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Hasegawa 1/48 Phantom


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Only one build thread from me, as it seems silly to have two threads and build the same kit in both. (especially as I'll be building both side by side, until the painting!) May split them then, we will see.

I have two 1/48 Hasegawa Phantom to start this part of the GB, one is unboxed, this is the other one I will be working on, but it won't be built as a RN version.

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I'm planing not to use to much after markets on these builds, so it will be Eduard sets for the cockpits on these, (also probably for the ejector seats as well, (no resin) and the Xtradecal for the marking of XT874

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XT874, is the classic 1970 Bear hunter, Marking I saw many times on various trips to different bases with the ATC, and numerous airshows.

500_24-43-SQN-PHANTOM-INTERCEPT-OF-BEAR(18-19).jpg

XT863 is the classic IAT83 marking (but the kit decals need improving, so it will be a job to get this one looking right.

XT863-G111Sdnsp.jpg

Already to go now.

Dave

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Nice choices Dave, should be good :yahoo:

Bexy

Well as you know, I plan to get these done quickly and then do two more, (maybe not even British ones) we will see. just wish I felt better so near the start.

Dave

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Just realized my first job is going to be filing and sanding, oh lovely. as XT863 is going to be clean, no stores, no pylons all the sway braces have to go from the bottom wing, and the holes filled. I seem to becoming a bit of a Expert on doing this. ie heres two I have done earlier.

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Remember people, the sway braces are parts of the pylons, not the wings, so if your bird is clean, you need to remove them

Dave

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XT863 is the classic IAT83 marking (but the kit decals need improving, so it will be a job to get this one looking right.

XT863-G111Sdnsp.jpg

Great to see this photo of Tremblers' "G" when she was newly painted up. I was working in ASF at Leuchars while this paint job was underway, I have some photos somewhere that show the original 892 Sqn red fin markings appearing from underneath the grey/green camo as it was sanded down to be primed up. The other interesting thing about this paint job is that it was originally intended to be a Black Arrow, as "Mike" ended up carrying a few years later. She was primed up with the roundels and tail flash masked off waiting for permission which Strike command refused so she got the low viz grey with the high viz markings.

Edited by Duncan B
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Well Finally made a start today, still coughing, but the chest infection seems to be giving in to the new Antibiotics (about time, 5 weeks is no bloody fun)

I've decided to use the seamless intakes on the IAT 83 bird, so I've started by removing the sway braces, filling the pylon holes and perparing her for a totally clean underbelly bar the sky flashes. (I'd be really greatful to know if she was carrying two, (forward) or all four (i'll be check more reference pictures for this later)

Anyway wings being filled, made some sprue plugs to fit, cut and sanded them down, removed the sway braces and then filled any lumps and dents, When I feel a bit better, I'll do a final sand, and recut any lost lines.

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I've also fitted the seamless intakes, I have to say, I'm quite impressed with the fit.

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Next up is the cockpit and fitting an Eduard zoom set to it,

397105189.jpg

Dave

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Done a bit more this afternoon, calling it a day now,

basically I can't do anything till the cockpit is finished and in place, so thats what I have been working on.

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not a perfect FG Mk1 Cockpit, but good enough for me, and thats who I build my models for....

The intake fit seems quite good, but we will see when I come to glue it all together.

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bit off fetaling in a few places, to do, but generally I'm quite happy with it at present,

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Hopeful if all goes well tomorrow, I should be sealing it all up, and looking at sanding and panel lines

397107754.jpg

Dave

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Nice to see you back building albeit not still 100% Dave

Whose are the Intakes BTW ?

Thanks John.

the Intakes are Dmolds, they look wide, as there no backing plates on them yet, once there in place and the splitter plates are on, it should look more correct. Finished for the day now, sadly need to rest some still.

Cheers Mate

Dave

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Well Finally made a start today, still coughing, but the chest infection seems to be giving in to the new Antibiotics (about time, 5 weeks is no bloody fun)

I've decided to use the seamless intakes on the IAT 83 bird, so I've started by removing the sway braces, filling the pylon holes and perparing her for a totally clean underbelly bar the sky flashes. (I'd be really greatful to know if she was carrying two, (forward) or all four (i'll be check more reference pictures for this later)

Dave

Hope you're feeling better Dave. To answer your question on the Skyflash fit on XT863, there were only the two fitted in the forward wells. A picture in the Osprey book on the Spey Phantom clearly shows the empty rear wells. I've probably got other pictures, but that was the first clear shot I could find.

Jonathan

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Hope you're feeling better Dave. To answer your question on the Skyflash fit on XT863, there were only the two fitted in the forward wells. A picture in the Osprey book on the Spey Phantom clearly shows the empty rear wells. I've probably got other pictures, but that was the first clear shot I could find.

Jonathan

2 x drill rounds were normally carried as ballast in the front recesses to help with stability, they would usually have been blue all over but were painted up on this occasion to look more like the real thing.

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Thanks guys. (and for the wishes regarding my health)

Still far from 100% at present, but today I actually do fell a little better, maybe the pain in my upper back is a good sign to of being on the mend.

Well I'm suprized (I actually spotted the error before any one else!) I never noticed it, the kit I started building was a doner from a kind Britmodeller a few years back, what I never noticed is the catapult pieces have been placed in the wing, so sadly I can't build this as a FG MK1!!!! (ie no cat hooks!!!)

397105190.jpg

So I'm going to have to rework this as a FGR2 now, fortunately I have not made any changes to the cockpit (and built it as a FGR2) so now I need to find FGR2 marking to suit this, over what I had planned. Bar humbug!!! Doh!!!!

I've got several options, ie I can change out the wings, as there not glued, or change out the fuses which has been cut to take the Dmold intakes, I really need to have a think as I wanted to put thoses on something special over just another camo painted FGR2. clearly not not my thinking head on due to this infection. (but at least I have numerous escape routes as nothing is really glued in place yet.

:shithappens: :raincloud::hanging:

Dave

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Hmm, that's a pain.

Couldn't you consider getting the blanking plates off and replacing them with the correct ones for the hooks? I assume you have the correct ones hanging around? I have some otherwise which I can send you

If I was in this situation I would consider:

1) Risking popping the wings open, then cut them out and replace with the correct parts from the inside, but more likely I would have a go at the following:

2) Drill/cut the wrong parts out and then:

fit something to the new part so you can hold it in the hole WITHOUT it dropping inside

remove the lip of the correct part so you push in from the outside

glue plasticard onto the base of the correct part until you can push it into the correct depth to fit flush with the base of the wing

done.

Ian

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Hmm, that's a pain.

It is indeed, but thankfully it was not uncommon for FGR2 to fly with no payload, so I'll just change the wings in another kit. (or I may even re-drill the wing tank holes and use!) i've still got various options thankfully and other phantom kits for parts, just anoying that I never oticed it from the start, but thats the way things go!

Dave

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Well I'm suprized (I actually spotted the error before any one else!) I never noticed it, the kit I started building was a doner from a kind Britmodeller a few years back, what I never noticed is the catapult pieces have been placed in the wing, so sadly I can't build this as a FG MK1!!!! (ie no cat hooks!!!)

397105190.jpg

So I'm going to have to rework this as a FGR2 now, fortunately I have not made any changes to the cockpit (and built it as a FGR2) so now I need to find FGR2 marking to suit this, over what I had planned. Bar humbug!!! Doh!!!!

Dave

Don't forget that the FG1 had slotted stabilators and the FGR2 didn't Dave.....well I say didn't..........

XV420BT.jpg

Edited by Bill Clark
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Bill your such a tease. ;)

Thankfully slabs are not a problem, I have a few kits so I can change them round, and mix and match as needed. I think when I'm feeling better (and I'm start to wonder if I ever will?) I'll start the RN boxed FG1 but chop the fuselage parts for the ones with the Dmolds fitted. and make a FG MK1 with the Dmold intakes and use the Xtradecal sheet as I planned. (I'll put XT863) on hold for another time and use that FGR2 wing platform on a standard FGR2 drill out the wing tank holes, and just build a standard FGR2 using after market decals (maybe XV498)

Always a solution if you look for it.

Dave

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Bill,

When I was based at Wattisham in the late-80s, early-90s, a number of the FGR.2s received slatted stabilators as the FG.1s were being scrapped on base.

They were sad times! :-(

Regards

Graham

Don't forget that the FG1 had slotted stabilators and the FGR2 didn't Dave.....well I say didn't..........

XV420BT.jpg

Edited by ghaynes
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Bill,

When I was based at Wattisham in the late-80s, early-90s, a number of the FGR.2s received slatted stabilators as the FG.1s were being scrapped on base.

They were sad times! :-(

Regards

Graham

Thanks Graham, I took that photo at Mildenhall - back in the late 80's and assumed that that was why XV420 had them. I've not seen details of any other FGR2 having them though, it would be good to find out the others.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right nearly ready to try again with this one, feeling a bit better now, after they have confirmed at least the presence of one DVT in my left leg, and it's possable I did have some form of clot on the lung as well. thankfully the meds are seeming to take affect and I have another week off work at least, so I might be able to finish this one quickly.

I've decided to re-drill the holes in the wing plate later, and use it on a FGR2 build due to the hook fairings already being in place, so I will put them away for now until I decide where I'm going and have a major sort out of the two started built kits I have and rethink where I'm going with them. (Especially as one of the kits has resin semless in takes, so I want that one to be a special build. So what I have decided is to open the second kit I had ready for this build, pull the wings out of it, and replace them with the ones I have worked on, and set that kit up ready to build as a FGR2 later.

So I will continue building a FG MK1 as planned (and with the resin intakes) and do the bear hunter I wanted to do, first, and put XT863 on hold for a while. the next one will probabaly be a FGR2 (with the worked wing plate) that will cure the problem.

Dave

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Well after a quick sort out I'm ready to restart. (not really cheating as I did build the cockpit, and fit the resin intakes at the start of the GB, so all I have done is have a sort out of parts to correct an error I didn't see until it was nearly too late. (ie the wings had FGR2 cover plates in the hook area.

so this is my restart line

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and to prevent the same error, I have marked the wingplate as FGR2, and sorted the box so it oly has FGR bits in, ie FG MK1 nose door removed, and FGR2 unslotted slabs added and the slotted ones put on the above build. hopefully I won't mant the same error again, just greatful I noticed the FGR2 covers had been added before glueing the wings on to the above fuselage.

397405168.jpg

The above should now aleart me that it needs to be a FGR2 before I restart it.

:shithappens:

Dave

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Amazing what you can do in a couple of hours when thigs go right, and fall in to place.

had a few small, and one big problem, but I'm sure i'll get round it, and as it's underneath it not a visable issue unless you look. (sadly the plastic cracked around the nose door housing, but I've sealed and glued it with super glue, some filling and sanding, cut a few panel lines on it, and it should be fine.

anyway, we have gone from the pile of bits above to the following.

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the white stuff is tipex, which will I find is brilliant for small gaps, and it removes really easy, it much easier to fill and remove the excess after a few hours with a blunt stick, after doing this, anything left causing a problem needs filler

Had a slight issue with the intakes, (my error) but now sorted, remember to paint the fan blades, and intake trunking white before fitting.

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The cockpit fit was fine, I have some resin bang seats some where, if I can find them I might use them but if not I'll use a eduard set on the kits (as they look pretty good with these fitted)

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I've put a first coat of alclads on the jet pipes and slabs, much more to do here, but getting a early coat on allows it to dry well and easier to work on, I find.

So now it drying, ready for sanding, filling and panel work tomorrow, hope to have some undercoat on it before to long, but not going rush it, hence leaving it to dry now, so I can sand and fill as needed tomorrow.

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more piccys here http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/23805875

Dave

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Well I woke up the next day, and made my way to the garage after breakfast, to find the kit with three massive cracks in it. one on the underside, and one on each side from the splitter plates mounting and right up to the windscreen on one side, the other was thankfully not as bad, but as unwelcome as the first.

here I have highlighted the crack with Mr surfacer so you can see the extent it ran too.

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on the underside one side had just split like a banana, you can see the crack if you look hard, and this was from using the kits cockpit if I had used a aires set I could have understood it.

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So I've spent the best part of two days, carefully filling the gap with super glue and kicking it then after sanding most of the panel lines off the nose I decided to recut not only those, but 99% of them over the entire model.

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Knowing how hard some spooks were worked I wanted the panel lines to show on this one, so that meant recutting most of them and repairing the damaged ones due to the repairs, not sure how well these will show, but I'm hoping with a paint and wash, they will stand out a lot on this one.

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so this is where I am now, got about 3 spots to re-work, and then I'm ready for paint, as you can see I've started on the nose, but it far from finished long way to go yet, but at least it's not going in the bin, as I though it might have to yesterday.

397456228.jpg

Edited by zero
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Sounds a nightmare, I suffered a similar, but much less significant, issue with a Hasegawa F-14 a few months ago, the nose and intakes started cracking without any real stress on them (to my mind) at all. I admire your motivation to tackle them with such significant cracks and good save for getting back to where you are now.

Ian

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Thanks Guys.

I have to be honest I had a bit of a downer about it, of late, everything I touch turns to lead. (ie nothing has gone right recently in both in life (got some serious health issues including another DVT, and also in my modelling, basically since Christmas my motivation has been nil) I was so tempted to put my foot through it, but it was Steves post on facebook that made me aware just how difficult 1/48 British spooks are to get, and so I though I'd give it a go at saving it. sadly it probably will never be perfect on the underside, but I've tried to re-engrave what was lost only time will tell.

the only think I can think of, is the kits have been in the garage over a year, in a box on the floor, it does get cold out there in the winter so I'm wondering if this made the plastic brittle, the only think I can think of, over the other that have lived in the loft.

I don't think I'm home with this one yet, but I have a good chance of winning, The seamless intakes being fitted, made it worth trying to salvage, hopefully there a chance of still making it in to a good model.

Thanks again chaps

Dave

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