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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
Guest snipersmudge

Winsor & Newton Galeria Matt Varnish

26 posts in this topic

After seeing a couple of threads where people have mentioned that they used this stuff for matt varnish I thought I would have a go. So today on a shopping route march with mrs sniper I acquired a bottle just to see if it was any good. My first impression on opening the bottle was that it had no strong smell and seemed quite thick so a drop of tap water was mixed in with some and into the airbrush it went.

Tried it on my current panzer project and was immediately impressed with how quickly it went flat, I sprayed a couple of light coats then had a go at a heavier coat and it just went flat as a pancake! Totality impressed so far, a lot less hassle than xtracrylixs and gunze both of which can clog the nozzle and spatter as well as cover up any effects already built up. I also found that it needs a lot less coats to get a nice finish and seems to self level. Works out cheaper than the others I have been using and no smell and a lot less residue in the air. Will be letting it dry for 24hrs then will see how it fairs during the rest of the weathering stages. I think this could be the ONE for me!

DSCF0042.jpg

DSCF0038.jpg

DSCF0041.jpg

Pete

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.... then will see how it fairs during the rest of the weathering stages. I think this could be the ONE for me!

W&N tell me its removable (web site says Unique formula removable varnish), with high PH substance or water. Should be ok as long as its the last substance onto an object, water though will certainly do it harm. No good for the Pro-Modeller wash methinks...maybe ok for spirit based oil paint washes.

Contrary to this, Daler Rowney do a 'Soluble Gloss Varnish' suits System 3 and Cryla (formerly called Cryla Varnish) that is removable with turpentine or white spirit it says on the label in small type. I was told one can use a good grade white spirit to thin it for spraying, again no good for spirit thinned oil paint washes then !

Merlin

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Useful to know. What did you clean the Airbrush with to clear it out? Is distilled water good enough.

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Useful to know. What did you clean the Airbrush with to clear it out? Is distilled water good enough.

I just gave it a blast through with good old tap water no problems.

Note to mods, maybe this topic could be pinned? might be a useful reference for the future?

Edited by snipersmudge

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I'm convinced enough to get a bottle :)

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I'm convinced enough to get a bottle :)

It is definitely the matt varnish for me! I have now used it on my Dodge WC54 ambulance and again got super results with no effort at all just the job!

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Brushes on damn well too.

Andy

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I'm convinced enough to get a bottle :)

Me too! I've been using Kleer with Tamiya flat base and a final thin coat of flat Xtracrylix. The Galeria looks like it could be useful to replace the Xtracrylix.

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Just used some , its gives the mattest finnish of anything i have ever used, Dried Totaly Flat, And i have tried everything, it dries in around 12 hours totaly , around 6-8 to work on,

I decanted it into a larger bottle, thinned a little with distilled water and it sprayed like a dream, 15-20 PSi ,Cleaned brush with tap water and then blasted through with Iso,

Sprayed on top of Kleer / Model wash with no bad effects, I Paid £3.75 for the bottle

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I've got to agree with the comment about it being the most matt finish I've ever seen. I used some on my Airfix Starter Set GB Harrier, as I didn't want to test it out on a serious project. Thinned only a little with water (thinned it too much the first time) and airbrushed on, it dried overnight quite happily.

Before:

Har2.jpg

After:

harmatt.jpg

Before:

Har1.jpg

After:

harmatt2.jpg

Possibly a little TOO matt for my taste - full size objects are rarely dead matt, but tend to have a slight sheen to them. I might try thinning it with Klear next time, instead of water. Maybe that'll work.

Cheers,

Dean

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I also have been 'searching' for the better matte coat.

I used Humbrol but that really needed to be shaken and stirred and then some! and even then would occassionally leave white spots and wasn't really matte. Testors flat finish is lacquer based and is 'hot' and can cause acrylic paints and decals to run or melt respectively if brushed on more than once or too heavy handed (can't comment on airbrushing).

I recently got some Polly Scale matt and it is the flattest(?sp) matte so far. It looks just like the above W&N before and after shots.

Anyway, I have ordered some W&N too and will try it out as well. Interesting that once dry it is still susseptible to water removing it. My understanding with most varnishes is that once dry they are (usually) impervious to whatever is used to thin them (Any comments on this?).

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I'm currently making my own flat coat by mixing Tamiya clear gloss with Flat base and laquer thinner. I like everything about it but sometimes I get white spots. What are these and how do I prevent them?

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I just gave it a blast through with good old tap water no problems.

Note to mods, maybe this topic could be pinned? might be a useful reference for the future?

Hi Pete,

I started using this stuff about a year ago. The only thing I found to be a pain was the drying time. For some reason my batch takes bleedin' ages.

Good stuff though.

BB

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I'm currently making my own flat coat by mixing Tamiya clear gloss with Flat base and laquer thinner. I like everything about it but sometimes I get white spots. What are these and how do I prevent them?

Thats the reason I moved away from this mix as it can be a bit hit and miss (due to my ineptitude I might add).

Usually the white spots are that the flat base hasn't been stirred enough or your ratio of future isn't high enough.

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why don't you use a hair drier?

I am using one and its dry in minutes!

Because I'm as bald as a snooker ball and have never needed one :analintruder:

I think I will get the other half to buy one for me. I can't handle the shame of going into Argos as a 'chrome dome' asking for a hair dryer... haha

Baldy Von Buckles

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Possibly a little TOO matt for my taste - full size objects are rarely dead matt, but tend to have a slight sheen to them. I might try thinning it with Klear next time, instead of water. Maybe that'll work.

Cheers,

Dean

I notice they do a satin finish, would that be better?

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Thanks for the recommendation, Sir -I'll certainly give it a go!

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Just to rehash the information W&N Varnish is available as

Matt

Satin

Gloss

The choice of wepon Gentlemen (and Ladies) is yours!

Paul

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I used some on my Airfix Starter Set GB Harrier,

Those are incredibly compelling before & afters. I've been using Dullcote from a rattle can, and I like it but it isn't anything like as matt as your example.

Sounds like a trip to the art shop is on the cards.

Will

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I have used the W&N for a while-the good thing for me is that it always gives a consistent finish,great stuff.I wonder though if there is a different finish between airbrushing and 'hairy stick' brushing-I use 'hairy sticks' and I get a very slight sheen rather than completely matt-which I prefer for aircraft.

Mike

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I have used the matt varnish on a test spitfire 1:72 and its great stuff, a great a revelation as Klear was for gloss finish. Brushes on from the bottom fine but will need a few coats to cover. Leaves decals matt and sealed in nicely.

I have used Klear to set decals on this experiment spit, but the clear parts of the decals retain there gloss look after 3 coats of matt WN varnish. Now, would it be possible to set a decal with this WN matt varnish to avoid the gloss effect of Klear?

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Did a small test with the Klear coated Spitfire parts today. Added some WN matt to the surface and added a decal there with a fair amount of see through film on it, pressed it into pkace with hot water on a kitchen towel and left to dry. Seemed to take very well with no silvering to be seen. Afterwards i placed another coat of WN ontop and let to dry. See the results in the morning.

Edited by X Wing Flyboy

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Just been to Hobbycraft, anyone wanting Windsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish had better get a wiggle on, the range is apparently being discontinued

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