cmatthewbacon Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Second (and last) one is this all-plastic gem from Hasegawa, with full engine etc, and some rather interesting colour options - black, or cream with rainbow stripes included. Dunno which one I'll do yet, mind... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gajman Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Wow, that black scheme looks fantastic, I hope that's the scheme you go for. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Great choice. It does look good in black, too. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 That Black car sold last year for a ridiculous amount. I think it was at Pebble Beach. The car has total provenance been single owner virtually from day one and fully restored. A beautiful car. The Hasegawa kit is lovely, one hint though. The instructions have you glue the side panels front then rear, do it the other way around makes for less fit issues. THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the tip, Hoodie (;-P). I think I will do the black one, given how many other red Ferraris are on the agenda... it's good to have a reason to do a different colour, and it does look very sleek, as you all say! bestest, M. Edited January 3, 2010 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Here's the body assembled, ready for seam line removal and light sanding. The cutaway panels were a little tricky, but with the aid of a couple of plastic tabs and repeated test fits, they're on OK now... And here it is compared with the GTO, which is quite a lot bigger: bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 It's taken a while to get back on the case with this one, but here (at last) is some progress... in unforgiving close-up: I'm not there yet with the flawless shiny bodies that proper car modellers manage, but I can see definite progress from the Scud to the 250 GTO to this. This is painted with Zero paints and the two-pack clearcoat, which is definitely better than the "pre-thinned" one-bottle version. In real life you can't see any silvering around the decals, I don't know where the camera's picked it up from! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Looks good to me. I think the black suits it, too. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muller Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Lovely paintjob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 Thanks, boys... I haven't given up on this one.... just got distracted by Mr Kiss Kiss Bang Bang and the Oddjob-man! Nothing worth photographing at the moment, but I've got the main engine block together and painted silver, the "Testa Rossa" cylinder heads are red, and I've matted down the "chrome" wheels with a mix of Tamiya Smoke and Flat Base to get a slightly more realistic look... But for injected "wire" wheels, I think they look pretty good. bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) More progress... ... I have to say, I'm really impressed by the detail and fit of this kit. Everything slots very neatly into place. The seats are just resting in place - I need to do a bit more tidying up on the "stitching"... bestest, M. Edited March 21, 2010 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I like the way this one is coming along. The stitching effect on the seats really improves them too. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The black finish does look nice and smooth I'd be happy with that. Getting that flawless finish does seem a black art at the moment. I've got the red one of these on the go at the moment and I used the Zero paints but I tried future as my gloss and I have a pebbly finish that I've tried to smooth out as much as possible with polishing sticks. Unfortunately Hiroboy didn't have the gloss when I ordered from them last time but i'll use it on my next car. You're a braver man than me for having a go at the stitching, the combination of many costs along a very thin line scared me off something rotten. It doews bring the seats out nicely though. I agree the fit of the kit is excellent, much better than the Revell GTO that I was working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks, chaps... gcn... did you airbrush your Klear? I find that it does tend to pebbledash... I think it dries in the air before it hits the surface. If it’s just slightly rough, I wouldn’t try to sand it it back -- apply a couple more coats, but with a wide, flat brush. The rough coat will act as a “key”, and it should self level... Get the two pack coat from Hiroboy - you won’t regret it. However - do not be “cavalier” about your health and safety precautions! The components are not at all good for you, so make sure you use a good mask. The thing with it is that it has a “high solid content”, for which read it doesn’t run, and it builds up a really tough clear layer. Follow the instructions - 60% resin, 30% hardener, 10% thinner, mist coat first, then wet coat 10 minutes later, and get a box over the top of it as soon as you’ve finished so that it doesn’t get any dust or hair falling on it while it dries. You’ll find that it’s dust-proof after an hour or so, and after 24 hours in the airing cupboard it’s tough as old boots... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 So... this is where I'm at tonight: I masked off the outside edge of the seat to get a sharper line for the stitching. It's rather too thick, but I think it looks OK. This is the first time I've looked at the top and bottom together - I think the black and red "theme" works really well, and I'm so glad I chose this colour scheme! This: ... has been sending me cross-eyed. It's about 8mm x 4mm! There should be more colours on the various leads, but this was enough... I should do lots more cabling, but... life's too short. I'm calling this one an "OOB" build, in case anyone asks... I'm putting this one in in case anyone else who's planning to build one of these reads this. The fit, as I've mentioned, is great. But I think their assembly sequence for the front framework is a bit mad. Hasegawa would have you fix the radiator between the two side frames, then fix the whole unit on starting at the back. I tried it, and the whole thing fell to bits. (Maybe if you built a template to set the sides at exactly the right "splay" angle, and let it dry completely solid, it might work...) My final sequence was this... Use any glue that give you a little bit of "wiggle time". Fix the back end of one frame into the firewall behind the engine bay, and then drop it into the front socket. Then push the two radiator lugs on the fixed side into place, fix the radiator down at the front. WHILE YOU STILL HAVE WIGGLE TIME, fix the other end of the radiator to the other frame at the front... you'll need to lift the end of the radiator just enough to pop in the lower front corner of the side frame, for a second or two. Finally, holding that corner together with your fingers, flex the two side frame members just enough to pop the far ends into their locations in the firewall. Now waiting for the INTERIOR black on the body shell to dry... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 A real black beauty. Looking forward to seeing her finished. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Today, I have mostly been painting the instrument panel: 1. Covered in Bare Metal Foil 2. Painted around the instruments with Humbrol 33 Matt Black (for the crackle effect). You can scrape it off the raised foiled bezels with a cocktail stick if you're not perfectly accurate. I know this ;-P 3. Decals applied - the words look like white blobs to the naked eye, but in this photo you can see that the dials are actually labelled! 4. Klear in the dial faces, silver switches scraped back, black switches painted with Citadel Chaos Black... you might even be able to see it! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Nice effect, looks good to me. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 At last! Now, getting to this point was nerve-wracking... The bulkhead behind the seats is rather wider than the hole in the bottom, so there's a deal of bending to do to get it together, and I was rather worried that the glued-on sides might split. But with the help of a friendly chap on the Model Cars Mag forum, I decided to drop the bottom in back end first. I put the shell on the bench, upside down, slid the back of the chassis deep into the tail of the shell, let it rest on the sides, and then levered them apart until the chassis droped in. With the front located, the back "popped up" to sit in the right place on the rear edge of the shell. Then... I noticed the radiator grille lying on the bench. I'd cut out the solid middle, and replaced it with mesh, for a "see-through" look, and I'd forgotten to fix it, and the sub-radiator, in place in the "intake. So, out came the chassis again, in went the missing parts, and back in went the chassis... The seat belts aren't great, but I've applied the decals to some wine-bottle foil, to give them a bit more heft and flex. bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Nearly there! I like it. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Probably the last update before final pix - just the lights, straps and catches to do now... The exhausts were OK, though a bit hard to locate at both ends, and the windscreen responded nicely to some BMF. She'll need a clean, though, because I've been handling that shiny black surface a lot, and it shows! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPNGROATS Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 M. Your Testa Rossa looks very real..!! Cheers, ggc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 It does indeed. Great job. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 nice job it looks as though we've finished at the same time, I just need to be home in daylight to get some pictures posted. Did you spray a matt varnish over the wheels, I did and they look very similar to yours, IMO a big improvement over their original shiny appearance. I also beefed up my seatbelts, I just left the backing paper on and painted the edges in the appropriate colour. I also found putting the body over the sub frame a traumatic experience and ended up doing it twice as evertything collapsed the first time. About your question earlier I sprayed and brushed future with the same outcome. I will get that Hiroboy stuff for my next car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 (edited) Right, that's done! More pictures here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...st&p=492793 Yup... I did matt down the wheels with Tamiya "Smoke" with some "Flat Base" added... I really enjoyed this one -- it's a superbly engineered and fitting kit, IMHO... bestest, M. Edited March 26, 2010 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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