


Max Headroom

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How did I know this thread would attract you, Carl? ;)

I don't remember many Matchbox kits having the "rivet detail" on them, and boy that fit is pretty rough…

Mr. Don, I have to do something besides SOYAs do I not ? You know me & the interwar toys. Carl T :thumbsup::speak_cool:

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  • 1 month later...
My failing memory tells me that one of the two colours on the original release was blue?

My failing memory mustn't be as bad as I thought - I clearly recall the styrene being a garish bright blue and a creamy white colour.

I also recall being very impressed at the interlocking cabane struts, which made their assembly SO much stronger and easier than all the other fiddly WW1 biplanes that I had been building back then, including some Airfix and a bunch of Entex kits.

I don't recall the fit being too bad and it was a very strong little model once completed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
All this lovely detail makes me feel guilty about doing a quick build!

I wonder would Airfix consider a re release of their 1/48 kit?

Trevor

Airfix are reissuing this kit in conjunction with Modelzone as they did last year with the Spitfire/Bf109 set. Expected date is July and the price should be around £16.99. Two choices of markings will be offered.These are yet to be confirmed,but I suspect a silver 43 Sqn aircraft and a camouflaged South African machine based in North Africa.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Airfix are reissuing this kit in conjunction with Modelzone as they did last year with the Spitfire/Bf109 set. Expected date is July and the price should be around £16.99. Two choices of markings will be offered.These are yet to be confirmed,but I suspect a silver 43 Sqn aircraft and a camouflaged South African machine based in North Africa.

That is good news. I've got the Lindberg on the go at the moment but will definitely pick this up as well and I'm a sucker for the Fury.

Most beautiful aircraft made? It must be up there ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little progress.

Turing my attention to the wings, I took a file to reduce the sagging fabric effect. Here is a comparison between the lower wing as modded by me and the upper wing which has yet to receive my attention.

ea664d73.jpg

Curiously the fuselage fabric effect is much finer. Once all of the sanding is finished I will need to polish out the scratches before painting. Thank goodness this is in camo and not silver!

Once the upper wing had also been filed, I turned my attention to the tailpane. I cut the kit struts off the sprue, but they deformed or broke, so I replaced them with fuse wire. It's thinner and loooks better anyway.

6ccbde98.jpg

Bye the bye, I came across a part built PM Sea Fury T.20, (that's being wheeled into the finishing hanger afterwards). The biplane (as the Hornet) first flew in 1929 and the Sea Fury in 1945.

e9dd5a7e.jpg

There is nothing like a war to intensify development.

Trevor

More soon (?)

Edited by Max Headroom
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi.

Nice work so far. Looking good.

This is a lovely little kit to put together. I've just finished mine this evening, built OOB with a little bit of detail added to the cockpit. I went for blue rather than yellow, and it has been the first biplane I have rigged (lycra thread- great stuff) :partytime: , so I am rather pleased with myself.

I'll get a photo or two taken and put up in the right forum over the weekend.

Martin

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Hi Martin and thanks for the kind words. I'd love to see your rendition posted. Where did you get the lycra thread btw?

As a mojo restorer it sort of failed! I get short bursts of enthusiasm and then life interrupts - in this case getting the camo paint.

Hopefully I will do some more soon - probably wielding the hairy stick at it.

Regards

trevor

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You are making me consider getting out my Inpact 1/48 Fury!

Don't think - just do it!

Thanks for the encouragement everyone.

I will do some more soon.........................honestly.

Trevor the slothful

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Hello again!

No updates yet but I'm working in the background on research.

Looking in the Flightglobal archive I came across this................

http://www.flightglobal.com/pdfarchive/vie...20hawker%20fury

Now then I have a couple of queries:

1) Is the roundel on the port underwing of the plane at the top of the photo evidence of a rush overpaint? If so, what do you make of the result?There 'appears' to be an inner ring and a central spot - or is that just me trying to see past the undercarriage?

2) Notice the caption to the photo "....their new camouflage with the white and yellow circles omitted". Now then,I didn't know that Furies pre 1939 even had yellow outer rings - is this nonsense?

Trevor

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You will see a lot of RAF aircraft with red/white/blue/yellow circles in all six places prewar - Early Spitfires, Blenheims and Battles spring to mind. It seems to have been common shortly after the introduction of camouflage, before being overtaken by the red/blue roundels associated with the post-Munich period. I don't recall seeing photos of Furies (or indeed Hurricanes) with these but can't say they didn't. Perhaps Mike Bowyer describes the use in this period in more detail?

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Hello again!

No updates yet but I'm working in the background on research.

Trevor

Trevor

here's a link to the long out of print Ducimus booklet, /GladiatorFury/Gauntlet/Demon.

https://rapidshare.com/#!download|663p1...BD61ECDCF80|0|0

it's a .rar file, which means you need to un-rar, win-zip will do this, but you can get freeware called 7-zip which works just fine. google it.

download 7-zip, install, and right click .rar file, extract to wherever you want it.

It's a pdf, you need abobe acrobat or another pdf reader. You may know this but if not.....

You will see a lot of RAF aircraft with red/white/blue/yellow circles in all six places prewar - Early Spitfires, Blenheims and Battles spring to mind. It seems to have been common shortly after the introduction of camouflage, before being overtaken by the red/blue roundels associated with the post-Munich period. I don't recall seeing photos of Furies (or indeed Hurricanes) with these but can't say they didn't. Perhaps Mike Bowyer describes the use in this period in more detail?

Hurricanes for sure, like 111 Sq when first in service.

HTH

T

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Tamiya, what are you up to?

Some of you may remember my entry for the WHIF group build, namely the Swedish Me 262 and the hassle I had with the undersurface grey

aa5a718a.jpg

As soon as I applied it by brush it dried/cured or whatever it does. When I removed it, it came off like latex glue.

So warily, I applied a brand new dark earth XF-52 from a bottle (thoroughly stirred) and this happened

291cd01e.jpg

the total opposite! It looks like it was pre thinned for an airbrush. It was a completely different consistency to the grey.

So it looks like I will need two or three more coats to get an even finish. Goodness knows how the dark green will go on.

Does Tamiya have a standard formula for its paints?

Ho hum more soon.

Trevor

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Tamiya Acrylic paints don't really like to be brush painted, as you are aware acrylic tends to try a lot faster than enamel based paints. Maybe you'd like to try those instead, or buy an airbrush :-)

Adam

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Tamiya Acrylic paints don't really like to be brush painted, as you are aware acrylic tends to try a lot faster than enamel based paints. Maybe you'd like to try those instead, or buy an airbrush :-)

Adam

My glacial output couldn't really justify an airbrush and compressor and I am going off enamels - Humbrol are bad (varnishing their dark earth makes it go darker) and I have also had bad experiences with Revell enamels too. My favourite was Lifecolor but Modelzone (the only brand of model shop in my neck of the woods) stopped stocking them several years ago.

I'll just have to grit my teeth and get on with it.

Trevor

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I'll summon up the courage to download the 7-zip file this weekend.

Fear not - I was in the same position a year or so ago and found the 7-zip installation and subsequent use to be quite painless.

I am going off enamels - Humbrol are bad

Another shared experience. The only way I could get the Humbrol product to behave even approximately well was to mix the living bejeezus out of it by rolling it in a toy rock tumbler for two or three hours, and even after that, the matt surface appearance was nonuniform. At least the mixing seemed to help it to dry in a reasonable amount of time.

John

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My glacial output couldn't really justify an airbrush and compressor and I am going off enamels - Humbrol are bad (varnishing their dark earth makes it go darker) and I have also had bad experiences with Revell enamels too. My favourite was Lifecolor but Modelzone (the only brand of model shop in my neck of the woods) stopped stocking them several years ago.

I'll just have to grit my teeth and get on with it.

Trevor

Trevor

If you have to brush Tamiya acrylics, get a bottle of the Tamiya acrylic retarder. Add a few drops (experiment with it) to keep the paint from drying so quickly and it will brush quite nicely. The same retarder also works with Gunze acrylics if your hobby store still stocks that.

In a pinch, the Tamiya acrylic thinner works too, but if you brush across a spot too often, the thinner will remove the underlying acrylic paint (learned this from experience).

peter

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  • 8 years later...

Blimey this is a blast from the past @Troy Smith tagged it in another thread. I’d completely forgot I even had a build here on it! No idea why it didn’t get finished and the model sits in a drawer pretty much as you see it above. I’ll check to see if I still have all the bits. If I do then this may qualify as Britmodeller’s slowest build 😆.

 

Trevor

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59 minutes ago, Max Headroom said:

Blimey this is a blast from the past @Troy Smith tagged it in another thread. I’d completely forgot I even had a build here on it! No idea why it didn’t get finished and the model sits in a drawer pretty much as you see it above. I’ll check to see if I still have all the bits. If I do then this may qualify as Britmodeller’s slowest build 😆.

 

Trevor

Indeedy! 

Regarding brushing Tamiya acrylic.

Get a small syringe, mine is 1ml and some Winsor and Newton flow improver (though a tiny amount of washing up liquide maye do it.  I had the flow improver)

Suck up 0.95 ml distilled or deionised water (I got some deionised in the supermarket for use in irons) and then 0.05ml flow improver, and shake.

Plainwater may work, the FI break down surface tension though.  

Use a flat brush.

Stir Tamiya  throughly, add a little to a palette, add water/FI mix a drop at a time until it flows, think milk like.   It then brushes thinly,   does not dry instantly or lift if overbrushed, but it is thin. 

Still dries fast, and can be recoated as soon as touch dry.     

 

I have now happily brushed Tamiya, vallejo Model Color, and with a bit more  flow improver, Xtracrylix. 

 

It needs to brush smoothly and flow,  you will need several coats, but it makes brushing acrylics do able.   

@PlaStix  made a video on 'how to'  

https://youtu.be/QwdZtF_dpDY

 

HTH

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