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NMF - Metalizing with a brush


Julien

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Well let me just say it first - "I'll be ding-danged!!"

That is some sort of nifty. Now THAT one goes straight to the linky file.

Thank you, Sir Julien :thumbsup:

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  • 4 years later...

I attempted this on my Lightning in the STGB going on right now.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968426-172-airfix-lightning-f2a-flt-lt-bl-blight-ightning/

I found it more difficult than I had hoped and ended up spraying the metalizer. MM metalizer is very 'hot' and when brushed it eats through just about any primer/paint/varnish I threw at it, and can craze the plastic if you're not careful. It may have been that my bottle of Aluminum metalizer had a higher ratio of solvent to pigment than the usual, as I did not have nearly the problems when using the brush method with Dark Anodonic Grey metalizer (those portions survive on my build).

I found that an important factor is the size of the brush: too small and it seems to overload with solvent (I always loaded just from the cap after a good shake like it says to in the article), too big and it doesn't cover as well.

That being said, it does work, and I'm looking forward to seeing the results when a more seasoned modeller than myself attempts it.

Along the same lines, Nimrod (John) pointed these out to me:

http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-colors-pigments-primer/metallic-colors-pigments/

I've ordered some, and they're now on the way. My brushed metalizer experiments will continue!

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Along the same lines, Nimrod (John) pointed these out to me:

http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-colors-pigments-primer/metallic-colors-pigments/

I've ordered some, and they're now on the way. My brushed metalizer experiments will continue!

Alexander was doing a demonstration of his stuff at Telford and it seems impressive stuff, well I bought a tub to try.

He was saying that he wouldn't seal it after application, not so sure how it would stand up to being handled though.

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Colin, I'd love to hear how they work out for you. Mine should arrive soon.

Hey Cooken in your quest for the perfect NMF I have also found this link http://www.580modellers.co.uk/320034460 . This is similar to the method that I used on the exhausts of my Lightning where I used Mr Metal Color, the exception being that I brushed a thin coat on first and then went over this with the same shade using a dry brush technique. But maybe the thin coat is an unnecessary step.

The sound to this link is quite poor but you can get an idea of how it is done and may be useful when your powders arrive.

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Being an enthusiastic fellow, I immediately tried the Uschi pigments and here is the result on a spare piece that I've been using to test paints for a Lightning in the current STGB. I have to say that the stuff works even better than advertised.

IMG_1009_zps592969ff.jpg

I applied the chrome pigment with a cotton bud. The surface is a week and a half dried gloss acrylic dark blue (Lifecolor). It worked great even though it is recommended to apply the dry powder over an acrylic that is dry to the touch but not fully cured (1.5 to 6 hrs after spraying).

I masked over it with Tamiya tape right after applying, and it did not harm the finish at all when I pulled it up. If I rub my finger on the piece, there is a powder residue that comes off, but it doesn't change the finish. This is almost identical to how MM metalizer (sprayed or brushed) acts before it is varnished.

Seeing this, and the video that Nimrod just posted, I think that the trick with the MM & Gunze metalizer may be to let the solvent completely or almost completely evaporate before applying the resulting pigment to the plastic.

I apologize if I've hijacked your thread Julien, but I hope this applies to the topic!

Edit: Julien, I just saw that your original post was in 2009! You probably don't mind a bit. Nothing like being late to the party!

Edited by Cookenbacher
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There is an absolutely blinding build thread on this very forum (a 1/72 P-47, I think), NMF was done using Mr Metal colour* applied by brush. Now I can't find it for the life of me! If anyone recalls this and can post a link, I'd be much obliged; it really is a stunning piece of work!

(*'Ello...I can't get this to spell 'C-O-L-O-R' according to the product name, even using Full Editor! Even this note has been subject to unsolicited spill-chucking! What gives...?)

Edited by AngstROM
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I wanted to add a disclaimer on behalf of the Uschi pigments. The above piece had about five or six layers of paint and varnish on it before I applied the pigments and I did no sanding or surface prep, and it still turned out shiny and metallic. I'm sure that with proper prep, a chrome finish to rival the P-47 linked above could be achieved.

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  • 3 months later...

I did a test piece as preparation for using Uschi pigments on a build.

It's an Academy P-51B/C fuselage that will hopefully be rendered obsolete by the latest AZ/KP effort. I used the brushed metalizer technique just to check for seams. It's a great 'primer' for that purpose as it dries immediately, and exposes even tiny seams.

IMG_1467_zpsdgez5lge.jpg

And then gave it a coat of Vallejo Light Ghost grey primer. Like many, I have trouble sanding Vallejo primer, but it goes on very smooth, and I had taken care of seams already.

IMG_1468_zpsxoaqray2.jpg

I painted the front portion with Lifecolor gloss Sea Blue, and the tail with Tamiya Sea Blue, with a stripe of the Vallejo primer masked off between them.

IMG_1471_zps5peti2eg.jpg

When the paint was dry to the touch, I applied the Uschi pigments with a cotton bud.

IMG_1475_zpsjbcomdvb.jpg

IMG_1476_zpsnqcwl8dx.jpg

The pigments look best on the glossy blue (the Tamiya is quite matt).

I think I'm about ready to use them for real now. The result seems a little dark, so I'll probably use a lighter shade of gloss blue.

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My Uschi pigments arrived today - Steel and Polished Chrome - and as soon as they dropped through the letterbox it was straight to the bench for a little play. Astonishingly easy stuff to use. Lighter base coats are definitely order of the day to get best results.

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