mrvr6 Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 iv started this while im waitin for filler to dry on the tsr2 the phoon is a dinky toy in comparison lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 You aren't kidding - the way you are going it will be done by this evening... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 You aren't kidding - the way you are going it will be done by this evening... lol not this 1 im gonna mow the lawn in a min then im knackered and have to be up at 5 in the mornin so not much will be done tonight ps i swore id finish 1 before i started another err it lasted 4 hours lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 little bit of progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 is it ok to use a bit of brass rod? ( to secure the canards and still allow them to move Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 im using tamiya x1 gloss black with about 40% thinners what am i doing wrong its all patchy?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 tamiya rattlecan ftw expensive but blimey it works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 wow where did this sneak from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royster Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Whoa! That shines like a penny up a chimney sweeps backside! Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham77 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Fantastic looking Eurofighter are you going for a whif or DA2 the BAe development one? I see no problem with a bit of brass rod, I think it would count as scratchbuilding rather than aftermarket and it doesn't really change the look just add a bit of stability. Missed this one aswell but have a soft spot for DA2 so will be watching with interest as its a kit and project I have in the stash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 i think its zh588 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham77 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 ZH588 is the 2nd development aircraft (DA2). The gloss back scheme looks great on the typhoon, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) iv taken that incase i stuff up the 3 part gloss coat (paint hardner and thinners) its ready for final coat wheels refit the canards and then its done Edited May 24, 2011 by mrvr6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 That's an excellent finish, look at the reflection of the tail number on the wing! J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Blimey, that looks fabulous John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 i didnt dare try the glosscoat tonight lol iv done a bit on the tsr2 instead it gets very complicated this modding lark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 yup i think the gloss coats fcuked up!! its not dry so il know in the morning but right now it looks like fekin sand papar REALLY bitty full of tiny depressions/holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfurm Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I've found gloss finish to be nightmare to do. I just get pebble/orange peel effect all the time. Even gloss pait comes out crap. Your rattle can Typhoon looked great, shame it went down from there. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundown Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I'm really tempted to build my Revell kit as DA2 having seen this, great work! Can I ask what decals you're using? I've never seen any sheets for ZH588. I'm sure the clearcoat isn't so bad that you can't salvage it. Just give it plenty of time to harden (48hrs) then rub down lightly with some micro mesh and have another go. I don't know what size nozzle you're using but when spraying 2-part clearcoat through my 0.3 nozzle it needs more thinners to prevent the dreaded 'orange peel'! Another tip is to spray a mist 'tack' coat then apply a 'wet' final coat a few minutes afterwards. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 I'm really tempted to build my Revell kit as DA2 having seen this, great work! Can I ask what decals you're using? I've never seen any sheets for ZH588.I'm sure the clearcoat isn't so bad that you can't salvage it. Just give it plenty of time to harden (48hrs) then rub down lightly with some micro mesh and have another go. I don't know what size nozzle you're using but when spraying 2-part clearcoat through my 0.3 nozzle it needs more thinners to prevent the dreaded 'orange peel'! Another tip is to spray a mist 'tack' coat then apply a 'wet' final coat a few minutes afterwards. HTH its a revell kit purely by accident i seem to have 2 different single seat typhoon by revell i hope its not a rae kit that im making a pigs ear of i dont know what size nozzle iv got its the stock needle afaik iv got some micromesh iv have a go at it in a couple of days i did the tack coat then wet coat it didnt seem to make any difference at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundown Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) If it's Zero clearcoat I would be tempted to add more thinners and spray at a pressure of about 20psi. Do you know the part number for the Revell kit with the DA2 markings? I know the italeri boxing of the eurofighter comes with these markings but the kit's not as good. Edited May 25, 2011 by Sundown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 If it's Zero clearcoat I would be tempted to add more thinners and spray at a pressure of about 20psi.Do you know the part number for the Revell kit with the DA2 markings? I know the italeri boxing of the eurofighter comes with these markings but the kit's not as good. il find the box tommorow mate yeah its zero glosscoat i tend to spray at 15 psi about 2 inches from the model is that ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundown Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I normally spray a clearcoat at around 3-4", you will cover more with each pass without the paint building up too quickly. Technically you should spray at the lowest pressure you can but if you're using too little pressure the paint won't atomize sufficiently and the paint will spatter. Equally too much pressure and the paint will dry before it hits the surface resulting in a rough texture, I find that 20psi is the happy medium that suits my airbrush. It's not easy to see the clearcoat so test spray on some matt coloured card and if it seems to be spattering add a drop or two more thinners until you get a fine spray. Have a look at the decals to see if the same texture appears in the clearcoat that covers them. If not and it is only textured over the black areas, it may be that the paint has reacted to the paint underneath though I think it's unlikely (but not impossible). I'm sure you already do, but please wear a decent respirator when using this stuff, it's nasty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 I normally spray a clearcoat at around 3-4", you will cover more with each pass without the paint building up too quickly. Technically you should spray at the lowest pressure you can but if you're using too little pressure the paint won't atomize sufficiently and the paint will spatter. Equally too much pressure and the paint will dry before it hits the surface resulting in a rough texture, I find that 20psi is the happy medium that suits my airbrush. It's not easy to see the clearcoat so test spray on some matt coloured card and if it seems to be spattering add a drop or two more thinners until you get a fine spray.Have a look at the decals to see if the same texture appears in the clearcoat that covers them. If not and it is only textured over the black areas, it may be that the paint has reacted to the paint underneath though I think it's unlikely (but not impossible). I'm sure you already do, but please wear a decent respirator when using this stuff, it's nasty! not got a respirator and yeh it is nasty iv bodged myself a spray booth together so il only spray it there from now on i hold the model upto a light and watch the reflection to check coverage its the same on the decals so it isnt a reaction il leave it a day or so to harden then il mesh it and go again but add more thinner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 i hate paint it looked great before i put the top coat on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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