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      DDoS and Brute Force Attacks   09/18/2016

      From the day following upgrade to the new forum software, 15th Sept until the 19th, we were under a concerted attack by a person or persons using a number of 'bots and other people's Proxy networks to carry out what is called a Distributed Denial of Service attack, which is a method by which these 'bots submit thousands of requests to the website per second to overload the server and bring the site to its knees.  While this was going on, they were also making Brute Force attacks on our remote communications port to try and breach the server so they could do anything from format the hard drives to change ownership of the site, and bombarding the mailserver with similar bogus requests, some of which left some rather telling details behind.  This was followed up a couple of days later with a further attack that left more data to sift through, which we have passed on to our IT forensics people.On the advice of our Lawyer and fellow member JohnT, we yesterday informed the National Crime Agency and requested their assistance with the matter, and in an ongoing dialogue with them to find the culprits, so we are allowing them access to the server and its logs.    We don't believe that this is a random attack on balance, but for 5 days and a further evening we had to put up with some disturbance and interruption to the usually fast response of the website as we are seeing now that the attack has ended.  We will prevail, and don't worry about it.  We were the target, and these people will not win.  Karma will catch up with them   Mike, Greg, Dave & Julien.
Big Kev

Monogram 1/48 FM-2 Conversion

132 posts in this topic

Hi folks,

My latest project barely got off the ground before it started going nowhere, so I reached for something else to ward off my looming modelling funk. For some strange reason, I decided to pull an old 1/48 Monogram Wildcat out of the stash and convert it to an FM-2. Actually, I inherited this kit last year, and found that it had a Missing Link Models FM-2 conversion set inside the box already. It seemed a shame to waste it, and it also seemed silly to build the kit as a Wildcat, when there are much better options around. So I thought, why not give it a bash?

The other motivation for building this is to improve on the dreadful effort I did many years ago! I had actually bought an Eduard detail set for that build at the time, and then forgot to use it! :wall: So, I finally get to use that too.

Anyway, enough waffle. Here's what I'm starting with:

box.jpg

In the photo you can see the Monogram kit, some Aeromaster FM-2 decals an ARC member generously donated to the project, some True Details Wildcat wheels and the Eduard PE set.

Here's the Missing Link set:

conversion_kit.jpg

It's pretty basic, crude even, but should do the job. At the bottom of the bag, out of shot, is a small extension piece for the tail fin. The entire set is literally only 3 pieces plus the instruction sheet.

The last piece of the puzzle is a vac canopy from the Falcon set:

falcon_box.jpg

Remember that old build I was telling you about? Check it out:

old_build.jpg

And here's some evidence of how bad this build really is:

old_bad_wing.jpg

Ugh! Let's hope I can do better than that this time around! I have to confess though that I'm no rivet counter, and know next to nothing worthwhile about the F4F or the FM-2. So, any tips and pointers you can share along the way would be greatly appreciated!

Right, I better go off and actually start building the thing I guess...

Kev

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Big Kev: Good luck with the conversion, I want to do one meself someday...

Grumman Cheers,

ggc

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I want to see this, have been interested in doing one for some time. I've built this OOB and often wondered how it converts. How did your 1/32 A6M2-5

Revell Zero finally come out? I shelved mine.---John

Edited by Johnv

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Thanks fellas. I'm still trying to get some research under my belt, working out the nature and extent of the differences between the F4F-3/4 hybrid represented by the kit, and the target FM-2. I've read some stuff on various forums about the cowls being different lengths, but I'm not going to bother with that. I've got some scale drawings of Wildcats, but nothing for an FM-2 yet, so if need be I'll just use the Wildcat drawings to work out my rescribing.

How did your 1/32 A6M2-5 Revell Zero finally come out? I shelved mine.---John

It was a long struggle John, but I finally got there in September last year. It actually took first place in a local show I entered it into. For the long and tortured saga, check out the full build thread on LSP, or just skip to the end for the final photos.

Kev

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For the long and tortured saga, check out the full build thread on LSP, or just skip to the end for the final photos.

Whoa, Kev! That was an awesome refurbish of yer old Zero! Guess buildin' this Wildcat oughta be a breeze in comparison... No torture at all; gonna try it on my 1/48th scale AMT awful Zero.

I like Monogram's kit even though it's a dog; it's got a lot of potential, and with Falcon's vac-form canopy plus the photoetched parts, it's got to come along nice. Besides, good thing about doin' an FM-2 is that ya've got the option to fold the wings and use the uncuffed, paddle-bladed Hamilton Standard propeller with the dome-shaped hub instead.

Gonna be peepin' this one, Kevo.

Cheers,

Unc²

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Whoa, Kev! That was an awesome refurbish of yer old Zero!

Thanks Unc²! It was one of my most satisfying builds ever. Glad it's over though!

I like Monogram's kit even though it's a dog; it's got a lot of potential, and with Falcon's vac-form canopy plus the photoetched parts, it's got to come along nice. Besides, good thing about doin' an FM-2 is that ya've got the option to fold the wings and use the uncuffed, paddle-bladed Hamilton Standard propeller with the dome-shaped hub instead.

Ah, thanks for prompting me about the uncuffed propeller! My references tell me, though, that is was a Curtiss Electric unit with the usual straight 'pipework' hub. Are you describing a different option?

Oh, speaking of references, here are my main ones:

references.jpg

Notice they're using the same photo on their respective covers? Makes sense, I guess, since they're effectively from the same publishers. I'm also using a PDF copy of the Squadron/Signal 'In Action' book (no, it's not legit, and I hang my head in shame for not having an actual copy).

And you're right about the Monogram kit; the instructions are copyrighted 1990, but check this out:

copyright_date.jpg

1961! This kit is older than me!

I think I'll avoid folding the wings, just to save myself having to scratch-build the wing fold detail. But having said that, tidying up those wing joins won't be any picnic either!

I'll try to post some actual modelling progress next time!

Kev

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OK, I thought it about time we saw some actual modelling in this thread! I think this conversion may well end up being much more involved than I originally thought, mostly due to the highly basic nature of this old Monogram kit. I've performed the necessary surgery on the fuselage to accommodate the new tail extension and the modified cowling:

fuselage_surgery.jpg

The Missing Link instructions recommend removing the rear portions of the cowling from the fuselage parts, and building the full cowling separately. I wasn't planning to do it this way before reading the instructions, but I figure they must know what they're talking about, so why not?

Here are the two plastic parts glued together, with the resin cowl ring placed on top:

cowling_surgery.jpg

The conversion supplies a replacement resin engine, which is adequately detailed for the scale, but there's no real way of securing it inside the cowling. So, there's my first hurdle to jump! I suspect I'll blank off the rear of the cowling, and rig up some sort of engine mount (probably more of a set of stand-offs really) between it and the rear of the engine.

Anybody have any decent shots of the front of the firewall?

Kev

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Hi there, Kevster! :bye: Yer cowling is lookin' awesome; a clear sign that this project is gonna be very interesting to follow. Oh, I forgot to mention the HUGE improvement which is to have those True Detail resin wheels, as the kit ones are beyond toy-like... :puke:real awful.

Ah, thanks for prompting me about the uncuffed propeller! My references tell me, though, that is was a Curtiss Electric unit with the usual straight 'pipework' hub. Are you describing a different option?

Kev, there was no internet by the time I purchased my Monogram kit; guess it was in 1991, but I did have seen some war-time pictures of an FM-2 somewhere, fitted with the Hamilton Standard propeller and the dome-shaped hub. From that day on, ne'er did I like the Curtiss Electric + straight 'pipework' hub parts to go on my build, but I knew my F4F-4 build was ne'er fitted with those, so I had no choice but to use the kit parts.

Here ya've got a couple of pictures of an FM-2 fitted with the Hamilton Standard beautiful screws and their distinctive dome-shaped hub:

FM2cowl.jpg Check the F-4F sign at her feet... :rolleyes:

FM2cowlandprop.jpg

Notice they're using the same photo on their respective covers? Makes sense, I guess, since they're effectively from the same publishers. I'm also using a PDF copy of the Squadron/Signal 'In Action' book (no, it's not legit, and I hang my head in shame for not having an actual copy).

Ne'er mind yer reference material, Kevo; the only source I had back in 1991 was In Detail & Scale volume on the F4F, and I even today I feel I was lucky enough to have had at least that. :rofl:

And you're right about the Monogram kit; the instructions are copyrighted 1990, but check this out:

1961! This kit is older than me!

Uh-huh... and whut a disgusting surprise I was in for when I found out the box art didn't correlate with an F4F-4 but a wronged F4F-3 doggie awful crossover! It had folding wings but just two .50 cal. guns on its wings; no hint of the oil coolers under the wing, a spartan cockpit and sparse canopy; the toy-like mechanism on folding wings and wheels... but the size and overall shape was correct, and this was whut mattered the most to me about Monogram's kit in the end.

I think I'll avoid folding the wings, just to save myself having to scratch-build the wing fold detail. But having said that, tidying up those wing joins won't be any picnic either!

Yeh, I concur; and folding the wings is really not a hard thing to do with the plethora of pictures which abound on the net nowadays; it adds a lot to the model as well. It's not like the Tamiya kit, on which ya've got to cut the wings. Here ya are some FM-2 wing fold mechanism takes:

FM2_leftwingfold.jpg

FM2leftwingfoldlower.jpg

Awlright, anythin' I can help ya with, just scream, Kevo.

Unc²

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Come on the wheels being toy-like!?!!? You mean the real ones were not held on the axel with a hot screwdriver (or butter knife) pressed on the axle to mushroom the axle! Or applying butter to the hinges to lubricate them? Anyone else remember the instructions from the early 70's?

One thing to remember with the wings on an FM-2 versus a Dash 4 is one, the outer guns were removed - only a 4 gun armament, and two the underwing oil coolers next to the fuselage on the fixed portion of the wing were removed and a panel in the outline of the cooler covered the 'hole' (use .005 card or something similar)

As for props there were a few differant types. One I think is similar to the one that the B-17 used so if you have a Monogram carcass to scavenge you mauy be able to find them (that is how I did my 72nd builds many moons ago). Here is the Vector prop that is used to update the Hobbyboss kit. I think Meteor did props also when the Sword kit was released - they still may be available - somewhere

http://www.ultracast.ca/products/Vector/48...024/default.htm

http://www.ultracast.ca/Aircraft%20Accesso...F%20Wildcat.htm

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Come on the wheels being toy-like!?!!? You mean the real ones were not held on the axel with a hot screwdriver (or butter knife) pressed on the axle to mushroom the axle! Or applying butter to the hinges to lubricate them?

Yeeehh, very "toy-like;" at least the real ones had the correct wheel hub covers on 'em... :bleh:laughing.gif:rofl:

Anyone else remember the instructions from the early 70's?

Nay; sorry, Matt, but me was born in the mid-'80s... :lol:

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Whoa, some very nice pics there Uncle! Sorry to disappoint you though, but I'm still planning to straighten the wings. :P I'm not a big fan of having them folded on a model to be honest, though I understand and respect why folks do it. The Missing Link instructions note that the kit's prop is already appropriate for an FM-2, so I'll go with that, unless someone points out some egregious error(s) that I can't live with.

I've got the resin front glued on to the rear of the cowling now, and am rummaging through my brain for a solution to mounting the engine (I think I may have something!). No pics at this stage, until I'm a bit further along.

I must say, the resin used for the conversion parts is really strange. It's slightly soapy, and smells like naphtha! And not just a little bit; it's really pungent and fills the whole room. I hope that goes away after I get paint on it...

Kev

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I've got the resin front glued on to the rear of the cowling now, and am rummaging through my brain for a solution to mounting the engine (I think I may have something!). No pics at this stage, until I'm a bit further along.

G'day, Kevo! :bye:

Oh, it's awlright, mate; yer build, yer call. Me's fine by that. Hey, y'know I've been lookin' all over for my D&S F4F book, and I remembered I lent it to a fella ages ago. Perhaps it's got some good pictures on the engine mount; gonna go fetch it next weekend, as this bloke lives almost 150 kilometres away.

As for now, I've managed to get ya this take of the FM-2:

FM-2.jpg

The engine fits snug inside the cowling, huh? Me thinks ya could make a bulkhead out of .10-inch plastic sheet, attach a piece of rod or tube to the back of yer resin engine and then glue it to the bulkhead by dry fittin' all the assembly with the cowl on. It shouldn't be hard to do; whut do ya think, mate?

Beware of gas fumes, Kevster! :bleh:

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Me thinks ya could make a bulkhead out of .10-inch plastic sheet, attach a piece of rod or tube to the back of yer resin engine and then glue it to the bulkhead by dry fittin' all the assembly with the cowl on. It shouldn't be hard to do; whut do ya think, mate?

Ha! That's exactly my plan! I'll use some large-ish tube so as not to foul the hole for the prop shaft. The trick will be getting the tube's length just right. For the moment I'm focusing on getting the cowl right. I've (mostly) filled and sanded the old engraved cowl flaps; the next step is to fair in the resin ring, and then it's on to scribing in some new details.

Kev

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Oh, thanks for that photo too, Uncle! It shows the cut-out for the exhaust beautifully. None of my references had so far been able to do that.

Kev

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Hi there, Kevo! :bye:

Oh, thanks for that photo too, Uncle! It shows the cut-out for the exhaust beautifully. None of my references had so far been able to do that.

Aw, don't even mention it, mate! Me's just glad to be able to help ya out.

The trick will be getting the tube's length just right.

Well, it seems there's not much room left behind the Wright R-1820-56 nine cylinder... :fraidnot: I've gotten ya some new photos; here:

FM-2 side view

FM-2SideView.jpg

Wright R-1820-56 front view

WrightR-1820-56Front.jpg

Wright R-1820-56 back view

WrightR-1820-56Back.jpg

Wright R-1820-56 exhaust collectors

WrightR-1820-56Exhausts.jpg

Engine mount taken from behind the bulkhead

EngineMountBulkhead.jpg

Same, upper section

EngineMountBulkheadHigh.jpg

Same, lower section

EngineMountBulkheadLow.jpg

More or less, they give ya some ideas, huh? I'd still need to measure the space behind the engine to scale, but that's not until I go fetch my D&S F4F book from my mate. :rolleyes:

Sit tight, mate!

Unc²

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Geez! Where are you getting these awesome photos mate? I'm wearing out the right-click button on my mouse! :D I won't be aiming to replicate all that engine detail though. In fact, the resin engine is arguably no better than the kit one, other than looking more accurate and not being moulded to the cowling. So, I'd practically have to scratch-build a whole new one if I wanted to do more than show the front. I'd love to get hold of an old Revell Wildcat in 1/32, and turn that into an FM-2. That way I could really go to town!

Apologies for the lack of progress pics, but filling and sanding really isn't that interesting to watch.

Kev

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Well, a little bit more modelling done, but it's pretty slow going. Here's my solution for fixing the engine in place, which was pretty much along the lines that Uncle Uncool suggested:

engine_mounted.jpg

Here it is fitted into the cowling:

engine_fitted.jpg

The white specks on the engine are globs of sanding dust that I haven't cleaned off yet. I'm currently considering my options for detailing the engine. Should I wire it up? There's some detail moulded on to the engine itself, but it's soft and very understated. I'm thinking I could get away with just laying stuff over the top of it. Also, any idea what colour the inside of the engine cowling should be? Given the general lack of detail back there, I'm considering just painting it black - at the rear at least.

And a shot of the bulkhead from the rear:

cowling_rear.jpg

The problem I'm going to have now though, is that the entire assembly just butt-joins against the rest of the fuselage, so I'll need to put tabs or something in place to secure it a little better. Also, it looks like my cut to separate the cowling has removed more plastic than I had envisaged, as there's now an ever-so-slight step down from the fuselage to the cowling. I'm considering putting a thick sheet of styrene over the front of the fuselage to help make up the difference. I guess that would solve the problem of joining the cowl assembly to the fuselage too. We'll see.

Kev

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G'day, Kev! :bye:

Nice progress, chap! Ya're doin' it very well; me likes.

I'm currently considering my options for detailing the engine. Should I wire it up?

Well, I don't know if ya're goin' to town with this kit, but yeh, mate; if I may, me thinks ya must wire this resin engine because it's a world of difference with regard to the one provided with the kit. :puke: Hence, it'd be kind of a waste not to wire it, to say the least.

I'm thinking I could get away with just laying stuff over the top of it.

Yeh, mate, not much. Just add the push rods and the wiring; the engine should be done with just that much detail on it.

Also, any idea what colour the inside of the engine cowling should be? Given the general lack of detail back there, I'm considering just painting it black - at the rear at least.

Hmph, that pretty much depends on which nationality or service ya're doin' it. Judgin' by the AeroMaster decal sheet, me surmises it's goin' to be an FM-2 in the US Navy, but it's not a good thing to surmise, is it? ;) Uh-huh, the rear of yer engine could be painted a pitch black colour; no use to detail it if barely anythin' is gonna be shown behind that plastic bulkhead.

The problem I'm going to have now though, is that the entire assembly just butt-joins against the rest of the fuselage, so I'll need to put tabs or something in place to secure it a little better. Also, it looks like my cut to separate the cowling has removed more plastic than I had envisaged, as there's now an ever-so-slight step down from the fuselage to the cowling. I'm considering putting a thick sheet of styrene over the front of the fuselage to help make up the difference. I guess that would solve the problem of joining the cowl assembly to the fuselage too. We'll see.

Kev, if I may, I'd suggest adding strips of thin plastic in the spaces left between the cowling and the plastic bulkhead, and gluin' 'em just on the cowling/engine assembly, like on those locations marked by the red arrows:

cowlingrear.jpg

This way ya'll be able to dry fit the whole engine/cowling assembly before actually gluin' it to the rest of the fuselage, and judge how much sheet styrene ya'll need to add to the joint in order to help make up the amount of plastic gone with yer cut. Get, it, mate?

Say, are ya plannin' to replicate the cowling flaps and exhausts or not? If ya do, don't forget to cut a little hole on yer bulkhead for each side prior to gluin' the cowling to the fuselage.

Keep it comin', Kevster!

Unc²

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Kev, if I may, I'd suggest adding strips of thin plastic in the spaces left between the cowling and the plastic bulkhead, and gluin' 'em just on the cowling/engine assembly, like on those locations marked by the red arrows:

cowlingrear.jpg

Yeah, I was thinking along those lines too. That's why I deliberately made the bulkhead a poor fit. ;) This build is going to take a bit more effort than I imagined at first, but hopefully it'll be worth it. I'm going to break out my 1/32 Trumpeter kit and see if I can use it as inspiration.

Kev

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Still pretty slow going, but I'm inching along. I've finished the cut out for the port exhaust:

port_exhaust.jpg

Here's the starboard one still being boxed in:

stbd_exhaust.jpg

They're not really that accurate, but wartime photos seem to show a much more square shape than that exhibited by the Fighter Factory rebuild. Could it be that the exhaust panels on that are not original? The drawings in the Warpaint book don't fill me with confidence either, especially around the cowling and exhaust areas.

Earlier in the piece I started in on the PE. I hate PE! So I can only stand to do a little bit at a time. I really wish I'd plumped for a resin seat. I don't like the PE one at all.

photoetch.jpg

Here's what I've just started using as my PE bending and folding tool:

flip-r5.jpg

It's the Flip-R5 from RB Productions. Radu's tools are excellent, and well worth investigating.

More soon!

Kev

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:analintruder:Noooiiissseee... Slowly but steady. Excuse my absence, Kev; I've sort of been doin' time. Bobbies are serious crooks down here, y'know.

Could it be that the exhaust panels on that are not original? The drawings in the Warpaint book don't fill me with confidence either, especially around the cowling and exhaust areas.

Yeh, me is much afraid so, my mate. Top that off, my friend told me he seems to have misplaced my D&S F4F Volume. Couldn't help but feel like misplacing his right eye ball in return... <_<

Earlier in the piece I started in on the PE. I hate PE! So I can only stand to do a little bit at a time. I really wish I'd plumped for a resin seat. I don't like the PE one at all.

In all honesty, yer PE seat looks just like the real thing, y'know. I real pity those poor jocks who ever had to fly long missions over the Pacific sittin' on those pieces of tin cans.

Here's what I've just started using as my PE bending and folding tool:

flip-r5.jpg

There it is that strange tool I've seen so many times... :hmmm: Would ya please enlighten me about the way it works, Kev? Perhaps ya could take a picture while some PE is being bent?

Thanks, my mate! And keep it up.

Unc²

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:analintruder:Noooiiissseee...

Thanks buddy. Looks like it's just you and me on this one; nobody else seems much interested.

There it is that strange tool I've seen so many times... :hmmm: Would ya please enlighten me about the way it works, Kev? Perhaps ya could take a picture while some PE is being bent?

Will do. It's hard to photograph because it's shiny stainless steel, and consequently hard to work out what's what in the photo. But I'll try to get some clear example photos for you.

In the meantime I've been finishing and refining the exhaust cutouts. I'm not overly happy with them, so I'm hoping they'll do. I think I need to get a coat of primer on to properly see how they've turned out. Interestingly, with regard to the shape, I had a look at a build-up of the Hobbyboss FM-2 online (could even be on here somewhere), and it shows the same basic exhaust shape as the FF example. So, either that's the true shape of the cutout, or HB used the FF example as their pattern (of course, both options could be true too!).

More soon.

Kev

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I just wanted to say that I've been watching this unfold, too, I just haven't had anything to add to the mix. I know how I've felt when I've had a project going and it appeared that nobody else was looking in at the thread. I have a KMC conversion for the Tamiya Wildcat to use one of these days, I'll need to find another Tamiya Wildcat first, though. You're a brave man, doing this using the venerable Monogram kit.

Edited by silverkite211

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I just wanted to say that I've been watching this unfold, too, I just haven't had anything to add to the mix. I know how I've felt when I've had a project going and it appeared that nobody else was looking in at the thread. I have a KMC conversion for the Tamiya Wildcat to use one of these days, I'll need to find another Tamiya Wildcat first, though. You're a brave man, doing this using the venerable Monogram kit.

Thanks man. I guess my comment sounded a little whiny, huh. This whole project is more of a "because it's there" thing than anything else, and I really have no idea how it's going to turn out. I've never built the Tamiya Wildcat, but I've heard it's very nice. Seems pointless to build the Monogram kit OOB, when the Tamiya kit will give you much more for much less work. I've been able to arrange acquisition of an old Revell 1/32 Wildcat, and plan to give it the same fate, so in some ways this is a dress rehearsal for that project!

Kev

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