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Another 1/32 Lancaster Build


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#1 Okdoky

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 10:41 PM

Hi folks

I know Ted has already started his Lanc and it will be great to see how far he takes his model. I am going to be looking in on his cause I know he will have something clever up his sleave when it comes to detailing it.

I have something in mind for my part work and am going to see how far I can take this.

First things first the frame of the nose

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All parts except the second from the front seem to fit very well (appears tobe slightly out of parallel with the others.

The next stage is to place the lengths of pvc strip that form the stringers between the main frames

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The line of each stringer appears to fit exactly within the notches cut on each frame though looking at Mattie Beas photos they seem to be through the middle of side windows at the bomb aimer's location (will need to cut through one stringer on each side)

The next stage is to cut the tin foil to the rough shape of the panels I needed (the tin foil comes from chinese carry out tins that are big enough to allow large panels to be formed in one go). The part work series does not say when (which week) the tin foil that they would supply would be supplied, or when the stencils that would allow you to mark out on the foil the recommended shapes of panels that they suggest will fit the various sections of the model.

By trial and error I made my own panel sections and drew the shape of the panel on paper so I can make the multiple panels I will need later.

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The stringers help to keep the form of the nose section as the panels of foil are glued and smoothed into shape. I kept the panels slightly longer and wider to allow trimming as needed.

The hardest panel is the junction between the nose turret and the bomb aimer's blister that goes from concave to convex.

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After the glue is set, I cut out the underside window position and the location of the escape hatch

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Three nose cones under construction. Four more to come.

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What do you reckon,,,,, should I spen the 5000 to build all seven Lancs? Now that would be a sight to see built!!!!

Nige

#2 zero

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 08:47 AM

What do you reckon,,,,, should I spen the 5000 to build all seven Lancs? Now that would be a sight to see built!!!!

Nige


WHAT !!!!! :wow:

And I worry about getting another 25 quid phantom in the door and in to the stash!!!!

Good luck feller, your going to need it

Dave

PS, Bloody nice work so far!!!

#3 penfold

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 09:11 AM

I'm guessing you're creating a diorama of a Lancaster production line.....???

#4 perry

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 09:12 AM

A dio with 7 Lancs at dispersal? :analintruder:

#5 Mike

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 11:16 AM

should I spen the 5000 to build all seven Lancs? Now that would be a sight to see built!!!!

:shocked: You might as well pony up the dosh for a whole squadron, if you're going to do multiples ;)

Incidentally, have you tried using a cylindrical object to burnish those difficult curves into shape? :)

#6 Okdoky

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 12:02 PM

:shocked: You might as well pony up the dosh for a whole squadron, if you're going to do multiples ;)

Incidentally, have you tried using a cylindrical object to burnish those difficult curves into shape? :)


I have been playing with my different sized balls all week but can't get the right size for the job :hypnotised:

I must have been doing something right though as my dear wife announced two nights ago that she is pregnant with our third. :gobsmacked: :analintruder:

As for pony up the dosh!!!!!!!!!!! I think it is now fair to say that there will be some further, severe intrusion into my modelling time and funds over the forseeable future :shithappens:

To my dear :bouncy: Karen :kissing2: and :heart:

Nige

Edited by Okdoky, 30 September 2009 - 12:03 PM.


#7 Okdoky

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Posted 03 October 2009 - 11:26 PM

This is how I went about the skinning process. First consume the chinese meal.

Flatten the foil carton between an old metal plumb bob and a 150mm x 150mm x 4mm sheet metal plate

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Using my first attempt as the basis for my paterns I sketched on paper to cut out my own templates for the rest

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I tried an alternative patern to skin the area around the bomb aimer's blister which appears to have worked well this time

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Using the rolling pin wheel I copied the template onto the foil making slightly larger to allow trim down

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First panel I formed was the rear bottom half to allow all others to overlap in the flow of air and downwards
Super glue added to one edge and let to set hard

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More glue added to the frames and the foil spread over the frame and held in place by hand or with rubber bands

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The surplace foil can be folded flat and filed off with a rasp

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The front panel was test fitted with the new Mk2 template

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The cross stringers are marked on the foil to allow an overlap

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More glue added as the panel is gradually smoothed into place and trimmed to fit

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Second half of front section added and smoothed in and trimmed over the centre

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Top panel added and overlaps trimmed to bare minimum

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Will try to take more time over the pin wheel to represent the rivits on this and the other 5 still to be built

Nige

#8 periklis_sale

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 08:37 AM

WOW!
Nice work there mate!

#9 Okdoky

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:56 PM

This is a great book that I found in The Works for a couple of quid

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Some good bits of info in it, but if anyone has any additional info or cross sections through the nose, turret and cockpit areas these would be appreciated.

Nige

#10 zero

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Posted 07 October 2009 - 02:56 PM

This is how I went about the skinning process. First consume the chinese meal.

Nige


Ah you see the cost has just gone up again, you didn't fact in these chinese meal costs did you?

Cracking work so far, real stunning job.

Dave

#11 modelman182

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Posted 07 October 2009 - 03:29 PM

This is a great book that I found in The Works for a couple of quid

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Some good bits of info in it, but if anyone has any additional info or cross sections through the nose, turret and cockpit areas these would be appreciated.

Nige


Nige

I have the old Aeromodeller 144th plans (Drawn by D H Cooksey, circa 1964) with cross sections and other details which I can scan and send you, if you wish.

Kevin S :guitar:

#12 avro683

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Posted 07 October 2009 - 04:44 PM

Don't forget the recessed panel lines. :whistle:

Tony :clif:

#13 Okdoky

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Posted 07 October 2009 - 06:24 PM

Ah you see the cost has just gone up again, you didn't fact in these chinese meal costs did you?

Cracking work so far, real stunning job.

Dave


Hi Dave

Tee hee !! I also didn't factor in the dishwashing machine but I suppose if I lick the dishes clean I will save a good bit on that side of things.

Nige

I have the old Aeromodeller 144th plans (Drawn by D H Cooksey, circa 1964) with cross sections and other details which I can scan and send you, if you wish.

Kevin S :guitar:


Hi Kevin

It would be fantastic if you could let me have a copy as I can scale the drawings up on the work copier. Thanks for that!!!!!

Don't forget the recessed panel lines. :whistle:

Tony :clif:


Hi Tony

Erm!!!!!! What panel lines,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Duh!!!!!!!! I will have to look the pics over more carefully.

I have already noticed that the pin wheel does vary in depth of hole dependent on whether I have a stringer, a frame piece or a void behind. I am not totally happy with my lack of accuracy in placing the rivet lines. It is too easy to role off line because of the curves. I may try to fill and sand the lines I have done and maybe go down the route of placing rivets on the skin instead.

Will need to get a water filter refill to try that technique. That is one hell of a load of rivets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nige

#14 Okdoky

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 06:49 PM

Took the nose cones to Lossiemouth with me on the school break. Had a chance to do a wee bit of work.

Decided to invest in some boddy filler to smooth out the lumps and bumps. Is really good stuff and very easy to put on and sand down smooth.

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Got rid of the over laps on the panels nicely and bulked up the areas between the stringers that were raised slightly giving the surface a much rounder appearance
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Invested in a couple of Boots own version of the water filter cartridges that Ian Sadler told me about which came in at about 2.60 each. Millions of tiny beads of different sizes in them.
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My first attempt to add raised rivet heads. Maybe slightly out of scale but I am going on the premise that a few couts of paint on top will lose a bit of height in them. Will see!
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Also got around to cutting out the bomb aimer's side windows and adding the ventilation ducts (shiny foil add ons) that I presume help to get rid of any positive pressure in the nose cone getting in through seels behing the nose turret when flying.
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What do ya think of the rivits so far? Only a few hundred to add on (times seven)!!!!!!

Nige

#15 Brokenedge

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 12:00 PM

Just a thought - could you do raised rivets by running along the inside surface of the foil with a pounce wheel? It would be hard to retain their shape in the building process I admit, but if you made the marks deep enough they might survive the puttying. Then you need the beads only for restoring lost rivets?

Al

#16 Brian

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 04:28 AM

The two outlets on the Lancaster nose were the cabin heater exhausts. The inlet was next to the wireless operator who usually roasted while the heat diminished as you moved forward. The only positive pressure in a Lanc cockpit was usually due to the unfortunate RAF practice of feeding the aircrew Brussels sprouts. :hypnotised: My late father, a Lancaster F/E, despised those sprouts until the day he died. HTH Cheers.