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Hi,

I had previously asked if some started builds could be elligible for the GB and I was told to post some pics.

Jorge.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71040

Sadly they all look well over 25% to me, I've started new builds, for the GB over finishing two I have nearly done.

Dave

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http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71040

Sadly they all look well over 25% to me, I've started new builds, for the GB over finishing two I have nearly done.

Dave

Thanks for the fast reply Dave.

I still hope to use the GB as inspiration and hopefully complete at least a couple of them before the year is over! :analintruder:

My best wishes to all moderators and participants.

Yours truly,

Jorge.

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Thanks for your input Dave, sorry Ive been out all day......... Jorge, I hope the GB helps you with your Phantom builds :yahoo:

Bexy

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Hi, can anybody suggest the closest Humbrol matches for this colour scheme

DSCF0041-1.jpg

The Instructions call out Tan, Medium green, Dark green for the camo and Grey/close to white for the undersides.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Chris

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Hi, can anybody suggest the closest Humbrol matches for this colour scheme

DSCF0041-1.jpg

The Instructions call out Tan, Medium green, Dark green for the camo and Grey/close to white for the undersides.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Chris

Chris

The standard SEA camo scheme (as here) is Tan FS30219, Dk Green FS34079, green FS34102, and the underside is FS36622. Some very early Phantoms had white underside apparently, but FS36622 is sufficiently pale to make it hard to confirm.

Ted

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Hi, can anybody suggest the closest Humbrol matches for this colour scheme

<snip>

The Instructions call out Tan, Medium green, Dark green for the camo and Grey/close to white for the undersides.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Chris

Chris

The standard SEA camo scheme (as here) is Tan FS30219, Dk Green FS34079, green FS34102, and the underside is FS36622. Some very early Phantoms had white underside apparently, but FS36622 is sufficiently pale to make it hard to confirm.

Ted

The Humbrol paints you want are:

Tan FS30219 = Humbrol 118 - US TAN

Dk Green FS34079 = Humbrol 116 - US DARK GREEN

Green FS34102 = Humbrol 117 - US LIGHT GREEN

Grey FS36622 = Humbrol 28 - CAMOFLAGE GREY

I use these paints for my SEA Schemes and Ive done 2 of them with more to come so HTH :thumbsup2:

Bexy

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The Humbrol paints you want are:

Tan FS30219 = Humbrol 118 - US TAN

Dk Green FS34079 = Humbrol 116 - US DARK GREEN

Green FS34102 = Humbrol 117 - US LIGHT GREEN

Grey FS36622 = Humbrol 28 - CAMOFLAGE GREY

I use these paints for my SEA Schemes and Ive done 2 of them with more to come so HTH :thumbsup2:

Bexy

Awesome, thank you both. Not far from starting the top coats now

Cheers

Chris

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Awesome, thank you both. Not far from starting the top coats now

Cheers

Chris

Youre welcome Chris, anytime :thumbsup2:

Bexy

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Thanks for your input Dave, sorry Ive been out all day......... Jorge, I hope the GB helps you with your Phantom builds :yahoo:

Bexy

Thanks for the reply Bexy. Wish I had found out about the GB earlier. I could have planned things differently.

But I promise to be ready for the 100th F-4 Anniversary GB! I will be 99 by then, but plan to still be around!!! :P

All the best,

Jorge.

Edited by f4h1phantom
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I have another question regarding SEA camo. Whats the best order for applying the three colours, Dark green, light green then the tan or the other way round :shrug:

I've painted and masked the underside and ready to do the camo

Cheers

Chris

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Dave,

They're the trunnion covers for the main landing gear used on Navy/British Phantoms. The F-4E wasn't fitted with them so you can safely sand them off.

Jonathan

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I have another question regarding SEA camo. Whats the best order for applying the three colours, Dark green, light green then the tan or the other way round :shrug:

I've painted and masked the underside and ready to do the camo

Cheers

Chris

Always the lightest colors first, in my opinion, much easier to lay a darker color over a lighter one than vice versa.

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Always the lightest colors first, in my opinion, much easier to lay a darker color over a lighter one than vice versa.
:ditto:

Cheers, I have put a coat of tan on first (it came out rough so it will get another)

chris

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Cheers, I have put a coat of tan on first (it came out rough so it will get another)

chris

Chris, with Humbrol enamels, I find you need atleast 3 coats for it to look right and also depends on the plastic too :doh:

Bexy

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Hi Folks

I was down for this but got quite a lot on at the mo so may not be able to join in at the moment, sorry about this, please can I be excused from this one ?

All the best

Chris

Edited by bigbadbadge
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I've posted this info on another thread but it will be more relevant here.

There is a full-size aircraft cockpit event called Cockpit Fest, which takes place at the Newark Air Museum, Lincolnshire on the weekend of 18/19 June.

There will be a couple of Phantom cockpits there including an RAF, FGR2 and a Luftwaffe RF-4E. Certainly the FGR2 will be open for access and is complete so it will be a good chance to get some cockpit reference pics for those of the GB-ers who are doing UK jets. There will also be a UK Phantom Martin-Baker Mk.7 seat displayed separately for more reference pics and colour detail, should anyone want it.

I will get some pics anyway and post them when I get back.

Still gotta dig out my Tamiya F-4J kit and get started on my GB entry.

MM.

Edited by MeteorMike
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can anyone tell me what the difference is between the f-4j and f-4s?

cheers

Ok IIRC, vents near the front U/C bay are different, ie staggered; the F4S had strengthening plates that were situated fore of the U/C bays, and ran across the fuselage between the two. The leading edge slats are different.

Try this for a look at the plates (or strap) on the underside http://nautilusmodels.com/32-701.htm

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Or try to track down an F4S. The Hasegawa kit comes with the plates as a P/E fret, and the additional wing fences inboard of the slats. They appear on eBay every now and again, either the Midway low viz boxing or the Red Rock ( I think ) boxing. Builds as per any Hasegawa F4, but when I did mine, I used the P/E fret as a template and made plasticard replacements for the strap, as in my experience, Hasegawa P/E can be a bugger to stick down.

Personally, the F4S is my favourite. I'd love about four for the stash!

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