turnerdad Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 (edited) I was talking to a modelling bud recently and we got onto the subject of raised panel lines, and basically he said along the lines of: "Isn't it a pain that once rubbed down, they are lost for good? Especially across fuselage halves". I explained a tip I've been using for years that works very well, and is very useful when doing quick or commercial builds, when I just don't have the time to rescribe the model. Also, I just happened to be building a Tamiya Lanc for my bosses office, pretty much a straightforward OOB build, and so it looks similar to some of the models that we produce commercially. The tip goes like this: I use 3M masking tape and have 2 thickness which covers pretty much all needs. Tape off the lost line, using the remaining line as a guide being careful to keep the thickness uniform. When happy, fill in gaps with masking tape of your choice... Then build up very light coats of Halfords primer (I like the grey plastic primer, I find the white stuff too thin). Keep the coats very light, too heavy and it could soak under the masking tape and you'll end up with a mess. This pic shows how much I generally mist on to start with. Leave it for a goo 15 minutes before adding more coats, as you need to let the primer air dry. After about 15 or so coats it should look something like this. I should add also that the later coats can be sprayed on much wetter, as the tape will be sealed by the primer by now. Then let the whole thing dry for a couple of hours or so, and carefully demask. Use a medium stiff brush to remove residues etc, and give a light nib back with fine sandpaper, et voila, got your line back. This can be run along other jobs, so it really doesn't take any time, and the Halfords primer is an aerosol anyway, so you don't need to worry about cleaning airbrushes etc. I also use this technique to restore fairings and other raised lumpy bits. Bet you're bored now. If you do bother reading this all the way through, my special secret article word is Catweasel, and I could probably write what I like now, but I won't as I'm a peace loving hippie at heart... Cheers all Edited November 15, 2010 by turnerdad No reason.... don't bother checking, there's nothing to see 17 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 I read it all, thanks for the tip! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul A H Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Great tutorial and yes, they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 That's a good one - not just for raised lines, but for scab plates, raised stiffeners (fnerk!) and access panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 cheers mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turnerdad Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 I've been nobbled, people really do read this stuff! Topic edited... Thanks all, getting my modelling mojo back, not really been doing anything other than CAD and fairly mundane commercial stuff. Time I visited my stash I think... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Big Can'tbebothered is watching you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Thanks mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amos brierley Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 I`ve use plastic card for scab plates and so on but the thinnest plastic is 0.02 which seems a little thick, this idear sound like a better way to achieve the end result. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 great tip mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnobiz Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Great technique, thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Excellent tip, pinned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonyz6 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Just getting back into modeling again and like to research things prior to starting something and reading you tip on restoring raised lines was perfect advice so it's really good you go to the trouble to post advice as there are modelers like me out there who never stop learning and require these tips so many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetwin Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Catweasel Oh and great tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker6Recon Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Catweasle, isn't that the code word to get the lady with the whips to stop? That said, awesome article, I was skeptical when I read the title, now I am a believer. Just hope I can find a similar product here in the Philippines. I also read an article about saving clear parts from damage and removing the seam that is often left behind as well. It was another "can't be done" fix that I didn't believe was possible, yet the proof is in the pudding as they say. Here is a link for anyone interested. https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-repair-clean-and-polish-clear-parts/ Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhoenixII Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 @Stalker6Recon, morning, if you've never had the pleasure of going around a Halfords? nothing too spectacular, just a big motor factors. The primer @turnerdad talks about is intended for ABS panels, so, any motor/auto body shop should carry something similar. HTH Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker6Recon Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 3 hours ago, PhoenixII said: @Stalker6Recon, morning, if you've never had the pleasure of going around a Halfords? nothing too spectacular, just a big motor factors. The primer @turnerdad talks about is intended for ABS panels, so, any motor/auto body shop should carry something similar. HTH Paul I found a pretty large tub of autobody filler at the hardware store today, if I post the ingredients, will that help define whether its good to use? The guy even told me the you can stray it thinned out, might be perfect using this application for restoration of lost details. Also, been looking for a thinning agent for acrylics and enamels, or just a good brush cleaner, both air and regular, is paint thinner and lacquer thinner the same thing? I could not tell as both had generic labels with little detail. One did say that it was also known as mineral/white spirits. I remeber back in the day, the last thing we ran through our sprayers was mineral spirits as it cleaned the last residue and served to lube all the components within. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhoenixII Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hi @Stalker6Recon maybe! What I would have asked is, "does it work well with thermoformed plastics?" Some fillers contain chemicals that are 'hot' and will attack the plastic, so rather than filling they actually destroy the plastic. @turnerdad was using the aerosol plastic primer to replace lost raised detail, my feeling is, for this job the tub of filler you purchased would be a little bit of over kill, and quite probably too corse for the job. Stick to using it to fill seams etc. provided it doesn't attack the plastic. As most / all automotive paints these days, be they primer, undercoat or top coat, are water based (that doesn't mean automatically, you can clean up with water) and with his preferred method, a slow build up with a plastic primer is a safe way to go, if you mess up, no great loss and simple to put right, sand back and start over. As far as I know there is nothing that will thin / clean both paint types. Enamels, strangley, are very easy to clean, any proprietary type of spirit / lacquer cleaner should be OK to clean brushes. For airbrush, when / if you decide to get one, my recommendation would be clean with the paint manufacturers own thinners and for the final clean use liquid airbrush reamer. Problems occur with Acrylics, possibly with the exception of Tamiya, as their XF range are acrylic in name only, they are really a hybrid, as the Tamiya XF-20 thinners are spirit based. Most of the 'proper' acrylics are water based, i.e. Vallejo, MiG, Gunze Mr Hobby Aqueous, and just turn into gloop when they come into contact with any spirit based cleaner / thinner. Best way to clean these is with running water. Be aware, unless applied to an undercoated surface (and at times, even when applied to undercoat) Vallejo particularly, doesn't have the best grip and will lift when you apply masking to the painted surface, UNLESS, you apply some form of varnish topcoat to the dried paint before you mask. Regarding airbrush cleaning, things have moved on, by miles! The seals within the airbrush can be a little awkward!! as most I think are now teflon based? but don't do well with certain cleaners, so if you do purchase an airbrush, buy some extra seals at the same time, better safe than sorry! If I made any howlers, someone will be along shortly to put things right! Paul 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker6Recon Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, PhoenixII said: For airbrush, when / if you decide to get one, my recommendation would be clean with the paint manufacturers own thinners and for the final clean use liquid airbrush reamer. I bought a compressor from amazon, came with three airbrushes. Two have double action triggers with removable pots (is pot the right word?), the third is single action only, and the pot is screwed in from the bottom. I never used one like that, so it has remained sealed in the box. I also bought a paashe VLS1012. I have no idea if that is a good airbrush for modelling, but a few years back, I had a short window of opportunity where a friends mother was willing to ship me a lot of gear that I can't find in the Philippines. I took the offer and went on a buying spree, and I mean BUYING SPREE. So now I have the no name compressor (looks identical to the name brand compressor, just missing the name plate) and four airbrushes. 1 hour ago, PhoenixII said: Be aware, unless applied to an undercoated surface (and at times, even when applied to undercoat) Vallejo particularly, doesn't have the best grip and will lift when you apply masking to the painted surface, UNLESS, you apply some form of varnish topcoat to the dried paint before you mask Note taken. Do you have experience with lifecolor? I have been talking to their office in Italy, given them my situation being in the Philippines with nearly zero modelling support. They have graciously agreed to sell to me direct, and apparently at a big discount. I like their FS system, far easier than tamiya, their call outs drive me nuts. I put out a call the Vallejo paints as well, but haven't heard back from them. Hobby lobby is next on my grovel list. Thanks very much for the info paul, Anthony. PS. I did not buy the auto puddy, I just took a photo. My internet stinks right now, we just moved in two weeks ago and the phone/internet isn't hooked up yet. I will have to wait to post a pic, see what people think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 Wonder if liquid putty would also work instead of primer paint? Just bought a jar of the stuff on a whim but now not 100% sure how best to use it. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turnerdad Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 Could try it, I did experiment with some Humbrol grey filler, which did work, but not as neat (and a lot longer to do!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallBlondJohn Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 I've used Mr Surfacer in the same way, but an acrylic primer is probably a better way to go - the masking tape tends to lift the Surfacer off unless you remove it while still wet, which can be a big mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatG Posted December 9, 2023 Share Posted December 9, 2023 (edited) Every scriber I've bought, including some quite expensive ones, always have the same issue so am I doing something wrong? They all cut a very fine 'v' shape as required but the plastic removed doesn't always curl back from the tip as hoped for but instead some is left as a burr on either side which then has to be rubbed down to remove and the line then gone over again. Not an issue for say half a dozen lines but when it comes to more intricate areas or having to scribe a whole kit it this is far too laborious to do so any tips please? Pat. Ps. my latest scriber is a 'Mr Scriber - Narrow' and I accept that variations in the relative softness of the plastic between manufacturers will have an impact Edited December 9, 2023 by PatG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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