beeza1 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I have started my third WNW kit, this time it is the Bristol F.2b fighter. I decided to start at the front end just for something different. Here are a few pics of the Rolls Royce Falcon engine to be fitted to the model, also fitted is the Vickers gun tube. The radiator will be fitted next along with the water pipes. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Now that is rather nice... How did you get the burnished shade on the exhausts? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Bl***y hell, thats nice!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Hi Nick. The exhaust is painted using Humbrol matt rust No. 113 (airbrushed thinned 50/50). I then use the dust from a propelling pencil lead applied by using a small stiff brush, the more you put on the darker the tone. When you have the desired shading, overcoat with matt clear. Avoid handling after the lead is applied as it does rub off until coated and sealed. Rub the lead on a bit of fine wet and dry paper to obtain the lead dust. Des. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Here are some pics of my finished Rolls Royce Falcon engine. The prop still needs a few coats of gloss clear. Cheers Des. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thanks for that tip too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overhaulin Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thats a model on it's own. Almost seems a shame to wings and fusealge on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingo Degenhardt Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 That is a great engine, not to speak of the propeller! How did you get that wood pattern (correct word?) look so realistic? Ingo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trubbie Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Des, A lovely job indeed. What did you use to replicate the 'brass' bits on the camshafts? Humbrol Brass just doesn't look right. Has anybody tried to fit the cowlings over the engine? It would be a pity to hide such beauty, I know, but very often the cowlings on kits that show the engines just don't fit. I hope Wingnuts are different. Well done. Trubbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magpie Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Nice job on the prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks everyone for your nice comments. Ingo. - I first painted the prop using Gunze H37 wood brown water based paint. Once dry I then used Burnt Sienna artists oil paint. I used a small stiff brush adding and subtracting as required until the desired affecr is achieved. I put the prop in my heat box and left for 2 days to dry. I then painted the prop boss using Humbrol 27003 polished steel. I have yet to spray a coat of gloss clear, then apply the decals and then two more coats of gloss clear. Trubbie - For the brass look I always use Liquid Gold Leaf, you can get this from a craft shop or larger hardware shops that have a craft section. It goes on very smooth and dries within 2 hours, can be brushed or sprayed. I agree with you about the Humbrol brass not looking like brass, very similar to the copper they produce, looks nothing like real copper. I have dry fitted the engine cowlings and the fit is pretty good. The only problem I had was the drain cock and pipe I made and fitted under the oil tank did foul on the cowling, it was just a simple matter of bending the pipe inwards a little. I will be leaving the cowls off this model so as to display the engine to it's fullest. Hope this will help Cheers Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Just a quickie up-date on whats been happening with my Bristol. After a lot of tedious work, strained eyes, sore back and not so nimble fingers I finally finished the wicker seat. I set it up on the fuel tank just for the photos. The fuel tank still needs more work and the cockpit floor has just been painted with oils so after a few days of drying it will be clear coated. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 'Ow do Des Phwoar!!....this is a stonking build so far. You're a very talented bloke mate Having made a wicker seat for a Sopwith Camel a while back I know how you must feel. Your version came out beautifully I'm eager to see more, please keep the updates coming. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Totally EXQUISITE wicker seat.... Very NEAT and SUPERB build !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Superb job so far Des Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Thanks guys for your nice words, much appreciated. Here are two more pics showing my progress to date, I should have the cockpit enclosed within the fuselage this weekend. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Another photo with the engine dry fitted just to see what it is going to look like. Looks like I will be busy this weekend, hopefully have the fuselage all together. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbhi2 Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 WOW....That looks absolutely stunning. I may have missed an earlier point, but how did you do the cable ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi Wilbhi2 Thanks for your kind comments. The bracing cables are 0.17mm mono and the ends are 0.4mm brass tube. I drilled the brass tube with a 0.3mm drill bit just to make it a bit easier to slip the mono through and cut them to a length of 1.5mm. I put two brass tubes on the mono, fixed the mono into the fuselage frame then slipped the brass tube to each end and fixed with a small drop of CA. A little bit fiddly but very rewarding. Hope this helps you. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbhi2 Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 very much so. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Excellent build full of useful tips. I'll be using them on my se5a build for the WW1 GB early in the New Year. What base colour do you use for the lighter wood. I hope there's plenty of piccies of the various stages of the rigging when you get to that stage as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks gcn for your comments. The base colour for the cockpit floor is 2 coats of Gunze Radome H318, once dry I then applied thinned Raw Sienna oil paint using a small stiff brush. After about 3 days I sprayed it with Humbrol Matt Clear. The lightness or darkness of the finished timber colour depends on your application of the oil paint, if it is too dark just clean your brush and drag over the paint again, keep doing this until your desired colour and grain pattern is achieved. Happy modelling Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spad57 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Des, What can I say other than WOW.Your thread just keeps getting better with each new update my friend.Very impressive artistry and craftsmanship throughout,but the seat you built is something else. Excellent work and keep us posted as to your progress. Regards, Gregory Jouette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Just the one photo this time. The fuselage is all closed up, the engine is now fixed in position, paint, decals and clear coat applied, gun mounting platform has been wood grained and fixed in position. Prop and guns are there for photo purpose only. Modelling has been a bit slow this last week as I have been making the little eyelets for the wing rigging (done about 200 so far). I also made a dozen turn buckles for the control cables to the elevators and rudder and fitted the cables to the radiator shutter. I also drill out a heap of 0.4mm brass tube to 0.3mm to accept the control cable loop. The bottom wing is now ready for painting as is the undercarriage so the next photos will see more advancement. It's been a very eye straining week doing all those eyelets and turnbuckles so it will be good to give the peepers a rest. Cheers Des. sorry for only having one photo but the camera played up so I could only save the one pic (repairs under way, time for the hammer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza1 Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 I have started the very tedious job of doing the control rigging, being double cables makes it just that little bit more difficult, and time consuming. The rudder will be done in the same way also with turnbuckles. Not real good photos but I think it will give some idea of what it looks like. Des. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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