Aeroclub Harry Tate

[dylan the rabbit]

Call it insanity if you like, but my next project's going to be the Aeroclub 1/48th RE8.

I've never worked with white metal before, so I'm going to need some tips. Can anyone recommend any websites they use as reference, or at least give me a pointer as to what tools I'm going to need? There's a lot of cleanup going to be needed on this one.

In addition, the 4 blade prop has split in half, right across the ring mount. Can this be superglued, or should I look at soldering it (bearing in mind I haven't a clue how to do this).

Cheers guys,

Nick

[Mike]

If you're glueing it, epoxy is better than CA, as it's more resistant to shearing stress. The ideal would be to solder it, which would give the best join, but you'd need to use a temperature controlled soldering iron & low melt solder. I think white metal melts roughly around the 150 degree mark, so you need to get hold of an iron that can do around 90 degrees & solder that melts that low. If you try & use the ordinary stuff, you'll just melt the metal first

I looked into it before, but didn't take it very far, as suitable irons are quite expensive...

[dylan the rabbit]

Cheers Mike,

I'll see if I can get a mechanic to look at it. Sounds like a ballache though. Maybe I'll just epoxy it. Which type do you recommend?

Also, I presume metal files are the way to go to clean the parts up?

Thanks,

Nick

[Darius at Home]

Nick

Having broken the white metal props on my PP Aeroparts Firefly FR5 more than once, one method I have used is to drill small holes in each side of the break and then super glue the prop back with a snipped length of sewing pin in the holes. The holes have to be reasonably accurate to ensure proper alignment. I have found this to work pretty well - also for wheels snapped off at the axles etc.

Darius

[Mike]

Nick

Having broken the white metal props on my PP Aeroparts Firefly FR5 more than once, one method I have used is to drill small holes in each side of the break and then super glue the prop back with a snipped length of sewing pin in the holes. The holes have to be reasonably accurate to ensure proper alignment. I have found this to work pretty well - also for wheels snapped off at the axles etc.

Darius

Yeah - I used to use the same technique to attach my Warhammer 40k figures arms to the body. It is stronger, but still manages to pull away sometimes.