nick Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) Spurred on by new veolicity stacks, got some work done on the monocoque today. Still need to add A LOT of rivets. Added some copper wire to simulate the windings on the alternator as well after doing some more research, quite pleased with how this has turned out. Removed the moulded strap from the extinguisher bottle and scratch made a new one from ali with a wire buckle. Still need to plumb all this. Struggling for references for this area at the moment if anyone has anything? Thanks for looking Nick Edited May 3, 2010 by nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedfellows Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Really nice work Nick, you got the engine colours spot on! Hope you've got the valve clearances correct and you checked the end float on the crankshaft! Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 That is amazing work, very rare to see a scale engine detailed to this level of detail and realism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentalguru Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) Fantasti work without a doubt, but I'm not sure- but you have probably made a little mistake with those butterfly plates. I would strongly suggest an engine of that period would have a slide throttle arrangement- I managed to find one photo- but not enough detail to call one way or the other. However- the site locked up- so it may have some bugs? http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/images/larg...i-312-T4_12.jpg Edited May 3, 2010 by Mentalguru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Fantasti work without a doubt, but I'm not sure- but you have probably made a little mistake with those butterfly plates.I would strongly suggest an engine of that period would have a slide throttle arrangement- I managed to find one photo- but not enough detail to call one way or the other. However- the site locked up- so it may have some bugs? http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/images/larg...i-312-T4_12.jpg You may well be right, I have been lacking good refernces generally for this project and am going for 'looks feasible' rather than accurate under the circumstances! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Tango Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Wow, that is one hell of an engine, superb build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gajman Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 That really is looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) Got some work done today after a long lay-off. Most of the suspension is built now and the body panels are in primer> I will post some pictures later Or maybe not. Got A LOT of work to do on the suspension. Built as supplied in the kit and it's held together with about 20 very visible, very non-scale cross head screws. Hmm. Current thinking is lock everything off with cyano, then carefully, very carefully, grind all the heads back to very thin disks which I can then detail with nuts, bolts allen heads as appropriate. Apart from the front top coil over mounting which appears to be a large nurled nut affair wire locked off. Not a bloody big hex head screw anyway. also hit on the idea of very diluted and wet PVA with a thin layer of static grass saturated into to it replicate the rough, black glass fibre on the inside of all the panels:- Nick Edited June 5, 2010 by nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 (edited) Heres where I'm up to:- Scratch built the pedals from ali as per the photo I posted earlier, also started to add some allen head bolte to the suspension mountings:- Also used some ali sheet on the floor and fabricated the throttle cable. Fairly happy with the result Here's the full size My attempt at Fiberglass is shown below, It's overdone on one side and needs more paint to 'wet it more' fairly OK though I think? Also turned down some ali drive shafts that you can't really see in this picture. Lastly decided to substitute my enourmous screws with brass tubing that seems to be working OK so far We're getting there finally (-: Although still toying with the idea of doing it properly and sheeting and rivetting the entire tub from sheet ali. Don't have a full set of drawings or photos to pull this off right now. I may come back to it one day. Nick Edited June 17, 2010 by nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 Fantastic work Nick, simply superb!! I really like your idea for the rough fibreglass effect & the tyres look fantastic - did they come like that in the kit, or have you treated the surface somehow? Really brilliant build! Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 Fantastic work Nick, simply superb!! I really like your idea for the rough fibreglass effect & the tyres look fantastic - did they come like that in the kit, or have you treated the surface somehow?Really brilliant build! Keef Tyres have had a good dremlling with a coarse drum and a light touch, If you're careful, they get just hot enough for the rubber to come off in a realistic way. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 Tyres have had a good dremlling with a coarse drum and a light touch, If you're careful, they get just hot enough for the rubber to come off in a realistic way.Nick Thanks Nick, I shall have to try that (on an old tyre first though, methinks!! ) Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 Right, well I've ripped that to bits now. I have spent too much time on the engine and the rest of the car to put up with a rubbish tub. I have removed everything and getting the shape correct without gaps. I have removed all of the suspension points and will be scratch building more correct mounts after I have clad the tub with ali plates which are very visible on the full size. I now need to punch about about 2000 pop rivets )-: thinking of making a tool actually, watch this space When does this close again? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 This is really looking good, Nick. As for the deadline, well, you don't want to go in to work this month, do you? Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 12, 2010 Author Share Posted June 12, 2010 (edited) Well the tear-down is done, so is the filling and prep, starting to fabricate the ali sheet panels now. There is a weird crenelated texture to the rear bulkhead, so spray mounted some microballoons to put under the foil:- Also there are hollow triangular structures supporting the suspension arms, so had a go at replicating these whilst I was at it, hence the vee shaped cut outs I've settled for a technique of BMF for all the edges and curved surfaces, then fabricating panels from ali sheet for the rest I think this will work. I'm currently building a tool that will punch out pop-rivets - watch this space Thanks for looking Nick Edited June 13, 2010 by nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 (edited) Nick I have somewhere a couple of photos of the suspension mounts. They appear to be made by folding a flat sheet into a hollow triangle. Welding this into the chassis wall then welding four tubes into it. The centre one forms the suspension arm the outer three are cut to a point and appear to be there merely to centre and reinforce the arm itself. Hope this helps. THC Edited June 13, 2010 by The Hooded Claw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share Posted June 13, 2010 Nick I have somewhere a couple of photos of the suspension mounts. They appear to be made by folding a flat sheet into a hollow triangle. Welding this into the chassis wall then welding four tubes into it. The centre one forms the suspension arm the outer three are cut to a point and appear to be there merely to centre and reinforce the arm itself.Hope this helps. THC That makes sense, I have formed the hollow triangular section that you can see in one of my later photos, if you do hav some pictures of it that would be very useful Thanks for the help Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share Posted June 13, 2010 (edited) Got some more work done today. The rivets look OK just punched from the reverse side so have gone for this for the interior which is complete now. Just the outside to do, which is much easier. I think this, although a lot of effort, has been worth it and I'm much happier with the result. Nick Edited June 13, 2010 by nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 That looks tremendous Nick, I agree well worth the effort! Great stuff! Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 Actually starting to enjoy this now, there is a knack to it, and it's actually quite easy when you figure out how to do it. I will certainly use this technique again Lead foil looks a lot like titanium for the many-rivetted brackets on the roll bar I reckon Thanks for looking Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 That looks absolutely fantastic!!! Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deon Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Nick, one thing you are missing is the Positive battery terminal needs a rubber boot over it, because if you accidentally touch it to anything else metal, it will short with the chance of a fire, blowing the electrics or worse case senario the battery exploding in your face........ the Negative does not need one as it will be a negative earth return through the chassis, Staggering build BTW . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Very impressive. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Looking better every day. THC Looking better every day. THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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