Jump to content

1:32 Hunters


Iain Ogilvie

Recommended Posts

Iain, keep up the good work, which is proving to be further inspiration for me...........I am eagerly anticipating the arrival of the Fisher models 2-seat conversion I recently purchase, so I can start work on WV318 in the overall-black scheme it wore in the early 1990s. This was the aircraft I took my first fast-jet trip in from Lossiemouth, chasing Buccaneers....Those were the days. I must admit to getting slightly confused over which kit I should use for the conversion ?. I'm guessing the FGA.9 issue because of the brake-para housing but have been in this game long enough to realise it probably isn't as simple as that !. My second Hunter project will be a RSAF FGA.74. I spent 6 years in Singapore during the late 60s and early 70s and well remember these aircraft zotting around the island from Paya Lebar and, later, Tengah and Changi when the RAF handed these bases over.

Tiger331

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tiger,

The F Mk. 6 is the best start point - no need to correct the ailerons, has the correct flaps for vast majority of two-seaters and the Fisher conversion provides the new tailcone with para housing (this is smaller diameter than FGA Mk. 9 as the T7 has the 100 series Avon, rather than 200 series (based on the F. Mk 4 airframe).

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tiger,

The F Mk. 6 is the best start point - no need to correct the ailerons, has the correct flaps for vast majority of two-seaters and the Fisher conversion provides the new tailcone with para housing (this is smaller diameter than FGA Mk. 9 as the T7 has the 100 series Avon, rather than 200 series (based on the F. Mk 4 airframe).

Iain

Iain,

Thanks for this.......I did not realise that the Fisher kit had included the para housing........

Tiger331

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

OK - spent some time today getting the filled hinges perfectly smooth - one benefit of glacial build speeds is that everything gets a chance to dry out/settle. In this case the fill on the upper starboard aileron hinge had cracked and the superglue had started to peel back. So - clean up, re-fill and sand.

Quick comparison - FGA Mk 9 and F6:

180small115.JPG

Pencil lines in correct position on FGA Mk 9 wing - it's here that the error really shows:

180small116.JPG

6" steel rule to be used as scriber guide. Find it helps to use a little folded tape on reverse to keep in position under finger pressure - we don't want that scriber going astray!

180small117.JPG

Scribing with my BareMetal Foil scriber:

180small118.JPG

And the results after opening out the scribed lines with a number of different file profiles:

180small119.JPG

180small120.JPG

Next step - restoring all the lost surface detail.

More soon!

Iain

Edited by 32SIG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Little bit more engraving done - now off to sit on the patio and do some more fettling in the sunshine - would like to get some paint on this weekend!!

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Find it helps to use a little folded tape on reverse to keep in position under finger pressure - we don't want that scriber going astray!

Well I never! You learn something new everyday!! Thanks for that gem of a tip and the kits are looking fabulous!! :speak_cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Mark - funny thing with modelling - you never know what's useful and what isn't when you write this stuff up...

Just detailing the aileron hunges with strip plastic. I *really* want to get some paint on soon!!

And Fisher T Mk 7 Conversion on the way - god help me! :frantic:

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

OK - these suckers are going to get some paint this w/e - come hell, or high water...

Now - decided on silver undersides first - sooo...

How does Tamiya silver stand up to Tamiya tape?

Or, am I better using Alclad?

Thoughts/abuse/suggestions appreciated...

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - these suckers are going to get some paint this w/e - come hell, or high water...

Now - decided on silver undersides first - sooo...

How does Tamiya silver stand up to Tamiya tape?

Or, am I better using Alclad?

Thoughts/abuse/suggestions appreciated...

Iain

Hi Iain

Works well but I added some Johnson's Klear to the paint and this helps it flow and harden within a couple of hours. I used this mix on the bottom of my Lightning T5 and recently on my Hurricane MK 1.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tigger - and were you able to mask over the top OK?

Have been Alcladding the wheels and legs - and not sure if I have enough Aluminium left to do two airframes now (I seem to have loads of bottles of polished aluminium and chrome though!)

So may have a little play with Tamiya silver later today...

Iain

Edited by 32SIG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still looking forward to seeing these done (mind you I'm one to talk!!!). Worth noting that the "High Speed Silver" undersides of Hunters faded to a matt silvery-grey after a short period of time. In fact its often difficult to differentiate between Silver painted and Light Aircraft Grey painted undersides. Personally I wouldn't use Alclad for this - certainly not seeing you've Alclad-ed the jet pipes. My favourite is Mithril Silver from Citadel, looks nice matted down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm...

Just tried Tamiya chrome - and it's a little, well, grainy...

I may have a go with the Mithril silver - but I'm leaning towards Alclad Matt Aluminium...

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Repeat after me...

This is meant to be fun...

This is meant to be fun...

Does anyone else get as stressed as me when it comes to getting a decent overall paint finish? :deadhorse:

Still - the silver seems to be working - even if I keep having to take backward steps to rectify minor blemishes.

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - Quite liking the Mithril Silver - must go get some more.

Wheels and legs being done in Alclad - and weathered with oil paint - here are the wheels:

180small127.JPG

But this acrylic silver seems to be working as a representative 'high speed silver'

180small128.JPG

Airframes given another wash/polis tonight - ready for re-masking tomorrow...

180small129.JPG

180small130.JPG

So, Thanks Bill - good advice it would seem! :)

Iain

Edited by 32SIG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, Thanks Bill - good advice it would seem! :)Iain

My pleasure Iain! I've been looking at these paints a lot lately - they have some excellent colours in their range - and as I have a large stash still (of certain colours anyway) from the shop , I've been looking at seeing what I can use...their "Bleached Bones" is an excellent shade of RAF/RN Sky, Blood Red=Signal Red etc.,

I really do need to get one of my Hunters out and build it!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm...

Come to conclusion that the finish is a little fragile - scratches easily and the Tamiya tape has pulled small amounts adjacent to panel lines...

Others mileage may vay.

Cleaning the paint off the tailplane and tanks now - will have a go with Alclad Aluminium over Alclad Gloss Black.

Will report back.

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My pleasure Iain! I've been looking at these paints a lot lately - they have some excellent colours in their range - and as I have a large stash still (of certain colours anyway) from the shop , I've been looking at seeing what I can use...their "Bleached Bones" is an excellent shade of RAF/RN Sky, Blood Red=Signal Red etc.,

I really do need to get one of my Hunters out and build it!!!

How well do you think a Bleached Bones/Codex Grey combination would work for FAA aircraft?

Joseph

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...