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Dragon Jagdpanther (Late Production).


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#21 Andy K

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 07:52 PM

I found the tracks to be OK personally. The way I do it is to dry fit the wheels to the axles then make up the tracks and glue them to the road wheels, when completely dry you can remove them as a complete sub assembly. It makes painting a bit awkward but at least you get the tracks to fit OK.

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By the way thanks for the heads up about the other track links that fit the sprocket. I did'nt figure that one out. D'OH! :D

Edited by Andy K, 25 May 2011 - 07:54 PM.


#22 Siggi

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 08:04 PM

I found the tracks to be OK personally. The way I do it is to dry fit the wheels to the axles then make up the tracks and glue them to the road wheels, when completely dry you can remove them as a complete sub assembly. It makes painting a bit awkward but at least you get the tracks to fit OK.

Posted Image

By the way thanks for the heads up about the other track links that fit the sprocket. I did'nt figure that one out. D'OH! :D


I couldn't be dealing with painting the wheels and tracks like that, I'd end up sectioned. :lol: I reckon the tracks could be tack-glued to the wheels though and removed after they'd dried. Not an option for this time though.

#23 Mick Modeller

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 12:18 PM

I found the tracks to be OK personally. The way I do it is to dry fit the wheels to the axles then make up the tracks and glue them to the road wheels, when completely dry you can remove them as a complete sub assembly. It makes painting a bit awkward but at least you get the tracks to fit OK.

Posted Image

By the way thanks for the heads up about the other track links that fit the sprocket. I did'nt figure that one out. D'OH! :D


Good paint job, you've worked the dirt demarkation really well!! Very true to life!!

You can see the demarcation lines here, the result of pounding around Soltau training area for a couple of weeks.

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Another pic to help people get those wanting to get their tracks right, if you look at the shine on the visable portions of the tracks, this appeared after a matter of hours and was actually reflective at distance. The area of the tracks contacted by road-wheels, idlers etc got particularly shiny, almost to the degree of mirror shine, once static the tracks very quickly got a rust coating, in wet conditions rusting in 24hrs or less, but being high quality steel they never got really rusty, if you know what I mean.

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#24 alanmac

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 02:23 PM

I'm working on getting into the Jagdpanther, but from what I've seen/heard she is "Bombed-up" with either real or dummy KwK 43s, certainly the gun is live and at one military show she fired a blank and the noise was reported as being quite impresive....... Certainly the gun was reportedly a dig-up where the previous owner having used them in an Anti-Tank role burried them to prevent them being captured, perhaps PAK 43/3 mit Behelfslafettes.



Here are a couple of clips of the Jagdpanther you mention if its of interest.

first up is it running, with the second clip of it firing.

Restored Jagdpanther

Restored Jagdpanther firing.

Alan

#25 bruce3371

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 06:25 PM

Another pic to help people get those wanting to get their tracks right, if you look at the shine on the visable portions of the tracks, this appeared after a matter of hours and was actually reflective at distance. The area of the tracks contacted by road-wheels, idlers etc got particularly shiny, almost to the degree of mirror shine, once static the tracks very quickly got a rust coating, in wet conditions rusting in 24hrs or less, but being high quality steel they never got really rusty, if you know what I mean.


That's some very usefull information there, thanks.

Back on topic, looking very nice.

I know Dragon models are starting to overtake Tamiya in terms of quality of detail (if they haven't already!), but how do they compare in terms of prices?

#26 alanmac

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 09:00 AM

Hi

If you go shopping for pastels to create your own weathering powders, be sure to get Chalk Pastels not Oil pastels. Check out some Supermarkets as they carry art items on occasions, although I get a lot of my bits from Hobbycraft(expensive in comparison), Poundland or The Works but these may not be outlets in your area.

Alan

#27 rookie

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 11:09 AM

That is looking great, the salt work's fantastic.

#28 Siggi

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:49 AM

That's some very usefull information there, thanks.

Back on topic, looking very nice.

I know Dragon models are starting to overtake Tamiya in terms of quality of detail (if they haven't already!), but how do they compare in terms of prices?


The Dragon stuff is more expensive, but when you see what extra you get for the extra cost I reckon it's worth every penny.

#29 Siggi

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 05:03 PM

Another make-over, it was too orange before (which didn't show in the pics, but it was pretty bad). Crappy photo I'm afraid, my photography mojo was worse than usual, this was the only useable pic out of over twenty.

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Tracks are on order and while I'm waiting on those I'll do some titivating, including a coat of matt.

#30 Siggi

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:10 AM

The bleach and white vinegar, in a 50/50 mix, is 100% confirmed to do the tracks very nicely. If brown vinegar is used it deposits a rusty effect too, though not sufficient to obviate the need for painting. I tried various ratios of bleach to vinegar but 50/50 is definitely the best. I scrubbed the assembled tracks with a toothbrush and washing-up liquid first. The links start going grey within a minute and after about five minutes I'm not sure they go any greyer. Paint goes on much better too, I guess the oxidised surface provides a very good key. I made up a tin of oil sienna wash and submerged the tracks in it to make sure every part of each link had at least that coat on them. Followed up with a burnt umber wash, brushed on quite thick, to hit all the raised parts. They probably need a matt coat now, they're borderline sheenyish.

Edited by Siggi, 27 June 2011 - 08:11 AM.


#31 Siggi

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 04:10 PM

I fitted the tracks but they didn't look right, too much redish-brown, so I went over them with some more washes and pigments in water and re-fitted them, I reckon they're good now. Not that the pic shows much of them.

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