Welcome to Britmodeller.com

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

  • Announcements

    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
Mike

Lifecolor
Acrylic Paints

73 posts in this topic
Anybody else see lots of "\" backslashes in the review or it just me?

I think its just you.

I have to say i love these paints they spray really well.

Julien

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Some great new sets have been added to the original review - US Navy sets 1 & 2, which should interest the ship builders big time, and Finnish WWII Army, which is a real niche one! :)

Time for a Finnish air force set!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think its just you.

I have to say i love these paints they spray really well.

Julien

That's good to hear. I've just ordered and received the two U.S.Navy box sets, and the reviews on this site give me confidence that I've made a good choice. When I've got round to using them, I'll post some feedback of my own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using these lately and my 2 cents:

The good:

- Huge array of colors including many that you won't find in any other of the big paint brands (try doing a British WW2 Caunter scheme with Gunze or Tamiya!)

- Very mild smell and water-soluble. This is probably the safest acrylic modelling paint you'll find.

- Sprays really flat as it has excellent self-levelling properties. Overspray is manageable. Heck, I've even dropped paint on the model and only had to wipe it off with water. This would have ruined my paint job with nearly any other brand.

- Excellent for brush painting. I find painting small parts to be way easier than spraying and looks just as good. The paint hardly ever streaks because of its self-levelling.

The bad:

- Terrible adhesion, dare I say the worst of any acrylic paints I've ever tried. Painting directly on the model is a recepe for frustration if not outright impossibility. You HAVE to prime the model first or else you'll spend hours spraying coat after coat after coat to get anything visible.

- Even assuming you prime the model, spraying light paints is a time-consuming process of spray-dry-spray-dry-spray... etc. Darker colors are less problematic. You'll find that mixing with the usual ratios of other paints tends to make it too light (resulting in more spraying). A 60:40 or even 70:30 ratio of paint/water is ideal (vs 50:50 or less for most other brands). This is the "secret" that kind of put me off these paints for some time.

- Although accuracy is generally good, like all paints, you will find some near misses.

Conclusion: Highly recommended! Although I will not replace my other paints with Lifecolor, I will be stocking up on those which I can't get with Gunze or Tamiya. I just finished a F-15C Mod Eagle with Lifecolor paints and it looks absolutely spot on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using these lately and my 2 cents:

The bad:

- Terrible adhesion, dare I say the worst of any acrylic paints I've ever tried. Painting directly on the model is a recepe for frustration if not outright impossibility. You HAVE to prime the model first or else you'll spend hours spraying coat after coat after coat to get anything visible.

- Even assuming you prime the model, spraying light paints is a time-consuming process of spray-dry-spray-dry-spray... etc. Darker colors are less problematic. You'll find that mixing with the usual ratios of other paints tends to make it too light (resulting in more spraying). A 60:40 or even 70:30 ratio of paint/water is ideal (vs 50:50 or less for most other brands). This is the "secret" that kind of put me off these paints for some time.

Strange? I would always prime before using acrylic top coat.

I sprayed US SEA Tan which is quite light over white primer and it covered very well indeed, this was thinned down using valejho airbrush cleaner till it looked right (never gone on exact ratio's)

Julien

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same here, I never had problems with light colours and I've used their light gull grey on several USN types wihout any issue. It must be said however that I always prime with a relatively light grey.

They can be a bitch to spray, and I struggled in the beginning, but after I found the right mix I had no problem at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When spraying Lifecolor, I've found that less is more. Add less thinners than you normally would, and it sprays just fine. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Updated to include Finnish Air Force set. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When spraying Lifecolor, I've found that less is more. Add less thinners than you normally would, and it sprays just fine. :)

Hello Mike; one other issue when used with an airbrush is air pressure: what's your setting in this case? I still have to find the right way to use my Lifecolors, though it's my first choice for brush painting

Thanks

GM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

15psi working pressure is my usual pressure. With an empty brush, turn on the compressor, depress the trigger, and dial in 15psi or 1 Bar. It'll rise when you let go of the trigger, and the initial squirt next time will be at a higher pressure, but when you have the trigger open, you'll get your 15psi. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike, I'll try that :thumbsup2:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Updated to add Hemp Ropes & Tarps, plus Leather sets. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I give up! Anyone want a dozen pots of LIfecolor? I'm spraying with an H&S Infinity with a .15 needle. I'm working at 15 psi. I've tried every permutation of paint, thinners, water, flow enhancer etc. All I get is a sputtering mess. If I use Tamiya I can write my name between the lines of an exercise book. Real shame because, on the rare occasion they work they give a nice finish and the colours are good. Also my local model shop stocks them. I just can't deal with the agro anymore - I want to paint my aeroplane!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watcher, my experience is that they work pretty good with a .30 needle, but I'm using a home brewed thinner - I had no success with their own. And of course I also use Tamiya's colors, and have exactly your feeling. But the matt colors are so less grainy in Lifecolor range, that it's worth getting to know how to use them!

So, what are colors you want to get rid of? :winkgrin:

Ciao

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do want to get to grips with them because the finish is so nice. Also I'm happier using water (with flow enhancer) instead of an alcohol mix. If anything they should cope with a more narrow needle because of their pigments size.

I know it sounds odd but I wonder if its the way I mix my paint? For a long time I've dropped a 6mm ball bearing in my paints and then given them a good shake. I wonder if that's either creating bubbles or mashing up some clumps and making blockages?

I promise - if I give up you can have them :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also I'm happier using water (with flow enhancer) instead of an alcohol mix. If anything they should cope with a more narrow needle because of their pigments size.

I know it sounds odd but I wonder if its the way I mix my paint? For a long time I've dropped a 6mm ball bearing in my paints and then given them a good shake. I wonder if that's either creating bubbles or mashing up some clumps and making blockages?

Beware: Lifecolor's are vinyl based acrylics, so you're not supposed to use alcohol at all, it makes them "blobby" - if that makes sense. I use a 50-50 mix of distilled water and Windex, and a few drops of flow enhancer, to thin them. As for the mixing, I stir very well the paint in it's pot, before taking some and putting into an empty pot, together with the thinner, again stirring thoroughly. I only then drop the mix into the airbrush cup, in which I previously put a few drops of the same thinner; moreover, before spraying I loosen the tip cone (not sure it's the right name, sorry) and blow some air, so that the paint gets better mixed with thinner (I hope all I'm saying makes sense to you).

HTH

Ciao

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Giemme,

It makes a lot of sense. I know I must be doing something wrong because I've tried to follow all the good advice on here with regards to thinning etc. Your mixing process is much more thorough than mine (shake it up then mix in the airbrush :fraidnot:). I'll go back to basics and be more patient in my preparation.

Thanks for the advice.

Matthew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thin them with Vallejo airbrush cleaner. Works great for me in my Iwata but its a bigger needle than yours.

The cleaner has some ethylene glycol in it and acts to slightly retard the paint.

I should add that I just mix it in the brush and have never had any problems.

Julien

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Updated to add Israeli Army Vehicles & Uniforms (CS32) set to the list - see the first post for details :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Review amended to add Sets CS-35 The Battle of Britain RAF Colours, CS-14 Italian WWII Regio Esercito uniforms, and WWII Royal Australian Air Force Set 1.  They're in the middle of the review, roughly. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Edited to add Imperial Japanese Navy Set1 and Late War Set 2 :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some further info for the IJN paints. The Hinoki deck colour is only for Yamato, Musashi and Nagato as those three battleships were the only IJN ships with Hinoki Cypress deck planking. All other ships had Beimatsu deck planking.

 

thanks

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Review edited to add the three new boxed sets, White Wood (CS38), Leaking Grime, Stains & Damp (CS39) and Stone Grey (CS40).

 

boxtop-cs38-40.jpg

 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now