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Bobs_Buckles

Shuttleworth 07-10-2007

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Hello all,

I really need to spend more time learning my camera. The pictures below are the best I could do with the light available.

Needless to say, I enjoyed the day. Sadly, the Bristol M1C I wanted to see fly had engine problems on take off and had to be towed back to the holding area. Luckly it didn't suffer any damage as she skipped along the runway.

Enjoy the pictures.

Cheers.

Bob

tripeblack.jpg

tripe1.jpg

tripe2.jpg

tripe3.jpg

brisfit.jpg

hawker.jpg

504.jpg

m1c.jpg

tutor.jpg

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I think your doing just fine Bobby Bailey!

Enjoyed those shots...looks like a great day out.

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I think your doing just fine Bobby Bailey!

Enjoyed those shots...looks like a great day out.

Cheers Mr Phreaky,

Twas a good day. Any day where I'm in the company of old relics (present company included ;) ) is a good day by me.

Cheers,

Bob Chumley Bum Von Buckle :winkgrin:

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Wish I coulda been there, the Tripehound is one of my faves - love the sound of the engine! Only managed one visit to Old Warden this year, simply not good enough! Hopefully we will manage more visits next year.

Nice pics Bob.

peebeep

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Need to get to one of those days..Looks like a cracking day out

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Nice shots Bob. Sorry the weather wasn't up to much.

What problems were you having with the camera?

Nick

Nick,

I tried setting the shutter speed to 200 to slow the props, but couldn't get enough light into the lens.

Was my aperture settings wrong? White balance?

See below to give you an idea of the settings of one of the pictures that came out far too dark.

ISO 400 shot @ 70mm f10 1/400sec

Info taken from adobe Lightroom.

Seems all to complicated to me... Doh!

Bob

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Nick,

I tried setting the shutter speed to 200 to slow the props, but couldn't get enough light into the lens.

Was my aperture settings wrong? White balance?

See below to give you an idea of the settings of one of the pictures that came out far too dark.

ISO 400 shot @ 70mm f10 1/400sec

Info taken from adobe Lightroom.

Seems all to complicated to me... Doh!

Bob

From experience (not of airshows though, but of capturing a moving object) setting the camera on shutter priority is a good start.

The camera settings seem a little off Bob. You could have set the shutter speed to 250th to get a little more prop blur though. F10 seems fine, as it means you get a nice depth of field, but then if you decrease to 250th, you'll get more depth of field (i.e. you'll get whatever the camera decides goes best with that speed for correct exposure)

What camera is it, and what lens were you using?

On a low contrast, grey day, 400ISO is fine, although you're always going to need to do a little post shooting editing in Photoshop afterwards to bring the contrast and brightness levels up to how you want. I've not used Lightroom so I can't comment on how to tweak in it, but I guess it uses the same principles as PS.

Try going into the camera settings and changing the camera colour settings to Adobe RGB instead of sRGB. Adobe RGB is a much larger colour space, and will capture colours a lot better than sRGB (which is designed to be used for monitor and web images due to the limitations of colour repro of most monitors).

Changing that setting will mean your camera can record far more tones of colour.

Do you shoot RAW? Much better file format to work with as it's all uncompressed data, and gives you a great flexibility.

Aside from that, if it's a grey day, there's not much you can really do apart from play around with Photoshop.

Sorry if that elaborates on stuff you know anyway.

Cheers,

Nick

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Nick,

Cheers for that old bean.

I guess it all comes down to me putting some leg work in and learning the ways of My Nikon D70. The lens is an 18-70 mm.

Time to learn.

:)

Bob

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Bob the pics are OK mate but as the man said try using RAW mode it is so much easier to adjust afterwards in PS

Ted

Edited by tedtaylor

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A few things here Bob.

The D70's fine. Good camera, and you can set it up to use the uncompressed NEF images (Nikon's equivalent of Canon's RAW file). If you set it up to shoot both NEF and small JPG's it'll help in your selection as it's easier to view small JPG's.

Set the camera's colour range to Adobe RGB.

I just got hold of a copy of Lightform, and it looks really complicated. I'd say if you can get hold of CS2 or 3, it's easier to work with, but then that's just my opinion today having not played around with Lightform enough.

You'll need bigger glass for shooting airshows. 18-70 is fine to shoot static ground display, but you'll need much bigger to shoot them in flight.

When I shot in September, I was using a 70-200 lens with a 1.4 extender (giving me 280mm) which wasn't enough. I needed to do a lot of cropping and interpolating, which is ok, but does degrade image quality slightly.

I reckon I should have had at least 400mm to play with, and am now going to look at buying a bigger lens (mainly for shooting the golf tournaments I have coming up, but it'll be perfick for shooting airshows).

Otherwise, practice makes perfect!

Tata,

Nick

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Nick,

I only use Lightroom to view them. I use Photoshop CS3 for all the nice bits. :winkgrin:

Raw NEF is the only way I shoot. :thumbsup2:

Still learning...

Cheers mate.

Bob

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Just seen the next lens I'm going to buy. Canon 400mm (prime) 5.6L. Around 1,000US, but a corker.

Can imagine the laughs now when the girls say what a big lens you've got, and I'll say you need both hands to get hold of it...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Sad? Maybe..

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It appears that the light was rather flat and as a consequence the pictures over all are fairly good - in fact I would go so far as to say that they are pretty good. Do remember too that we see things differently from the Camera. You should go far!

David.

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Just seen the next lens I'm going to buy. Canon 400mm (prime) 5.6L. Around 1,000US, but a corker.

Can imagine the laughs now when the girls say what a big lens you've got, and I'll say you need both hands to get hold of it...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Sad? Maybe..

That's a bit cheap for an L series... it's about £800 here. :shrug:

Something I've always wanted to ask. Do primes limit you when you're composing a shot? I'm constantly fiddling with my zoom to get the best composition (EF-S 17-85 IS USM & EF 70-300 IS USM), and have pondered this longly(?). I know you get a lens that's customised for just that length, so minimising distortion & all those other greeblies, but do you end up running backwards & forwards to get your shots in the frame, or do you just carry a couple of bodies with a suitable lens on each?

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That's a bit cheap for an L series... it's about £800 here. :shrug:

Something I've always wanted to ask. Do primes limit you when you're composing a shot? I'm constantly fiddling with my zoom to get the best composition (EF-S 17-85 IS USM & EF 70-300 IS USM), and have pondered this longly(?). I know you get a lens that's customised for just that length, so minimising distortion & all those other greeblies, but do you end up running backwards & forwards to get your shots in the frame, or do you just carry a couple of bodies with a suitable lens on each?

Good old English prices eh?

Here's the prices from BH Photo in Noo Yawk.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...p;Q=*&bhs=t

Yes, primes would probably mean a lot of running around to get the shot, but once you've got it, you're sorted.

I've used primes on my Mamiya, and they really are quality. This will be my first prime lens buy for the Canon, having previously only used zooms. I love the flexibility of zooms, but now, I want to go for a higher quality image, and I think primes are the way to go. Most of the newspaper photographers I know here use them as well as zooms.

I'm buying this to shoot golf with, so that focal length will be fine, and then I'd use a 70-200 on another body to get other shots in.

Worth looking into anyway.

Cheers,

Nick

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When we talk of primes do we mean fixed focal length?

You've got it ;)

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You've got it ;)

Mike,

Does that also mean your looking for a lens with say f2.8 and below for quality?

The lower the f number the higher the price for glass?

Cheers.

Bob

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Yes, as a general rule. Most of the quality lenses have a range from f2.8 to f22 or 32. They're the ones to look for.

Some primes also go down to f1.4, and as a general rule (I think?) they're prime too (85mm, 50mm)

However, some of the prime telephotos have f4 or 5.6 as the widest aperture, but they're still the dogs.

Here's a good general site for reviews of lenses and gear..

http://www.fredmiranda.com/

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Yes, as a general rule. Most of the quality lenses have a range from f2.8 to f22 or 32. They're the ones to look for.

Some primes also go down to f1.4, and as a general rule (I think?) they're prime too (85mm, 50mm)

However, some of the prime telephotos have f4 or 5.6 as the widest aperture, but they're still the dogs.

Here's a good general site for reviews of lenses and gear..

http://www.fredmiranda.com/

Nick,

Superb website mate.

cheers.

Bob

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