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'Macky' Steinhoff's 109 E-3


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Hi folks:

Tamiya's 48th E-3, in the process of being dressed with Tom Meyer's lovely Possum Werks decals for 'Macky' Steinhoff's E-3 ride in the Battle of Britain.

Some Eduard etch bumps the detail in the cockpit.

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In traction...

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Oil paint filler dealt with some fine gaps...

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Gunze acrylic RLM 65 and 04 were partnered with cellulose for the base paint...

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A slight variation on the pre-shade theme was used on the pristine paint. A rectangle of irregularly holed sponge, together with a couple of grades of scourer pad were 'painted' with black Humbrol enamel. Dabbed, dragged, streaked and tapped on the Gunze 65 they soon left a variety of shapes in the base paint.

A thin overspray of 65 was run over said areas until cooked. Over that the Chris Wauchop mix of very thin Tam red brown and Nato black was loaded up and sprayed at about 10-12 psi into the panel lines, hinging points and various other places, the yellow lower cowl included. The brush was no more than about an inch above the surface and the MO is to lightly 'draw' in the delicate shade. You've got the mix right when a line needs 3-5 passes to achieve a subtle shade. A conventional raw umber and white spirit wash bumped up the panel lines and rivets before being left to dry.

An overspray of Tam clear with their flat base added was cooked up to give an egg shell seal over the weathering - partnered with cellulose. I do this to protect it from further masking - round the wheel wells for instance, that still need to be 02'd, otherwise when the tape comes up the weathering can follow.

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What remains of the kit now huddles together for mutual support...

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Best regards

Steve

Edited by Ogri
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You have my attention!

How come that '65 looks right in your photo's, yet always appears way to dark in the tin, and after painting out samples? Have you lightened it?

Hi:

Thanks for this - no, the Gunze's straight out of the glass jar. The photos appear the same as the actual model (i.e. the pics are not overexposed - a factor that can be misleading in assessing tone). I haven't lightened the base coat and stuck to the weathering mentioned in the text so sorry I can't account for your experience.

Best regards

Steve

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Oil paint filler dealt with some fine gaps...

OK, I'm all ears - care to expand on this technique? It sounds interesting. And it's a lovely model as well.

Jeff

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Hi folks:

A little extra explanation is in order...here are pics of the two inch sponge piece and scouring pads 'painted' lightly with black enamel and transferred to the model (I only used the ultra course dark grey and the finer green).

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As you'll see in the shot immediately above, the course scourer is very course - ideal for scratch-like marks. I had a pleasant hour touring several books checking out the worn undersurfaces of Emils, 110s and Stukas (such as could be seen), which revealed a myriad of marks and scuffs. What I did was no more than begin to imitate that but in truth, there's lots more that could (and will) be done next kit. For instance, I'll be doing the black sponge / scourer pre-shade again but adding white as a second stage. In theory, that should leave marks lighter than the base. We'll see...

As for paint quantities - I suggest any one contemplating a bash at this base coats some plastic card or a scrap kit and fires some ranging shots first. Best to lightly apply paint to the scourers and sponge and build up as you feel is necessary. Your enamel needs to be 'loose' - that is dilute enough to lay flat on the model (if it's heavily pigmented it'll wind up as 'bumps' on the surface) but pigmented enough to leave the requisite black micro marks and line-like scuffs.

In essence, the physical application of scourer or sponge is neither 'wet brush' nor 'dry brush' but both. When first applied, paint will be wet but diminish as you travel over the model. Dab, jab, drag, tap and vary the movements in every way you can for variety.

Best regards

Steve

NB: I've had the scourers for years - they're Scotchbrite I believe.

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Hi folks:

A little extra explanation is in order...here are pics of the two inch sponge piece and scouring pads 'painted' lightly with black enamel and transferred to the model (I only used the ultra course dark grey and the finer green).

Jpg13.jpg

Jpg14.jpg

As you'll see in the shot immediately above, the course scourer is very course - ideal for scratch-like marks. I had a pleasant hour touring several books checking out the worn undersurfaces of Emils, 110s and Stukas (such as could be seen), which revealed a myriad of marks and scuffs. What I did was no more than begin to imitate that but in truth, there's lots more that could (and will) be done next kit. For instance, I'll be doing the black sponge / scourer pre-shade again but adding white as a second stage. In theory, that should leave marks lighter than the base. We'll see...

As for paint quantities - I suggest any one contemplating a bash at this base coats some plastic card or a scrap kit and fires some ranging shots first. Best to lightly apply paint to the scourers and sponge and build up as you feel is necessary. Your enamel needs to be 'loose' - that is dilute enough to lay flat on the model (if it's heavily pigmented it'll wind up as 'bumps' on the surface) but pigmented enough to leave the requisite black micro marks and line-like scuffs.

In essence, the physical application of scourer or sponge is neither 'wet brush' nor 'dry brush' but both. When first applied, paint will be wet but diminish as you travel over the model. Dab, jab, drag, tap and vary the movements in every way you can for variety.

Best regards

Steve

NB: I've had the scourers for years - they're Scotchbrite I believe.

Great technique Steve, not seen it before but the results speak for themselves I'll be giving it a go myself.

Thanks for the tip

Nick

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OK, I'm all ears - care to expand on this technique? It sounds interesting. And it's a lovely model as well.

Jeff

Hi Jeff:

Thanks for that - I was referring to artist's oil paint and Liquin mixed 5 to 1 and 'painted' into fine gaps until proud of the surface and overfilled. Here it shows as white line areas as I used white oil paint for contrast -

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Here's the assembled bits -

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Removing the excess oil paint is easy. I usually use one of the square tipped artists rubber charcoal smudging tools. They come in 'hard' and 'soft' grade I believe. Mine are hard (the 'soft' really is soft!) -

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Just wipe away the excess as necessary. If you take a little too much just re-apply. It's an absolute honey of a technique and doesn't damage the plastic or surrounding detail. If it does go where it's unwanted just brush it out or use a pin to remove from adjacent or joining panel lines. Some times just wiping a finger over it is enough. The Liquin gives a 1-2 day dry time and it takes all top coats with impunity. You can custom colour it to suit as and when.

The net result is a build that's 'all of a piece'. On the 109 the raised flaps gapped slightly. Under oil paint and Gunze 65 you'd never know...

The lower flap here gapped, meaning a panel shade / wash would fail. Oil paint bridged it and the rubber brushes scooped out a self leveling repair that looks like the joint was perfect once under some 65.

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Good luck with it.

Steve

Edited by Ogri
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Good luck with it.

Thanks, Steve. I'll give it a go sometime. Following this build with interest too. Nice work so far.

Jeff

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Great technique Steve, not seen it before but the results speak for themselves I'll be giving it a go myself.

Thanks for the tip

Hi Nick:

No worries - wish you well with it.

Best regards

Steve

Note to self...why hasn't Vince dropped by to slate my 'over tidy' bench yet...?

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  • 1 month later...

Hi folks:

The pristine upper camo paint's been attacked sufficiently now to warrant glossing up for decals before pushing on with rounding off that stage of things.

It may just be finished for New Year's Eve but I think this coming Sunday, come Monday is more likely. Gunze RLM71 and RLM02 is up top; the 71 has reproduced rather monochrome and in fact is a very 'cold' green in the jar anyway. I'm trusting Gunze, although I may slightly 'warm' the colour a little with a transparent overlay of something like Gunze RLM82/83. I checked Bret Green's Eduard 32nd scale 'E' in the same scheme and his has reproduced tonally the same as mine - hardly a surprise, as he used Gunze too I believe... :D

I'm a very big fan of Roger Fabrocini's models and after lengthy periods umm-ing and aahh-ing over which direction to go post fresh camo, plagiarised what I deduced was his approach to his own E-3...-ish, with a little fiddling about of my own. All in all, getting this far has been a barrel load of fun and I've enjoyed it immensely. I'm looking forward to 'weathering with flat' once the decs are on.

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I came across this quite by accident on Hyperscale - it's Tom Meyer's original side view art work, which differs a little from that in the decal set, insofar as the wing root is shown in upper camo for the E-3 I'm doing but was left in RLM65 by Tom first time around.

OriginalSideView.gif

Happy New Year to y'all.

Steve :)

Edited by Ogri
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Incredibly proficient and instructive artwork. Thank you for sharing.

Will you also share the photographic evidence? It will be intruguing to compare your progress with images of the actual aeroplane.

Regards,

Dave.

Hi Dave:

Thanks for this. I don't have any photos of the E-3 'in the flesh'. The purpose of this build is to commemorate Tom Meyers, Art Director at Accurate Miniatures, who died suddenly on 18 December 2008, aged 49. Here's a link that gives some more background to Tom and his role in the modeling community:

Tom Meyers

Tom had a particular interest in certain aircraft and pilots. One of them was Johannes 'Macky' Steinhoff, so myself and some others at Agapemodels.com have been running some builds using Accurate Miniatures kits or Tom's own Possum Werks decals in honour of his memory.

Tom was someone I corresponded with over at Agape; in fact, my first contact with him was in connection with an on-line build competition run by Accurate Miniatures through Tom. I was lucky enough to win with an IL-2 and part of the resulting prize was a sheet of Possum Werks decals for 'Macky' Steinhoff - hence my choice here.

Tom's oft used phrase was 'now go build something' - I'm off to finish doing just that...

Best regards

Steve :)

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Thats looking really nice, could you tell me what the code is for Tamiya 'clear'? i'd like to try that method as the results look fantastic!

Can't wait to see this when its done, keep up the great work!

Adam

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The purpose of this build is to commemorate Tom Meyers, Art Director at Accurate Miniatures, who died suddenly on 18 December 2008, aged 49. Here's a link that gives some more background to Tom and his role in the modeling community: Tom Meyers

Hi Steve,

Thanks for that information. I had no idea Tom passed away last year and I am most saddened to hear it.

This makes your build even more special and commendable.

I shall certainly be following your essay with even more interest.

Regards,

Dave.

Edited by Dave Gibson
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Thats looking really nice, could you tell me what the code is for Tamiya 'clear'? i'd like to try that method as the results look fantastic!

Can't wait to see this when its done, keep up the great work!

Adam

Hi Adam:

Thanks for that and apologies for the delay. Tamiya Clear is X22. However, since using that, I've swopped to Gunze acrylic H30 clear with their H40 Flat Base and find it even better than the Tam.

Happy New Year to you and yours.

Best regards

Steve :)

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Will you also share the photographic evidence?

superb finish Steve ..but to answer Dave's question the only pic I've managed to locate of a 4./JG 52 Emil marked with a 'Weisse 1' and dated 1940 is on P68 of the Bernd Barbas self-published work " Geschichte der II. Gruppe des Jagdgeschwaders 52 " - unfortunately it shows the a/c with a rather heavy mottle, so presumably photographed later in the year and probably not even an E-3 either ..(canopy not fully visible..)

Edited by FalkeEins
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superb finish Steve ..but to answer Dave's question the only pic I've managed to locate of a 4./JG 52 Emil marked with a 'Weisse 1' and dated 1940 is on P68 of the Bernd Barbas self-published work " Geschichte der II. Gruppe des Jagdgeschwaders 52 " - unfortunately it shows the a/c with a rather heavy mottle, so presumably photographed later in the year and probably not even an E-3 either ..(canopy not fully visible..)

Thanks for that - I appreciate the research you've done. I have no doubt about Tom's certainty on this one though (about a high backed, un-mottled E-3 as Steinhoff's ride at this point in his combat career). The sheet was released after at least two years worth of checking out Steinhoffs F-4, G-2 and G-6 as well (that I'm aware of) and decals for these are also included. If however, Tom got this completely wrong then it doesn't matter - the purpose of this exercise being simply to remember Tom through the hobby he loved and have a bit of fun along the way.

Thanks again.

Steve :)

Edited by Ogri
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..no probs ..I was curious too....the sheet sounds very interesting..any link ?

looking a little further afield re the references Lela Presse have produced a great cheap little reference on JG 52 ..most of the 4. Staffel machines illustrated therein show the 'red cat with arched back' emblem located just underneath the cockpit...

http://www.avions-bateaux.com/en/catalogue...logue_1309.html

.. 110 A-4 pages, soft cover, French text... for only 13 euros you get 200 + nicely reproduced photos on A-4 glossy paper and Thierry Dekker's artwork..compare that with what's on offer (for example) in the Osprey Elite title (no comparison!)..Vol II due soon

Edited by FalkeEins
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I really like the leather strap securing the hatch behind the pilots head. Now THAT, sir, is an endearing detail.

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..no probs ..I was curious too....the sheet sounds very interesting..any link ?

looking a little further afield re the references Lela Presse have produced a great cheap little reference on JG 52 ..most of the 4. Staffel machines illustrated therein show the 'red cat with arched back' emblem located just underneath the cockpit...

http://www.avions-bateaux.com/en/catalogue...logue_1309.html

.. 110 A-4 pages, soft cover, French text... for only 13 euros you get 200 + nicely reproduced photos on A-4 glossy paper and Thierry Dekker's artwork..compare that with what's on offer (for example) in the Osprey Elite title (no comparison!)..Vol II due soon

Hi:

Thanks again for the reasearch pointers - I really do appreciate it very much.

On the links front there's this review: MM review and this from the Possum Werks catalog: Possum Werks catalog and here's a UK supplier: Blackbird Models

Best regards

Steve :)

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Hi folks:

All glossed up and no-where to go...probably the last update before finishing.

Rather strangely (for a Cartograf sheet) the decals refused to wrinkle and melt into panel lines, despite Microsol, Daco Strong or Gunze's own decal softener (designed to bludgeon stiffJapanesedecs into submission). A scalpel and hairdryer combined to settle them in pretty thoroughly but there'll likely be further remedials required once the flat coat's on and traces of silvering become apparent. Not a problem however and dead easy to sort.

On the plus side, the markings are beautifully printed and the stencils can all be read clearly under the Optovisor, which is just amazing.

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After several hours in the Russian winter that is the inside of one's modelling bunker, one now shakes like Funky Kitty... funky-kitty.gif

Steve :)

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Thanks for the info Steve, most helpful!

Happy new year, all the best for 2010 and this lovely build!

Adam

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