Jump to content

Mr Metal Color


Abacus

Recommended Posts

Usually avoiding BMF like the plague, bought a some Aluminium Mr Metal Color to try. What primer is required, if any? Also, assumed it was acrylic but the niff suggests lacquer, will cellulose be the only usable thinner? Would appreciate advice and experiences. TIA,Aidan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

I've been experimenting with the Aluminium Mr Metal Color recently ,

I've found that its not necessary to undercoat/prime before use.But the surface of the kit needs to be as smooth and as shiny as possible.

Some pics:-

exp5.jpg

1/72ND Tamiya P-47 cowling -this paint loves Tamiya plastic -this is the paint applied by a thick flat brush ,very quickly.

It dries really fast.After only a few minutes it can be buffed ,gently at first .For this i've been using standard kitchen towels.

The cowling in the pic is buffed to the shiniest i could get it without rubbing away the paint itself (it happens).

The cowling has also had a few coats of klear.

Next pic A HobbyBoss P-47

exp4.jpg

The plastic on this kit was very rough so i gave it some elbow grease and some micro mesh,obviously not enough because small scratches are apparent in the finish.

I also experimented with Klear and paint on this wing.

Klear/future is fine so long as you leave it at least a day before you apply it.

I masked off and painted the Insignia blue stripe on the wing in Lifecolor acrylics,this came away with the tape,claer and mr metal stripping the painted part of the wing back to plastic.

Tamiya paint was tried next on an old Spitfire wing and this went on fine(the wing is adrift somewhere so no pic ,sorry).

I think Lifecolor has a problem with future/klear so i may retry with a different varnish.

Next up a revell P-47 wing

exp2.jpg

The paint was applied direct on the plastic after it had had a nice soapy bath ,it covered and buffed up really well, so well you can see the strange sworl in the plastic from the moulding process.

More shots of the revell wing

exp6.jpg

exp1.jpg

Revell tailplanes 1 painted 1 not.

exp3.jpg

Again showing swirls in the plastic.

I need to take some shots in daylight as the finish thats possible isn't shown to its best it the above pics.

My only concern is that it looks a little out of scale on 1/72nd aircraft but on larger scales i think its possible to achieve something very striking.

Oh and hello to all Britmodellers!.

*quick edit for anyone on lowbandwidth mode http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee223/Gwart/ botophucket folder link*

Edited by Gwart
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Aidan,i've been using Mr Color Thinners to thin and clean the brush i do this in a seperate lidded pot which collects the residue which is reusable.

I'm working on a Tamiya P-47 from the box and being finished in this paint-i hope to have something to show at the weekend.

I spotted these paints earlier :-

http://www.internetmodeler.com/2007/octobe...aints_talon.php

They look to be the same idea but better and with more in the pot,they are more than double the price of Mr Metal though.

If anyone knows of a UK stockist as i would like to try them out.

Shane.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jug1.jpg

jug2.jpg

jug3.jpg

This close up shows the surfare after the majority of the colour has been polished .The streaky part visible on the inboard part of the wing will rub away leaving a nice shiny smooth area.

jug4.jpg

jug5.jpg

jug6.jpg

The anti-glare panel and Theater stripes were masked off and sprayed on the bare plastic.Both starting with a preshade and a light dusting with Black /XF-1,the OD /XF-62 panel was sprayed 1st with the colour ,then gradually being lightened with Dark Yellow XF-60.

The OD was then masked off and XF-17 applied this was lightened with white to create a faded effect.

All the masking was removed and the areas painted were then masked over.The Mr Metal colour was then applied quickly with a broad flat brush 1 area at a time,fuselage,tailplane,etc.Leaving the wings outboard of the Blue stripes till last.

I left it overnight to dry and then spent most of today slowly buffing it up.Its still not completely buffed up just enough to remove 90% of the residue.

I'm going to leave it in a box in the airing cupboard for a few days before i varnish and move onto the decals (KL308 from the Freightdog Brit's abroad sheet)and subsequent weathering.

Edited by Gwart
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:clap2:

Gwart, I think you have revealed the answer to getting a very good metallic finish :yahoo:

Cheers

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put the roundels and fin flases on this afternoon.

Spotted future where the decal was to go.

Blob of microset then a blob of future a few hours later.

Also my first use of pre-painted etched seatbelts.

These are bloody ace.I love em.

jug3-1.jpg

jug2-1.jpg

jug1-1.jpg

jug4-1.jpg

jug5-1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Wow, is this still available in the UK? Will it go over acrylic?

Ta,

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm cellulose on plastic .. i dont think so .. that would end up like airfix kits .. LOL .. all melted and distorted

You will be ok so long as you don't overdo it and pool the paint, the cellulose evaporates before attacking the plastic.

The Mr Metal colours are thin enough to spray straight from the jar I find.They just take ages to clean from the airbrush though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Colin - I am a brush painter though so hopefully will be ok with these!

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got those paints but have never used them other than for very small areas like gun barrels etc. After seeing this thread I'll be giving them a go for NMF asap, any other tips for spraying them or anything to watch out for?

Duncan B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

With washes and weathering and selective matt/satin/gloss varnishing tamed it back to a very nice finish.But 8 years down the line the metal colour has 'broken down' underneath everything and just looks horrible and patchy.

My personal preference for doing NMF is having the most shiny polished effect first ,then build down from there.

I've not used the metal color in a long time, my current preference is for the Vallejo Metals that came out recently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...