Abacus Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Usually avoiding BMF like the plague, bought a some Aluminium Mr Metal Color to try. What primer is required, if any? Also, assumed it was acrylic but the niff suggests lacquer, will cellulose be the only usable thinner? Would appreciate advice and experiences. TIA,Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Hmm cellulose on plastic .. i dont think so .. that would end up like airfix kits .. LOL .. all melted and distorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 (edited) Hi, I've been experimenting with the Aluminium Mr Metal Color recently , I've found that its not necessary to undercoat/prime before use.But the surface of the kit needs to be as smooth and as shiny as possible. Some pics:- 1/72ND Tamiya P-47 cowling -this paint loves Tamiya plastic -this is the paint applied by a thick flat brush ,very quickly. It dries really fast.After only a few minutes it can be buffed ,gently at first .For this i've been using standard kitchen towels. The cowling in the pic is buffed to the shiniest i could get it without rubbing away the paint itself (it happens). The cowling has also had a few coats of klear. Next pic A HobbyBoss P-47 The plastic on this kit was very rough so i gave it some elbow grease and some micro mesh,obviously not enough because small scratches are apparent in the finish. I also experimented with Klear and paint on this wing. Klear/future is fine so long as you leave it at least a day before you apply it. I masked off and painted the Insignia blue stripe on the wing in Lifecolor acrylics,this came away with the tape,claer and mr metal stripping the painted part of the wing back to plastic. Tamiya paint was tried next on an old Spitfire wing and this went on fine(the wing is adrift somewhere so no pic ,sorry). I think Lifecolor has a problem with future/klear so i may retry with a different varnish. Next up a revell P-47 wing The paint was applied direct on the plastic after it had had a nice soapy bath ,it covered and buffed up really well, so well you can see the strange sworl in the plastic from the moulding process. More shots of the revell wing Revell tailplanes 1 painted 1 not. Again showing swirls in the plastic. I need to take some shots in daylight as the finish thats possible isn't shown to its best it the above pics. My only concern is that it looks a little out of scale on 1/72nd aircraft but on larger scales i think its possible to achieve something very striking. Oh and hello to all Britmodellers!. *quick edit for anyone on lowbandwidth mode http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee223/Gwart/ botophucket folder link* Edited September 30, 2007 by Gwart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 Now that, I LIKE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobs_Buckles Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 You ain't going to get a more convincing silver than that. You jet loving freaks must be past the lazy lob stage by now... HAHA Nice. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Some shots in daylight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abacus Posted October 1, 2007 Author Share Posted October 1, 2007 Amazing results, thankyou Sir for sharing. Have you thinned the paint before application and if so , with what? Regards,Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Blimey, that's some impressive paint, especially considering it's been applied with a brush! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Really impressed with this paint. Just one question though... how does it cover areas such as seams which have had to be filled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 @Aidan,i've been using Mr Color Thinners to thin and clean the brush i do this in a seperate lidded pot which collects the residue which is reusable. I'm working on a Tamiya P-47 from the box and being finished in this paint-i hope to have something to show at the weekend. I spotted these paints earlier :- http://www.internetmodeler.com/2007/octobe...aints_talon.php They look to be the same idea but better and with more in the pot,they are more than double the price of Mr Metal though. If anyone knows of a UK stockist as i would like to try them out. Shane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abacus Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 (edited) Hi Shane, SnJ products to be found here http://cammett.websds.net/index.htm Please post your finished model, very interested in your tips and advice. Aidan Edited October 3, 2007 by abacus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 Thanks Aidan,i shall email them to see if they will be sticking the acrylic version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 (edited) This close up shows the surfare after the majority of the colour has been polished .The streaky part visible on the inboard part of the wing will rub away leaving a nice shiny smooth area. The anti-glare panel and Theater stripes were masked off and sprayed on the bare plastic.Both starting with a preshade and a light dusting with Black /XF-1,the OD /XF-62 panel was sprayed 1st with the colour ,then gradually being lightened with Dark Yellow XF-60. The OD was then masked off and XF-17 applied this was lightened with white to create a faded effect. All the masking was removed and the areas painted were then masked over.The Mr Metal colour was then applied quickly with a broad flat brush 1 area at a time,fuselage,tailplane,etc.Leaving the wings outboard of the Blue stripes till last. I left it overnight to dry and then spent most of today slowly buffing it up.Its still not completely buffed up just enough to remove 90% of the residue. I'm going to leave it in a box in the airing cupboard for a few days before i varnish and move onto the decals (KL308 from the Freightdog Brit's abroad sheet)and subsequent weathering. Edited October 6, 2007 by Gwart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Bloody Hell! That looks marvellous!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffclark7 Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Gwart, I think you have revealed the answer to getting a very good metallic finish Cheers Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Put the roundels and fin flases on this afternoon. Spotted future where the decal was to go. Blob of microset then a blob of future a few hours later. Also my first use of pre-painted etched seatbelts. These are bloody ace.I love em. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paganpete Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Wow, is this still available in the UK? Will it go over acrylic? Ta, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Here you gohttp://www.modelsrgo.co.uk/paints/acrylic/mr-hobby-gunze-sangyo-en-2.html#11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Hmm cellulose on plastic .. i dont think so .. that would end up like airfix kits .. LOL .. all melted and distorted You will be ok so long as you don't overdo it and pool the paint, the cellulose evaporates before attacking the plastic. The Mr Metal colours are thin enough to spray straight from the jar I find.They just take ages to clean from the airbrush though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paganpete Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Thanks Colin - I am a brush painter though so hopefully will be ok with these! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 I've got those paints but have never used them other than for very small areas like gun barrels etc. After seeing this thread I'll be giving them a go for NMF asap, any other tips for spraying them or anything to watch out for? Duncan B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Well ! that is just stunning !!!! Wish I bought some at Telford now ! WOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Millman Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Reminds me of those chrome-plated plastic kits of the 1960s. The wow! factor but more like a Cylon than a SEAC P-47. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwart Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 With washes and weathering and selective matt/satin/gloss varnishing tamed it back to a very nice finish.But 8 years down the line the metal colour has 'broken down' underneath everything and just looks horrible and patchy. My personal preference for doing NMF is having the most shiny polished effect first ,then build down from there. I've not used the metal color in a long time, my current preference is for the Vallejo Metals that came out recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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